Two of our experts reveal what they look for in garden gear and, along with seven others, chime in with their favourite tools
Stephen: As neighbours for about a dozen years, Judith and I have had ample opportunity to scrutinize one another's gardening prowess and have been known to dash across the street shouting “Stop it! You're going to kill that!” Recently we sat down to discuss garden tools and discovered our occasional differences of opinion were not limited to planting techniques.
Judith: Tools are an extension of my hand, so
it's important to buy ones that fit my grip and that I can control. I have quite a few, many I just use for a single purpose.
Stephen: I want tools to be sturdy, and if they have moving parts, I want to be able to repair or refit them easily. Good-quality tools should last for many years—my favourite spade is older than I am, but it can still be sharpened to a knife-blade cutting edge.
Spade and shovel
J: I prefer a blunt-nosed spade for most light digging. The straight edge quickly excavates holes for small shrubs, and slices a precision edge around the lawn. For deep digging, I find a long-handled, pointed shovel prevents back stress.
S: I rarely use a shovel but wouldn't be without my steel spade. I like a hardwood shaft (usually ash), as I have bent reinforced plastic shafts in half when digging in clay soils. Metal spades made of aluminum alloys (rather than stainless steel) only stay sharp for about a year and don't re-sharpen well.
Trowel
J: To avoid wrist damage from the repetitive movements of planting annuals, I use a trowel with a gooseneck or offset blade. I find that a straight trowel (with the handle and blade aligned) shifts the stress directly to my wrist, but an offset blade keeps the resistance at the front end.
S: Unlike Judith, I haven't had good luck with gooseneck trowels and invariably end up with bent shafts. I prefer a straight trowel made of a single piece of stainless steel with a handle coated in thick rubber—it's impossible to bend or break.
J: Typical contrariness.
Rake
J: Select a rake that's in scale with your own height; shorter is better, and the top should be about nose level. Appropriate length is key to moving leaves effectively, and it doesn't matter if the tines are metal or plastic.
S: My favourite rake has a bamboo handle and wooden tines; it has served me reliably for 10 years and was very inexpensive. Rakes with metal tines are usually long-lasting, though they have a tendency to spear the leaves. I don't like rakes with plastic tines, as they break easily.
Pruning shears
J: The most important criterion for pruning shears is fit. You should be able to grasp the shears with one hand and operate the open/close function with your thumb.
S: I use my pruning shears constantly, and this is one category of tool I'm prepared to pay top dollar for. Cheap pruners will hurt your hands and break easily; they can also leave ragged cuts on plant tissue—an open invitation to pests and disease. Look for ones with replaceable parts (especially the blade) and keep them clean and well oiled.
Lopping shears
J: Loppers are similar to pruning shears, but bigger and more powerful. Make sure the lopper arms are a comfortable length to use. If your arms are short, long handles will feel cumbersome.
S: My loppers have adjustable (or telescopic) metal handles—a useful feature. Avoid ones that are extra heavy at the blade end, as they're difficult to wield accurately. Since most pruning is done in early spring or late fall, buy loppers with rubber grips—they'll keep your fingers warmer!
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