Design & Decor
Designing with warm colours
Designing with warm colours of
The warm palette Municipal park workers must feel such shameless joy as they plant up blazing beds of floral displays. Those stands of scarlet cannas and carpets of orange marigolds speak to me in a primal way, and I’m resolved to heat up my own colour scheme. There’s no doubt warm colours appeal to the senses—who can resist touching red roses and orange pumpkins? But along with the siren call of heat-generating hues, there’s also a small voice of caution. Will I be tempting colour-overload with the warm palette of red, orange and yellow? Straight-talking American garden writer Henry Mitchell (The Essential Earthman: Henry Mitchell on Gardening, 1981) offers this useful advice: “No colour is ‘safe’ and no colour is ‘dangerous.’ More gardens are rendered dull by timidity than are rendered vulgar by excessive daring. Be bold. Be simple. Use large enough patches of colour to make the point.” Now, that’s good direction. If you have a passion for burnt orange calendulas and fiery red zinnias, plant enough of them so you can properly swoon with pleasure; using too few plants weakens the statement and makes the garden seem disorganized with dabs of vivid colour here and there, but no cohesive message. British garden designer Gertrude Jekyll had no fear of warm colours at her residence, Munstead Wood, planting a hot border of oranges and golds without a trace of self-conscious doubt. Her garden pulsated with African and French marigolds, orange gladioli, lanceleaf tickseed (Coreopsis lanceolata), golden glow (Rudbeckia laciniata ‘Hortensia’), orange sneezeweed, torch lilies, orange ‘Fire King’ lilies and double sunflowers. Miss Jekyll included scarlet sage (Salvia splendens) and red Maltese cross (Lychnis chalcedonica) as contrasting accent plants, both of which appeared in small drifts like flannel petticoats peeking out from a hot orange skirt.With Miss Jekyll’s orange border in mind, I filled a large stone container with ‘Nonstop Orange’ tuberous begonias and apricot ‘Wizard Sunset’ coleus, cooled just a bit with lavender-blue ‘Blue Ice’ fan flower (Scaevola aemula). By late summer, the plants had massed and grown into a blaze of glory on the doorstep, causing the letter carrier to blink. Inspiration for pairing warm colours for mutual emphasis can be gleaned from the natural colorations of familiar plants such as ‘Kobold’ blanket flower and ‘Royal Standard’ torch lily, both with petal combinations of orange-red and yellow, and ‘Primadonna Deep Rose’ purple coneflower, with double-petalled, deep pink rays surrounding a glowing copper orange centre.Colour-timid gardeners like me need a strategy for harnessing intensely warm hues and putting them to best use. Finding a similar characteristic among several plants and grouping them together is one way to make harmonious combinations. The brick-red ‘Niobe’ clematis is deeply saturated with black tones, and makes a pleasant partner near ‘Black Knight’ canna, which has similar deep red flowers over huge, black-green leaves. The frost-tender chocolate cosmos has this same red-black suffusion in its chocolate-scented petals and could nestle happily around the base of the canna. Together, these three plants emphasize their shared red-black characteristic. If Miss Jekyll were on the scene, she’d probably add the tangerine-and-yellow ‘Mandarin’ honeysuckle vine, along with a stout, 1.5-metre clump of bright yellow Autumn Sun coneflower, with prominent brown-black cones. Second strategy My second strategy is to select two basic warm colours, such as red and gold, and repeat them in flowers of different form and size, and sequential blooming periods. Mitchell described oriental poppies, such as the brilliant red ‘Allegro’, as “undreamed of outside of a flag factory,” and yes, it’s an electrifying orange-red that blooms for the month of June. Combine it with the sparkling golden tickseed ‘Early Sunrise’, and the pair is the picture of warmth for six weeks. Following nearby could be two plants of identical red and gold hues, to bloom from July through September: the blended yellow gold of ‘Siloam Dave McKeithen’ Trophytaker daylily and ‘Jacob Cline’ bee balm, with its whorls of 10-centimetre-long, scarlet red, tubular flowers so attractive to hummingbirds. Those four plants in two basic warm colours can fill a large garden corner for most of the growing season. Stretch the sequence of bloom further into autumn by adding clumps of crimson-mahogany ‘Bruno’ sneezeweed and ‘Prairie Sunset’ false sunflower, with golden yellow, red-centred flowers that eventually turn all golden. If you follow this suggested planting, you’ll definitely need to rest your eyes over winter. Plants of different hues but with similar form and intensity complement each other and make effective partners. Drought-tolerant ‘Mainacht’ perennial salvia (Salvia nemorosa ‘Mainacht’ a.k.a. ‘May Night’) and its compact form, Marcus (S. n. ‘Haeumanarc’), are loaded with violet-purple flower spikes that are attractive to butterflies, and either can stand by its sister plant, ‘Rose Queen’, with fragrant wands of warm rose pink florets from summer through early fall. All three salvias are good matches in intensity for the yarrow ‘Summerwine’, which has flat-headed blooms of tiny, vivid, crimson-red flowers, each with a light purple-pink eye. A deeply coloured, violet-pink, mildew-resistant phlox such as ‘Robert Poore’ could be added to the backdrop to provide height.And then there is apricot. I’m besotted with the colour. It’s the warmest tone in the orange range, and a graceful companion to warm pink and rosy coral. For example, in mid- to late spring, the soft orange flowers of ‘Orangekönigin’ barrenwort—a good plant for moist, shady corners—are enhanced by the lovely rose-pink plumes of ‘Federsee’ astilbe, which prefers the same growing conditions. That’s a good way to introduce apricot into the season. For continued warmth, I plan to employ the deeply saturated oranges of crocosmia—peachy yellow ‘Venus’, apricot orange ‘Solfatare’ (with bronze-copper foliage) and apricot yellow ‘Star of the East’—and combine them with two striking summer phlox: ‘Orange Perfection’ and ‘Becky Towe’, rose-pink with a small magenta eye and variegated yellow-and-green foliage. Mid- to late summer brings the irresistibly named ‘When My Sweetheart Returns’ dwarf daylily, a creamy apricot repeat bloomer with a rich rose-pink eye, partnered with two lovely, old-fashioned mulleins—‘Jackie’, soft apricot yellow with contrasting butterscotch eye, and ‘Helen Johnson’, copper orange flushed with cream, with contrasting violet stamens. And to set this all off, I’ll add a few rose-purple ‘Atropurpureum’ bonesets, along with the distinctive ‘September Charm’ Japanese anemone, which, come late August, has rose-pink flowers with darker pink on the reverse of each petal.Considering the massive display of orange tuberous begonias and scarlet coleus on my doorstep this past summer, I seem to be conquering my colour-timid ways. As for next season, I feel a wave of fuchsia and chartreuse coming on. Warm palette plant list Warm palette plant list
- Credit
- Judith Adam
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A harvest of hues A harvest of hues
A harvest of hues ofA harvest of hues It wasn’t so long ago that gardeners began putting their gardens to bed for the winter on Labour Day: pulling out all annuals, tying up shrubs and cutting perennials to the ground. After all, the growing season was over—wasn’t it? But today’s garden is increasingly seen as a spot that can be beautiful year-round, and rather than closing down their beds in autumn, gardeners now want colour until the snow flies, or even beyond. And it’s so easy to achieve. Hundreds of plants offer fall colours to carry your landscape through to early winter. Autumn interest comes from flowers of course—numerous plants bloom from mid-September through November—but also from bright foliage and attractive fruit and berries. So infuse your patch with all three. Such plants are available in so many categories (bulbs, perennials, trees, shrubs, grasses) and grow under such a wide range of conditions (sun or shade, rich or poor soil, dry or moist conditions) that there is something for every environment. A good rule of thumb to ensure late-season colour is that 20 per cent of your plants should be in bloom or in fruit, or sport colourful leaves at the beginning of fall. Choose your flowers with care, however; in short-season climates, some, such as nippon daisy (Nipponanthemum nipponicum), bugbane (Actaea simplex) and Japanese anemone (Anemone hupehensis), may simply bloom too late. Most flowers, though, adapt to daylength. For example, the same fall mums and asters may start to bloom in late August in Yellowknife, but not until October in Ontario’s Niagara region. Should the cold come early (and some years it does), you’ll discover that most of the plants described here can shrug off light frosts. Those with attractive berries are the toughest of the lot, and many still look great and have fruit well into winter.And don’t worry about cleaning up your fall-interest plants before winter. Most experts agree that the less tidying up you do, the healthier your plants will be in the spring because dying foliage helps protect them from severe cold. Just let them do their thing; you can do any necessary cleanup at the start of the next growing season.Crank up the colourFall colour is best when days are warm and sunny and nights are brisk but above freezing. Here are some things you can do to get the most bang from your blooms:Plant in a sunny spot Stop fertilizing by mid-AugustWater plants well in the summer but sparingly in the fallThe more, the berrierSome plants with attractive fall berries need cross-pollination to produce fruit. This is especially true of hollies and bittersweet (Celastrus spp.), as they are dioecious (male and female flowers appear on separate plants). It’s now often possible to buy “combination pots” that offer a male and female plant growing together. If not available, plant one male for every five to eight females. Larry's favourites Larry's favourites- Credit
- Larry Hodgson
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Designing with warm colours Designing with warm colours
Designing with warm colours ofThe warm palette Municipal park workers must feel such shameless joy as they plant up blazing beds of floral displays. Those stands of scarlet cannas and carpets of orange marigolds speak to me in a primal way, and I’m resolved to heat up my own colour scheme. There’s no doubt warm colours appeal to the senses—who can resist touching red roses and orange pumpkins? But along with the siren call of heat-generating hues, there’s also a small voice of caution. Will I be tempting colour-overload with the warm palette of red, orange and yellow? Straight-talking American garden writer Henry Mitchell (The Essential Earthman: Henry Mitchell on Gardening, 1981) offers this useful advice: “No colour is ‘safe’ and no colour is ‘dangerous.’ More gardens are rendered dull by timidity than are rendered vulgar by excessive daring. Be bold. Be simple. Use large enough patches of colour to make the point.” Now, that’s good direction. If you have a passion for burnt orange calendulas and fiery red zinnias, plant enough of them so you can properly swoon with pleasure; using too few plants weakens the statement and makes the garden seem disorganized with dabs of vivid colour here and there, but no cohesive message. British garden designer Gertrude Jekyll had no fear of warm colours at her residence, Munstead Wood, planting a hot border of oranges and golds without a trace of self-conscious doubt. Her garden pulsated with African and French marigolds, orange gladioli, lanceleaf tickseed (Coreopsis lanceolata), golden glow (Rudbeckia laciniata ‘Hortensia’), orange sneezeweed, torch lilies, orange ‘Fire King’ lilies and double sunflowers. Miss Jekyll included scarlet sage (Salvia splendens) and red Maltese cross (Lychnis chalcedonica) as contrasting accent plants, both of which appeared in small drifts like flannel petticoats peeking out from a hot orange skirt.With Miss Jekyll’s orange border in mind, I filled a large stone container with ‘Nonstop Orange’ tuberous begonias and apricot ‘Wizard Sunset’ coleus, cooled just a bit with lavender-blue ‘Blue Ice’ fan flower (Scaevola aemula). By late summer, the plants had massed and grown into a blaze of glory on the doorstep, causing the letter carrier to blink. Inspiration for pairing warm colours for mutual emphasis can be gleaned from the natural colorations of familiar plants such as ‘Kobold’ blanket flower and ‘Royal Standard’ torch lily, both with petal combinations of orange-red and yellow, and ‘Primadonna Deep Rose’ purple coneflower, with double-petalled, deep pink rays surrounding a glowing copper orange centre.Colour-timid gardeners like me need a strategy for harnessing intensely warm hues and putting them to best use. Finding a similar characteristic among several plants and grouping them together is one way to make harmonious combinations. The brick-red ‘Niobe’ clematis is deeply saturated with black tones, and makes a pleasant partner near ‘Black Knight’ canna, which has similar deep red flowers over huge, black-green leaves. The frost-tender chocolate cosmos has this same red-black suffusion in its chocolate-scented petals and could nestle happily around the base of the canna. Together, these three plants emphasize their shared red-black characteristic. If Miss Jekyll were on the scene, she’d probably add the tangerine-and-yellow ‘Mandarin’ honeysuckle vine, along with a stout, 1.5-metre clump of bright yellow Autumn Sun coneflower, with prominent brown-black cones. Second strategy My second strategy is to select two basic warm colours, such as red and gold, and repeat them in flowers of different form and size, and sequential blooming periods. Mitchell described oriental poppies, such as the brilliant red ‘Allegro’, as “undreamed of outside of a flag factory,” and yes, it’s an electrifying orange-red that blooms for the month of June. Combine it with the sparkling golden tickseed ‘Early Sunrise’, and the pair is the picture of warmth for six weeks. Following nearby could be two plants of identical red and gold hues, to bloom from July through September: the blended yellow gold of ‘Siloam Dave McKeithen’ Trophytaker daylily and ‘Jacob Cline’ bee balm, with its whorls of 10-centimetre-long, scarlet red, tubular flowers so attractive to hummingbirds. Those four plants in two basic warm colours can fill a large garden corner for most of the growing season. Stretch the sequence of bloom further into autumn by adding clumps of crimson-mahogany ‘Bruno’ sneezeweed and ‘Prairie Sunset’ false sunflower, with golden yellow, red-centred flowers that eventually turn all golden. If you follow this suggested planting, you’ll definitely need to rest your eyes over winter. Plants of different hues but with similar form and intensity complement each other and make effective partners. Drought-tolerant ‘Mainacht’ perennial salvia (Salvia nemorosa ‘Mainacht’ a.k.a. ‘May Night’) and its compact form, Marcus (S. n. ‘Haeumanarc’), are loaded with violet-purple flower spikes that are attractive to butterflies, and either can stand by its sister plant, ‘Rose Queen’, with fragrant wands of warm rose pink florets from summer through early fall. All three salvias are good matches in intensity for the yarrow ‘Summerwine’, which has flat-headed blooms of tiny, vivid, crimson-red flowers, each with a light purple-pink eye. A deeply coloured, violet-pink, mildew-resistant phlox such as ‘Robert Poore’ could be added to the backdrop to provide height.And then there is apricot. I’m besotted with the colour. It’s the warmest tone in the orange range, and a graceful companion to warm pink and rosy coral. For example, in mid- to late spring, the soft orange flowers of ‘Orangekönigin’ barrenwort—a good plant for moist, shady corners—are enhanced by the lovely rose-pink plumes of ‘Federsee’ astilbe, which prefers the same growing conditions. That’s a good way to introduce apricot into the season. For continued warmth, I plan to employ the deeply saturated oranges of crocosmia—peachy yellow ‘Venus’, apricot orange ‘Solfatare’ (with bronze-copper foliage) and apricot yellow ‘Star of the East’—and combine them with two striking summer phlox: ‘Orange Perfection’ and ‘Becky Towe’, rose-pink with a small magenta eye and variegated yellow-and-green foliage. Mid- to late summer brings the irresistibly named ‘When My Sweetheart Returns’ dwarf daylily, a creamy apricot repeat bloomer with a rich rose-pink eye, partnered with two lovely, old-fashioned mulleins—‘Jackie’, soft apricot yellow with contrasting butterscotch eye, and ‘Helen Johnson’, copper orange flushed with cream, with contrasting violet stamens. And to set this all off, I’ll add a few rose-purple ‘Atropurpureum’ bonesets, along with the distinctive ‘September Charm’ Japanese anemone, which, come late August, has rose-pink flowers with darker pink on the reverse of each petal.Considering the massive display of orange tuberous begonias and scarlet coleus on my doorstep this past summer, I seem to be conquering my colour-timid ways. As for next season, I feel a wave of fuchsia and chartreuse coming on. Warm palette plant list Warm palette plant list- Credit
- Judith Adam
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5-minute flowers: Pretty easy 5-minute flowers: Pretty easy
5-minute flowers: Pretty easy ofPretty easy I use my collection of old pottery jugs to whip up casual flower arrangements for the kitchen; the key is balancing colours and textures. For this one, I plunked in a store-bought bunch of smoky blue sea holly (lucky you if you can grow it—globe thistle would also work), then added a few lemon-lime hosta leaves, sprigs of miniature lady’s mantle and variegated euonymus from my garden. Finally, I tucked in burgundy-coloured ‘Diabolo’ ninebark twigs. Then it was back to the crossword.- Credit
- Aldona Satterthwaite
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A master class in using colour A master class in using colour
A master class in using colour ofColour design lesson When we think of master colourists in the garden, Canadians Nori and Sandra Pope come to mind. The couple became famous for their extraordinary use of colour during their 20 years of stewardship at Hadspen Garden in Somerset, England. Their designs favour monochromatic, tone-on-tone planting schemes that move from light to dark.The Popes refer to the language of music to help explain their colour theories. Their gardens have rhythm, says Nori, because a monochromatic scheme brings into focus the structure and movement of the plants, while repeated patterns draw the eye along the landscape. In a piece of music, he explains, too many different sounds at once are unpleasant. Similarly, using a riot of colour in a garden is like a “visual car crash.” The Popes’ gardens are peaceful and comfortable—so much so that it’s easy to take for granted the artistry involved in how they’re created. Although the couple’s designs merge seamlessly, they each have their own style. “Sandra,” says Nori, “is sublimely classical, while I’m more boogie-woogie.” In addition to being designers, the pair are also plant breeders, which gives them an enormous advantage. When they’re unable to find the perfect plant for a combination, Sandra tells Nori, “Just make one.” And he does. This has resulted in such gorgeous introductions as ‘Hadspen Blood’ masterwort (Astrantia major ‘Hadspen Blood’) and ‘Goldheart’ bleeding heart (Dicentra spectabilis ‘Goldheart’). Other plants they’ve developed, though, have just been for their own use—to fill a hole in the garden or to complete a grouping. Nori Pope's pro pointers Nori Pope's pro pointers• When beginning to work with colour, start with just two—yellow and orange, for example—and make small groupings, repeating both hues and plant shapes.• When pairing flowering and foliage plants, don’t assume every green leaf will work effectively with every flower colour. For example, a purple bloom will stand out against chartreuse foliage, but will disappear against a darker, duller leaf.• Pay attention to foliage, which always dominates the border. Look for patterns and colours in the leaves and echo them in nearby plants. For example, match the purple-red splotch in the centre of ‘Sunspot’ heucherella with a flower of the same colour. • Study how colour works in the natural landscape and mimic these effects in your garden. White separates colours from one another, emphasizing other plants. Blue in the background makes a space look larger, while yellow lights up dark corners; keep in mind that red and purple are harder to see from a distance.• Use colour to evoke emotion. For example, light shades create a feeling of openness; dark ones, on the other hand, are more theatrical.• Don’t be afraid to combine vegetables with ornamentals to create strong contrasts. Designer facts Designer factsThe Popes met while Nori, who has degrees in botany and fine arts, taught orcharding at British Columbia’s North Island College. Sandra was working on an all-red garden on her Denman Island homestead at that time and turned to Nori, who also had a nursery, for his red plants.In the 1980s, the Popes opened a nursery in B.C. that specialized in old-fashioned roses. This led to the pair corresponding with the late British gardening gurus Graham Stuart Thomas and Christopher Lloyd. Nori and Sandra decided to take a European sabbatical in 1986—and their fate was sealed. Through Thomas and Lloyd, the couple came upon Hadspen, a garden that had become neglected and overgrown. They fell in love with its possibilities, and redesigned and nurtured it for 20 years. Now back home on Pender Island, B.C., the Popes are developing a garden and breeding plants, all the while gazing down at the ocean, where their sailboat stands ready to lure them away. More tips• Use contrasting foliage to create drama• Using various tones of green is a great way to make a shade garden pop.• To draw the eye along a path, use one colour in repeated patterns.• Combine fragrant white plants, such as ‘Margaret Merrill’ rose, double-flowered ‘Alba Plena’ dame’s rocket (Hesperis matronalis ‘Alba Plena’) and white valerian (Centranthus ruber ‘Albus’), for a romantic evening garden.- Credit
- Carol Gardner
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5-minute flowers: Pop art 5-minute flowers: Pop art
5-minute flowers: Pop art of5-minute flowers Ka-pow! This simple arrangement owes its eye-popping appeal to strong, contrasting colours. Bright orange gerberas, angled in the vase, take off-centre stage. For balance, small lime green chrysanthemums are nestled underneath and to one side-you could substitute lady's mantle. (Be sure to strip leaves from stems below the water line.) A rectangular, chartreuse-coloured glass vase completes the look. -Designed by Michael Pellegrino, Teatro Verde, Toronto- Credit
- Canadian Gardening
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Backyard Camouflage Backyard Camouflage
Backyard Camouflage ofGet the Look A wide border of fast-growing trees, shrubs and groundcover will help mask the neighbouring structure, while shade-tolerant woody plants will partly conceal the high walls and establish a sense of privacy. (The key to rapid, dense growth in woody plants is consistent watering during the growing season.) The greenery of spreading trees will cover and soften the expanse of plain brick wall. Pyramidal evergreens can be planted between the windows of the wood-slat section, allowing neighbours an unobstructed view while hiding the stark cement foundation below.This new border of trees and shrubs will establish a relaxed, forest-like feel and will be complemented by two levels of cedar decking. The existing slope is uncomfortable for walking, so jumbo-sized slabs of natural flagstone can be used as steps to the lower level. A small Japanese tea house will offer privacy and protection from the elements, as well as a much-needed focal point. Legend: s: Full Sun f: Part Shade d: Full ShadeThe Plants:Dwarf lilac(Syringa meyeri ‘Palibin') 21.2 m, 1 1.5 m, s f, Zone 4Anderson spreading yew (Taxus x media ‘Andersonii') 21 2 m, s d, Zone 5'Elegantissim' red twig dogwood (Cornus alba ‘Elegantissima') 21.5 m, 1 1.2 m, s f, Zone 3Weeping Nootka false cypress(Chamaecyparis nootkatensis 'Pendula') 210 m, 1 6 m, s f, Zone 5Blue beech (Carpinus caroliniana) 27 m, 1 6 m, s d, Zone 4'Blue Danube' Savin juniper (Juniperus sabina 'Blaue Donau' a.k.a. 'Blue Danube') 21 1.2 m, s f, Zone 5Oak-leafed hydrangea(Hydrangea quercifolia) 21.2 m, 1 1 m, s d, Zone 6European beech (Fagus sylvatica) 215m, 1 12 m, s f, Zone 5Periwinkle(Vinca minor) 215 cm, 1 60 cm, s d, Zone 4Van Houtte's spirea (Spiraea x vanhouttei) 22 m, 1 3 m, s f, Zone 4'Filifera Aurea' Japanese false cypress (Chamaecyparis pisifera 'Filifera Aurea') 23 m, 1 2 m, s f, Zone 5Shadblow serviceberry (Amelanchier canadensis) 28 m, 1 2 to 6 m, s f, Zone 4Sweet woodruff (Galium odoratum) 21 20 cm, f d, Zone 4Pagoda dogwood(Cornus alternifolia) 25 m, 1 8 m, s d, Zone 4Hick's yew (Taxus x media 'Hicksii') 23 m, 1 1 m, s d, Zone 5- Credit
- Judith Adam
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From the recycle bin to the garden From the recycle bin to the garden
From the recycle bin to the garden ofGreen gardening Like many gardeners, we compost, use eco-friendly pest control and fill our beds with drought-resistant flowers. But when we landscaped three years ago, we went a step further and incorporated recycling into our design. An unsightly concrete walkway, unusable doors and outdated garden equipment found new life in our garden. This wallet- and eco-friendly approach created innovative features that added character, not kitsch, to our property. Some of the recycled features include:Faux stone walls:The former concrete walkway stretched from the front door to the street like a landing strip. When we installed a meandering brick path, we tore up the concrete and used it to create "stone" retaining walls for raised beds. To do this, we broke the concrete into pieces, which we turned upside down before stacking in layers. Although the walls took a year to weather from stark white to a credible stone grey, they look convincing, especially with periwinkle or ivy growing over top. As an unexpected bonus, our lavender thrives on the lime that leaches naturally from the concrete.Mock windows:Cutting warped Victorian-style wooden screen doors down into windows solved more than one problem. No only did we avoid sending wood to landfill, once mounted on the side of the house, the salvaged doors generated focus for wall features no one noticed. The former doors now frame previously ignored ornamental lion heads.Door to the secret garden:With the glass removed from its window, another wooden door is transformed into a trellis for eye-catching clematis. Sandwiched between two lattice fences, the door effectively blocks the view of the neighbour's garage while adding a touch of whimsy. The door's large wrought iron latch tempts visitors to open the door and step into an unseen garden beyond.Natural trellis:Planting a new perennial bed unearthed the stump and roots of a walnut tree that had been cut down years before. Placed on its side, the unusual root formation created a natural, low trellis. We trained a variegated euonymus over the roots to provide height and year-round colour in the perennial bed.Granite conversation piece:Our 140-year-old house came with an unadvertised bonus—a solid granite lawn roller, too rusted and heavy to use. To tie in with the faux stone walls, we removed the roller's crumbling iron handles and placed the granite head in the garden a few feet behind the wall. Although partially hidden by the surrounding perennials, its smooth, glittery surface stands out just enough to draw interest from guests who want to know the story behind the stone.- Credit
- Charmian Christie
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10 tips to attract wildlife in the garden 10 tips to attract wildlife in the garden
10 tips to attract wildlife in the garden of10 tips to attract wildlife in the garden It's nearly the end of winter—what are your plans for your garden in the spring? Many people love to pore over seed catalogs and plan out new flower beds, and that can while away many a snowy day indoors. This spring, why not figure your wild neighbours into your outdoor plans and create a wildlife garden? Here's ten tips to make your garden more wildlife friendly this season.1. Plant lots of colourful, scented flowers. When you include lots of these in your flowerbeds, you might just see butterflies and hummingbirds coming to take advantage of the nectar. 2. Include areas of shrubbery and low bushes to make homes for birds and small animals. Thicker varieties will provide berries that attract songbirds like cardinals and finches.3. Consider putting in a pond or water feature to attract animals and birds. Many people remember to put out a bird feeder or food for the squirrels, but water is just as important of a habitat feature as food. If you have a bird bath, make sure to keep the water moving in some way to prevent mosquitoes breeding.4. If you put in a pond, make sure to include lots of water plants. This attracts certain insects that frogs, turtles and any fish you put in will eat. Plus, water plants like locus flowers, water hyacinths and lilies will also oxygenate the pond.5. Consider including a bird house or butterfly house in your garden. It can be a fun winter project for the kids to paint one of these houses. You just might be surprised come spring when a bird or butterfly moves in.6. Make sure to plant flowers that will sustain the birds and animals throughout all seasons.7. As well as helping the environment, compost heaps also feed animals like hedgehogs, squirrels, and raccoons. Just keep them far away from your house.8. Include a rock pile by a pond or water feature for frogs and turtles to hide in.9. Remember, when you're planting for butterflies, you'll want to make sure to plant flowers that will sustain the caterpillars, as well.10. Lastly, don't ever spray pesticides or other herbicides in your garden. Organic gardening will ensure that your wildlife is healthy—and your flowers will be prettier, too.- Credit
- Elizabeth Hawksworth
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Using colour in the landscape Using colour in the landscape
Using colour in the landscape ofUsing colour What goes into the making of an artist? Whatever it is, Montreal landscape architect Claude Cormier has it in abundance. Though he established his firm, Claude Cormier Architectes Paysagistes Inc., barely 10 years ago, he has garnered clients and design awards from all over the world. Canadians may most strongly identify him with the innovative Blue Stick Garden, which he designed in 2000 for the first Reford International Design Festival, but his other works enrich many of Montreal's stylish venues (including Place Youville, Place des Arts and the promenade in the city's Old Port). Cormier's eclectic designs are identifiable by his use of two strong elements: colour and artifice. Though the latter must be used carefully, he says, colour is a way of creating a stronger experience. He tries “to embrace the quality” of traditional design while developing ideas for contemporary landscapes. Growing up, Cormier's interests were divided between art and science. This divergence eventually resulted in a degree in agronomy from Ontario's University of Guelph, a bachelor of landscape architecture degree from the University of Toronto and a master's degree in design studies from Harvard. His education, combined with his innate talent, led him to a career designing spaces brimming with history, symbolism, humour and excitement. Listening to Cormier talk about garden design is much like hearing a painter talk about a canvas. But perhaps all art comes from the same source—the ability to envision the possibilities of an empty space. Colour Lessons Colour lessons Blue Tree For California's Cornerstone Festival of Gardens, Claude Cormier's team of six designers took a vineyard's ailing Monterrey pine, scheduled for removal, and adorned it with thousands of custom-made blue balls as a way of blending the tree with the sky. When the owner's young son lay under the pine and said “but the sky isn't really blue!” the designer realized the tree acted as a barometer that gauged subtle light fluctuations as the sky constantly changed colour. Lesson 1:Strong colour in your garden will visually amplify its natural elements.Lipstick Forest When designing an indoor garden for Montreal's convention centre, Cormier and his team wanted to reflect the city's joie de vivre, as well as add some colour to its long winters. They designed concrete tree trunks, then sprayed them the same shade of hot pink used in Montreal's tourism logo.Lesson 2:Gardens can shine in winter. Plant shrubs and trees with colourful bark, such as ‘Sibirica' redtwig dogwood; add something sculptural like a corkscrew hazel (Corylus avellana ‘Contorta'); then throw in a dramatic accessory—a large, black urn filled with berried branches, for example. La Pergola For the first biennial contemporary arts festival in Le Havre, France, Cormier used hundreds of thousands of coloured, translucent Christmas balls to create a suspended garden over the elegant pergola of the Hotel de Ville. He says the garden referred to the beginning of the Impressionist movement that took place in Normandy around Le Havre. Lesson 3:Hanging gardens can add dimension and interest to a space. Drape a structure with a selection of colourful vines—or a string of outdoor fairy lights—and watch your garden come alive.For the 2003 L'été des Jardins in Lyons, France, Cormier wrapped tree trunks with 16,000 silk flowers, symbolizing, he says, “the artificiality of the constructed landscape.” He used the fabric as a reference to the historical importance of the silk industry to Lyons. Lesson 4:Create drama in your own garden by massing colourful plants that will bloom in unison.- Credit
- Carol Gardner
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Create a Private Garden Room Create a Private Garden Room
Create a Private Garden Room ofThe Solution The Solution:Small trees, architectural features and seasonal plant displays can be used to establish your own private garden room. An arbour at the raised concrete step will create an inviting entrance, with boxwood hedging on either side. I would add a free-standing pergola (with timbers set in concrete) along one side of the garden room, planting a wisteria vine to provide privacy while allowing in light and air. The opposite fence should be defined by two ornamental trees to frame a private dining area with a natural stone floor. The same stone can be used for an informal path from front to back. The path stones should be set into pea gravel (with landscape fabric underneath) throughout the central section of the garden to eliminate the need for grass. Add new soil to planting areas along the perimeters for flowering shrubs and groundcovers. A bench for watching birds in their relocated bath will also enhance an attractive winter scene viewed from inside the house. The Plants Legend: s – Full Sunf – Part Shaded – Full Shadeh – Heightw – Width1. Canadian wild ginger (Asarum canadense) h 30 cm, w 15 cm, d, Zone 52. Dwarf Chinese astilbe (Astilbe chinensis var. pumila) h 30 cm, w 20 cm, d, Zone 43. ‘Green Mountain' boxwood (Buxus ‘Green Mountain') h1 m, w 1.5 m, s, Zone 64. Alpine strawberry (Fragaria vesca) h and w12 cm, s, Zone 55. ‘Unique' hydrangea (Hydrangea paniculata ‘Unique') h 2 m, w 1.5 m, s, Zone 56. ‘Henry's Garnet' sweetspire (Itea virginica ‘Henry's Garnet') h 2 m, w 1.5 m, s, Zone 67. ‘Leonard Messel' magnolia (Magnolia x loebneri ‘Leonard Messel') h 4 m, w 5 m, s, Zone 6 8. ‘Hameln' Fountain grass (Pennisetum alopecuroides ‘Hameln') h and w 60 cm, s, Zone 59. ‘Lady in red' fen (Athyrium filix-femina var. angustum) ‘Lady in Red') h and w 60 cm, f, Zone 410. ‘White Swan' clematis (Clematis macropetala) ‘White Swan') h 1 m, w 2 to 3 m, s, Zone 411. ‘Ruby Lace' honey-locust (Gleditsia triacanthos forma inermis) ‘Ruby Lace') h and w 8 m, s, Zone 512. French lace (a.k.a. Moulin Rouge) weigela (Weigela florida) ‘Brigela') h and w1.25 m, s, Zone 513. ‘Lawrence' wisteria (Wisteria floribunda ‘Lawrence') h 3 m, w 8 m, s, Zone 5If you have a garden design problem, send a clear photo and brief note (include planting zone) to Design Matters, Canadian Gardening, 25 Sheppard Avenue West, Suite 100, Toronto, ON M2N 6S7, or e-mail mailbox@canadiangardening.com. While individual replies are not possible, selected letters will be answered in this column. -
Autumn planter in shades of green Autumn planter in shades of green
Autumn planter in shades of green ofAn autumn planter This stylish arrangement, in shades of green, creamy white and silver, incorporates many of fall's best-loved plants for containers but in atypical colours that are a cool change from the more common orange, russet and gold. Another touch that lifts this display out of the ordinary is the use of subtle colour echoes-note the cream-coloured edges of the ‘Ice Dance' carex and the variegated English ivy, whose hue is picked up by the centres of the ornamental cabbage and chrysanthemum blooms-all set off by the unexpected counterpoint of the velvety, pewter-coloured leaves of ‘Cirrus' dusty miller. While the arrangement shown here has been created in a large, 60-by-55-centimetre fibreglass container, you could scale things down for a smaller pot by using fewer plants, eliminating the cedar and substituting a more delicate-looking dusty miller or artemisia for the ‘Cirrus'. TIPS:1. If your container is to be viewed from all sides, first centre the cedar in the soil, then build out your design from the middle.2. If the container is to stand against a wall, place the cedar toward the back and work forward with your design, focusing most of the interest in the front.3. Step back often to check your arrangement from all angles, and adjust the height and position of plants until they're pleasing to the eye.4. For added fun, casually group some of the pumpkins and gourds around the base of your container, as shown. Plant shopping list Plant shopping list:1 variegated English ivy1 white-and-yellow fall mum (‘Celino' used here)3 ‘Ice Dance' Carex (1 large, 2 small)6 Ornamental cabbage plants (3 small, 3 large)1 small emerald cedar (Thuja occidentalis ‘Smaragd') 3 green pumpkins 2 ‘Speckled swan' gourds2 white pumpkins2 bunches yellow-twig dogwood branches (Cornus sericea ‘Flaviramea') 2 Curly Kale2 ‘Cirrus' Dusty Miller (Senecio cineraria ‘Cirrus')Planter designed by: Paul Zammit, Plant World, Toronto; (416) 241-9174; www.plantworld.net- Credit
- Aldona Satterthwaite
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Simple Autumn Arrangements Simple Autumn Arrangements
Simple Autumn Arrangements ofFigments of your Imagination Company's coming, and you need a centrepiece for your dining table. If you want to move away from the usual mini-pumpkins and Indian corn, consider these elegant alternatives. All of them can be replicated with minimal fuss, and some of the elements can likely be found by foraging in your garden. The trick is to achieve a pleasing balance of colour and texture, so don't be afraid to experiment or make substitutions. Have fun!Figments of your ImaginationIn a shallow, dark container, fresh purple figs are surrounded by exotic persimmons, then bordered and draped with small branches of bittersweet. Can't find figs or persimmons? Try combining purple plums and mandarin oranges instead. Mum's the Word Mum's the WordHere, marigold-coloured dahlias (florist's chrysanthemums will work, too), green amaranth and tiny white gourds are displayed in a small, footed bowl. (Hint: to make life easier, anchor flowers in florist's oasis or foam-available at craft shops.) A shortage of amaranth? Try substituting artemisia, sedum or licorice vine cuttings. Enchanting Maples Enchanting MaplesCombine yellow Japanese maple leaves, orange-red daisy-type mums, tiny yellow orchids or freesia, rosehips and red amaranth, celosia or sumach in a small container for a pretty wall sconce or candelabra decoration. No Japanese maples? Use cutleaf golden elder or golden ninebark leaves instead (or any graceful yellow leaf).- Credit
- Aldona Satterthwaite
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Design ideas for foundation plantings Design ideas for foundation plantings
Design ideas for foundation plantings ofUsing plants to soften the foundation The foundation of this north-facing house is chopped up and distracting on all sides. A trellis with vines anchored to the bare wall will give it character. The sharp corners and many angles of the windows, steps, doors and drainpipes can be softened by skirting the house with foundation plants such as conifers and colourful deciduous shrubs. This, along with a new seating area, will create an inviting and cheerful scene.The utilitarian basement doors and porch make for a chaotic entryway; a more serene patio area is needed. I suggest constructing an informal seating arrangement with a park-style bench and simple aggregate slabs, located to the side of the porch, with adjacent plants for seasonal interest. The low winter temperatures in Zone 3 shorten the list of ornamental cultivars that can be safely planted, but many cold-resistant species will prosper. Conifers are especially useful to help clothe the house during long winter months, augmented with spring-flowering shrubs and small trees. With short summers and fewer growing days than warmer zones, many plants will fail to reach their full size. Small trees such as Amur maple and Preston lilac, and aggressive plants-American bittersweet vine and sumac, for example-have inhibited growth in Zone 3 and make good foundation selections. The plants to use The plants(legend: H - height; W - width)1. AMUR MAPLEAcer tataricum ssp. ginnalaH and W7 m, Zone 32. CUTLEAF SMOOTH SUMACRhus glabra ‘Laciniata' H and W5m, Zone 33. BEARBERRYArctostaphylos uva-ursiH5 cm, W 1m, Zone 24. RUGOSA ROSARosa rugosaH1.5m, W2m, Zone 35. DWARF MUGO PINEPinus mugo var. pumilio H2m, W2.5m, Zone 26. ‘WAREANA' SIBERIAN CEDARThuja occidentalis ‘Wareana'H2.5m, W1m, Zone 37. AMERICAN BITTERSWEETCelastrus scandensH3m, Zone 38. ‘FLAMING MOUND' SPIREASpiraea japonica 'Flaming Mound'H80 cm, W1m, Zone 39. MANCHU CHERRYa.k.a. Nanking cherryPrunus tomentosaH2m, W2.5m, Zone 310. ‘MISS CANADA' PRESTON LILACSyringa ‘Miss Canada'H2.5m, W1.5m, Zone 3- Credit
- Judith Adam
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Sensational summer plant combos Sensational summer plant combos
Sensational summer plant combos ofExperiment with light and dark colors in your plant combos Early to midsummer is the time many herbaceous perennials reach their maximum sizes, as they mass together and flower in (hopefully) artful partnerships. I'm delighted whenever these plant pairings make sweet melodies together, especially if I have influenced the musical selection. But sometimes, harmonious matches have more to do with light, growing circumstances and just plain luck.My garden has several areas of partial sun, so I'm always looking for plants that adapt well to changing light patterns. The silvery green leaves and lacy chartreuse blossoms of lady's mantle make attractive mounds from late May through August, and find a good companion in the lavender-blue flowers and bright cream-edged leaves of ‘Snow and Sapphires' Jacob's ladder. (Both plants appreciate a woodland soil with lots of humus, especially in bright sun.) I have these two at the base of a bronze-coloured lace-leaf Japanese maple (Acer palmatum var. dissectum), which makes a dramatic foil for the brightly coloured lady's mantle and Jacob's ladder. You can get the same effect by using a plum purple geranium such as Midnight Reiter, with startling violet-blue blooms. All the flowers in this grouping are small and frothy, and the play of light against dark leaves makes an interesting contrast in a small space.I like the idea of light- and dark-coloured companion plants and have a sweeping curtain of deepest maroon ‘Purple Fountain' weeping beech (Fagus sylvatica) as a backdrop to trembling clouds of mauve ‘Hewitt's Double' Yunnan meadow rue. Flower spikes of pale pink, fairy-like ‘Canon J. Went' toadflax (which modestly seeds itself around the garden) are here, as is a strong stand of mauve ‘Kobold' blazing star to reinforce the vertical lines in this grouping. Lurking about this spot is an elusive white foxglove that some years shows itself with tall stalks of milk-white bells with naked, spotless throats. Removing the grass from a small slope has given me a planting area in bright sunlight, with massive slabs of stone forming steps up the middle. Plants that ramble are useful here, and on one side of the steps I've squeezed in some sun-tolerant chartreuse coleus and two perennial geraniums: violet-blue Rozanne (with extra-large flowers blooming through November) and magenta-purple ‘Ann Folkard' (with chartreuse foliage). The geraniums tend to vine and scramble around. These mix it up with Clematis x durandii, a short, non-clinging species clematis with deep indigo blue flowers. (Shorter species and hybrid clematis are happy to sprawl and wander through other plants when a trellis isn't available, popping up to present their flowers.) Pale yellow ‘Moonbeam' threadleaf tickseed adds some height and warm colour, while strong punctuation is provided by a stand of school bus-yellow ‘Connecticut King' Asiatic lilies. On the opposite side of the steps is a big clump of ‘Morning Light' eulalia grass. Its pale green-and-white variegated blades make a soft background for the bicoloured, cherry red-to-pale pink ‘Paprika' yarrow. With them is the useful coneflower ‘Kim's Knee High', a dwarf cultivar (deep pink with an orange centre) adaptable to gentle slopes. By late summer, the garden becomes a scene of pleasant chaos, with plants massed together, leaning and tumbling over, as the gardener scrambles to stake, tie and deadhead. (This gardener soon gives up and lets the plants have their way!) A reliable group in partial shade is anchored by a large ‘Frances Williams' hosta, its puckered, yellow-banded leaves forming a background for the delicate (yet also indomitable) mounding strands of green-and-creamy-yellow variegated Moor grass, which holds its purplish flowers well into autumn. Keeping close company are two plants that carry on despite misfortunes of weather or gardener neglect: the ‘Albomarginata' Japanese toadlily, its exotic white flowers heavily spotted with maroon; and the intense electric-blue willow gentian that Louise Beebe Wilder described in the story of her garden outside of New York City, Adventures in a Suburban Garden (1931), as “…weighted with glorious blue trumpets in late summer.” Both plants have similar architecture, making small clumps of 30-centimetre-tall wands, their flowers facing upward to greet the onlooker. Match large-scale plants with easy-to-grow companions With each day already a fraction shorter, the end-of-summer garden has been nurturing large-scale plants that are finally in bloom. ‘Gateway' Joe Pye weed, which is more compact than its cousins but still reaches 1.5 metres tall, requires consistently moist soil. Another water-loving companion of suitable size and distinction is ornamental Chinese rhubarb. With them is Russian sage, a bushy, upright grower with fine-textured grey-green foliage, and many flower stalks extending cool-blue florets for several weeks at summer's end. Russian sage likes slightly drier soil, and amending the planting hole with sand and fine gravel will give this plant the quick drainage it prefers.The aster season is soon upon us with hundreds of species and cultivars to choose from. A few precocious new varieties pop open their flowers in August, such as Violet Queen Italian aster, with yellow-eyed sprays of violet-purple daisies, and ‘Bluebird' smooth aster, with red stems carrying single, violet-blue flowers (a tall plant, but it won't require staking if grown in full sun). Among the pink hues are mid-size pastel ‘Pink Cloud' heath aster and compact, lilac-mauve ‘Flora's Delight'. But to preserve myself from plant snobbery, I search roadsides and forgotten patches for tiny species asters, blooming as they have for hundreds of years since arriving as seeds in the pockets of colonists. There's room for all kinds in my garden.OPPOSITES AND SIMILARITIESCombining plants with complementary features adds style to a grouping. The likeness might be in varying shades of a common colour, such as deep pink phlox, purple coneflower (Echinacea spp.) and pale pink daylilies (Hemerocallis spp.). Or the similarity could work as well with form, combining tall and wiry flower stalks of beard-tongue (Penstemon spp.), false or prairie mallow (Sidalcea spp.) and perennial sage (Salvia). Pairing plants with opposite characteristics also creates interest, as with the low, spreading form of stonecrop (Sedum) surrounding tall mulleins (Verbascum).Colour contrasts also make for stylish combinations; for example, matching black mondo grass (Ophiopogon planiscapus ‘Nigrescens') with silver lambs' ears (Stachys byzantina).SEASONAL PARTNERS (early summer)Lady's mantle (Alchemilla mollis), 45 x 45 cm, light shade to full sun, Zone 3 Clematis x durandii, 1.5 m, full sun, Zone 5‘Moonbeam' threadleaf tickseed (Coreopsis verti-cillata ‘Moonbeam'), 45 x 60 cm, full sun, Zone 3 ‘Alba' purple foxglove (Digitalis purpurea forma albiflora), 120 x 30 cm, full sun to part shade, Zone 5 ‘Ann Folkard' geranium (Geranium ‘Ann Folkard'), 45 x 90 cm, full sun to part shade, Zone 5Midnight Reiter cranesbill geranium (G. pratense Midnight Reiter strain), 23 x 30 cm, full sun to part shade, Zone 4 Rozanne geranium (Geranium ‘Gerwat' Rozanne), 45 x 90 cm, full sun to part shade, Zone 5‘Kobold' blazing star (Liatris spicata ‘Kobold'), 50 x 20 cm, full sun, Zone 2‘Connecticut King' Asiatic lily (Lilium ‘Connecticut King'), 75 cm, full sun, Zone 4‘Canon J. Went' purple toadflax (Linaria purpurea ‘Canon J. Went'), 75 x 25 cm, full sun, Zone 4‘Snow and Sapphires' Jacob's ladder (Polemonium caeruleum ‘Snow and Sapphires'), 60 x 45 cm, full sun to part shade, Zone 4‘Hewitt's Double' Yunnan meadow rue (Thalictrum delavayi ‘Hewitt's Double'), 120 x 45 cm, part shade to full sun, Zone 4 Late summer plant combos; where to get them SEASONAL PARTNERS (late summer)‘Paprika' yarrow (Achillea millefolium ‘Paprika'), 60 x 60 cm, full sun, Zone 3Violet Queen Italian aster (Aster amellus ‘Veilchenkönigin' [Violet Queen]), 45 x 30 cm, full sun, Zone 5‘Pink Cloud' heath aster (A. ericoides ‘Pink Cloud'), 75 x 45 cm, full sun, Zone 4‘Flora's Delight' aster (A. x frikartii ‘Flora's Delight'), 45 x 45 cm, full sun, Zone 6‘Bluebird' smooth aster (A. laevis ‘Bluebird'), 90 x 45 cm, full sun, Zone 5‘Kim's Knee High' purple coneflower (Echinacea purpurea ‘Kim's Knee High'), 60 x 30 cm, full sun to part shade, Zone 4 ‘Gateway' Joe Pye weed (Eupatorium ssp. maculatum ‘Gateway'), 150 x 60 cm, part shade to full sun, Zone 4Willow gentian (Gentiana asclepiadea), 45 x 30 cm, part to full shade, Zone 6‘Frances Williams' hosta (Hosta ‘Frances Williams'), 1 x 1.3 m, part to full shade, Zone 3‘Morning Light' eulalia grass (Miscanthus sinensis ‘Morning Light'), 1.5 m x 90 cm, full sun to part shade, Zone 6Variegated purple Moor grass (Molinia caerulea ssp. caerulea ‘Variegata'), 60 x 60 cm, part shade to full sun, Zone 4Russian sage (Perovskia atriplicifolia) 120 x 90 cm, full sun, Zone 5Ornamental Chinese rhubarb (Rheum palmatum var. tanguticum), 120 x 90 cm, part shade to full sun, Zone 4‘Albomarginata' Japanese toadlily (Tricyrtis hirta ‘Albomarginata'), 60 x 45 cm, part to full shade, Zone 5WHERE TO GET THEM - KEYAchillea millefolium ‘Paprika': 1, Alchemilla mollis: 2, Aster amellus ‘Violet Queen': 3, A. ericoides ‘Pink Cloud': 4, A. x frikartii ‘Flora's Delight': 5, A. laevis ‘Bluebird': 6, Clematis x durandii: 7, Coreopsis verticillata ‘Moonbeam': 8, Digitalis purpurea ssp. albiflora: 9, Echinacea purpurea ‘Kim's Knee High': 10, Eupatorium maculatum ‘Gateway': 11, Gentiana asclepiadea: 12, Geranium ‘Ann Folkard': 13, G. pratense ‘Midnight Reiter': 14, G. psilostemon ‘Rozanne': 15, Hosta ‘Frances Williams': 16, Liatris spicata ‘Kobold': 17, Lilium ‘Connecticut King': 18, Linaria purpurea ‘Canon J. Went': 19, Miscanthus sinensis ‘Morning Light': 20, Molinia caerulea ‘Variegata': 21, Perovskia atriplicifolia: 22, Polemonium caeruleum ‘Snow and Sapphires': 23, Rheum palmatum var. tanguticum: 24, Thalictrum delavayi ‘Hewitt's Double': 25, Tricyrtis hirta ‘Albomarginata': 26. SOURCESBrookside Perennials: 1-3, 5, 10, 11, 14, 16, 22, 23. Centre du Jardin Deux-Montagnes Inc.: 1, 2, 8, 11, 16, 17, 20, 22. Don & Anna’s Greenhouses and Garden Centre: 16, 17. Down to Earth Gardens: 2. El Summit Perennials Nursery: 1, 8, 12, 19. Fraser’s Thimble Farms: 2, 12, 17, 22, 24, 25. Hole’s Greenhouses & Gardens Ltd.: 1-3, 7-9, 11, 17, 18, 22-25. Pleasant Valley Nurseries Ltd.: 2, 8, 10. Richbar Nursery Ltd.: 8, 17, 22. Richmond Nursery Ltd.: 1-6, 8-11, 13-17, 19-26. Wild Things Plant Farm: 2, 8, 12, 16, 17, 20, 22.- Credit
- Judith Adam
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Eye-catching blue gentians Eye-catching blue gentians
Eye-catching blue gentians ofAdd intense eye-catching blue colour to your garden Gentians are all about blue-clear, intense, eye-catching blue. If their small floral trumpets were magenta, lavender or yellow, the flower might otherwise go unnoticed; but only a very distracted gardener could fail to spot and admire the brilliant blues of gentians.The genus Gentiana is vast, with roughly 350 species scattered around the globe in mountain meadows, pastures and bogs, and beside streams. But despite their plentitude, only a few are worth growing: some are dull or nondescript; others are fussy about site. One of the prettiest gentians grows wild in our geographic backyard. Along the shores of Ontario's Lake Huron, sky-blue fringed gentians (G. crinita syn. Gentianopsis crinita, Zone 3) root down in mossy hollows and narrow fissures in the limestone slabs that edge the water. Experts agree that the fringed gentian is a difficult species to cultivate—best for it to stay windblown and wild. Still, there are enough other varieties to tempt any gardener. As a rule, gentians prefer a woodland soil: moist but well drained and supplied with a generous amount of humus in the form of crumbly leaf mould or compost. Choose a site that catches the sun for at least half the day or offers dappled shade, but avoid hot spots seared by the full force of afternoon rays.Two for springTrumpet gentian (G. acaulis, zone 3)Every spring, sometime in early May, I get down on my hands and knees and count the pointed green buds rising from a ground-hugging, dark green mat of trumpet gentians (also known as the stemless gentian; acaulis translates as "no-neck") tucked against a boulder in our rock garden. One year there may be two or three flowers above tiny, pointed leaves, the next year a dozen skyward-facing trumpets may appear. The intensely blue blooms are set off by green stripes on the exterior and a white throat spotted with blue. As with many alpines, this native European mountaineer displays disproportionately large flowers (six centimetres long) for the plant's otherwise small scale. Beautiful and not very common in gardens, our trumpet gentian is a plant we treasure and fret over, even though it has survived for 10 years and come through at least two divisions and transplants. Spring gentian (G. verna, zone 4) A wee mite, just five centimetres tall and wide, the spring gentian grows small rosettes of oval-shaped, dark green leaves in May, all but covered with a host of star-shaped, deep blue flowers with white throats—if you're lucky, that is. This little one has a reputation for being sulky and short-lived. But it's still worth a trial in a rock garden pocket of lean soil that's gritty with small stone chips rather than stuffed with organic matter. Ideal gentians for summer and fall Two for summerCrested gentian (G. septemfida, zone 3)Small, trumpet-shaped, medium blue flowers clustered at the ends of 20-centimetre-tall stems characterize the crested gentian. Its narrow, spoon-shaped leaves are both dark green and evergreen (if protected by snow). Also commonly known as everyman's gentian, it's tolerant of a range of soils and sites, making it easy enough for a novice to grow yet lovely enough for the seasoned alpine collector. Each plant expands to form a circle about 30 centimetres across with stems splayed out from a central crown and turned up at the ends to show off their flowers. For an attractive, natural-looking display, plant this gentian in groups of three, 20 centimetres apart, among large rocks close to a pathway where the intricacy of blooms can be appreciated against a neutral background.Willow gentian (G. asclepiadea, zone 5)Coming from a family of shorties, the willow gentian (its name derived from its long, narrow leaves resembling those of a willow) is something of an oddball, growing from 60 to 100 centimetres tall. This species is normally found growing near streams, so for impressive growth and flowering, try to replicate the dampness of its natural home by planting in rich, moist soil, fattened up with a large helping of peat or leaf mould. Mulch with a thin layer of decayed leaves or compost to hold moisture and maintain a cool root zone. Situate where it will receive some shade during the hottest part of the day. Its blue trumpet-shaped flowers, with darker blue inside, appear in ascending clusters at the top of arching stems, starting in July and continuing into August.Two for fallG. x macaulayi, zone 4Standing all of 10 centimetres tall, this autumn-flowering gentian trails stems of narrow, dark green leaves along the ground before turning upward in September to show its trumpet-shaped flowers with flaring mouths, often five centimetres wide. Its colour is a clean medium blue with white streaks and violet undertones along the throat. Some of the prostrate stems may root as they travel, and bits can be snipped away and replanted in full sun or dappled shade in moist, slightly acidic soil. ‘Kingfisher' has slightly larger flowers of a brighter blue. G. sino-ornata, zone 6Resembling G. acaulis in form and markings, this Nepalese species is vivid blue and opens in September and October. Growing all of 10 centimetres high, the clumps of narrow, grasslike leaves must be protected from the hot, midday sun and kept evenly moist through the summer. Filtered shade from trees that do not suck up every drop of moisture is ideal. Satisfy the plant's preference for slightly acidic soil by mixing in well-rotted leaves, peat moss or compost, and (as with the others) pick a place among rocks away from big, floppy perennials that could soon smother smaller gentians. If a clump grows large and looks divisible, slice into it with a knife and trowel out a segment for immediate replanting (or temporary potting) in early May or just as new growth begins to show. Where to get them Key: Gentiana acaulis: 1, G. asclepiadea: 2, G. x macaulayi ‘Kingfisher': 3, G. x m.: 4, G. septemfida: 5, G. sino-ornata: 6, G. verna: 7.SourcesBeaver Creek Greenhouses: 1, 7. Brentwood Bay Nurseries: 1, 2. Canning Perennials: 2, 5.El Summit Perennials Nursery: 2. Fraser's Thimble Farms: 1, 3. Gardens North: 1, 2. Golden Acre Garden Sentre: 1, 5. Hansi's Nursery: 1, 2. Hole's Greenhouses & Gardens Ltd.: 1, 4, 5. Mason Hogue Gardens: 1, 5. Pacific Rim Native Plant Nursery: 1, 5, 6. Richlyn Nurseries Ltd.: 1, 2, 5. A World Of Gardens By Roz: 2. Wrightman Alpines: 1, 3, 7.- Credit
- Patrick Lima
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5 best fragrant white-blooming shrubs 5 best fragrant white-blooming shrubs
5 best fragrant white-blooming shrubs ofWhite-blooming plants for your garden The Winner:Koreanspice viburnum (Viburnum carlesii) There's something magical about Koreanspice viburnum in late April or early May when its snowball-like white flower clusters open to spill their intoxicating fragrance into the air—a fragrance so heady it can be enjoyed from 10 metres away. This shrub (as tall as it is wide at 1.25 to 2.5 metres) blooms for 10 days as its foliage emerges (if not deadheaded, the resulting sparse red fruit will ripen to black). Its dark green leaves have a satin-like lustre on their upper surfaces, while their undersides are fuzzy. Although their reddish fall colour is unreliable, the leaves persist into late autumn. ‘Compactum' is the dwarf form, which reaches just one metre tall and wide, and is a great choice for smaller gardens. Both prefer moderately fertile, well-drained soil and part to full sun. Zone 4.Honourable Mentions:Summersweet, Clethra alnifoliaHeight 1.25 to 2 m; Spread 1.25 to 2 m; Location - full shade to full sun; moderately fertile, well-drained to moist soil; Cultivation - spreads by stolons; Flowers - white, fragrant, five-petalled, upright panicles; blooms last up to six weeks and attract bees; July to August; Foliage - lustrous dark green in summer; pale yellow to yellow-brown in fall; Zone 4‘Henry Hudson' hybrid rugosa shrub Explorer rose Rosa ‘Henry Hudson'Height 75 cm; Spread 30 to 45 cm; Location - part to full sun; moderately fertile, well-drained soil; Cultivation - deadhead if desired; disease-resistant; Flowers - crimson-flushed buds open to very fragrant, semi-double, pinkish white flowers; recurrent blooms until frost; Foliage - deep green; Fruit - abundant bright red hips in fall; Zone 3‘Carol Mackie' burkwood daphne Daphne x burkwoodii ‘Carol Mackie'Height 1.25 m; Spread 1.5 m; Location - part to full sun; moderately fertile, well-drained soil with neutral pH; Cultivation - mulch 2.5 cm deep with leaf mould, compost or small bark chips; Flowers - small, star-shaped, pink-tinged buds in clusters opening white; very fragrant; May; Foliage - evergreen; greyish green with narrow, yellow margins; Zone 4Also consider these plants:‘Blizzard' mock orangePhiladelphus lewisii ‘Blizzard', Zone 3 Where to get them KEY:Clethra alnifolia: 1, Daphne x burkwoodii ‘Carol Mackie': 2, Philadelphus ‘Blizzard': 3, Rosa ‘Henry Hudson': 4, Viburnum carlesii: 5.SOURCESBrookside Perennials: 1, 2, 5. Cedar Hollow Rose Farm: 4. Corn Hill Nursery Ltd.: 3. Creekside Nursery & Garden Centre: 2. Eagle Lake Nurseries Ltd., Strathmore: 4. Fraser's Thimble Farms: 1, 2, 5. Galetta Nurseries: 1, 4. Hole's Greenhouses & Gardens Ltd.: 2, 3.Hortico Inc.: 1, 2, 4. Humber Nurseries Ltd. & Butterfly Conservatory:1, 2, 4, 5.Old Rose Nursery: 4. Peninsula Flowers Nursery: 1. Richbar Nursery Ltd.: 1, 3, 5. Richmond Nursery Ltd.: 1-3. Rideau Woodland Ramble: 1-3. Van Dongens Nurseries: 5. Village Nursery: 3. Wild Things Plant Farm: 1, 2, 5. Woodland Nurseries: 1.- Credit
- Ann Marie Van Nest
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Best spring yellow plants Best spring yellow plants
Best spring yellow plants ofBest spring yellow plants The Winner:‘Northern Gold' Forsythia (Forsythia ‘Nothern Gold')The arrival of brilliant yellow forsythia blooms are a true harbinger of spring. Now this yellow jubilation can be reliably enjoyed in northern gardens even as cold as Morden, Manitoba. ‘Northern Gold', developed from Forsythia ovata ‘Ottawa' and F. europaea parents by Felicitas Svejda of Agriculture and Agri-Food Canada, is one of the most bud-hardy cultivars available. Its golden yellow blooms cover arching branches in mid-spring (not just below the snow line, as is the case with some of its inferior cousins), shining like a beacon. This cultivar has a traditional upright vase shape (2 m high by 1.5 m wide) and blooms best in full sun. Plant this forsythia in moist, moderately fertile, well-drained soil. ‘Northern Gold' can look somewhat straggly as it ages (as do most forsythia), so keep its shape in check by pruning out up to one-third of the oldest branches after flowering. Plant in groups for added drama. Zone 3b.Honourable Mentions:Cushion SpurgeEuphorbia polychromaHeight 45 cm; Spread 60 cm; Location part shade to full sun; dry, moderately fertile, well-drained soil; Cultivation may self-seed. Protect skin from milky sap, which can cause dermatitis; Flowers small, yellow with masses of long-lasting bright yellow bracts; mid-spring to early summer; Foliage medium green during growing season and bronze in fall; Zone 4. Cowslip Primula verisHeight 15 to 22 cm; Spread 30 cm; Location part shade to full sun; moist, fertile, well-drained soil; Cultivation contact with leaves may cause dermatitis; Flowers fragrant, dainty, nodding, lemon yellow; early spring; Foliage dark green rosette; Zone 5.‘Gold dust' Basket of Gold Alyssum Aurinia saxatilis ‘Gold Dust' Height 10 to 15 cm; Spread 30 to 45 cm; Location full sun to part shade; moderately fertile, well-drained soil; Cultivation trim back after blooming; drought-tolerant; Flowers small, bright golden yellow; mid-sprin; Foliage grey-green; mounding habit; Zone 3. Where to get them Also consider these:Cornelian cherry dogwoodCornus mas, Zone 5‘Lutea Maxima' crown imperial Fritillaria imperialis ‘Lutea Maxima', Zone 5Yellow dwarf irisIris danfordiae, Zone 4 ‘Carlton' daffodilNarcissus ‘Carlton', Zone 3Where to get themKEY: Aurinia saxatilis ‘Goldkugel' (similar to ‘Gold Dust'): 1, Cornus mas: 2, Euphorbia polychroma: 3, Forsythia ‘Northern Gold': 4, Fritillaria imperialis ‘Maxima Lutea': 5, Iris danfordiae: 6, Narcissus ‘Carlton': 7, Primula veris: 8.B. Dinter Nursery Ltd.: 2. Botanix Azilda Greenhouses: 3. Canning Perennials: 1, 3. Connon Nurseries: 2. Eagle Lake Nurseries Ltd.: 3, 4. El Summit Perennials Nursery: 3, 8. Gardenimport Inc.: 5, 8. Golden Bough Tree Farm: 2. Greengate Garden Centres Ltd.: 6, 7. Hole's Greenhouses & Gardens Ltd.: 3, 6, 8. Hortico Inc.: 2-4, 8. McFayden Seed Co. Ltd.: 7. Pickett's Nurseries: 2, 4. Richbar Nursery Ltd.: 4. Richmond Nursery Ltd.: 1, 3, 4, 8. Via Verde: 5, 7. Wild Things Plant Farm: 3.- Credit
- Anne Marie Van Nest
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Cool colours in the garden Cool colours in the garden
Cool colours in the garden ofSpiritually elevating effects of cool colours Spiritually elevating effects of cool coloursThe calming and spiritually elevating effects of cool plant colours such as blue, purple, lavender, violet and mauve are cumulative. Plant one purple salvia and it's a restful point of interest. But fill a glade with blue poppies, as did Elsie Reford in her Quebec garden masterpiece, Les Jardins de Métis, and it's a transformative event. In 1946, Reford sent a picture of her poppy glade along with her written thanks to British plant explorer Francis Kingdon Ward (1885–1958), who had brought the Himalayan blue poppy back from Tibet and made its seeds available through the Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew. She expressed her satisfaction with the poppies that had successfully adapted in Grand Métis, saying, “So well does [the flower] grow that to walk along a path between gently sloping banks entirely veiled with the exquisite blue poppiesis like going through some ethereal valley in a land of dreams.” Initially, the blue border plan of British garden stylist Gertrude Jekyll had gained Reford's admiration and sparked her interest. Miss Jekyll's cool border combined intense blues and purples with grey, foam white, and pale yellow; but her blue poppies failed to excel in the British climate and couldn't hold a candle to Reford's.The cool palette is the broadest group of hues, tints and shades to be found in petals and foliage. Few cool colours are pure hues, although one exception is the intense blue of several gentian species, including two easy-to-grow types, the summer and the willow, both admired for their flared, late-summer, true-blue flowers. While some gentians are subtle hues of white or yellow, the deeply saturated colour of the blue species has sufficient impact to jolt a border—their intensity can overwhelm a planting scheme. Cool colours with complex shades and suffusions are more adaptable in mixed plantings. Blue and purple are often imbued with red to produce violet, mauve and lavender. I once nurtured a solitary specimen of Himalayan blue poppy grown from seed and can report that it was a washed out blue flushed with pinkish mauve (of which a treasured photograph exists). Others I've seen certainly had a better blue colour, but mine had been influenced by soil and climate conditions, and perhaps the unpredictability of seedling variation. Similar red flushing also appears in the flower buds of Virginia bluebells and in the tiny blossoms of ephemeral woodland forget-me-nots, both of which are medium sky blue suffused with purple and pink. The large family of perennial geraniums includes many blue and purple flowers strongly influenced by red pigment to producea range of cool colours, such as ‘Purple Pillow' (magenta-purple), Geranium himalayense (violet-blue with a reddish pink cast) and ‘Nimbus' (amethyst purple flushed with pink).When planting in cool colours, we need to anticipate and employ the visual trickery of deep hues. The darker the colour, the more it will optically recede, suggesting the planting space is deeper and larger than it actually is. This is an excellent trick to employ in small gardens. A stand of deep violet-blue ‘Bressingham Spire' monkshood will give a corner more depth, but used alone, cool colours in the dark range can appear muddy. They can be improved with just a touch of a paler and less concentrated accent plant colour to lighten the image and bring it forward. Good plant partners with the monkshood include smoky lavender ‘Purple Sails' coral bells and a ruffled clump of ‘Golden Tiara' hosta, with light green, heart-shaped leaves edged in chartreuse and purple flowers in July. A similar dark-and-light partnership can also be struck among deep purple ‘Prairie Dusk' penstemon combined with the lavender-blue flowers and silver-grey leaves of ‘Little Spire' dwarf Russian sage and a bright clump of ‘Moonshine' yarrow, with its canary yellow flowers and grey-green leaves. Carrying the cool palette through autumn Carrying the cool palette through autumnThe soft range of the cool palette drifts toward romantic combinations of violet, pale blue, mauve and pink, such as the icy pink ‘Sarah Bernhardt' peony, a scented double flower of slightly fringed, shell pink petals with silver highlights, which works well against the canes of the species redleaf rose. Its dark, reddish purple leaves provide a subtly cool counterpoint all season. For other border partners, the perennial cornflower ‘John Coutts', with its finely cut, greyish green foliage and clear magenta-pink flowers, will be happy next to ‘Butterfly Blue' dwarf pincushion flower, offering a long season of soft blue bloom. Add in the dreamy (and mildew-resistant) ‘Franz Schubert' phlox, with its moody, lilac-blue flowers and the emphasis of a darker eye; and the palest porcelain blue ‘Chettle Charm' peachleaf bell-flower, with a fine line of violet along each bell rim. Complete the summer show with two mid-season daylilies, such as the big, ruffled, pure ivory blossoms of ‘Innocent Bystander' (flushed green-gold in the throat) acting as mother to the smaller, ruffled, cream-coloured ‘Siloam Ury Winniford', with a dramatic maroon-purple throat. To carry the cool palette through autumn, steely blue ‘Elijah Blue' fescue is a low-growing ornamental grass for filling gaps between plant clumps, and it's wise to include two Michaelmas daisies-‘Flora's Delight', with lilac-mauve, single flowers (each with a yellow eye), and ‘White Opal', a dwarf with frilly, yellow-eyed, double white blossoms. Finally, consider adding the frosty grey-green foliage of ‘Matrona' stonecrop (which sometimes has a hairline of pink showing along the edges of each leaf), with beet red stems carrying dusty pink flowers on which the season's monarch butterflies may want to rest.In addition to herbaceous plants for the industrious gardener, it's also possible to add some low maintenance cool palette influences to the garden with small- to medium-sized trees and shrubs. ‘Iseli Foxtail' Colorado spruce has a tight pyramidal shape with striking light blue needles and can fill a corner as the one big tree in your garden, as can the ‘Vanderwolf's Pyramid' limber pine, with its stylized columnar form and long, vibrant blue-green clustered needles. The dwarf blue cypress ‘Boulevard' is silvery blue-green in summer and greyish blue in winter, and would easily fit into a shrub border, growing to two metres in height and spread, along with the bright blue ‘Blue Arrow' juniper, which is tightly pyramidal and grows to four metres tall but only 80 centimetres wide. ‘Blue Carpet' and ‘Blue Creeper' junipers have intense blue foliage and grow horizontally to form dense groundcover carpets. Or, for a softer, flowering groundcover that lasts from spring through autumn, Dalmatian bellflower offers violet-blue, bell-shaped blooms that almost hide its toothed, heart-shaped leaves. The plant spreads by underground roots to form a low, mounding mat. Colour categories; primitive colours COLOUR CATEGORIESAnalogous Colours that are harmonious and closely related, such as orange and yellow, red and pink. Analogous colours strengthen and unify a garden colour scheme.Complementary Two colours that are opposite one another on a colour wheel and provide intensity when partnered. Examples include the hot and cool effects of burnt orange and cobalt blue, or red and green. Polychromatic A carnival effect, mixing any and all hues together in one eclectic, random scheme. Monochromatic Colours that are varying shades of the same basic hue. In a monochromatic scheme, such as various shades of pink blossoms, other design elements like texture and form become important.PRIMITIVE COLOURSThe vivid hues of hybridized garden plants such as geraniums and impatiens are the result of breeding programs in which genes are manipulated to produce particular petal colorations. But the ancient species ancestors of modern hybrids may have had quite different hues. With a bit of time and patience, you can test this theory by collecting seeds from annual impatiens of any colour in late summer. Save them to grow next spring; then collect the next crop of seeds. After three or four generations, you'll begin to have seedlings in a dominant colour (most likely a dull magenta). This is the original hue of impatiens that once grew in semi-tropical jungles.- Credit
- Judith Adam
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