An assortment of feathery, curled plants Remember when salads consisted of an anaemic wedge of iceberg lettuce with a few radish and tomato slices smothered in thick, orange dressing? No longer.A wonderful assortment of feathery, frilly, curled and serrated plants, often referred to as “greens”-even though some are beautiful shades of red, purple and burgundy-can be grown to create any number of taste, colour and texture combinations. Flavours range from the pungent pepper of cress, mustard and arugula to the mildly tart lemon of purslane.Salad greens generally need well-drained, fertile soil and full sun. Amaranth and purslane thrive in high temperatures, but many greens grow best in cooler spring and fall temperatures; they tend to wilt, and bolt, in high temperatures. Summer heat can also cause greens to taste bitter or very spicy; taste before adding to salads. Arugula, watercress and mâche will benefit from light or dappled shade at the height of summer.Before planting, work generous amounts of compost or composted manure into the soil and keep soil moist but not soggy throughout the growing period. Mulch with hay, straw or leaves. Some greens can be sown more than once per season. Check days to maturity and hardiness in your zone.Arugula, mustard and cabbage are susceptible to flea beetles-tiny, black insects that riddle leaves with small holes and can kill seedlings. Cover seed beds or young transplants with floating row covers. Check periodically for aphids; if present, wash off with a shower of water.Salad greens are best picked fresh, as needed, in the cool of morning. Wash well in a sink full of water, swishing leaves gently to avoid bruising. Spin or pat dry; then place leaves between damp paper towels in a plastic bag and refrigerate immediately.AmaranthThe tender, young leaves and shoots of amaranth (Amaranthus tricolor) taste like spinach with a hint of horseradish, but they become bitter with age, so harvest young.Plant when the soil reaches 20ºC, sowing six millimetres deep, 12 to 15 seeds per 2.5 centimetres. As the leaves begin to touch, thin to 15 centimetres apart.Once plants have a good supply of leaves (around 50 days), pick individual ones and end buds to encourage branching. Arugula, Cress and Mache ArugulaThe nutty flavour of arugula-also called rocket or roquette-adds piquancy to salads. The dark green, lobed leaves of common arugula (Eruca sativa) form a loose, open bunch that can reach 15 to 25 centimetres across before the plant bolts. Wild arugula (E. selvatica syn. Diplotaxis tenuifolia) is about half the size, with smaller, more deeply lobed leaves. It has a stronger flavour and is slower to bolt.Sow in spring as soon as the ground can be worked, planting seeds six millimetres deep, 2.5 centimetres apart in rows 15 to 20 centimetres apart. When leaves of seedlings touch, thin to 10 centimetres.Arugula is ready to pick 28 to 35 days after sowing for common arugula, 49 to 56 days for wild. Cut off individual leaves, cut off the entire plant just below the root attachment or pull up the plant.CressCress adds a peppery taste to salads; it can also be used in sandwiches and as a garnish. Watercress (Nasturtium officinale), the most familiar type, is a perennial that grows wild in streams. Upland cress (Barbarea verna), a hardy biennial, tastes similar but is easier to grow.Watercress can be seeded outside in a rich, neutral soil (pH 7) kept constantly moist. Sow seeds three millimetres deep and thin to 10 centimetres apart when leaves start to touch. Harvest by snipping off the top eight to 10 centimetres of the plant until small, white flowers appear in early summer. Plants mature in 60 days; stems placed in a glass of water in the refrigerator will stay fresh for up to a week.Upland cress grows best in rich, moist soil and tolerates some shade. Sow six millimetres deep in rows 25 centimetres apart, thinning to 15 centimetres apart when leaves start to touch. In most of Canada, mulch plants before it snows to enjoy spring greens. Matures in 50 days, but outer leaves can be harvested as soon as the plant produces a rosette of leaves. As the plant ages, harvest milder-tasting leaves from the centre.MâcheAlso called lamb's lettuce or corn salad (Valerianella locusta), mâche produces a low-growing rosette of tender, mild-flavoured leaves. The leaves lose their succulent sweetness in the heat of the summer but don't become bitter. Mâche is hardy throughout the fall in most of Canada and in the winter and early spring on the coast of British Columbia.Sow seeds as soon as soil can be worked in spring; germination takes two to three weeks. Plant six millimetres deep, 2.5 centimetres apart in rows 30 centimetres apart or broadcast seed in a bed. Gradually thin plants to 10 centimetres apart when leaves start to touch.The succulent, mild leaves of spring mâche can be used alone or to balance the assertive taste of greens such as mustard, arugula and cress. Pick outer leaves or the entire rosette; wash thoroughly and remove any yellow leaves. Mustard, Orach, Kale ad Purslane MustardLeaf mustard (Brassica juncea) is large-leafed and pungent, and includes colourful varieties-most mature in 45 days. Milder and slower to bolt, mizuna mustard (B. rapa var. japonica), widely grown in Japan, has deeply cut, feathery leaves.Plant seeds six millimetres deep, 2.5 centimetres apart, thinning first to five, then to 10 centimetres-20 to 30 if growing for cooked greens-when leaves start to touch. Once plants are 10 to 15 centi-metres tall, pick individual leaves or cut the entire plant two centimetres or more above the crown; it will regrow and can be harvested four or five more times.OrachOrach (Atriplex hortensis) plants eventually reach 1.5 to two metres. When the soil warms up, sow seeds six millimetres deep, 2.5 centimetres apart. Germination takes about 10 days. As plants grow, keep thinning until they're 45 centimetres apart.Orach matures in 42 days. Cut off young leaves and pinch off growing tips and flower stalks to produce branching and delay going to seed.Ornamental Cabbage and KaleOrnamental cabbage (Brassica oleracea var. capitata) and kale (B. oleracea var. acephala) will last into December in much of Canada and survive the winter on the coast of British Columbia. They require cool weather to produce their lovely foliage colours-creamy white, pink or red with a wonderful crinkled texture-and frost improves their flavours. Start ornamental cabbage and kale plants three months before the first fall frost-they germinate at about 20°C. Plants need full sun and rich, well-drained soil with a neutral pH. If sowing directly into the garden, sow seeds six millimetres deep, five centi-metres apart. Thin to 30 to 45 centi-metres apart when leaves start to touch. Every four weeks dig some compost into the soil around the plants. Tender, young leaves can be harvested a few at a time once the plant has good growth, but most are best after a frost.PurslaneOften dismissed as a weed, domesticated varieties of purslane (Portulaca oleracea) produce large, succulent leaves on low, bushy plants. Garden purslane has green leaves; golden purslane has yellow-green leaves.Once soil has warmed up, sow seeds six millimetres deep, 2.5 centimetres apart. Thin plants to 10 centimetres apart when leaves start to touch.Start harvesting shoots when plants are 10 centimetres tall (40 to 50 days after planting). Cut plants back regularly to five centimetres to encourage new growth. Coveted cultivars, and where to get them COVETED CULTIVARSAMARANTH‘Joseph's Coat' - variegated red, green and gold leavesMÂCHE‘Vit' - mildew-resistant; ‘Coquille de Louviers' - drought-tolerant; ‘Verte d'Etampes' - drought-tolerantMUSTARD‘Osaka Purple'; ‘Giant Red'; ‘Southern Giant Curled' - frilly, bright green leaves; ‘Kyoto Mizuna'ORNAMENTAL CABBAGE AND KALE‘Tokyo Mixed' and ‘Osaka Mixed' - pink, red or white leaves in the centre, green on the outside‘White Peacock' - long, serrated leaves, creamy white in the centre‘Red Peacock' - long, serrated leaves, rose-pink in the centre‘Nagoya Mixed' - kale white, rose or red inner leaves, green outer leavesSOURCESThe Cook's Garden, Box 5010, Hodges, South Carolina 29653-5010; 800/457-9703; ‘Mizuna', ‘Vit', ‘Coquille', ‘D'Etampes', ‘Red Giant', ‘Southern Giant Curled', red orach, purslane.Early's Farm & Garden Centre, arugula, ‘Red Leaf'.Halifax Seed, arugula, watercress.Johnny's Selected Seeds, ‘Joseph's Coat' syn. ‘Tricolor', ‘Nagoya', ‘Red Peacock', ‘White Peacock', arugula, purslane.Richters Herbs, ‘Red Giant', ‘Joseph's Coat', ‘Mizuna', ‘Osaka Purple', ‘Southern Giant Curled', arugula.Veseys Seeds Ltd., arugula, corn salad/mâche, Upland cress, ‘Red Giant'.West Coast Seeds, ‘Upland Broadleaf', watercress, purslane. Delicious recipes Arugula and Mâche Salad with Chèvre Toasts (serves 6)Arugula has a pleasant bitterness and mâche has a nutty tang. In this lovely first course, each is complemented by smooth goat's cheese, dried figs and toasted hazelnuts. Use fresh hazelnuts, if possible, or shelled whole ones.For dressing3 tbsp. (45 mL) balsamic vinegar1/2 cup (125 mL) extra virgin olive oil1 tsp. (5 mL) saltFreshly ground pepper, to taste1/2 tsp. (2 mL) sugarFor salad4 cups (1 L) each arugula and mâche6 oz. (170 g) mild chèvre (goat's cheese)2 tbsp. (25 mL) extra virgin olive oil1 skinny baguette, sliced diagonally into 18 pieces, 1/4 inch (6 mm) thick6-8 dried figs, sliced1/2 cup (125 mL) lightly toasted hazelnuts, coarsely choppedIn a large bowl, whisk together vinegar and 1/2 cup of oil. Whisk in salt, pepper and sugar; adjust seasoning to taste. Set to one side.Wash, trim and thoroughly dry greens. Toss together in another large bowl until well combined. In a small bowl, using the back of a fork, soften cheese with 1 tablespoon of olive oil until it's of spreading consistency.Preheat oven to 425°F (220°C). Brush both sides of baguette slices with remaining olive oil. Place on a baking sheet and toast for 5 minutes. Turn over and bake for another 5 minutes or until just golden. Remove from oven and let cool slightly.Slowly drizzle dressing over greens (you may not need all of it) and toss lightly. Arrange greens on salad plates. Evenly scatter nuts and figs on top.Spread softened cheese on warm toasts. Garnish each salad with three chèvre toasts. Serve immediately.Greens and Cheese Strudel (serves 8)You can use various assorted vegetable fillings (amaranth, chard, spinach) for this lovely dish but include some of the heartier ones such as cabbage or kale. Lightly pre-steam the greens to make them easier to handle. This is also a good way to use up leftover cooked vegetables. A few thinly sliced mushrooms make a nice addition. You can substitute different cheeses but make sure they are full-flavoured.4 cups (1 L) roughly chopped, lightly cooked assorted greens1/4 cup (60 mL) fresh dill, chopped1/4 cup (60 mL) fresh parsley, chopped1/4 cup (60 mL) toasted pine nuts1 cup (250 mL) shredded Gruyère cheese1/2 cup (125 mL) plain yogurt1 egg, lightly beaten1/2 cup (125 mL) fine breadcrumbsSalt and freshly ground pepper, to taste10 sheets phyllo pastry, thawed1/3 cup (75 mL) melted butterPreheat oven to 400°F (200°C). Line a baking tray with parchment paper (or use vegetable cooking spray). In a large mixing bowl, combine greens, dill, parsley, pine nuts, cheese, yogurt and egg; mix together well. Add some of the breadcrumbs if mixture seems too wet. Season with salt and pepper.Unroll the thawed phyllo pastry and place one sheet on a clean, damp tea towel. (Cover remaining phyllo sheets with another damp tea towel.) Brush with melted butter and add a sprinkling of remaining breadcrumbs. Repeat procedure with remaining phyllo sheets; reserve 1 tablespoon of butter.Evenly distribute one tenth of the greens filling over each phyllo sheet along the edge closest to you. Use the tea towel to roll the dough into a strudel shape (like a long tube). Neatly fold each end and tuck beneath the roll. Transfer to prepared baking tray, seam side down. Brush with remaining melted butter and bake for 10 minutes. Reduce heat to 325°F (165°C) and continue baking until lightly browned, another 20 minutes. Let sit for 5 minutes before slicing and serving.Grilled Portobello on Greens (serves 4)If you don't want to fire up the grill for this recipe, use a heavy pan to sear the portobellos. Reserve the portobello stems to use in stir-fries or omelettes.For vinaigrette2 tbsp. (30 mL) balsamic vinegar1 tbsp. (15 mL) fresh oregano, chopped1 clove garlic, minced1/2 tsp. (2 mL) sugar1/3 cup (75 mL) extra virgin olive oilSalt and freshly ground pepper, to tasteFor mushrooms and greens2 lb. (1 kg) portobello mushrooms, stems removed (about 6)3 tbsp. (45 mL) extra virgin olive oil1/2 tsp. (2 mL) coarse salt6 cups (1.5 L) mixed salad greens3 oz. (85 g) Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, shavedIn a small bowl, combine vinegar, oregano, garlic and sugar. Whisk together until well blended. Add 1/3 cup oil in a steady stream, whisking until well combined. Season with salt and pepper. Set aside.In a bowl, toss portobello caps with 3 tablespoons of oil and salt. Place on hot grill; close lid and grill for 15 minutes, turning frequently, or until edges are a little crispy and mushrooms are tender. (If cooking in a pan, sauté over medium-high heat for 10 to 12 minutes, adding a little more oil if necessary.)Line 4 plates with greens. Slice mushrooms fairly thickly; arrange on greens. Drizzle with vinaigrette; top with cheese. Serve immediately.