How to
Simple ways to extend the harvest
Simple ways to extend the harvest of
Cooled in cold frames You can plant vegetables earlier in the spring and harvest them later in the autumn by creating conditions that are less extreme than in the open garden. Here are some of the best methods. Coddled in cold frames Cold frames can lengthen the growing season by up to two months. These are bottomless boxes with clear covers set directly on the ground. You can purchase prefabricated models or build your own.The sides may be constructed of wood, brick or cinder block. Old storm windows, clear acrylic panes or sheets of Plexiglas make durable covers; another option is UV-stabilized polyethylene or heavy-duty PolyWeave (eight-millimetre-thick polyethylene reinforced with nylon mesh). This lasts for five seasons, lets through 90 per cent of available sunlight and protects plants to –4ºC. You can also create a temporary cold frame by stacking bales of straw around plants and laying old storm windows overtop.Site the cold frame facing south, with the back toward the north. Raise the back several centimetres higher than the front by mounding it up with soil (fill in the gaps on the sides with more soil); this angles the cover for maximum sun exposure and helps insulate the frame. Once in place, enrich the soil with your best compost to ensure good drainage and prevent roots from rotting. Put a small thermometer inside the cold frame; when the temperature reaches 22ºC, prop open the lid.All tucked inPlaced loosely over plants, floating row covers and garden blankets made of lightweight fabric (e.g. Agronet, Agryl P17 and Reemay) let through about 85 per cent of available sunlight, are permeable to water and air, and protect plants from frost damage to –2ºC. (Peg down the edges with U-shaped metal pins or large flat-head nails.) Floating row covers speed the growth of young plants in spring, enabling gardeners to harvest vegetables 10 to 14 days earlier than usual. Additionally, they slow the evaporation of moisture from the soil and keep pests off plants. These covers should be replaced after 20 weeks or so of combined use. Pampered in plasticPlastic tunnels are essentially mini-greenhouses that can extend the growing season by three to five weeks, and are ideal for vegetables planted in straight rows.Place a sheet of four- or six-millimetre-thick polyethylene (with a UV-inhibitor) over a series of sturdy bent wires or plastic hoops that are slightly higher than the plants. Bury the edges of the sheet in the soil and secure with bricks or stones; leave the ends open. Ventilate the tunnel and moderate temperatures by cutting vertical slits in the plastic every 30 to 40 centimetres. On nights when temperatures hover around freezing, cover the ends with squares of leftover polyethylene or newspaper. Four-season cold frames Spring Start and harden off seedlings; grow early, cool-season vegetables such as spinach, leaf lettuce and radishes.SummerRemove the lid and start autumn crops or perennials from seed.AutumnExtend the harvest of summer crops such as beans, beets, eggplants, onions and peppers; sow a second season of salad greens and other cool-weather crops. WinterExtend the harvest of autumn crops such as potatoes, winter squash, arugula, cabbage, kale and leeks; propagate shrubs and trees from cuttings, which can be left to overwinter inside the cold frame.
- Credit
- Stephen Westcott-Gratton
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How green is your thumb? How green is your thumb?
How green is your thumb? ofOrganic waste What do you do with your organic waste? A) Bring it out to my compost binB) Throw it in the garbageC) What exactly is the difference between waste and organic waste?Check your answer on the next page Waste not, want not If you picked A then you’re familiar with the benefits of composting. It’s easy to throw your organic waste into your garbage bin without thinking about the landfill sites your garbage is taken to. But it’s just as easy to keep it in a bin in the fridge (to keep the smell under control) and walk it out to your compost pile daily, or even just a few times a week. Compost makes your soil healthy, helps it stay moist, keeps your garden cool in the summer and warm in the winter. You can dig it into your soil in the spring and generously sprinkle it over your garden in the summer. Need more convincing? Compost adds as a natural fertilizer, reducing your dependency on chemical-based ones.Contact your municipality to see about getting a compost bin, or if you’d like a little challenge you can always build your own. New to composting? Check out Environment Canada’s tips. Eat your veggies I make my vegetable soups with:A) Whatever vegetables are on sale at the grocery storeB) I don’t cookC) The vegetables from my garden/community gardenCheck your answer on the next page Growing tips If you’ve chosen C, you probably know a great deal about vegetable gardening. Did you know that you don’t have to use pesticides to keep bug and critters away from your tasty veggies? Separating your vegetable rows with marigolds will help stave off roundworms. They also attract bees that will help along the pollination process. Chrysanthemums, chives, garlic and onions are also known to keep pests away from your precious veggies. Pest control To keep persistent animals out of my garden I:A) Chase them out with rake in handB) Build a short fence and use an assortment of natural products found in my homeC) Put up an electric fenceCheck your answer on the next page Be kind to your pets Choosing B means staying friendly with our furry four-legged friends. You don’t have to let animals eat out your vegetable patch, but you don’t have to cause them harm either.Build a short fence to keep small animals out, but make sure it reaches about 8” into the soil to keep out animals that like to dig. If a fence doesn’t work try sprinkling cayenne or hot chili peppers around your garden. Animals seem to steer clear of this spicy product. Mothballs are also a good option. Not working? Try spraying a mixture of vinegar and water around the perimeter of your garden (not on your plants). Build it, and they will come When planning to build a new deck or fence I tend:A) To think about designB) To let a builder take care of itC) To think about all sorts of aspects, including design, colour and where my wood comes fromCheck your answer on the next page Built it right If you’ve chosen C you’re certainly ahead of the game. Today we aren’t only thinking about the origins of our food, clothes and coffee, but also our wood. Much of the wood available for purchase in Canada comes from forests suffering from illegal logging practices, is cut by workers who are unfairly treated and originates from land where the culture of indigenous people is threatened by logging. The story of our very own Great Bear Rainforest in British Columbia is just one example of the problems surrounding logging.Be sure to purchase eco-friendly, sustainable wood certified by the Forest Stewardship Council (FSC) for you next project. The FSC ensures that your lumber is acquired in a manner that pays heed to legal issues, fair labour practices, the rights of indigenous peoples and environmental issues. For more information, visit www.fscus.org or www.savethegreatbear.org. And finally... The most important thing about gardening is:A) To impress your neighboursB) To show-up all the other gardeners on your blockC) To have funCheck your answer on the next page Small plots I hope you picked C! Even if you want to impress your nosy neighbours or show up other gardeners with your skills, be sure to have fun in the process. Gardening is an inclusive activity that just happens to keep you active. Get you spouse, kids and grandkids out in the yard to get their exercise and to teach them about the great outdoors.Or, if you’d prefer the company of like-minded folk, look for a community garden in your area to exercise your green thumb!Take part one of our eco-quiz!- Credit
- Daniela Payne
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Are you an eco-conscious gardener? Are you an eco-conscious gardener?
Are you an eco-conscious gardener? ofWatering rules We all know that a healthy garden requires a good watering, especially during our stifling summers. What are your rules for watering the garden?A) Watering has to be done in the middle of those super hot days. My garden gets so dry!B) I don’t even know! My automatic irrigation system takes care of thatC) I usually water in the early mornings using the water that’s collected from my downspout into my rain barrelCheck your answer on the next page Watering tips Fellow Canadians, we are already the second highest users of water IN THE WORLD. And in the summer months, our water consumption increases by 50 per cent. If you chose answer C, you are definitely eco-savvy when it comes to watering. But if you chose anything else you, like many others, need a little bit of guidance. Top watering tips:Water in the early morning! When the sun is beaming down on those plants and lawn at midday, the water will evaporate quickly.Think about water conservation when planning your garden. Place the plants that require more water together so you can water one area when these plants are thirsty, as opposed to the entire garden. Also, plant these guzzlers in areas that are prone to water run-off from those little slopes in your garden. Have your downspout connected to a rain barrel. It will collect rainwater and you will have an endless source of water for your garden. Surround your plants a layer of mulch to help the soil retain moisture. Garden maintenance To prune and maintain your garden you use: A) A manual push-mower, a rake and clippers for the hedges B) A gas mower and a leaf blower C) What’s a push-mower? Check your answer on the next page Maintenance tips Go for Green tells us that using a gas mower for 1 hour is the equivalent of driving 563 km in a car. It’s pretty scary when you think of greenhouse gases that are produced as a result of our dependency on taking the easy way out. If you chose A, congratulations on taking initiative to help reduce the risk of global warming. If you did not choose A, think about taking an active role in reducing greenhouse gasses. By using manual garden tools like a push-mower, rake and clippers you will help reduce both noise and air pollution. Plus, think about the great workout you’ll get! Night bright At night my garden is: A) As bright as it is during the day with my fountains going full force – I love the calming sound! B) I have a few solar power lanterns to gently light the path to my back garden C) I don’t know, it's too dark to see itCheck your answer on the next page Lighting tips Yay for those energy savers who picked B! It’s OK to light up your garden at night, just be sure to invest in solar-powered lights. It’s funny how both your electricity bills and energy consumption goes down when you rely on the power of the sun. Same thing goes for fountains and birdbaths. Today there are many solar-powered fountains to choose from. Exotic choices When planning your garden you tend to choose plants, flowers and shrubs that are:A) Native to CanadaB) Imported exotic plantsC) Whatever’s in style this seasonCheck your answer on the next page Going native If you chose A then you’re really thinking about the environment. Exotic and imported plants require a lot more work, fertilizers and water to help them withstand our climate. But native plants, which have been growing in Canada for eons, are already used to the environment and therefore require a lot less work, pesticides, herbicides and fertilizers. Native plants also use up far less gas and energy than imported plants, as they don’t need to be transported from such great distances. A garden with native plants, flowers and shrubs also creates a hospitable habitat for local wildlife. Ontario alone has 1,930 native plants to choose from, so there’s no excuse not to give it a try. Bug killer Peak of the summer means a peak in the swarms of mosquitoes! To ensure this pesky little guys stay away you: A) Stay inside B) Spray yourself and all your loved ones with copious amounts of insect repellent C) Add pots of rosemary and catnip to deck décor to keep them away Check your answer on the next page Swarm control Many leading brands of bug spray contain DEET - a strong chemical that is known to repel pesky mosquitoes. Not only do some argue that DEET is an environmental contaminant, but also a skin and eye irritant. Although anything with less than 30 per cent DEET is hardly harmful (in moderation), try repelling bugs the natural way. If you picked C, you’re off to a great start. The oil on a catnip plant is highly effective in repelling mosquitoes. Rosemary has the same effect, and you can also use it to spruce up your cooking. Move it inside in the winter to continue nurturing it. You can also give citronella grass and marigolds a try. Don’t forget to place a cover on your rainwater barrels and make sure whatever else collects water (cans, buckets and barrels, pot saucers) gets emptied frequently – a haven for mosquito larvae.Take part two of our eco-quiz!- Credit
- Daniela Payne
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Simple ways to extend the harvest Simple ways to extend the harvest
Simple ways to extend the harvest ofCooled in cold frames You can plant vegetables earlier in the spring and harvest them later in the autumn by creating conditions that are less extreme than in the open garden. Here are some of the best methods. Coddled in cold frames Cold frames can lengthen the growing season by up to two months. These are bottomless boxes with clear covers set directly on the ground. You can purchase prefabricated models or build your own.The sides may be constructed of wood, brick or cinder block. Old storm windows, clear acrylic panes or sheets of Plexiglas make durable covers; another option is UV-stabilized polyethylene or heavy-duty PolyWeave (eight-millimetre-thick polyethylene reinforced with nylon mesh). This lasts for five seasons, lets through 90 per cent of available sunlight and protects plants to –4ºC. You can also create a temporary cold frame by stacking bales of straw around plants and laying old storm windows overtop.Site the cold frame facing south, with the back toward the north. Raise the back several centimetres higher than the front by mounding it up with soil (fill in the gaps on the sides with more soil); this angles the cover for maximum sun exposure and helps insulate the frame. Once in place, enrich the soil with your best compost to ensure good drainage and prevent roots from rotting. Put a small thermometer inside the cold frame; when the temperature reaches 22ºC, prop open the lid.All tucked inPlaced loosely over plants, floating row covers and garden blankets made of lightweight fabric (e.g. Agronet, Agryl P17 and Reemay) let through about 85 per cent of available sunlight, are permeable to water and air, and protect plants from frost damage to –2ºC. (Peg down the edges with U-shaped metal pins or large flat-head nails.) Floating row covers speed the growth of young plants in spring, enabling gardeners to harvest vegetables 10 to 14 days earlier than usual. Additionally, they slow the evaporation of moisture from the soil and keep pests off plants. These covers should be replaced after 20 weeks or so of combined use. Pampered in plasticPlastic tunnels are essentially mini-greenhouses that can extend the growing season by three to five weeks, and are ideal for vegetables planted in straight rows.Place a sheet of four- or six-millimetre-thick polyethylene (with a UV-inhibitor) over a series of sturdy bent wires or plastic hoops that are slightly higher than the plants. Bury the edges of the sheet in the soil and secure with bricks or stones; leave the ends open. Ventilate the tunnel and moderate temperatures by cutting vertical slits in the plastic every 30 to 40 centimetres. On nights when temperatures hover around freezing, cover the ends with squares of leftover polyethylene or newspaper. Four-season cold frames Spring Start and harden off seedlings; grow early, cool-season vegetables such as spinach, leaf lettuce and radishes.SummerRemove the lid and start autumn crops or perennials from seed.AutumnExtend the harvest of summer crops such as beans, beets, eggplants, onions and peppers; sow a second season of salad greens and other cool-weather crops. WinterExtend the harvest of autumn crops such as potatoes, winter squash, arugula, cabbage, kale and leeks; propagate shrubs and trees from cuttings, which can be left to overwinter inside the cold frame.- Credit
- Stephen Westcott-Gratton
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Making new shrubs Making new shrubs
Making new shrubs ofSelect a suitable stem Layering is a cost-effective way to propagate woody plants that gardeners have used for centuries. Simply put, a young branch from the parent plant is bent to the ground and buried in a trench with just the growing tip exposed. Once rooted, the layered branch is severed from the parent, and the clone then transplanted.SELECTING SUITABLE STEMSThe best branches to use for simple layering are vigorous, green, flexible, one-year-old stems, about as thin as a pencil and long enough to bend to the ground. Plants that haven’t been pruned regularly might not have any suitable young shoots close to ground level. If this is the case, in the spring, prune one or two mature branches to within 15 to 20 centimetres of the base of the shrub. Over the course of the summer, these branches will produce new shoots perfect for layering the following spring.TIME IT RIGHTIdeally, simple layering should be carried out in the spring before the plant has broken dormancy. That’s because blanching the layered stem (keeping it from sunlight) is crucial for initiating root formation, and the earlier you bury it, the more vigorous the rooting response.BEST PLANTS FOR LAYERINGCAMELLIA (Camellia japonica) FLOWERING QUINCE (Chaenomeles spp.) CLEMATIS spp.WINTER HAZEL (Corylopsis spp.) SMOKEBUSH (Cotinus coggygria) COTONEASTER spp.FORSYTHIA spp.WITCH HAZEL (Hamamelis spp.)IVY (Hedera spp.)CLIMBING HYDRANGEA (Hydrangea anomala sp. petiolaris)HOLLY (Ilex spp.)HONEYSUCKLE (Lonicera spp.)MAGNOLIA spp.VIRGINIA CREEPER (Parthenocissus quinquefolia)BOSTON IVY (P. tricuspidata) MOCK ORANGE (Philadelphus spp.)RHODODENDRON spp.CURRANT, GOOSEBERRY (Ribes spp.)RASPBERRY, BLACKBERRY (Rubus spp.)SPIRAEA spp.LILAC (Syringa spp.)HEMLOCK (Tsuga spp.)VIBURNUM spp.GRAPE (Vitis spp.)WISTERIA spp. Method and tips METHODIf your soil is poor, enrich it where the stem will be buried by forking in compost or well-rotted manure to a depth of 25 centimetres. Using a spade, dig a narrow trench about 20 centimetres deep at the point where the branch to be layered will lie, and long enough to accommodate the stem.Keeping the branch as flat as possible, bend it downward and lay it along the trench. (Young, green shoots won’t snap, but bending them sharply will restrict the flow of nutrients and hormones, which is vital for forming new roots.)Leave at least 15 centimetres of the tip of the stem above ground. Keep the layer in place by pegging it down with metal hoops—sections of wire hangers bent into a U-shape work well. As you fill the rest of the trench with topsoil, use a small stake to keep the exposed tip growing absolutely upright; otherwise the main stem of the new plant will lean to one side, causing uneven growth. Tread soil down firmly. Water well. Keep the layer well watered throughout the summer. Most plants will produce roots over the course of one growing season, but some may take up to three years (such as magnolia, witch hazel and broadleaf evergreens). To test if the layer is ready for transplanting, give the shoot a gentle tug; if you feel firm resistance, rooting has occurred. In the fall, to prepare the layer for transplanting, sever the branch from the parent plant using secateurs, but leave the layer in the same spot over winter so it develops a stronger root system. Transplant the following spring. QUICK TIPSFor faster rooting results, you can do one of two things: Use a sharp, sterile knife to girdle the layered stem (remove a ring of bark two centimetres wide all the way around the branch), four to five centimetres from the parent plant.Tie a piece of copper wire around the layered stem, four to five centimetres from the parent plant. Tighten the wire as much as you can using only your fingers (pliers will tighten it too much).- Credit
- Stephen Westcott-Gratton
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Celeb gardeners' greatest gardening... Celeb gardeners' greatest gardening...
Celeb gardeners' greatest gardening... of"What has been your greatest gardening challenge?" "What has been your greatest gardening challenge?"Wilf NichollsSt. John’sDirector, Botanical Garden, Memorial University of NewfoundlandTime. My home garden is currently a utilitarian playground for two dogs and a great disappointment to my neighbours, who, given my profession, harboured such high hopes. When I retire many years from now, I promise to dedicate more time to the yard to make my wife and the neighbours proud.Charlie DobbinRichmond Hill, Ont.Owner, Garden Solutions by Charlie DobbinMy super-hot, sunny front yard, which doubles as a basketball court. This combined function has taught me what will survive the acid test of boys and balls. Junipers, roses and geraniums take an amazing amount of abuse, but it’s the spiky yuccas that really take the prize. Alexander RefordGrand-Métis, Que.Director, The Reford GardensKeeping a classic public garden progressive. Our challenge is to continually find new ways to surprise and inspire increasingly more knowledgeable visitors with leading-edge plants, colours, combinations and design.Jim HoleSt. Albert, Alta.Co-owner, Hole’s GreenhousesCompromise. I can’t resist bringing ailing and underperforming plants home from the nursery in order to observe their growth habits. It’s a great learning opportunity, but it certainly makes the aesthetics of our garden go down the tubes. My wife, who would dearly love a pretty garden, is not amused.Des KennedyDenman Island, B.C.AuthorComing to terms with the fact that no matter how long and hard one works, or how dutifully one peruses the manuals, takes courses from the masters and visits great gardens far and wide, one remains little more than a gardening novice with a very, very long way still to go.Guest star: Toller CranstonSan Miguel de Allende, MexicoArtist, author, Olympic medal-winning skaterA freak cold snap early in 1994, which blanketed everything for miles around San Miguel de Allende with a thick coat of ice. It looked fascinating, but completely destroyed my semi-tropical, 1.5-acre garden. Today, in my usual more-is-not-nearly-enough style, I’ve just about finished rebuilding my lush garden paradise.- Credit
- Carol Cowan
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Chemical-free lawn care Chemical-free lawn care
Chemical-free lawn care ofNo more chemicals As more and more Canadian municipalities ban the cosmetic use of pesticides, many gardeners are left wondering how to manage their lawns without letting them become a haven for dandelions, other weeds and pests. Well, there's good news for these gardeners—and anyone else concerned about pesticide use: almost all lawn problems can be dealt with organically.Michael Pascoe has been caring for 100 acres of turf, without using synthetic chemical pesticides, for the past 15 years at Cuddy Gardens, a private estate garden near London, Ontario. Pascoe is a horticulturist, but he sounds more like a Buddhist monk on the subject of organic maintenance: “If there are problems with your lawn, you need to ask, ‘Why are they there?'”The key is to identify the underlying cause—the “why”—of your ailing grass. Quite often the problem comes down to soil depleted of nutrients and organic matter, and lack of aeration. More good news: autumn is the perfect time to give your lawn an organic pick-me-up, which will get at the root causes of turf traumas and ensure vigour come spring.Organic maintenance in fall basically consists of a trio of tasks: aerating, top dressing and fertilizing. All three will improve your soil, providing a healthy foundation on which your lawn can thrive. (See “The Gentle Approach” on next page)Along with these three practices, there are a few other fall tasks that may be required, depending on how well your grass has come through the rigours of summer, the main challenges being drought, pests and weeds.If, for example, there are bare patches, early fall (six to eight weeks before frost) is a good time to overseed. Rake the soil, sow the seeds, then lightly rake again. Top-dress with a very thin layer (about one centimetre thick) of topsoil; water well, keeping the area moist until seeds sprout and the grass thickens.For pest and weed problems, there are a number of organic products on the market that you can apply in autumn. And here's a heads-up: Lorelei Hepburn, owner of the Ontario-based organic lawn-care company Environmental Factor, predicts that leatherjackets (the larvae of the adult crane fly, which looks like a large mosquito) will be a common pest this fall. She suggests pulling back the sod to look for the greenish brown larvae (see “Sneak Peek” on next page). In early September, there won't be any visible lawn damage yet; however, if it's mid-October, you'll likely see brown patches if there are leatherjackets. It's best to look for these pests in a couple of different places. Another sign of the larvae is the presence of crane flies. If you do find leatherjackets, you can buy beneficial nematodes (microscopic parasites that destroy insect pests such as cutworms and Japanese beetles) to spray on the lawn to control them. Available commercially at select nurseries, nematodes can also be used to control white grubs (the larvae of various beetles), which could be found in the soil at this time as well. Gentle alternatives A relatively new product making the rounds in organic lawn-care circles is corn gluten meal, a by-product of the milling process for corn. It controls weeds that germinate in the fall, such as black medick, stinkweed and shepherd's purse, by inhibiting seed germination. The only caution is that if you are overseeding your lawn in late summer or early fall, you shouldn't use corn gluten meal for at least four to six weeks after you've spread the seed. If you're not seeding, it can be used any time until Halloween. Think of it as an organic trick for a lawn treat.The gentle approachThe three autumn tasks listed below are essential to maintaining a healthy, organic lawn.Aerating gets oxygen into the soil, helps prevent or reduce thatch and lessens compaction. There are several different aeration tools; which one you use will depend on the size of your lawn. For large areas (say, an acre or more), consider renting a power aerator that lifts cores of soil from the turf. For smaller lawns, a core cultivator (a hand tool) will do the job, as will a pitchfork or forked spade. You'll need to drive the tool into the soil 10 to 15 centimetres deep, wiggle it around, then pull it out. Whichever method you choose, don't worry about the cores dotting the lawn—simply break them up with a rake.Top dressing is a good idea after aerating; compost is the top dressing of choice for the organic lawn. Using sifted compost, rake in enough so that you've added a layer about one centimetre thick over the entire lawn surface. For large areas, you can use a fertilizer spreader to distribute the compost. Within days, it will settle into the soil.Fertilizing is done in early to mid-fall to promote deeper root growth and is good preparation for the winter ahead. It's important to use a fertilizer low in nitrogen so that grass plants don't have an above-ground growth spurt. There are a number of organic lawn fertilizers on the market. Be sure to follow the manufacturer's directions—too much of a good thing is bad; for instance, you could overfeed the grass just before winter, leading to tender growth. As well, excess fertilizer can run into the sewer system.Sneak peekPam Charbonneau, a turfgrass specialist with the Ontario Ministry of Agriculture, Food and Rural Affairs, suggests a non-destructive way to look for leatherjackets and other grubs under the grass: use a sharp knife to cut three sides of a 30-centimetre square, 7.5 centimetres deep. Then, simply fold back the turf and have a look. The grass mat can be folded back into place, with no permanent damage.- Credit
- Lorraine Johnson
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Video: Propagating conifers Video: Propagating conifers
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Healthy gardening habits Healthy gardening habits
Healthy gardening habits ofHealthy gardening habits Think gardening is a gentle hobby? This misconception can sometimes lead to a long list of unnecessary complaints—sore shoulders, neck strain, repetitive stress injuries and aching muscles. “No pain, no gain” applies to rock-hard abs, not rock gardens. Weeding, digging, raking and pruning have all the elements of a gym workout and should be approached with the same respectful caution, says Sue Nash, a physical trainer from Guelph, Ont., who specializes in posture and body mechanics.Whether you're a weekend warrior or prefer to garden in small daily doses, it's easy to care for your body while tending your plants. Just follow Nash's Before, During and After tips for pain-free gardening. The only ache you'll feel is pride.BeforeRegardless of the temperature outdoors, you need to get the blood flowing and the joints warmed up. “Your warm-up should mimic what you're going to do in the garden,” advises Nash. "This is especially important because it alerts both your muscles and brain by sending the message that these muscles will be working.”If you'll be pulling weeds or pruning, do arm circles. Digging? Gentle lunges and squats. Mowing the lawn? Take a brisk walk around the block or jog on the spot.DuringOver-exertion causes most garden-related injuries. Even if you're moving modest molehills, rather than mountains, give your body frequent breaks. Fortunately, when it comes to physical activity, a change is as good as a rest, so remember to switch things up.• Work both sides: We tend to use our dominant side. This puts added strain on joints, tendons and muscles. To prevent injury when digging or raking, switch sides from time to time. Strike a balance by keeping count. If you begin to tire, switch more often.• Break it up: Alternate tasks every 20 minutes to prevent strain. Rake, plant, water and weed in rotation. However, if you're dedicated to a specific task, take a break every 20 minutes and stretch the muscle groups you're using to relieve muscles and joints.•Watch your back: Whether you're bending over to pull weeds, kneeling to plant bulbs, shoveling earth or raking, keep your back in a neutral position, with shoulders down and stomach muscles tight. Over time, stooping will weaken your back, leaving you vulnerable to injury.•Cushion the blow: Prolonged kneeling puts pressure on the kneecaps, decreasing circulation. Don't wait for arthritis to strike before using a cushion or garden stool. And remember to keep your back straight.• Slide your shoulders down: Whether you're working above your head or with your arms extended, make a conscious effort to keep your shoulders away from your ear lobes. Hiking up your shoulders can cause neck strain.AfterBefore rewarding yourself with a cold drink or hot shower, do a cool-down of gentle stretching to help prevent sore muscles. Yoga, TaiChi or Qigong provide a perfect wind-down and can be done right on the lawn. If you're not familiar with these practices, any type of gentle stretching will work.- Credit
- Charmian Christie
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Gardening for kids Gardening for kids
Gardening for kids ofChapter 1 If you're looking for a great family project (and ways to get your kids outside and active), why not involve your kids in your gardening? It's a lot of fun and teaches them about responsibility.We've compiled a list of ways your kids can get involved in the garden!1. Start by creating a space where your child can plant and care for his or her garden. This can be a small section of the main garden or a small flowerbed that's all their own. Container gardening is a good indoor option where outdoor space is limited.2. Browse the seed catalogues or search the Internet with your child to start choosing plants and seeds. Consider plants that are easy to grow. Tomato plants, mint or annual flowers, such as colourful sunflowers, are some great options.3. Before shopping for plants, prepare the soil. There's nothing worse than having to wait to start the fun – and the plants will appreciate a flowerbed that's ready for them, too.4. Depending on how your child learns, you can choose to germinate plants from seeds or buy cell packs of ready-grown seedlings. Watching a plant grow from a seed teaches a child patience and responsibility, but if they can't wait, an easier way is to help them look after seedlings .5. Help your child create a theme for the garden – it can be colour, flowers or favourite vegetables. Letting your child choose a garden ornament or two can brighten up their flowerbed, and make it their own.6. On rainy days when they can't get out to see how their plants are doing encourage your child to create a birdhouse or bird feeder (make sure to use non-toxic paint).7. Help make your child's garden a place to play, too. A bean tepee or a sunflower forest offer little hideaways. 8. Be sure to include edible plants and flowers that can be tasted and touched. This makes gardening a truly interactive experience!Getting down and dirty with your children in the garden can be a bonding experience as you watch the plants grow and flourish together.- Credit
- Elizabeth Hawksworth
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Essentials for no-fail gardening Essentials for no-fail gardening
Essentials for no-fail gardening ofTips for no-fail gardening Right plant, right place: It's not enough just to go for plants you like. For a thriving garden, choose those suited to your growing conditions.• Light levels: Typically, unless surrounded by huge shade trees, your garden will have some areas of full sun, as well as spots shaded by trees or buildings.• Full sun: Many flowering perennials and most roses do best in full sun—at least six hours daily. With only two to three hours of sunlight, sun-lovers will struggle to survive.• Shade or part shade: For a bed that receives sun only part of the day, choose plants that thrive in shade or part shade. Besides astilbes and hostas, try cranesbills (hardy perennial geraniums), bleeding hearts, foxgloves, columbines andcoral bells, to name a few.• Buying plants: Good garden centres group plants according to their sun and shade requirements. Trees and shrubs also have light preferences, so read the plant tags and do some research before choosing. Getting your soil ready for planting Aside from light levels, plants can be picky about soil conditions, so before planting, nourish your soil. Most plants thrive in soil that's moist but well drained – a seeming contradiction that means soil is moisture retentive, but not too wet. The ideal garden soil has the consistency of crumbly chocolate cake and is easy to dig. • The way to improve almost any kind of soil – from sticky clay to porous sandy soil – is the same: add humus (composted manure, compost or leaf mould, or any combination of these materials). In sandy conditions, humus acts like a sponge to hold moisture, while in clay, it breaks up sticky particles to create larger pore spaces that drain more easily and hold the oxygen plant roots need.• Remove grass or other existing vegetation with a flat spade or kill it with a glyphosate herbicide (if permitted in your region). Don't just till a weedy or grassy area and plant directly into it – grass and perennial weeds can re-grow from small pieces of root or stem left in the ground. • With the existing vegetation removed, spread about five to seven centimeters of humus over the garden bed and dig it in. Once you've raked the area smooth, you're ready to plant.Look at your garden regularlyBe sure to stroll through your garden every few days to spot problems before they get out of control and turn into major chores. • Watering new plants: Keep the soil moist around new plants for about six to eight weeks to help them develop good, strong root systems.• Weeding: Remove weeds promptly; it's easier to pull small weeds than larger, deeply rooted ones. Be sure to pull them before they go to seed. Hint: Go out after a rainy day when soil is soft and moist – the weeds will be easier to remove.• Use mulch: A five to 7.5 centimetre layer of mulch applied over bare soil between plants keeps down weeds and helps to keep soil moist. Commonly available mulches are straw (don't use hay, which has too many weed seeds), cocoa bean hulls or shredded bark. Yvonne Cunnington writes a Novice Gardener column for Canadian Gardening. For more gardening information, visit her website at Flower Gardening Made Easy.- Credit
- Yvonne Cunnington
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Testing your soil Testing your soil
Testing your soil ofTesting your soil Were your flowers and vegetables as lush and healthy as you'd hoped this year? If not, consider testing your soil for its nutrient content and pH (whether it's alkaline or acidic) to determine if it needs amending. Some experts recommend checking soil every three to five years, since rainfall and plants deplete it. Fall is the best time to test soil; it's after the growing season, but before the ground freezes. Contact a local soil-testing laboratory for more information about what it tests for (some include soil type, such as clay, muck, sand or the ideal, loam), what the analysis costs, if it includes recommendations in view of the results as well as what you want to grow, and how to take a soil sample. Here's a list of provincial and private laboratories found across Canada: Alberta Norwest Labs 7217 Roper Road, Edmonton, Alberta T6B 3J4; (780) 438-5522; Toll Free in Western Canada: (800) 661-7645 ; www.norwestlabs.com British Columbia Griffin Labs Corp. 1875 Spall Rd., Kelowna, BC V1Y 4R2 (250) 765-3399; www.grifflabs.com M&B Research & Development P.O. Box 2103, Sydney, B.C. V8L 3S6 (250) 656-1334; www.mblabs.com Norwest Soilcon Labs 104, 19575-56A Ave. Surrey, BC, V3S 8P8; 604-514-3322 or 800- 889-1433; www.norwestlabs.com Manitoba Norwest Labs 1357 Dugald Road, Winnipeg, Manitoba R2J 0H3; (204) 982-8630; toll Free in Western Canada: (800) 483-3448 ; www.norwestlabs.com New Brunswick NB Agricultural Lab NB Dept. Of Agriculture, Fisheries and Aquaculture, Box 6000, Fredericton, NB, E3B 5H1; 506-453-3495; www.gnb.ca/0179/01790003-E.ASP Newfoundland and Labrador Soil Plant and Feed Laboratory Department of Forest Resources and Agrifoods, Provincial Agriculture Building, Box 8700, Brookfield Road, St. John's, NF, A1B 4J6; 709-729-6638; www.gov.nf.ca/agric Nova Scotia Laboratory Services Nova Scotia Department of Agriculture and Fisheries, Quality Evaluation Division, Laboratory Services 176 College Road (Harlow Institute), Truro, Nova Scotia B2N 2P3; www.gov.ns.ca/nsaf Ontario A & L Canada Laboratories East, Inc. 2136 Jetstream Rd., London, ON, N5V 3P5 (519) 457-2575 Accutest Laboratories 146 Colonnade Rd., Unit 8, Nepean, ON, K2E 7Y1 (613) 727-5692 Agri-Food Laboratories 503 Imperial Rd., Guelph, ON, N1H 6T9 (519) 837-1600 or 800-265-7175 Soil and Nutrient Laboratory University of Guelph, 95 Stone Rd. W., Guelph, ON N1H 2W1 (519) 767-6226 www.uoguelph.ca/labserv Stratford Agri Analysis Inc. 1131 Erie St., Box 760, Stratford, ON, N5A 6W1 (519) 273-4411 or 800-323-9089 www.stratfordagri.com Prince Edward Island P.E.I. Soil and Feed Testing Lab P.O. Box 1600, Research Station, Charlottetown, PEI C1A 7N3, 902-368-5631; www.gov.pe.ca/af/soilfeed Will give organic results, if requested. Samples may also be left at your nearest District Agricultural Office. Quebec Les Laboratoires A&L du Canada 465 3e Rang Nord, Saint Charles sur Richelieu, Quebec J0H 2G0; (514) 584-2151 www.al-labs-can.com/soil/ser_QCsoil.html Saskatchewan Saskatchewan Soil Testing Lab Department of Soil Science, General Purpose Building, University of Saskatchewan, Saskatoon, SK, S7N 0W0 (306) 966-6890 www.gardenline.usask.ca/misc/soil2.html Enviro-Test Laboratories 819-58th St. East, Saskatoon, Saskatchewan S7K 6X5; (306) 668-8370; (800) 667-7645 ; www.envirotest.com- Credit
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Hardiness zones and frost dates Hardiness zones and frost dates
Hardiness zones and frost dates ofHardiness zones and frost dates Find out about plant hardiness zones and what they mean to the way you garden.• Agriculture Canada Hardiness Zone Map • Indicator Trees by Zone • Indicator Shrubs by Zone • Going Beyond the Zones Project • USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map • Environment Canada's Frost Dates Chart- Credit
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Indoor-Outdoor Bench Indoor-Outdoor Bench
Indoor-Outdoor Bench ofMaking a garden bench There's nothing like an old-fashioned wooden bench to bring back memories. While travelling around Canada, I see them everywhere, proving that they fill all sorts of needs and they last almost forever. I've even seen reproduction benches tagged at $150 and up, though you've got to wonder who buys them, considering how easy they are to build. My version of this old classic keeps to the original virtues of simplicity and strength; the qualities that make this pine bench so popular. ConstructionsSince chair height is typically 18", I made my bench the same height. Start by cutting two legs to length, then, in the centre of each one, mark a point 5" up from the bottom. This is where you'll be drilling a 1¼"-diameter hole that accents the top of each leg cutout. Before you drill, draw two lines beginning from the point you just marked down to the bottom of each leg, 2¼" from each side. This outlines the all-important V-shaped leg cutouts. I used a Forstner bit (which creates a flat-bottomed hole) to drill the hole at the top of each leg cutout. Put a piece of waste wood under the bench legs as you drill to prevent ugly fuzz from developing around the bottom edges of the holes. You can use a band saw, jigsaw or handsaw to cut the angled sides of the leg cutouts. (If you opt for a jigsaw, apply only light pressure in order to keep the blade from wandering out of square. If your jigsaw features orbital blade action, turn it to full power, since the leg stock is thick.)The tops of the legs need notches called shoulders (see illustration, page 52). These make the bench more rigid by offering greater support to the aprons, which hold the entire bench together and give it stability. Two quick cuts takes care of each one. The legs are now done, though you may opt to sand and round over the outer edges.The seat on my bench is made of a 12"-wide piece of ¾"-thick pine. To create the handle cutouts on the bench seat, begin with two 1½"-diameter holes, removing the wood between them with a couple of jigsaw cuts. Rounding the edges of these holes makes them nicer to grab.The aprons are next. Cut two aprons, nipping the bottoms of the corners off at a 45-degree angle for aesthetics. What you need Strong stanceThe top of each leg is notched to provide extra support for the aprons. In turn, the aprons are secured to the seat with L-brackets. For added strength, four screws are then driven through the top of the seat into each leg and one screw into the centre of each apron.Tools:• pencil• ruler• drill • Forstner drill bit• band saw, jigsaw or handsaw• palm sanderMaterial:• 1 pine seat: ¾" x 12" x 48" • 2 pine aprons: ¾" x 3½" x 44"• 2 pine legs: 1½" x 9½" x 17½"• 18 plated wood screws: #10 x 1½"• 4 plated L-brackets: 1½" x 1½"• 220-grit sandpaper• exterior latex paint: matte black and dark green • oil-based wood stain• spar varnishAssemblyLay the legs on their edges and nestle one of the aprons into the uppermost shoulder cutouts. Position the legs 4" in from the ends of the aprons, square them up, then lock them in position with two #10 x 1½" plated screws per joint. (Driving the screws into pre-drilled countersunk holes in the aprons greatly reduces the chance of splitting, especially with wood that contains knots or wavy grain near the screw locations.) Turn the seat upside down on your workbench, then centre the leg frame on top. There should be 2" of overhang on each end. I used pocket screws to secure the top to the aprons, though metal L-brackets work, too (as above). Flip the bench over and drive four 1½" screws down through the top into each of the legs, and one in the centre of each apron for added strength. FinishTo create a weathered finish, I began with a coat of exterior latex paint in matte black. Once dry, a second coat was added (this time in dark green). Distressing was done with a ring of keys banged against the bench to create dents and dings, with a palm sander providing the necessary wear in all the places you'd expect. The idea is to remove some of the outer coat of paint, as well as some of the first paint layer, down to the bare wood. To tone down the contrast between bare wood and paint, a coat of oil-based wood stain was added to create a rich burnished look before sealing everything under three coats of spar varnish (tough enough for outdoor use). Be sure to do a light 220-grit sanding between each layer.- Credit
- John Sillaots
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My desert island plant My desert island plant
My desert island plant ofMy Desert Island Plant If you were allowed just one garden plant, what would it be?Charlie DobbinRichmond Hill, Ont.Owner, Garden Solutions by Charlie DobbinA big tree. It's always 10 degrees cooler under the dense shade of, say, an oak or a maple. And one tree removes 12 kilograms of carbon dioxide from the air, which is equivalent to 18,000 kilometre's worth of car emissions.Jim HoleSt. Albert, Alta.Co-owner, Hole's GreenhousesNothing makes a bolder statement - or evokes more romantic memories of holidays in the sun-than bougainvillea. I keep mine inside in winter and put it outdoors in spring. By early summer, it's covered with some 400 magenta flowers, and blooms until frost.Wilf NichollsSt. John'sDirector, Botanical Garden, Memorial University of NewfoundlandI love alpine pasque flower (Pulsatilla alpina ssp. apiifolia). It nods up with stunning yellow flowers, then leaves behind great big fuzzy knock-your-socks-off seedheads - so don't deadhead it!Des KennedyDenman Island, B.C.Author The noble garlic. Lovely to behold, easy to cultivate, a treasure to taste and spectacularly health-inducing, Allium sativum also has, as old Aristophanes himself testified, the capacity for restoring masculine vigour. When I'm old and possibly in need, I'm sure I'll love it all the more.Robert BatemanSalt Spring Island, B.C.ArtistMoss. I'll do almost anything to encourage its growth. Whether it's on the apple trees in my orchard or old stone walls in Europe, moss lifts my heart. For me, west coast and tropical mossy forests are almost sacred places. Hmm, I hope that's not sacrilegious. Alexander RefordGrand-Métis, Que. Director, The Reford GardensThe Himalayan blue poppy Meconopsis is the most mysterious and exotic non-native plant in our gardens. Yes, it's difficult to grow, but doesn't that add to the adventure? Four weeks of breathtaking glory are worth the trouble.- Credit
- Carol Cowan
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Digging in Digging in
Digging in ofDigging In If you're new to gardening and have decided this is the spring to sink a spade into your first flower bed, you may be thinking: "Yikes, where do I start?" Well, I'm here to help. I remember my first experience with gardening, almost 15 years ago, poking around the yard of the older home my husband and I had just bought, wondering what was going to come up.Back then, I didn't know a forget-me-not from a columbine. I learned by digging in, as I'd had some practice in my mother's garden while growing up, but I had no grand plan, just raw enthusiasm. In fact, I moved plants around so much that my husband joked my perennials ought to have come with wheels instead of roots.So don't worry if you don't have a solid plan for your garden yet – most gardens evolve. Once you've learned a few horticultural basics and discovered what appeals to you, you'll have a better idea of the sort of garden you want to create.The first big step is choosing the proper gardening tools. In fact, well-made tools can often make the difference between frustration and enjoyment, so invest in quality ones, which are usually carried by specialist suppliers.The basicsSpade and shovel• A spade has a narrow, long, squared-off blade for turning soil and marking planting holes; a rounded shovel with a long handle is ideal for planting trees and shrubs.• Look for forged metal heads and handles that fit securely into the shaft.• Hardwood handles should have a varnished finish, fit comfortable in your hands and not feel too heave.• Optional: a digging fork to break up soil clumps,Hand trowel• A small shovel-like hand tool with a sturdy grip; useful for planting annuals, transplanting vegetables and container gardening.Rakes• A stiff-tined metal one for leveling soil and removing small stones, plus a fan-stlye rake to clean up fall leaves.Running shears, or secateurs• For light pruning and cutting back perennials. Look for a bypass model (which has a curved blade that passes by a fixed base), forged steel blades, a strong spring and comfortable handles.• Lopping pruners have longer handles and bigger blades for cutting more substantial branches.For weeding• A standard hoe is perfect for small weeds.• For mulched beds (where soil is covered with a layer of wood chips or straw), use a weeding knife that you push into the ground close to the weed's stem. This will loosen the soil so you can pull out the weed – roots and all. I swear by the Japanese Farmer's Knife from Lee Valley Tools.For moving stuff around• A wheelbarrow or garden cart will spare your back when hauling soil, pots and plants.For creature comfort• A gardener's kneeling pad is more comfortable than strap-on kneepads.• Lightweight, good-quality gardening gloves.• A gardener's tool belt to hold hand tools and seed packets.• Sunscreen and a wide-brimmed hat.Books for beginners:The Garden Primer by Barbara Damrosch, Workman Publishing Company, 688 pages, softcover, $26.95.What Grows Here by Jim Hole, Hole's, 256 pages, softcover, $19.95.Clueless in the Garden: A Guide for the Horticulturally Helpless by Yvonne Cunnington, Key Porter, 200 pages, softcover, $21.95.Gardening for Canadians for Dummies by Liz Primeau, Mike MacCaskey, Bill Marken, John Wiley & Sons, 456 pages, softcover, $29.99.- Credit
- Yvonne Cunnington
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Gardening site of the month Gardening site of the month
Gardening site of the month ofLatest site-of-the-month entries Every month CanadianGardening.com's online consultant, Lorraine Flanigan, selects an outstanding website that is useful to fellow gardeners. Click the links below to see Lorraine's recommendations. SUMMER 2008 - GreatSunflower.orgThere's plenty of buzz about the Great Sunflower Project, which aims to record the number of bees visiting patches of sunflowers around the world in an effort to understand where and how these essential pollinators may need help. Join now. Plant your sunflower seeds and submit (online or mail) counts of bees visiting your backyard this summer.JUNE 2008 - myfolia.comAfter browsing myfolia.com, you could be tossing out your paper-based gardening journal to join the growing web-based community of gardeners—from Australia to Sweden—who are sharing their experiences online. The site features a personal tabbed journal to track your garden's progress, a Q&A forum and a collaborative plant encyclopedia. Myfolia.com is the Facebook for gardeners.MAY 2008 - Grow 'Em's plant propagation databaseStart growing your garden with this online encyclopedia that explains how to propagate from seeds, cuttings and more. From annuals, bulbs and perennials to trees, shrubs and houseplants, Grow 'Em's plant propagation database reveals all. Host and curator Paul Postuma offers advice on general propagation techniques and provides instructions for growing more than 1,000 specific plants, from garden-variety types to exotic plants such as Venus flytraps, prickly pear cacti and eulalia grass. Log on and learn how to grow 'em! FEBRUARY 2008 - CraftyGardener.caHere's a website that will chase away the winter blues. Craftygardener.ca is full of ideas for a host of gardening projects, from recycled barbecue planters to boot racks and grapevine obelisks. If that doesn't keep you busy, browse the gallery of seeds, which includes photos of plant specimens in flower and their seeds and pods, complete with germination instructions and full-colour labels for seed packets and plant tags. Maintained by a Zone 5b gardener, this homespun website is a delight to explore.WINTER 2008 - HeavyPetal.caBilling itself as “gardening: from a West Coast, urban, organic perspective,” heaveypetal.ca is a gardening blog that's fun to read from any point of view. Written by Vancouverite Andrea Bellamy, this personal online journal is a delightful stream of horticultural consciousness. Andrea riffs on topics as diverse as critters and wildlife, green gardening and retail therapy. The site is organized for easy navigation by topic or date, and readers can easily post their comments.OCTOBER 2007 - GardenlineCreated at the University of Saskatchewan, Gardenline is an authoritative online resource for all Canadian gardeners. Fact sheets provide information on everything from houseplants and fruits and vegetables to trees and shrubs, pests and diseases. Canadian Gardening's TransCanada columnist Sara Williams is one of the site's contributors, providing practical information about fertilizers, improving soil drainage and starting seeds.SEPTEMBER 2007 - BugbiosThe Bugbios website introduces an entire world of creepy crawlers. Organized into 14 groups, the site includes descriptions and photos (these could have been labeled to make browsing easier). Most helpful to backyard observers is the butterfly wing pattern identification panel, which makes recognizing a monarch or fritillary a cinch. To further explore the world of bugs, just click on “Entolinks” for a list of other insect-related websites.SUMMER 2007 - BBC Gardening with ChildrenKids the world over dig dirt. And one of the most creative, educational and fun websites for them is BBC Gardening with Children. This website has plenty of online projects as well as ideas for outdoor activities to get youngsters involved and excited about gardening. Each hands-on project, such as caterpillar magic, bug study and daisy chain gang, is presented in an easy-to-follow format. There's also a pestwatch game, pictures to print out and colour, and a fun facts section.MAY 2007 - Davesgarden.comFertile ground for exploring the gardening world, Dave's Garden offers a “tool shed” of some of the best and unique gardening resources available online. Its PlantFiles database provides a wealth of information about 145,835 specimens (most with accompanying images), enriched with visitors' comments. Also included is a Top 10 list of the best plants (and, equally valuable, a mug's gallery of Top 10 thugs). PlantScout is much like the Royal Horticultural Society's plant-finder tool, but teamed with a member-based review of nurseries called Garden Watchdog, it's a helpful resource for finding reliable plant sources. Dave's Garden fosters a community of members that regularly log their gardening comments on the site's journals and blogs, and even provides a “Botanary” dictionary of botanical names as well as a glossary of gardening terms.MARCH 2007 - EnjoyGardening.comPart blog, part information resource, enjoygardening.com is an eclectic source of gardening tidbits. The electronic homebase of Jim Hole of Hole's Greenhouses and Nurseries in Alberta, the site is rich with Jim's musings on diverse horticultural topics, from growing gargantuan cannas to leafhoppers on Virginia creeper. Its garden videos are short and clear, and run the gamut from selecting plants for shade to watering container gardens. An extensive selection of downloadable Pocket Guides-by the late Lois Hole-offers handy plant lists and how-tos on a variety of subjects!FEBRUARY 2007 - Grow 'Em Plant Propagation DatabaseBefore setting seed to potting soil, explore the Grow 'Em Plant Propagation Database. The creation of passionate hobbiest Paul Postuma, this website is a comprehensive resource for advice on making new plants, including sowing, dividing, grafting and taking cuttings. Search by plant name (Abelia to Zinnia) for detailed instructions on the best propagation methods, and click on the handy techniques fact sheets for general information as well as tips on growing media, watering and lighting. Get sprouting with the help of the Grow 'Em website! See previous years' entries DECEMBER 2006 - orchidweb.orgWhether your interest in orchids is a mere passing fancy or an all-consuming passion, the American Orchid Society's OrchidWeb is a captivating resource. Gorgeously illustrated with drool-inducing photos, OrchidWeb is more than a pretty website-it's packed with information for all levels of expertise, from beginner to pro. The monthly checklist provides tips on seasonal tasks for all orchid species; the beginner- and intermediate-level culture sheets supply detailed growing information; and the Orchid Doctor gives general information about dealing with pests and diseases (American Orchid Society members may access more in-depth articles). For gratuitous eye-candy, don't miss the members' gallery of orchid portraits, and if you're lucky enough to be visiting Florida, the society welcomes you to its Visitors Center and Botanical Garden in Delray Beach.OCTOBER 2006 - Garden RantThe weblog Garden Rant is uprooting the gardening world. Or so say its three co-founders, Amy Stewart, Michele Owens and Susan Harris, all dedicated to their manifesto that gardening matters. Daily topics range from the joys of rural living to interviews with nursery owners and opinions on the rights of poison ivy. Browsing the discussion topics list is fun, with cheeky titles such as Ministry of Controversy, Shut Up and Dig, and I Don't Have a Garden but I Watch One on TV. Garden Rant has its pulse on the gardening world and views it through a passionate, and often wacky, lens.AUGUST 2006 - The Garden ConservancySummertime is prime time for road trips, and many travellers head south of the border. Plan a gardening getaway with the help of The Garden Conservancy, a non-profit organization that has been preserving America's finest gardens since 1989. Its website provides the ideal guide to exceptional ones from Arizona to Washington State. The online schedule offers a list of gardens open to the public, organized by location or date, and includes a description and maps and directions on how to get to each one, making trip planning quick and easy. Before you leave, sign up for e-mail alerts to regional opening days and events, then pack your bags, a camera and sunscreen for a great garden-gazing vacation.JUNE 2006 - Coleus FinderColeus Finder is a new online resource dedicated to coleus (Solenostemon scutellarioides) and offers a cornucopia of information about these foliage plants, which have become essential additions to container gardens. The site features a history of the genus, images and articles, as well as an extensive listing of cultivars, which can be downloaded in spreadsheet format. A work-in-progress, future additions will include advice on caring for coleus, propagation techniques and an overview of cultivar groups. The site also invites visitors to vote for their favourite cultivar (‘Palisandra' seems to be the front-runner at the moment) and offers links to discussion forums and seed exchanges. Start a coleus collection this summer-coleusfinder.org makes it easy!MAY 2006 - Home Gardening at National Gardening AssociationYou'll find just about anything garden-related on the Home Gardening at National Gardening Association website, from info on annuals, bulbs and perennials to landscaping and maintenance tips-even cooking, crafts and garden travel. Timely regional reports stretch beyond the borders of this American website to reach Canadian gardeners, highlighting events, websites of note and a checklist of what to do in the garden. Libraries overflowing with Q&As, how-to projects, plant care guides and weed identification resources are yours for the browsing. The site has lots of handy tools too, such as a calculator that helps you adjust the pH in your soil or lets you know how much fertilizer to spread on your lawn.APRIL 2006 - iCanGarden.comiCanGarden.com-growing online for 10 years. Imagine a time when there were no websites for Canadian gardeners. That's what Master Gardener Donna Dawson faced in March of 1996. And on the advice of her husband, Tom (who learned HTML to help her implement the site), she launched iCanGarden.com. Since then, the website's content has grown from a scant listing of horticultural societies, some seed catalogues and a few gardening articles to one of the most comprehensive resources of gardening events, information and supplies available on the Internet. If you garden in Canada, this site's as important and useful as a trusty trowel. Congratulations on your 10th anniversary and thank you for helping all of us to grow.MARCH 2006 - Flower-gardening-made-easy.comChock full of ideas, tips and techniques for creating a beautiful garden, flower-gardening-made-easy.com does just that. Developed by Canadian Gardening columnist Yvonne Cunnington, this author, photographer and lecturer has done much of the spadework for you. There's plenty of information on developing a plan, as well as advice on everything from designing with flower bulbs, roses and wildflowers to dealing with shade and creating a water garden. If that's not enough for you, check out the handy calendar of what to do when – it's a great guide to seasonal tasks.FEBRUARY 2006 - GeoBirds.comIf birdspotting is your passion, you'll want to logon to GeoBirds. This website makes it easy to identify and learn more about the feathered visitors to your garden. Use the BirdBrain ID tool to find a match to any unknown birds you've seen. With a click of the mouse, view a photo and read all about it. Each record is enhanced with distribution maps showing how rare or common the species is to your region. You can post and compare your sightings with others in your area, and browse a field guide of North American birds. The site also features a fun identification game, a birds in the news section, and a soon to be added calendar of events. Don't be a birdbrain, logon to GeoBirds.com.JANUARY 2006 - Landscape-Guide.comWhether you're embarking on a new design for your garden or tackling a single problem area, Landscape-Guide.com offers plenty of good advice. Divided into two modules, landscape and garden design, the site provides articles on a wide range of topics, from discussions on the place of man in the landscape to the principles of plant arrangement, planning for a succession of bloom and how to design with colour. Well organized and easy to navigate, Landscape-Guide.com is an excellent reference for the amateur garden-maker.- Credit
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Fall Gardening Tips Fall Gardening Tips
Fall Gardening Tips ofAdvice on Autumn Tasks To some novice gardeners, it may come as news that autumn - with its garden centre sales, moderate temperatures and plentiful rainfall - is a great time to garden. Before you start readying your patch for winter (see “Seasonal Dos and Don'ts), plant perennials in early fall so they'll have time to establish their root systems (bearded and Siberian irises, peonies and lilies do especially well when planted in autumn). However, avoid planting or dividing ornamental grasses; many are warm-season growers that won't establish if planted in fall. Others that also prefer to be planted in the spring include yews, magnolias, katsura (Cercidiphyllum japonicum), mountain ash (Sorbus), dogwood (Cornus), beech (Fagus), tulip trees (Liriodendron tulipifera), Japanese and red maples (Acer palmatum, A. rubrum), and white oaks (Quercus alba). Another fall ritual is planting bulbs such as tulips, daffodils, crocuses and snowdrops (Galanthus), for spring colour. Tuck them into the ground before hard frosts come and choose big bulbs for larger flowers. Plant in well-drained soil at least six weeks before soil freezes; start with smaller ones (such as snowdrops and crocuses), as they don't keep as well, followed by larger species such as daffodils and tulips. Position bulbs pointed end up, three times deeper than their height (for example, plant a 6.5-centimetre daffodil bulb 20 centimetres deep). Those that don't have an obvious pointed end (or ones you're uncertain about) can be planted sideways; they will right themselves as they grow. Seasonal Dos & Don'ts Seasonal Dos & Don'tsDO cut back finished annuals, diseased plants or any that may take over if allowed to self-seed freely.DO cut back peony, iris and hosta foliage, which can harbour pests and diseases.DON'T cut back perennials too early. Leave some standing through winter, as seed heads and coloured foliage can be beautiful, while seeds feed migrating birds.DO rake and remove leaves from the lawn every week; grass needs sunlight in fall for strong growth in spring. DON'T leave flower beds bare-mulch with fallen leaves. If possible, shred leaves first using a lawn mower.DO continue to water if the weather is dry; perennials and woody types-especially newly planted ones and evergreens, including broadleaf types such as euonymus-need moisture to survive winter. DO use winter mulch to help soil maintain a more even temperature. This helps plants survive where alternating periods of freezing and thawing don't provide consistent snow cover. Lay cut up boughs from Christmas trees on beds to trap snow that might otherwise blow away.Resources:For flowering bulb information, visit www.bulb.com; advice on planting and caring for trees: The Tree Doctor by Daniel and Erin Prendergast, Key Porter, 144 pages, softcover, $26.95. More tips on getting ready for winter: Clueless in the Garden: A Guide for the Horticulturally Helpless by Yvonne Cunnington, Key Porter, 200 pages, softcover, $21.95. See chapter 14 for a list of when to do what in the garden.- Credit
- Yvonne Cunnington
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Elegant espaliered trees Elegant espaliered trees
Elegant espaliered trees ofEspalier framework for year 1 and 2 Over the years, the term “espalier” has come to mean any tree or shrub that has been trained flat against a trellis, wall or other support. The most common form is the double horizontal cordon. It has a single, strong, vertical central stem (called a leader) with horizontal limbs that grow outward from it.Year 1Build or purchase a framework upon which to train the tree, making sure it's large and strong enough to accommodate the plant's mature size, such as a rectangular wooden frame constructed of 2x4s with a central vertical support also made of wood. Starting at 40 centimetres above ground level, space horizontal supports made of strong wire or wooden dowels at 40-centimetre intervals. The frame can be mounted on a fence or wall, or anchored to sunken fence posts.In late autumn or early spring, plant a single-stemmed whip (a one-year-old tree that hasn't developed branches) 10 to 15 centimetres in front of the central support. [step 1] Cut back the leader to the first set of horizontal supports (i.e., 40 centimetres above ground level), leaving three good buds at the top, with the two lower ones pointing in opposite directions.In spring, once the plant has leafed out, tie the shoot growing from the top bud to a small stake affixed vertically to the central support. [step 2] Train the two bottom shoots on either side of the leader to garden stakes secured with ties to the horizontal supports at a 45-degree angle from the central one (training first-year branches at a 90-degree angle retards growth).In autumn, as the leaves fall and the tree goes dormant, remove the stakes and lower the two side branches to 90 degrees. Tie them directly onto the bottom tier of the horizontal supports. Then, prune back the leader to within seven or so centimetres of the top of the second tier, again making sure there are three good strong buds at the top, which will develop into the central leader and two new horizontal arms in Year 2.At this time, lateral branches (the small, twiggy shoots that have emerged from both the leader and the arms of the tree) should also be pruned to the healthiest three buds (or three leaves if they're still present) closest to the next set of horizontal supports. These twigs will then develop into flowering or fruiting spurs. Plants and materials you will need [step 3] Prune the arms of the tree by about one-third their length, cutting just above a downward-facing bud.Year 2 and subsequent years step 4] In spring, train the second tier of branches the same way you did the first tier in Year 1. Continue to cut back any competing lateral growth from the leader and the arms to only three buds. This will produce more fruiting spurs.Once you've trained as many tiers as desired (four to six is average), and the support frame is covered in branches, cut back any new growth that forms at the tips of the arms and prune out the vertical central leader so it's flush with the highest tier.MaterialsStrong wire (plastic-coated clotheslines work well) or 1⁄4" to 1⁄2" wooden dowelsAn assortment of wooden or bamboo plant stakesTies, such as twist-ties or jute twinePlants suitable to espalierApples, Pears, Vinifera-type grapes, Red currantsNote: Fruit trees should be grafted on a dwarf rootstock; otherwise growth becomes rampant.- Credit
- Stephen Westcott-Gratton
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