Gardens
Community gardening
Community gardening of
1 For some, gardening is a solo activity, a way to clear the mind while shaping an outdoor space. For others, gardening is inherently social: by creating a communal space for growing food crops and ornamentals, these people are building bridges between community members, beautifying public space and sharing knowledge – and the fruits of their labours – with each other. "A community garden is a safe, welcoming and beautiful landmark for any community," says Torontonian James Kuhns, president of the American Community Gardening Association (ACGA), which works to increase and enhance community gardening projects across the United States and Canada. "It's a place where gardeners help fellow gardeners."What is a community garden?A community garden, according to the ACGA, is, broadly speaking, any piece of land gardened by a group of people. This definition includes gardens dedicated to ornamentals or edibles in rural, suburban and urban communities with the goal of producing food or simply fostering community. "The purpose is for people to grow vegetables, fruit or flowers in a shared space," says Kuhns. "They also share some of the labour and tools and do certain projects together as a group."Community vs. allotment gardensThere is often confusion between the definition of a community versus an allotment garden. While there is some overlap, strictly speaking, an allotment garden is a series of individual plots for which gardeners pay a fee. These gardens are often organized by the municipal government and there may not be any interaction between gardeners. But in community gardens, says Kuhns, "building community is key." While gardeners may work individually delineated plots, they all participate in the running of the garden and often share some of the work. For example, says Kuhns, "many community gardens will have common plots that all gardeners work on, with the produce being donated to food programs."Page 1 of 2 2 Community gardening: What's it for?While the tangible benefits of a community garden may be its fruits and vegetables, the intangibles are perhaps even more valuable. "In a community garden people work together," says Kuhns. "Different ages and cultures mix." The AGCA lists a number of benefits that result from community gardening:• Better quality of life for those involved• Improved neighbourhood and community development• Neighbourhood beautification• Provision of nutritious and budget-friendly food• Conservation of resources• Preservation of green space• Opportunities for cross-generational and cross-cultural connections"Community gardeners also celebrate together," says Kuhns. "The harvest, friendships, helping each other out – their beautiful place."Community gardens: How to get involvedThere are two ways to get involved in a community garden: join an existing one, or create one yourself.To find an existing community garden, Kuhns suggests the following steps:• Go to a local community garden and start talking to people• Look for announcements of community garden groups holding meetings• Call your councillor or city recreation departmentThe AGCA also offers a searchable databases of community gardens in the U.S. and Canada, and many cities have community gardening information available online.If there is no existing community garden near your home, or if you're aware of a neighbourhood space that would be the perfect location for a new community project, you may want to start a new community garden, "a long, but rewarding process," says Kuhns, who suggests starting – where else? – in the community, by organizing a meeting of interested people from your neighbourhood. Kuhns also recommends the following steps:• Find a potential site. Space need not be an issue – community gardens come in all shapes and sizes – but you will need sunlight and access to water.• Contact your city councillor. He or she can make things happen and give you access to municipal resources: you might get free soil testing, digging, topsoil and compost, for instance.• Do lots of outreach work, especially with members of the potential garden's neighbourhood.Community gardens are for everyoneEven if you enjoy gardening independently on your own land you can still get involved in a community garden. The human interactions that take place are "something you unfortunately see all too rarely," says Kuhns. "A community garden is a special place where people work together to make something big and beautiful."Page 2 of 2
- Credit
- Kat Tancock
More Gardens
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7 easy-care ferns 7 easy-care ferns
7 easy-care ferns ofKeeping ferns happy While ferns are among the most delicate-looking of plants, their constitutions are anything but fragile. Many ferns, including evergreen types, are iron-clad hardy, and most are highly adaptable, thriving in average garden soil and part shade. Some are even surprisingly drought-tolerant in light shade; still others can thrive in full sun in moist to boggy soil.More importantly, no fern need ever be fussed over. These primitive plants have been around for a good 350 million years longer than we've been (give or take a few hundred thousand years), and will do quite nicely with no attention at all, thank you. The only thing we gardeners need to do is select the right fern for the right spot.With thousands of species and varieties to choose from, there's a fern-or a dozen-perfectly suited to every garden and situation: perennial bed, foundation planting, groundcover, focal point, rock garden, edging, pondside feature, container and more. But be forewarned: these easy-growing shade plants may be habit-forming.Keeping ferns happyAlthough they'll grow anywhere under almost any circumstances, there are steps you can take to maximize your fern's success.• Site in part (not deep) shade sheltered from wind and direct sun.• Ensure soil is moisture-retentive but loose; roots need air as much as they also need water. • Select ferns best adapted to local conditions; established, well-chosen ferns need watering only in extended periods of drought. • Provide plenty of humus (natural, shredded leaf litter is ideal), but do not overfertilize. • Once they're established, do not disturb plants by cultivating around roots or moving clumps unnecessarily. Easy-care fern specimens 1 American maidenhair fern (Adiantum pedatum) Native to northeastern North America. Deciduous; airy, rounded leaflets arranged in finger-like pattern on wiry black stems. Forms dense colonies. Despite fragile look, tough as nails in moist, acidic soil in part shade. Height 30 to 60 cm Zone 2 2 Golden male fern (Dryopteris affinis) and male fern (D. filix-mas) Semi-evergreen; tall and robust, with many crested forms. Very adaptable; tolerate part sun; tolerate drought in medium shade. D. a. ‘Polydactyla Dadds' is one of the most handsome and reliable varieties. Height 60 to 120 cm Zone 43 Hart's tongue fern (Asplenium scolopendrium syn. Phyllitis scolopendrium) Evergreen; undivided fronds; many varieties with wavy to ruffled edges. Needs neutral to alkaline soil that's moist but well drained; don't overwater. Tolerates part sun. Height 20 to 40 cm Zone 44 Lady fern (Athyrium filix-femina) Deciduous; hundreds of varieties, most have very finely dissected fronds. Prefers humus-rich loam in light to medium shade, but very adaptable. Height 50 to 100 cm Zone 35 Royal fern (Osmunda regalis) Native to eastern North America. Deciduous; majestic, erect fronds with coppery red stems (red-purple in ‘Purpurascens'); foliage turns golden in fall. Tolerates full sun in boggy soil; part shade in average (not too dry) soil. Height to 1.5 m Zone 26 Autumn fern (Dryopteris erythrosora) Evergreen; new spring growth is coppery orange. Very adaptable and resilient; needs good drainage; drought-tolerant in shade. Height 20 to 50 cm Zone 57 Japanese painted fern (Athyrium niponicum var. pictum) Deciduous; striking, metallic-silver fronds with red stems. Needs cool, sheltered site in moist but well-drained, acidic soil. ‘Branford Beauty' is a newer, more vigorous form. Height 40 to 50 cm Zone 4 Where to get them Key: Adiantum pedatum: 1, Asplenium scolopendrium: 2, Athyrium filix-femina: 3, A. niponicum var. pictum: 4, Dryopteris affinis ‘Polydactyla Dadds': 5, D. filix-mas: 6, D. erythrosora: 7, Osmunda regalis: 8.Acorus Restoration Native Plant Nursery: 3. Au Jardin de Jean-Pierre: 1, 3, 4, 6-8. Blomidon Nurseries Ltd.: 1, 3, 4, 6, 8. Brookside Gardens: 1, 6. Don & Anna's Greenhouses and Garden Centre: 3, 8. Fraser's Thimble Farms: 1, 3-5, 7, 8. Hole's Greenhouses & Gardens Ltd.: 1, 3, 4, 6, 8. Pacific Rim Native Plant Nursery: 3, 7, 8. Village Nursery: 1-4, 7. Wildflower Farm: 1, 8. Wild Things Plant Farm: 1-4, 7, 8.- Credit
- Carol Hall
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Community gardening Community gardening
Community gardening of1 For some, gardening is a solo activity, a way to clear the mind while shaping an outdoor space. For others, gardening is inherently social: by creating a communal space for growing food crops and ornamentals, these people are building bridges between community members, beautifying public space and sharing knowledge – and the fruits of their labours – with each other. "A community garden is a safe, welcoming and beautiful landmark for any community," says Torontonian James Kuhns, president of the American Community Gardening Association (ACGA), which works to increase and enhance community gardening projects across the United States and Canada. "It's a place where gardeners help fellow gardeners."What is a community garden?A community garden, according to the ACGA, is, broadly speaking, any piece of land gardened by a group of people. This definition includes gardens dedicated to ornamentals or edibles in rural, suburban and urban communities with the goal of producing food or simply fostering community. "The purpose is for people to grow vegetables, fruit or flowers in a shared space," says Kuhns. "They also share some of the labour and tools and do certain projects together as a group."Community vs. allotment gardensThere is often confusion between the definition of a community versus an allotment garden. While there is some overlap, strictly speaking, an allotment garden is a series of individual plots for which gardeners pay a fee. These gardens are often organized by the municipal government and there may not be any interaction between gardeners. But in community gardens, says Kuhns, "building community is key." While gardeners may work individually delineated plots, they all participate in the running of the garden and often share some of the work. For example, says Kuhns, "many community gardens will have common plots that all gardeners work on, with the produce being donated to food programs."Page 1 of 2 2 Community gardening: What's it for?While the tangible benefits of a community garden may be its fruits and vegetables, the intangibles are perhaps even more valuable. "In a community garden people work together," says Kuhns. "Different ages and cultures mix." The AGCA lists a number of benefits that result from community gardening:• Better quality of life for those involved• Improved neighbourhood and community development• Neighbourhood beautification• Provision of nutritious and budget-friendly food• Conservation of resources• Preservation of green space• Opportunities for cross-generational and cross-cultural connections"Community gardeners also celebrate together," says Kuhns. "The harvest, friendships, helping each other out – their beautiful place."Community gardens: How to get involvedThere are two ways to get involved in a community garden: join an existing one, or create one yourself.To find an existing community garden, Kuhns suggests the following steps:• Go to a local community garden and start talking to people• Look for announcements of community garden groups holding meetings• Call your councillor or city recreation departmentThe AGCA also offers a searchable databases of community gardens in the U.S. and Canada, and many cities have community gardening information available online.If there is no existing community garden near your home, or if you're aware of a neighbourhood space that would be the perfect location for a new community project, you may want to start a new community garden, "a long, but rewarding process," says Kuhns, who suggests starting – where else? – in the community, by organizing a meeting of interested people from your neighbourhood. Kuhns also recommends the following steps:• Find a potential site. Space need not be an issue – community gardens come in all shapes and sizes – but you will need sunlight and access to water.• Contact your city councillor. He or she can make things happen and give you access to municipal resources: you might get free soil testing, digging, topsoil and compost, for instance.• Do lots of outreach work, especially with members of the potential garden's neighbourhood.Community gardens are for everyoneEven if you enjoy gardening independently on your own land you can still get involved in a community garden. The human interactions that take place are "something you unfortunately see all too rarely," says Kuhns. "A community garden is a special place where people work together to make something big and beautiful."Page 2 of 2- Credit
- Kat Tancock
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Grow a pond in a pot Grow a pond in a pot
Grow a pond in a pot ofChapter 1 Making a water garden doesn't have to require an engineering degree, a backhoe and lots of space. With a large watertight container and a minimum of six hours of sun, you can nurture a small collection of aquatics in a tiny townhouse garden, on a patio or even on a balcony. Best of all, you'll be able to watch the sunlight sparkle on the surface of your pond in a pot with just a small amount of set-up time.Putting it together• Place the empty mini-pond in its intended spot – once filled with water, it will be heavy and awkward to move. (A note to high-rise gardeners: just four litres of water weighs about four kilograms. Check that your balcony can support the weight.) Level container.• Fill with water and let the container sit for one or two days to allow water to warm to ambient temperature.• Submerge marginal plants to bottom of container; if necessary, place a brick or two on the bottom to raise potted water plants to correct level. Cover soil surface of each pot with a layer of coarse or pea gravel to keep soil in place.• Add floating plants. Care• Water may turn cloudy from algae growth a couple of weeks after set-up but usually clears after another week or two once the ecosystem of plants, water and sunlight balances.• When new growth commences, feed with a fertilizer formulated for water plants as directed.• West Nile virus, transmitted to humans via a bite from an infected mosquito, is an issue in some areas. Disturb the water surface every few days to discourage them from hatching or wash away larvae by periodically overfilling the container. Pots with a 70 litre capacity or more will support a goldfish or two, which eat mosquito larvae. Mosquito dunks, a larvicide containing BTi (Bacillus thuringensis israelensis) are legal in the U.S. but restricted in Canada; check with your provincial Ministry of Agriculture for regulations.The containerChoose a container that's at least 50 centimetres deep, 60 centimetres wide and holds a minimum of 20 litres; between 50 and 80 litres is ideal. A dark-coloured interior discourages algae and helps disguise the organisms when present. It also gives the illusion of greater depth.The plantsA pond in a pot usually includes floating plants, as well as marginal , or emergent, aquatics in terracotta pots or plastic baskets – the container is submerged, while the plants rise above water level.• Aim for contrasting textures and varying heights. One tall, spiky plant, such as arrowhead (Sagittaria spp.), dwarf papyrus (Cyperus prolifer) or corkscrew rush (Juncus effusus), with lowergrowing floating plants, such as water hyacinth (Eichhornia crassipes) or water lettuce (Pistia stratiotes), makes a pleasing composition in a small container. If your heart desires a water lily, select a dwarf variety and plant it solo – one specimen will soon cover the surface with its round, flat leaves.• To control algae, most experts recommend that two-thirds to three-quarters of the water surface be covered by plants.- Credit
- Beckie Fox
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Sumptuous strawberries Sumptuous strawberries
Sumptuous strawberries ofSummer strawberries Juicy and sweet, strawberries are the first garden fruit crop of the year. In June, strawberry festivals are celebrated across the country; people flock to pick-your-own farms and leave laden with baskets of luscious red berries to enjoy with cream, or in shortcakes, pies, jams and jellies. Rich in potassium and vitamin C, strawberries are as good for you as they are delicious, and have disease-fighting phytochemicals, such as flavonoids and ellagic acid.The garden strawberry (Fragaria x ananassa) is easy to grow—even a small patch will produce a good crop of delicious berries. And by growing your own organically, you can avoid heavy concentrations of pesticides, often found in store-bought varieties.Of the three types of strawberries available (everbearers, Junebearers and dayneutrals), everbearers produce crops in both spring and fall, but the fruit is smaller and less flavourful than that of the other two, which are the focus of this article.Not surprisingly, Junebearers yield a single large crop of berries in June. They produce numerous runners (long stems that grow more strawberry plants at their ends), which means extra work for the gardener, who has to continually remove them. As well, they don't produce fruit in their first year.Dayneutrals yield berries throughout summer, even in their first year. They also have fewer runners, so they're easier to tend. Since dayneutrals flower throughout the warm months, those growing in areas where late spring frosts are a problem will still bear fruit later in the season, but this means a greater possibility of botrytis fruit rot and tarnished plant bugs.PlantingPlant strawberries in spring when the deciduous trees start to leaf out. Choose a sunny, fast-draining location with good air circulation and protection from strong winds; avoid low-lying areas where frost damage to flowers is likely to occur. If the future site has perennial weeds, such as bindweed and quack grass, start preparing the patch the fall before to ensure all weed roots and underground shoots are removed.There are three basic methods used to grow strawberries; choose the one that will best suit you. Within the planting site, mix five to 7.5 centimetres of compost into the soil, then sprinkle a balanced organic fertilizer over the surface and work it into the ground. Meanwhile, soak the roots of the plants in water for one hour before putting them into the ground, and keep them damp and cool while planting. Trim off any dead leaves, broken roots, flowers and flower buds. Planting strawberries Planting strawberriesDig a hole 12 to 18 centimetres wide and as deep as the roots are long. As you place the plant in the hole, point the roots downward and fan them out in all directions. (Proper positioning of the crown—the solid area that bears the leaves above and the roots below—is essential for plant survival.) As you fill in the hole, make sure the roots and the midpoint of the crown are covered with soil and the top part of the crown with the leaves is just above soil level. Press down firmly around the roots and water well. After watering, check the crown and reposition, if necessary.Use mulch to control weeds, retain moisture, keep the soil cool and the berries off the ground. After planting, add a five- to 7.5-centimetre layer of straw, old hay or leaf mould, nestling the mulch around the plants. For the first season only, remove the flowers of Junebearers as soon as they appear and those of dayneutrals until July 1 to direct the plants' energies into forming good root systems. HarvestingFruit sets three to five weeks after blossoming; for best flavour, harvest when fully ripe. Pick every couple of days so the berries won't spoil, ideally in the morning when the fruit is cool—they should keep longer. Pinch off, leaving a green cap and a bit of stem attached to each strawberry to help protect it from damage. Refrigerate unwashed berries immediately and use within a couple of days (note, however, that berries stored at room temperature keep their flavour better).Replenishing the patchStrawberry plants produce fewer and smaller berries with age; renew beds every three years or so. It's best to start the bed in a new location to reduce problems with disease. You can buy new plants, which gives you the advantage of starting out with disease-free stock, or you can create a new patch with runners from the original plants.To do so, make sure the plantlets that form at the ends of the runners have contact with the earth. Once the daughter plant has rooted, transplant it to the new site; water well and mulch. Or, for more vigorous plants that will produce a better crop the following year, let the plantlets root into 7.5-centimetre, soil-filled pots buried in the ground up to their rims.Once rooted, cut the runner and move the daughter plant to a new location. Make sure all transplanting is done by mid- to late August (depending on length of season) so the plantlets develop a good root system, which they will need to survive the winter.Tips for top strawberries• Keep plants well weeded and properly spaced for good air circulation; cultivate shallowly to avoid damaging roots.• Regularly check soil under the mulch; water when surface is dry. Strawberries need 2.5 centimetres of water a week, or fruit will be small and dry. After irrigating, make sure the water has soaked deeply into the soil, as it may take some time for it to penetrate the mulch.• Side-dress with compost or a balanced organic fertilizer when plants begin to flower and again midway through growing season.• Except in coastal British Columbia, strawberries need winter protection. After the ground has frozen but before temperatures drop to –6°C, cover plants with a layer of straw, old hay, evergreen boughs or dead leaves, 10 to 15 centimetres thick, depending on severity of winters in your area.• In early spring, when trees start to leaf out, rake back mulch around strawberry plants, work in 2.5 to five centimetres of compost, fertilize and replace mulch.• Strawberry flowers can be damaged or killed by frost, reducing or eliminating fruit production. When frost threatens, protect plants with an additional layer of straw or old blankets. Pests and disease Pests and diseaseStrawberries are susceptible to a number of pests and diseases. Here are some ways to reduce potential problems without resorting to pesticides:• Buy disease-free plants from a reputable nursery.• Do not plant where peppers, eggplants, tomatoes, potatoes or raspberries have been grown over the past three to four years.• Plant in well-draining soil.• Regularly remove and dispose of any rotting fruit without touching leaves or other fruit.• Water plants in the middle of the day so their leaves will dry quickly. Pest: BirdsDescription: Peck holes in berries or eat entire fruitSolution: Cover patch with netting with openings no bigger than 6 mm; suspend over plants with stakes and secure edges into the groundDisease: Black root rot Description: Fungal disease; roots turn dark brownSolution: Avoid heavy, poorly drained soilDisease: Botrytis fruit rot or grey mouldDescription: Fungal disease (appears mainly during long, wet periods); fruit turns brown and dries up on stems; develops soft, light brown areas and becomes covered with a grey dust—then rotsSolution: Follow cultivation practices as outlinedDisease: Leaf scorchDescription: Fungal disease; leaves have purple blotches that turn brown in centre; leaf edges dry up and look burntSolution: Follow cultivation practices as outlinedDisease: Leaf spotDescription: Fungal disease; leaves have small, round, purple spots that develop grey or light brown centres.Solution: Follow cultivation practices as outlinedDisease: Leather rotDescription: Darkened spot on berry spreads until entire fruit becomes brown, leathery and rough. Confirm by cutting through several berries, looking for marked darkening; infected fruit has unpleasant smell and taste. Mild infections can go unnoticed, but a single infected berry can ruin a batch of preservesSolution: Follow cultivation practices as outlinedDisease: Powdery mildewDescription: White patches of fungus on lower leaf surface cause edges to roll up; leaves eventually dieSolution: Follow cultivation practices as outlinedDisease: Red steleDescription: Fungal disease aggravated by cool, wet soil; red core in roots; root function is seriously affected, resulting in stunting and wilting of plantSolution: Follow cultivation practices as outlinedPest: SlugsDescription: Eat holes in berries at night; look for their slimy trailsSolution: Clear up yard and garden debris in areas that provide daytime hiding places. Place boards throughout patch and daily remove any slugs that accumulate under them; hand-pick at nightPest: Strawberry bud or clipper weevilDescription: Dark red beetles, 2 to 3 mm long with long snouts, cut blossom stems causing them to wilt, drop off or hang by a threadSolution: Hand-pick; control weedsPest: Tarnished plant bugDescription: Brown, 6-mm long adults and green nymphs suck on stem tips, buds and fruits, injecting toxin that produces nubby, deformed berry with clump of seeds at the endSolution: Hand-pick insectsDisease: Verticillium wilt Description: Outer leaves wilt, turn red with upturned margin; stems develop black areasSolution: Follow cultivation practices as outlined Strawberry plant varieties Strawberry plant varieties Planting systems Courtesy of Mar Murube/Three in a Box- Credit
- Heather Apple
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Edibles in pots Edibles in pots
Edibles in pots ofContainer vegetables Nothing tastes quite as good as homegrown vegetables picked fresh from your garden. But not everyone has the space or time for a big garden. An increasing number of people living in townhouses, condos and apartments, as well as those who don't have a lot of leisure time, have discovered how to enjoy this summertime delight by growing vegetables in containers.1. Choosing the plants: Some tried and true vegetables suitable for containers include tomatoes, sweet or hot peppers and eggplants. No matter what you decide to grow, it's a good idea to look for varieties that include names like bush, dwarf or compact. These smaller types will perform well in pots.2. The right container: The bigger the pot the better, bearing in mind what you can lift or have room for. Before choosing, think about the plant's size when full-grown. And be sure the pot has drainage holes. There are many types of containers available to choose from, including terra cotta, plastic, resin or ceramic. 3. The proper soil mix: Use potting soil, never a topsoil or garden soil, which becomes compacted so much your plants won’t be able to breathe. Potting soil, on the other hand, is lighter, airier and allows excess water to escape so roots don't become waterlogged. 4. The right location: Vegetables need at least six hours of sun a day.5. Care and harvest: Vegetables also need regular watering. Check your plants by testing the surface of the soil to see if it's dry. You may find they need watering once a day, or more, especially as roots grow, the fruit develops and summer days become hotter. Terra cotta pots wick moisture from the soil more than other materials, so water these more often. Although plants should be kept consistently moist, don't overwater them.6. Keep a watch on the weather: Tomatoes, peppers and eggplants don't like the cold and won't tolerate even a light frost. Wait to plant until all danger of frost is over, and use frost protective materials when a late snap frost threatens. Certain other crops, such as lettuce and cabbage, enjoy the cold and can be started outside in April.7. Pests: Watch for pests throughout the growing season—potted plants are just as susceptible to pests as those grown in the ground.8. Plant food: When fertilizing, use plant food specifically formulated for vegetables.- Credit
- Karen Hall
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Grow your own herb garden Grow your own herb garden
Grow your own herb garden ofTantalize your taste buds with fresh herbs You don't need a garden plot to keep yourself supplied with fresh herbs all summer long. A sunny location, some soil, pots and a bit of care can turn a balcony, staircase, deck, patio or window into a private produce department. While mint and rosemary are best grown in individual containers, you can pack a smorgasbord of various herbs into a window box. Whether you're new to gardening or a seasoned pro, these tasty, but easy-to-grow, flavour-filled herbs will have you hooked on fresh.BasilThis tender annual can't tolerate cold, so plant only after the threat of frost is over. Place in full sun in rich, moist soil. Encourage new, bushy growth by pinching back the plant to a pair of branching stems. Because basil is most flavorful before the flowers bloom, pinch them out before they bloom and plant a succession to ensure an ongoing harvest. Pick the leaves immediately before using.Basil has a hint of licorice and is a classic choice with tomatoes and in Mediterranean dishes. Sweet basil is the most common, while the less sweet, purple-leaved variety adds colour to your favourite dishes. If you have room, try planting lemon, cinnamon or clove basil, which smell like their names.Dried basil has very little flavour, so use fresh or make pesto, then freeze.DillThis feathery, fern-like herb is actually a hardy annual and acts as a biannual in some climates.Dill is tall, so plant it behind shorter herbs. It thrives in sun, in rich, loose soil and can be picked at any time — just pinch out the leaves. While the leaves are most flavourful before the flowerheads go to seed, the seeds themselves are coveted for pickling. If you want to use the leaves, deadhead throughout the summer. If you want the seeds, allow the plant to flower and set seeds; leave these until they've dried out and turned brown. Vegetable soups, green salads, chicken and fish pair perfectly with dill's bright, lemony undertones. RosemaryThis tender perennial thrives in the heat of a Canadian summer, but should head indoors to a sunny window come autumn. Because rosemary needs good drainage, a terra cotta pot is ideal. Unlike most herbs, rosemary likes to dry out between waterings. To encourage growth, snip the ends often. This astringent herb is perfect for roasted potatoes, lamb or in a mix of herbs with grilled chicken.MintVersatile but invasive, give mint its own pot. Mint will have you tearing your hair out along with its roots if you decide to plant it directly into your garden.Whether you opt for mild spearmint or stronger peppermint, full sun and moist soil are all that's required. This low-maintenance plant grows quickly and can be picked at any time. Just pinch off as many leaves as you need.Fresh leaves make a refreshing tea and jazz up all kinds of warm weather drinks — from mint juleps to lemonade. Mint also lends authenticity to Middle Eastern dishes like tabouli.- Credit
- Charmian Christie
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Big Ideas for a Small Courtyard Garden Big Ideas for a Small Courtyard Garden
Big Ideas for a Small Courtyard Garden ofCreating a front garden When Karin and Stan Smith first moved into their 75-year-old Point Grey home back in 2002, what they got was a house with character in need of renovation and a tired garden sloping from the sidewalk down to the front steps. Still, the Smiths were grateful to find any property in Vancouver's fashionable Westside - even with Karin's connections as a realtor - and once the home renovations had been completed, they focused their attention on creating a front garden to complement their revitalized residence.Karin knew from the outset what she wanted, as she herself wished "more homeowners would forget the front lawn and do something far more architecturally interesting with their gardens." Taking her own advice, she planned for an intimate courtyard, year-round interest and, above all, a selection of plants emphasizing architectural form over flowers. However, one of the first challenges she faced was dealing with the extreme slope and resulting below-grade bleak view of the tires of passing vehicles and the legs of passersby. As well, sunlight is filtered through the dense canopy of the mature elms that line the street, creating various degrees of shade.Acting as her own general contractor, Karin first hired local landscape architect Donna Chomi-chuk - herself an avid gardener - to provide the structure and technical expertise necessary to deal with the hardscaping and grade changes. Donna's initial design proposal addressed the issue of the slope while being mindful of Karin's budget. It featured a central concrete wall faced in basalt stone, with the balance of the structure composed of less expensive concrete block, which would eventually be covered in plants. After some fine tuning, Karin brought in the subcontractors to begin building her garden. The hardscaping proper comprises a garden wall, a pathway of tumbled Roman pavers, a gravel courtyard, and various architectural pieces, including a sundial and the plinth that supports it. Once the bones of the garden were in place, Karin selected plants to complement the hardscaping in consultation with Donna and Kirstin Orr of Artemisia Garden Design. The resulting garden, although small, is incredibly diverse, mostly attributable to Karin's exposure to European gardens; she noticed that "with smaller homes and lots, people make the most of what they have."Image: This sundial and the plinth it sits on are just two of several architectural pieces in the garden. Plant ideas Given the Smiths' demanding work schedules (Stan is a business consultant in the travel and leisure industry), it's no coincidence that their garden was designed for low maintenance. Karin occasionally finds the time to rearrange plantings or do some light pruning - including cutting back the roses and hydrangeas in spring - while Stan, who is happy to help out when asked, really prefers to just sit back and enjoy the view. A twice-yearly major cleanup is done with the assistance of hired help, which is more than sufficient, says Karin, despite the opinions of many novice gardeners who have the misconception that "gardens with many plants are very time-consuming." But that doesn't mean their landscape remains unchanged. Says Karin: "Living in Vancouver is a constant inspiration." And judging by the frequent glances of neighbours and passersby, it appears the Smiths' intricate courtyard provides some inspiration of its own.Garden factsSize -14 x 19 m (front garden)Orientation southConditions dappled to full shadeGrowing season year-roundGarden focus structured hardscaping, white blooms, architectural plant forms Zone 8While the garden wall is Karin's favourite garden feature for its seasonal beauty ("I love to look out at it from the house. In winter, I can see the stone and inserts from my old planter, and in summer, it's a mass of clematis"), it also accomplishes three purposes: it accommodates a major grade change, provides some degree of privacy and creates an inner courtyard. Running approximately two-thirds of the property's width, the central portion is built slightly higher and is ornately faced with basalt stone and shards from a broken decorative pot.The wall is adorned with a number of vines, including the spring-blooming white-flowered chocolate vine and Himalayan clematis, complemented by a pair of Japanese hydrangea vines (Schizophragma hydrangeoides) on the east side.Edged in pavers, the inner courtyard area is inset with large pieces of bluestone slate; the remaining surface is filled with "root beer" pebble. Strategically placed specimen trees include the 'Koto-no-ito' Japanese maple (Acer palmatum 'Koto-no-ito', shown left, among white Siberian irises), an 'Eddie's White Wonder' dogwood just inside the garden wall, a Japanese stewartia on the eastern flank and three fragrant snowbells that anchor the west side of the courtyard. A selection of yews - upright ('Hicksii' and 'Hillii') and spreading ('Repandens') - are used to screen portions of the garden or provide an evergreen backdrop, as do several broadleaf evergreen shrubs, including 'Lolita' Portuguese laurel and waxleaf privet (Ligustrum japonicum 'Texanum'). Image: Karin took her own advice, wishing that more homeowners would "forget about the front lawn and do something far more architecturally interesting with their gardens" Karin's burgundy and silver plants Filling out the mid-height portions of the beds are 'Aztec Pearl' Mexican orange blossom, lily-of-the-valley bush (Pieris japonica) and Viburnum x burkwoodii. Used extensively throughout the garden - due in large measure to the sweet scent it emits in mid-winter - is the evergreen shrub sweet box (Sarcococca hookeriana var. humilis, shown opposite, to the right of the plinth).Combo actSilver-leafed plants are a common foil in white gardens and are prized as much for their unique textures as they are for the foliar contrast they provide. In Karin Smith's Point Grey landscape, these silver specimens are liberally dispersed throughout the garden among perennials featuring burgundy blooms or foliage. This eye-catching trio of white blooms, silver leaves and burgundy highlights breaks with the traditional pairing of white flowers with green or silver foliage. Here are just a few of the numerous burgundy and silver plants Karin is experimenting with in her garden:'Black Barlow' granny's bonnet (Aquilegia vulgaris var. stellata 'Black Barlow' Barlow Series) Blooms May to June. Zone 2'Powis Castle' wormwood (Artemisia 'Powis Castle' syn. A. arborescens 'Brass Band') Vigorous, finely cut silver foliage makes this sub-shrub a universal blending plant. Zone 6'Chocolate' boneset (Eupatorium rugosum 'Chocolate') Blooms August to September. Zone 5'Obsidian' coral flower (Heuchera 'Obsidian') Blooms June to July. Zone 4 x Heucherella 'Burnished Bronze' Blooms May to July. Zone 4Carte blancheKarin Smith didn't set out to create a white garden. While she admits her garden tastes were influenced by her time spent in England, she didn't actually have the opportunity to visit the famous white garden at Sissinghurst. What she did glean from English gardeners, however, was the importance of well-structured hardscaping, plant texture and the fact that white flowers could be incorporated with minimal distraction - essentially, a refined form of landscaping that Karin refers to as "exterior design." With that in mind, here is just a sampling of the white-blooming plants featured in Karin's garden.Trees'Eddie's White Wonder' dogwood (Cornus 'Eddie's White Wonder') Blooms in May. Zone 5Japanese stewartia (Stewartia pseudocamellia) Blooms midsummer. Zone 5Fragrant snowbell (Styrax obassia) Blooms early summer. Zone 5Shrubs'Aztec Pearl' Mexican orange blossom (Choisya 'Aztec Pearl') Blooms in spring and late summer. Zone 8'Lolita' Portuguese laurel (Prunus lusitanica 'Lolita') Blooms in early summer. Zone 7'Blanc Double de Coubert' rugosa rose (Rosa rugosa 'Blanc Double de Coubert') Blooms from spring through to fall. Zone 3PerennialsWood anemone (Anemone nemorosa) Blooms March to April. Zone 4'Shaggy' masterwort (Astrantia major ssp. involucrata 'Shaggy' syn. 'Margery Fish') Blooms June to August. Zone 4White bleeding heart (Dicentra spectabilis 'Alba') Blooms May to June. Zone 3White Siberian iris (Iris sibirica 'Alba') Blooms May to June. Zone 3Great white fleeceflower (Persicaria polymorpha) Blooms July to September. Zone 3'David' garden phlox (Phlox paniculata 'David') Blooms July to September. Zone 3Image: A shallow bed runs the length of the wall streetside, ending where the offset walk begins its gentle, curved descent toward the house. The hedges to the right of the 'Koto-no-ito' Japanese maple are 'Lolita' Portuguese laurel.- Credit
- Michael K. Lascelle
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Water-loving native plants Water-loving native plants
Water-loving native plants ofRain Gardens Do you have a wet or poorly draining part of your yard that has defeated your gardening efforts? Before you consider expensive drainage projects, try a different approach: embrace your soggy soil by choosing plants that thrive in such conditions.Many commonly grown plants don't like to have waterlogged roots for long periods of time, but those that are native to wetland areas have acclimatized to grow and thrive with wet feet (see "Good Swimmers" list below). Additionally, a soggy site in the garden can host beneficial wildlife such as dragonflies, frogs and toads, and butterflies.There are many moisture-loving plants to choose from, ranging from trees and shrubs to grasslike sedges and ferns to attractive perennials. Best of all, with the surge of interest in native-plant gardening, these varieties are now easier to find at nurseries and garden centres.Rain gardensConsider the benefits of creating a rain garden where wetland plants in low-lying areas (shallow regions where water pools because of poor drainage) collect runoff from roofs and driveways that would normally go into storm sewers. Instead, the water is absorbed into the soil gradually, while good drainage is still ensured around the house and yard. A rain garden mimics the natural hydrological cycle in which rainwater is used and cleansed of pollutants by plants, and is then naturally filtered as it percolates into the ground to replenish the water table.For an excellent fact sheet, visit www.cmhc-schl.gc.ca/en/co/maho/la/la_005.cfm. Plant suggestions can be found at www.bbg.org/gar2/topics/design/2004sp_raingardens.html.Good swimmers:Black alder (Alnus glutinosa) full sun to part shade, Zone 3 Goatsbeard (Aruncus dioicus) full sun to part shade, Zone 4 Swamp milkweed (Asclepias incarnata) full sun, Zone 3 Lady fern (Athyrium filix-femina) part to full shade, Zone 4 River birch (Betula nigra) full sun to part shade, Zone 4 Marsh marigold (Caltha palustris) full sun to part shade, Zone 3Quamash (Camassia quamash) full sun to part shade, Zone 3Palm sedge (Carex muskingumensis) full sun to full shade, Zone 4 Buttonbush (Cephalanthus occidentalis) full sun to part shade, Zone 4White turtlehead (Chelone glabra) part shade, Zone 3Summersweet (Clethra alnifolia) full sun to part shade, Zone 4Red osier dogwood (Cornus sericea) full sun to part shade, Zone 3Joe Pye weed (Eupatorium fistulosum) full sun to part shade, Zone 4Water avens (Geum rivale) part shade, Zone 4Winterberry (Ilex verticillata) full sun to part shade, Zone 3Spice bush (Lindera benzoin) full sun to part shade, Zone 4Cardinal flower (Lobelia cardinalis) full sun to part shade, Zone 3Blue lobelia (L. siphilitica) full sun to part shade, Zone 3Bee balm (Monarda didyma) full sun to part shade, Zone 4Cinnamon fern (Osmunda cinnamomea) part to full shade, Zone 3Royal fern (O. regalis) part to full shade, Zone 3Dwarf Arctic, willow (Salix purpurea 'Nana') full sun, Zone 4American elder (Sambucus canadensis) full sun to part shade, Zone 3Blue vervain (Verbena hastata) full sun, Zone 3Arrowwood (Viburnum dentatum) full sun to part shade, Zone 2ResourcesA good book that includes a source list for native plants by region is 100 Easy-to-Grow Native Plants for Canadian Gardens by Lorraine Johnson (updated edition, Whitecap, 2005), 160 pages, softcover, $24.95.- Credit
- Yvonne Cunnington
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Brunnera: A star plant for shade Brunnera: A star plant for shade
Brunnera: A star plant for shade ofHow to care for a brunnera Handsome and undemanding, Brunnera macrophylla (syn. Anchusa myosotidiflora) bears sprays of azure blue or white flowers from early spring to late May. This well-behaved, versatile perennial thrives in moist, humusy soils and under and around shrubs.The silver- or white-accented heart-shaped leaves of many new cultivars brighten woodland shadows. Unlike older varieties, which are prone to leaf scorching, newer ones, such as 'Jack Frost', can tolerate direct sun in the morning or late afternoon. Originally classified as Anchusa, perennial brunnera - also known as false, perennial or great forget-me-not-is also unflatteringly called Siberian bugloss, a name that comes from the Greek words for ox's tongue, referring to its oval-shaped, rough-textured leaf. The plant was first collected during the Caucasian Expedition of Russian Count Apollos Mussin-Pushkin in 1800. Zones 2 to 3.Care checklist- Brunnera is happiest in a shady, cool, consistently moist woodland setting; avoid hot, dry conditions - Prefers well-drained, rich, humusy soil; tolerates other soils if it's kept cool and moist - Generally well behaved but may self-seed; propagate mature plants every five to 10 years by root division in the fall; newer cultivars with fancy silver foliage are challenging to propagatePerfect partnersVersatile brunnera complements a host of shade-loving perennials. Brunnera has many uses and combines well with other shade-loving plants. Its shimmery silver foliage looks attractive reflected in a still pond and brightens any gloomy spot, even beneath a hemlock. Along the edge of a border or woodland stream, brunnera is a good accent plant; used en masse it makes an ideal groundcover. It's also spectacular when placed in front of larger perennials such as 'Krossa Regal' hosta, as it retains its colourful foliage, even after the first frosts have turned the hosta leaves to mush. In the mildest Canadian climates, some brunneras keep their evergreen or semi-evergreen foliage throughout the winterHart's tongue fern (Asplenium scolopendrium syn. Phyllitis scolopendrium) HEIGHT 30 to 40 cm SPREAD 30 to 45 cm DESCRIPTION wide, leathery green, strap-shaped fronds; clump-forming, slow-growing DESIGN ADVANTAGE its sturdy, luxuriant, shiny, dark green fronds contrast well with the softer heart-shaped leaves of brunnera Zone 4'Merlin' purple barrenwort (Epimedium x youngianum ‘Merlin') HEIGHT 20 to 30 cm SPREAD 30 to 45 cm DESCRIPTION semi-evergreen; new foliage flushed with bronze; bushy, clump-forming, slow-growing, long-lived DESIGN ADVANTAGE delicate sprays of dusky mauve flowers bloom at the same time as brunnera in mid- to late spring; excellent edger or groundcover Zone 4'Iron Butterfly' foam flower (Tiarella 'Iron Butterfly') HEIGHT 20 to 40 cm SPREAD 25 to 30 cm DESCRIPTION clump-forming hybrid with deeply cut, dark green leaves with attractive black markings; small, bottle-brush, white flowers held atop wiry stems DESIGN ADVANTAGE its darkly accented cut-leaf foliage makes a handsome counterpoint to the silvery markings of many brunnera cultivars Zone 4'Miyazaki' Japanese toad lily (Tricyrtis hirta 'Miyazaki') HEIGHT & SPREAD 45 to 60 cm DESCRIPTION small, unusual, orchid-like, purple-blotched white flowers in late summer and early fall; clump-forming DESIGN ADVANTAGE this upright late-bloomer complements low-mounding, spring-flowering brunnera; plant where its flowers can be seen up close Zone 4 Plant varieties Plant varietiesName: BRUNNERA MACROPHYLLA 'Betty Bowring' (syn. 'Alba') ZONE 3Height x Width: 45 to 60 cm x 60 cmExposure: Part to full shade Description: Small white flowers; dark green foliage Comments: Dark foliage makes it more sun-tolerant than other cultivarsName: 'DAWSON'S WHITE' ZONE 2Height x Width: 30 to 40 cm x 30 to 45 cmExposure: Part to full shade Description: Azure blue flowers; variable white variegated foliage with creamy white marginsComments: Prune out plain green reversions; slow-growing; resistant to foliage browningName: 'HADSPEN CREAM' ZONE 2Height x Width: 30 to 40 cm x 30 to 45 cmExposure: Part to full shade; protect from direct sun Description: Bright blue flowers; dark green foliage with broad cream to yellow marginsComments: Foliage remains attractive all season; slug-resistant Name: 'JACK FROST' ZONE 2 Height x Width: 30 to 45 cm x 30 to 45 cm Exposure: Part to full shade; tolerates some direct sun Description: Blue flowers; frosted foliage with silvery overlay and greenish veins have crackly lookComments: Provide evenly moist soil to optimize wow factorName: 'LANGTREES' (syn. 'Aluminum Spot') ZONE 2Height x Width: 30 to 45 cm x 30 to 45 cmExposure: Part to full shade; protect from direct, midday sunDescription: Tiny blue forget-me-not blooms; emerald green foliage mottled with silver-grey; markings more subtle than other cultivarsComments: None Name: 'LOOKING GLASS' ZONE 3Height x Width: 30 to 40 cm x 30 to 45 cmExposure: Part to full shade Description: Bright blue flowers; silver-frosted, heart-shaped leavesComments: Sport of 'Jack Frost'; a silver jewel for shade Name: 'SILVER WINGS' ZONE 3Height x Width: 30 to 45 cm x 30 to 45 cm Exposure: Part to full shade Description: Tiny masses of blue flowers; marbled foliage with a wispy, silvery overlay Comments: Sport of 'Langtrees'Name: 'VARIEGATA' ZONE 2 Height x Width: 35 to 45 cm x 35 to 45 cmExposure: Part to full shadeDescription: Bright blue blooms; wide, irregular, creamy white margins on grey-green leavesComments: Protect from wind and drought to avoid foliage browning; remove green reversions- Credit
- Anne Marie Van Nest
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Expert tips on container gardening Expert tips on container gardening
Expert tips on container gardening ofWhere to start The word "garden" is being redefined. If it's your sanctuary and the place where, hands in dirt, you commune with nature, it's a garden. This might mean five acres in the country or a tiny urban oasis, the deck off the family room, a balcony in the sky or merely a stunning urn by the front door. Perhaps the fastest-growing area in the gardening world is that of container gardening. At a recent workshop hosted by Plant World, a garden centre in Toronto's west end, and led by senior manager Paul Zammit, a group of garden writers experienced this evolving and increasingly sophisticated art form. As a result, a spiky dracaena surrounded by a couple of geraniums will never again suffice, at least not in my containers. Here's how you can create your own traffic-stopping designs.Prep workBefore creating your masterpiece, Paul Zammit recommends the following:1. Change the potting mix every year. By the time the season is over, all nutrients in the mixture will have been used up. Recycle used potting soil in your compost or work it into existing flower beds.2. First water all plants in their cell packs or store-bought pots.3. Leave five to eight centimetres between the top of the soil and the rim of the container to allow water to slowly penetrate the root system rather than run off the surface.Like meets iike Think about where the container will be placed and select plants that require similar growing conditions (such as full sun or shade, moist or dry soil, sheltered or not), yet have different growth habits and bloom times. For high-traffic areas, consider adding fragrant foliage plants such as lavender, thyme and rosemary.Thrillers, fillers and spillers These three words, coined by garden designer Steve Silk, capture the essence of good container design. In the artful container, anything goes. Foliage only, or a mix of annuals, perennials, shrubs, herbs, summer bulbs, ornamental grasses, small evergreens, vines and tropical plants are all appropriate. It's entirely your choice.Thrillers: the tall, upright, eye-catcher placed either in the centre or off-centre in the container; plant it first. For a tropical look, try taro (Colocasia spp.), elephant's ear (Alocasia esculenta), cannas, papyrus (Cyperus papyrus), banana plants (Musa x paradisiaca ssp. sapientum) or a tall ornamental grass. Fillers: take up mid-ground space without distracting from the thriller. Begonias, lantanas, coleus, salvias, parsley, low-growing grasses and numerous other foliage and flowering plants fall into this category.Spillers: plants that flow over the edges of containers: sweet potato vines (Ipomoea batatas), ivies, trailing geraniums and petunias, Bidens ferulifolia and no doubt many more discoveries you'll make at your local garden centre.Try using roses, a small Japanese maple, an azalea standard or your favourite shrub or evergreen as the star of your container. In the fall, remove perennials, trees and shrubs from containers and plant them in the garden three to six weeks before the ground freezes. Maintenance tips Surprise factorOne of the tricks of great container design is to plant a few specimens that will strut their stuff in August and September just as everything else is starting to look a tad weary. This is where summer bulbs come into their element.Plant bulbs (at the depth recommended on packaging) before adding any other goodies. Then wait for the oohs and aahs as the flowers emerge in mid- to late summer.Five favouritesORIENTAL LILIES midsummer bloomsGLADIOLUS CALLIANTHUS tall, fragrant, white flowers with chocolate brown centres; late summer bloomsPINEAPPLE LILIES (Eucomis spp.) midsummer bloomsTHREE-LEAFED CLOVER (Oxalis regnellii has green foliage, while O. triangularis has dark purple) won't stop blooming until first frostSPIDER LILIES (Hymenocallis cvs.) with their insect-like white flowers; midsummer bloomsPaul's maintenance1. Never use topsoil or garden soil in containers. In general, all planting mixes should be porous and free-draining. Potting soil is your best bet.2. Place a piece of screening over the drainage hole(s) on the inside of pots to keep out insects such as earwigs and slugs.3. If you're a forgetful waterer, add a coir-based product such as SoilSponge to hold in moisture and extend the time between waterings. This particularly applies to containers exposed to hot, direct sunlight and those placed in windy locations.4. Because containers need frequent watering, which leaches nutrients from the root zone, regular fertilizing-preferably with an all-purpose, water-soluble product-is necessary. Follow manufacturer's directions, as more is not necessarily better. If you plant herbs and vegetables along with flowers and foliage plants, use an organic fertilizer, such as fish emulsion.5. Deadhead all flowering plants on a regular basis to promote additional blooms; pinch back foliage plants to encourage bushier, more compact growth. 6. Check containers daily-twice daily during extreme periods of heat. Water thoroughly, but only when soil feels dry to the touch two to three centimetres below the surface. It's best to water in the morning.- Credit
- Carol Cowan
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A garden of natural beauty A garden of natural beauty
A garden of natural beauty ofIn the beginning As with so many things in life, often the best ideas are the ones in plain sight. And that's pretty much the approach Sally Webster took when she and her husband, Alan, first bought their nine-acre property just outside the village of Knowlton, Quebec, seven years ago. What fascinated Sally was the rocky terrain blanketed by moss and the incredible view of Brome Lake backed by Shefford Mountain. The site did not scream out for lawn and perennials, as had her previous cultivated garden, but it did need something to help "turn up the volume." That "something" was André Boisvert, a local gardener with whom Sally had collaborated on past projects. They worked well together and were on the same page when it came to design-though there were never any actual pages involved. "There were no sketches or plans," says Sally. "We both agreed the existing elements of the natural landscape should just carry through the property; I've seen André's results and trusted him completely."A gardener for close to 50 years, Sally was unfazed by the initial steps needed to begin the project, which entailed clearing the young birch trees and weeds covering the property. An existing man-made pond just to the south of the house was a great feature to work with (there are also two smaller ones connected by a stream that were added later). And work with it they did. With the help of Mario Paris at Canadian Pond Products in Knowlton, the one-acre pond had to be emptied because the construction workers needed to drive through it to build the retired couple's house. They also partially lined the pond with felt and heavy plastic at one end, as they were unsure if it was still structurally sound after the disruptions. "We knew if the integrity of the bank had been compromised-especially because of its elevation-it could have done a lot of damage," says Sally. Garden facts:SIZE - 9 acresORIENTATION - north and southCONDITIONS - rocky terrain, rich compost addedGROWING SEASON - April to OctoberGARDEN FOCUS - natural-looking landscaping and native plants; 1-acre pondZONE 5 Enhancing a natural landscape Working with the soul of the property rather than against it, Sally has chosen a variety of mostly "natural-looking," if not native, plants to enhance the pond. "The lady's mantle along its edge looks spectacular in and out of bloom, and of course the maples we planted are just fantastic in the fall," she adds.Sneezeweed, ox-eye daisies and black-eyed Susans were also added throughout the garden because they blended with the wild flora. And the cutleaf stephanandra on the lakeside bank is wonderful for erosion control; it also blooms profusely but is not showy, and mixes in well with the rocks and moss. There are some wonderful grasses, too, on the property, such as Japanese ribbon grass. Although it looks attractive in autumn, Sally always chuckles when she reads how people in other parts of Canada love leaving seed heads for "winter interest.""The seed heads look awful in the winter here because the snow breaks them down; they lie flat on the ground, then blow all over the place-it's not interesting at all!"There is, however, an opportunity to really play with a broad selection of plant material, since one side of the house is in brilliant sunshine, while the other side is in complete shade. "We have pots with begonias, geraniums and ivy, but only close to the house," says Sally, almost in a finger-wagging tone that makes you think she has to consciously stop herself from going beyond her self-imposed borders. "There are some perennials beyond the terrace on the south side, but they look natural-like it just happened, while the north side beyond the terrace is all green." A lawn-free garden The lawn-free garden has one very important quality for Sally and Alan: lack of noise. There are no lawn mowers to disturb the pristine quiet on this hillside property. "We spend our whole life out there in the summer-every meal is eaten on our screened porch, and we love the stillness," says Sally. However, the dearth of grass does not necessarily mean no maintenance. An organic care program often brings Sally to her knees-literally. "The weeds love growing in all the moss; it's the perfect environment," she says resignedly, adding that the river rock on the driveway seems to attract the unwelcome vegetation as much as the moss. Thankfully, she can enlist the help of her friend Wayne, who weeds, deadheads and generally helps maintain the property.As for irrigation, the one-acre pond is a convenient source of water, as is the water collected from the roof in a rain barrel. To keep the pond clean, the Websters add Bacta-Pur, a product containing bacteria that eat the algae along the bottom, a result of leaves and other vegetation accompanying the water flow. Favourite Plants Anna, their German shepherd, is also part of the organic plan: deer never come around to munch on plants when she roams the property. Planting masses of daffodils, which deer and squirrels steer clear of, is also a simple solution, as is using niger (a type of thistle) seed in the finch feeders-unpalatable to these unintended diners.Sally's bond with this property is evident not only in her respect for its natural beauty, but also in her focus and determination as its steward. A storm last fall, for instance, created havoc, with fallen trees and debris strewn across the property. "I hired five people and we worked from 8:30 a.m. to 5 p.m. for three weeks to clear it up. Everything just goes by the board during these times and my friends wonder where I am. I feel badly about that, but I love the land and love working it." Favourite Plants:• Lady's Mantle (Alchemilla mollis)• Hay-Scented Fern ( Dennstaedtia punctiloba)• Sneezeweed ( Helenium autumnale)• Ox-Eye Daisy ( Leucanthemum vulgare syn. Chrysanthemum leucanthemum)• Canada Mayflower ( Maianthemum canadense)• Black-eyed Susan ( Rudbeckia spp.)• Cutleaf Stephanandra ( Stephanandra incisa 'Crispa')• Starflower ( Trientalis borealis )Five for Fighting:Here are a few more plants that help control erosion, as recommended by Canadian Gardening's horticultural editor, Anne Marie Van Nest.• Downy Serviceberry (Amelanchier arborea), Zone 4• Red Osier Dogwood (Cornus sericea), Zone 2• Daylilies (Hemerocallis spp.), Zone 3• Kentucky Bluegrass (Poa pratensis), Zone 3• Smooth Sumac (Rhus glabra), Zone 3- Credit
- Carol-Ann Granatstein
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Easy-care aquatic plants Easy-care aquatic plants
Easy-care aquatic plants ofThe plants The Winner: Mrs. Perry D. Slocum' LotusNelumbo ‘Mrs. Perry D. Slocum'Imagine a lotus with huge, semi-double, 30-centimetre-wide blooms that change colour and you have ‘Mrs. Perry D. Slocum'. Fragrant, peony-like flowers open pink on the first day and magically change to yellow by day three (with a tinge of pink on the underside of each petal), followed by decorative seed pods. This full-size lotus blooms all summer atop round, medium green, saucer-shaped leaves that catch water droplets and turn them into glistening jewels. Its flowers and leaves rise one to 1.25 metres (and spread equally wide) above the water. Plant the tubers of ‘Mrs. Perry D. Slocum' on the bottom of a pond (or in submerged containers) five to 45 centimetres below the water. This regal lotus requires at least five hours of sunlight for optimal growth. Zone 4.Honourable Mentions:• Pickerel WeedPontederia cordataHeight: 60 to 120 cm. Spread: 60 cm. Location: full sun or part shade. Water Depth: 15 cm. Flowers: soft blue spike; June to October. Foliage: glossy, slightly heart-shaped, deep green; plant is late to emerge in spring. Zone 4.• Perry's Baby Red' Hardy Dwarf LilyNymphaea ‘Perry's Baby Red'Height: 45 to 60 cm. Spread: 30 to 100 cm. Location: full sun. Waterdepth: 20 to 37 cm; good for small containers. Flowers: deep red, 7 cm across, slightly fragrant; summer. Foliage: emerges purple, turns green. Zone 3.• Shell Flower a.k.a. Water LettucePistia stratiotesHeight: 25 cm. Spread: 30 cm. Location: full sun to part shade. Water Depth: minimum 10 cm; thrives in water temperatures above 20°C; overwinter indoors. Flowers: small, not showy, white and green; late summer. Foliage: medium green, velvety with fine, silver hairs. Zone: tropical.Runners-Ups: • 'Grandiflorus' Greater SpearwortRanunculus lingua ‘Grandiflorus', Zone 3• Duck Potato Sagittaria latifolia, Zone 5• Dwarf Cattail Typha laxmannii, Zone 4 Where to get them Key: Nelumbo ‘Mrs. Perry D. Slocum': 1, Nymphaea ‘Perry's Baby Red': 2, Pistia stratiotes: 3, Pontederia cordata: 4, Ranunculus lingua ‘Grandiflorus': 5, Sagittaria latifolia: 6, Typha laxmannii: 7.Sources: Burns Water Gardens: 2, 4, 6,7. Centre du Jardin Deux-Montagnes Inc.: 2, 4, 6, 7 Flora Exotica: 1. Greenland Garden Centre: 1. Merlins Water Garden: 3,4,5,6. Moore Water Gardens: 2,3,4,5, 6.Hortico Inc.: 3, 4,5,6,7.Humber Nurseries Ltd. & Butterfly Conservatory: 2, 3.Pacific Ponds & Water Gardens: 1,3,4,5,6,7.Wilson's Greenhouse & Garden Centre:3,4,6,7.- Credit
- Anne Marie Van Nest
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A landscape of native P.E.I. plants A landscape of native P.E.I. plants
A landscape of native P.E.I. plants ofCreating a garden on one acre in P.E.I. Peter and Pat LeGrow never favoured an endless lawn of green, so when they built their home in 1983 in Cornwall, Prince Edward Island, they also committed themselves to creating a garden on their one-acre property. With their sons now grown, Peter, a retired hydrometric surveyor, and Pat, a relief librarian, had more time to devote to their evolving landscape. Fans of native flora, the LeGrows decided to build their garden around the many indigenous trees, shrubs and plants already established on their land. Scattered throughout the property, an abundance of trees such as Canada yew, Eastern white pine, white spruce, Canada fly honeysuckle, beaked filbert, red and white baneberry, tamarack, sheep laurel, staghorn sumac, creeping juniper and red-berried elder all thrive here in their natural habitat. For colour, the couple again relies heavily on native plants, many of which were already growing on the property and some they transplanted themselves. Favourites include purple, spring-blooming, marsh blue violet (Viola cucullata), bluebead lily (Clintonia borealis) and painted trillium (Trillium undulatum), whose white blooms are accented by red veining at the base. Joe Pye weed (Eupatorium maculatum) and goldenrod (Solidago spp.) add vibrant shades of magenta and gold to the landscape.As is true with many gardeners who deal with shady conditions, Peter and Pat have an extensive hosta collection of some 100 varieties. Cultivars range from the giant-leafed 'Sum and Substance' to dwarf ones such as 'Tiny Tot'. There are also intensely coloured cultivars, such as the bright gold 'Sun Power' and the deep blue 'Love Pat'. Numerous variegated types include 'Minuteman' and 'Great Expectations'. The garden's greenery is also enhanced by an abundance of native ferns, such as ostrich (Matteuccia struthiopteris), interrupted (Osmunda claytoniana) and cinnamon fern (O. cinnamomea), whose spore-covered segments turn from green to a golden cinnamon brown when mature.Image at left: A few favourite hostas: 'Sum and Substance', 'Undulata' and 'Royal Standard'The LeGrows don't mind the challenge of the more invasive plants, some of which they've even planted themselves. Pat says their approach is to decide if the plants add value to the garden, then work at keeping them under control or, if this is not possible, get rid of them. For instance, on the southern side of the property is a patch of policeman's helmet (Impatiens glandulifera) -- so named because its blooms resemble the old-fashioned, English bobby's headgear. This plant, also known as touch-me-not because of the propensity of the mature seed capsules to burst when touched, can send seeds spraying up to six metres in all directions. In front of some impatiens grows 'Beautiful Truth' Korean bellflower, which produces a groundcover of shiny, heart-shaped leaves and sends up sweeping sprays of leafy stems topped with white, tubular flowers that are red-spotted on the inside. Although the bellflower can spread like a groundcover, Pat keeps it well contained in this area. She attributes its manageability to the location, which is drier than this plant normally favours.Not one to settle for the ordinary, Pat designed a unique three-by-five-metre checkerboard in the backyard. Built in 1995, it consists of 24 paving stones alternating with 24 planted squares, each 60 by 60 centimetres. Pat selected perennials based on their suitability for growing in a confined space, and trims them as necessary. A trellis draped with American bittersweet and climbing hydrangea provides a handsome backdrop. Checkerboard garden design; native plants in the garden ALL SQUARED UPAbove image: Some of the plants used for the squares of the checkerboard garden (opposite) are blue rug junipers (Juniperus horizontalis) ‘Wiltonii' [1] and ‘Blue Chip' [4] and bird's-nest spruce (Picea abies ‘Nidiformis') [7]. ‘White Nancy' deadnettle (Lamium maculatum) [6] and, appropriately enough, ‘Chequers' [2] fill two squares. Other plants include sedum [3], the handsome ‘Burgundy Glow' carpet bugleweed (Ajuga reptans ‘Burgundy Glow') [5] and golden creeping Jenny (Lysimachia nummularia ‘Aurea') [3].The back garden is bordered by a Brise d'Anjou Jacob's ladder (Polemonium caeruleum 'Blanjou'), Loraine Sunshine false sunflower (Heliopsis helianthoides 'Helhan'), Labrador violet, lilies, blue fescue grass, begonias and native red-leaf rose (Rosa glauca). To the northwest, not far from the house, the LeGrows capitalized on a natural depression in the yard to create a bog garden. It's kept damp by a gravity-fed system wherein water flows from the eavestrough to an underground pipe and into a French drain (a gravel-filled ditch) leading to the bog, which is filled with an assortment of moisture-loving specimens. Beautiful coloration is achieved with chameleon plant (Houttuynia cordata), whose triple-hued leaves are yellow, red and green. Astilbe, yellow-flowered 'The Rocket' ligularia and the yellow-orange blooms of globeflower (Trollius x cultorum) also add a variety of colour. Interesting form is provided by corkscrew rush (Juncus effuses forma spiralis), whose cylindrical, tightly spiralled, green stems unfurl and spread in all directions as they grow.So who is the creative mind behind this unique and varied garden? Peter claims that Pat is the artistic visionary. Pat says she doesn't plan particular colour combinations or groupings, but rather moves things around until the right look is achieved. They both find that the willingness to experiment is crucial because, as Pat says, "Things don't always grow like the gardening books say." Key native plants in their garden:• Red and white baneberry (Actaea rubra, A. pachypoda)• Beaked filbert (Corylus cornuta) • Creeping juniper (Juniperus horizontalis)• Sheep laurel (Kalmia angustifolia)• Tamarack (Larix laricina)• Canada fly honeysuckle (Lonicera canadensis)• White spruce (Picea glauca)• Eastern white pine (Pinus strobus) • Staghorn sumac (Rhus typhina)• Red-berried elder (Sambucus pubens) • Canada yew (Taxus canadensis)GARDEN FACTS:Size: 1 acreOrientation: surrounds the houseConditions: shade, heavy clay, poor drainageGrowing season: April to OctoberGarden focus: native perennials and low maintenance plantsZone: 5bNeed a perennial that behaves? Read here about the worst garden thugs and their more mannered cousins.- Credit
- Heather Séguin
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10 tips for container gardens 10 tips for container gardens
10 tips for container gardens ofTips 1 - 5: Mulch, lift and foliage You have a stunning container and gorgeous plants to go in it. You plant it carefully, stand back to gaze at your new masterpiece and you're . . . well, underwhelmed. Nothing's really wrong, but it doesn't say "Wow!"Here are 10 design tips and tricks to help take your planters from merely pretty to pretty fantastic.1 Mulch matters Pots with a single upright plant—say, a rosemary topiary or a large hosta—leave a great deal of boring soil revealed. A layer of attractive mulch, such as washed river stones, terra-cotta pebbles, glass marbles or sphagnum moss, adds a finishing touch and cuts down on water evaporation. (Remember to keep mulches away from plant stems.)2 Get a lift To add extra height, place a plastic rose collar (used to protect hybrid teas over winter) in the centre of a large container already filled with soil. Fill the centre of the collar with additional soil. Now you have two tiers to plant in. If the collar is visible after planting is complete, camouflage the plastic using a few clumps of moist sphagnum moss.3 Show no soil Plant closely, fully and generously so your containers look gorgeous from the get-go. Gently squeeze root balls into thin, narrow shapes to make room for more plants. Don't worry about the tight quarters: careful watering, quality soil, regular feeding and deadheading will keep your display in top shape.4 More foliage, please Garden designers always sing the praises of contrasting shapes, textures and shades of green found in foliage plants. In containers, use at least one-third foliage plants to set off flowering plants to best advantage.5 Set the stage When grouping different containers, raise a few at the back by placing them on bricks or upside down pots. Not only does this add height to your scene, it improves air circulation, too. Tips 6 - 10: Cheat and be bold! 6 Less is more The fancier, more ornate the container, the simpler the plant palette should be—a grouping of one type in a container can look sophisticated and dramatic. Even simpler: place a massive unplanted container—perhaps glazed Provençal blue or maroon—in a bed of groundcover under a shade tree to inject a punch of colour. Or centre an intricate obelisk (with no vines on it) in a container of low-growing plants to serve as a piece of garden sculpture.7 Be bold The farther away your container is from viewers, the bigger and bolder the flower and leaf forms should be. A mass of dainty bacopa and Swan River daisies in a pot next to your front door is a fuzzy blur when seen from the front sidewalk.8 Cheat a little For a special party, bump up the floral quotient by tucking floral picks (small plastic vials that hold water) filled with stems of gerberas, dahlias or roses into window boxes and other containers.9 Cue the understudies For key containers, keep a few duplicate plants growing in pots elsewhere in the garden. Then, if one or two underperform or meet an untimely end, you can replace them with something identical. (Because you know if you go back to the nursery for a replacement, there will be none left!) 10 Trailers to the back For a softer, more natural look, plant some trailing plants midway back instead of all along the edge. Let a few stems meander around the bases of upright plants before spilling over the edge.- Credit
- Beckie Fox
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Winning window boxes Winning window boxes
Winning window boxes ofCreate a full, lush well-designed window box Even the most accomplished container gardeners are impressed when they encounter a full, lush, well-designed window box. Why? Because anyone who has planted and cared for one knows that a window box presents certain challenges. First, there's that odd shape to deal with. Usually long and narrow, window boxes seem to inhibit even the most daring designers, who inevitably fall back on a row of geraniums or a few cell packs of pansies. Maintenance is another issue: watering without spattering the house, the windows or passersby; deadheading and managing to keep the show going despite a small growing area. These are all hurdles, but surmountable ones. Before buying any plants—or even the container—decide where your window box will be placed. Keep in mind that those sitting on a window ledge will obscure part of the view, more so as the plants fill out. This is desirable if you're trying to obliterate an offending view, but less so if you want to see beyond the box to the rest of your garden. A box mounted below a window is ideal, but requires non-gardening-related skills such as drilling and measuring (see “Mounting Window Boxes,” on next page). Select a location where watering will not damage nearby surfaces (e.g., not above a dining table or wicker chair).Next, choose your container, keeping proportion in mind. A box sitting atop a window ledge should almost fill its length: too short and it will look skimpy. The same goes for a box hanging below a window. If space allows, it could even extend beyond the width of a window for a more generous look. Naturally, the deeper the container, the more space there is for roots to spread out and for water retention, but larger boxes are typically heavier, too. Before installing, determine how much weight your wall and the hanging brackets will tolerate when the soil is fully saturated. Check the packaging with the hanging brackets; sometimes a maximum weight load is provided. Fill one of the boxes with soil, water it well and lift it (or weigh it on a bathroom scale). Then, estimate if you need more than two brackets, or sturdier ones. Look for practical materials that suit the style of your house. Those commonly used include plastic, metal and wood, and each has its merits and drawbacks."Earthy Reds" container (shown above)Container: Brown metal with flared top, embossed with acanthus leaves Dimensions: 45 x 18 cm, 15 cm deep Plants: 3 ‘Wizard Pastel' coleus, 2 red Million Bells (Calibrachoa), 1 leatherleaf sedge (Carex buchananii)Notes: Sun to part shade. Calibrachoa was trimmed back every few weeks to let the box show through. Best in front of a light-coloured wall or window for contrast Choosing the right material for your container Plastic is lightweight and versatile, but not always the most aesthetically pleasing option (dark-coloured plastic can heat up in the sun, which may cause plant roots to cook). However, if a plastic window box is disguised with trailing plants, both problems are solved.Metal is lightweight and attractive but, like plastic, offers little in the way of insulation for plants. The relaxed style of a moss-lined wire basket suits cottages and informal settings. Unfortunately, it can be prone to drying out. Add a sheet of clear plastic between the moss and soil to slow evaporation (punch a few holes in the bottom to allow any excess water to drain away). A moss-lined basket is also relatively lightweight and easy to hang. Long, narrow willow baskets (such as those used to serve bread) are another option. These don't require moss, just a plastic liner to hold soil.Custom-made wooden window boxes can be a costly alternative, but they are certainly beautiful additions to a home's facade. Wood offers good insulating properties, can be made to any size, and can be enhanced with trim, moulding and paint to match your house. For ease of planting in wooden boxes that are permanently mounted below a window, first create your arrangement in a rigid plastic liner, then drop it inside the box. Make sure the top rim of the liner sits level (or slightly below) the top of the box. (A liner also prevents damp soil from coming in contact with the wood.) In winter, fill wooden boxes with arrangements of berried branches and evergreen boughs."Tropical Corals" container Container: Recycled section of tin ceiling with wooden plank bottom, painted glossy whiteDimensions: 45 x 15 cm, 15 cm deep Plants: 1 blue fescue (Festuca glauca), 2 ‘Professor Henkel' fuchsia, 1 ‘Vancouver Centennial' geranium (Pelargonium ‘Vancouver Centennial'), 1 crinkle-leafed rex begonia, 1 fancy-leafed zonal geranium (P. hybrid), 1 trailing red-leafed alternantheraNotes: Sun to part shade. Informal container material suits a rustic cottage or garden shed Care and maintenance; mounting window boxes Care & maintenance- Whatever type of window box you use, make sure excess water will easily drain away. A 90-centimetre-long box needs two or three drainage holes. Place squares of fibreglass screening (the kind sold in screen door and window repair kits) or some other porous material over the holes before filling the box with soil. Do not use pot shards or gravel, which take up valuable space and do nothing to improve the drainage.- Fill container with lightweight potting soil or soilless mix.- Plant closely so your box looks lush and generous right away. Don't be afraid to gently squeeze a root ball to make it fit.- Avoid placing trailing plants close to the front edge. Instead, give them more stability by siting them midway back to let their long stems thread through plants at the front and over the edge. - If you want to encourage a soft-stemmed, upright plant, such as coleus, to spill over the front edge, tip its root ball at an angle when planting so the stems lean forward.- Apply transplanter solution according to manufacturer's directions to get plants off to a fast start. Once you notice new growth, begin fertilizing lightly and frequently: once a week with a water-soluble product designed for flowering plants, diluted to at least half the recommended concentration. (For example, if the label calls for 15 millilitres of fertilizer per two litres of water, use 15 millilitres per four litres or more.) A balanced formula or one with a slightly higher amount of phosphorus (the middle number) is fine. If you're using potting soil that includes time-released fertilizer, you probably won't need to start feeding until midsummer.- Deadhead regularly and ruthlessly. This keeps your display looking tidy and encourages plants to produce more flowers.- If one plant starts to take over (such as English ivy, coleus, New Wave petunias or sweet potato vines), don't be afraid to cut it back.- Check boxes daily to ensure soil is kept consistently moist from top to bottom.Mounting window boxesMost window ledges dip down ever so slightly in front to prevent water from standing on the surface. Before positioning a planted box on a window ledge, you may want to put a couple of stoppers on its bottom front edge to prevent slippage.If you're mounting a window box on a wall, use L-shaped brackets beneath the box rather than trying to attach its back side directly to the wall. Brackets underneath provide more stability and can be decorative. Use wood screws for wooden siding, or drill holes and use a masonry anchor to hold screws in mortar or brick."Porch Boxes" containerContainers: Grey-green plastic with raised corners on bottomDimensions: 66 x 30 cm, 25 cm deepPlants: (not all are visible in photo) ‘Purpurea' tradescantia (Tradescantia pallida ‘Purpurea'), white lantana, blue nemesia, white nemesia, ‘Blue Wave' petunia, ivory Surfinia petunia, white multiflora petunia, ‘Mauve Delight' brachyscome (Brachyscome segmentosa ‘Mauve Delight'), ‘Limelight' licorice vine (Helichrysum petiolare ‘Limelight'), variegated licorice vine (H. p. ‘Variegatum'), ‘Wizard Jade' coleus, variegated English ivy, green English ivy, ‘Victoria Blue' mealycup sage (Salvia farinacea ‘Victoria Blue')Notes: Morning shade/afternoon sun. These deep boxes line the front edge of a railingless front porch. They act as a barrier to prevent people from stepping off into the yew hedge below. To avoid a static, repeating pattern of plants, each box contains similar—but not identical—contents, and at least 10 to 12 plants Foolproof plant combinations Foolproof plant combosThe fancier your window box, the simpler the planting should be. For example, an ornate, embossed metal or terra-cotta box filled with clipped boxwood spheres or spiky blue fescue grass looks understated and elegant.However, most window boxes call for a collection of trailing and upright plants. Depending on the size of the container and restraint of the gardener, usually four or five types of plants offer enough variety (more and the collection loses its focus). Don't rely just on flowers for interest; foliage plants offer an array of textures and leaf shapes, which prevents a mix of plants from looking too busy.Aim for a balanced—not necessarily symmetrical—look. There is no rule that says plants in window boxes need to look like soldiers standing at attention: a long row of red geraniums faced with a long row of trailing lobelia can be boring. If you're using one tall specimen as a focal point, try positioning it one-third in from either end and let shorter ones slope down on either side. Group similar plants together instead of scattering them throughout the box to create a more graphic, dramatic look. Trailing types don't need to be evenly spaced across the front: let random areas of the front of the box peek through.Below are some combinations to try.- For semi-shade pink verbena, white and pink impatiens, tri-coloured sweet potato vine, white bacopa- For shade Japanese painted fern, miniature blue-leafed hosta, asparagus fern and one dramatic caladium- For sun golden creeping Jenny, yellow French marigolds, yellow-and-white variegated coleus, bidens - For sun leatherleaf sedge, gold lantana, creeping zinnia, orange dahlia, red nasturtium - For part shade purple-leafed coral bells, purple trailing sedum, parrot's beak (Lotus berthelotii) - For part to full sun trailing rosemary, culinary sage, chives, flat-leafed parsley, small ornamental kale - For part sun purple heliotrope, yellow trailing snapdragon, white lantana, English ivy, Australian fanflower, pale yellow petunia, blue Nierembergia"Dramatic Monochrome" container (shown above)Container: galvanized metal with raised polka dots on sides Dimensions: 79 x 15 cm, 18 cm deepPlants: 3 ‘Silver Dust' dusty millers (Senecio cineraria ‘Silver Dust'), 1 ‘Red Dragon' fleeceflower (Persicaria microcephala ‘Red Dragon'), 1 echeveria, 1 purple-leafed trailing sedum (Sedum sieboldii cvs.), 3 pheasant aloe (Aloe variegata), 1 trailing red-leafed alternantheraNotes: Part shade. Ideal for a window on a contemporary house or placed down the centre of a long, rectangular, glass, outdoor dining table. Fleeceflower needs frequent trimming to keep it from overtaking its neighbours- Credit
- Beckie Fox
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Suburban sanctuary Suburban sanctuary
Suburban sanctuary ofUnexpected profusion and range of plants Entering Maureen Hannaford's garden through the silver lace vine-enveloped gazebo is a little like discovering C.S. Lewis's Narnia through the wardrobe-so unexpected is the profusion and range of plants. Maureen has transformed an ordinary suburban lot in St. John's into an enchanting sanctuary for both body and soul. Maureen and her sister Margaret purchased the property, part of a new subdivision, in 1984. The site was an uninspired plot that provided little