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Natural lawn care Natural lawn care
Natural lawn care ofManaging your lawn without chemicals As more and more Canadian municipalities ban the cosmetic use of pesticides, many gardeners are left wondering how to manage their lawns without letting them become a haven for dandelions, other weeds and pests. Well, there's good news for these gardeners—and anyone else concerned about pesticide use: almost all lawn problems can be dealt with organically.Michael Pascoe has been caring for 100 acres of turf, without using synthetic chemical pesticides, for the past 15 years at Cuddy Gardens, a private estate garden near London, Ontario. Pascoe is a horticulturist, but he sounds more like a Buddhist monk on the subject of organic maintenance: “If there are problems with your lawn, you need to ask, ‘Why are they there?'”The key is to identify the underlying cause—the “why”—of your ailing grass. Quite often the problem comes down to soil depleted of nutrients and organic matter, and lack of aeration. More good news: autumn is the perfect time to give your lawn an organic pick-me-up, which will get at the root causes of turf traumas and ensure vigour come spring.Organic maintenance in fall basically consists of a trio of tasks: aerating, top dressing and fertilizing. All three will improve your soil, providing a healthy foundation on which your lawn can thrive. (See “The Gentle Approach” on next page)Along with these three practices, there are a few other fall tasks that may be required, depending on how well your grass has come through the rigours of summer, the main challenges being drought, pests and weeds.If, for example, there are bare patches, early fall (six to eight weeks before frost) is a good time to overseed. Rake the soil, sow the seeds, then lightly rake again. Top-dress with a very thin layer (about one centimetre thick) of topsoil; water well, keeping the area moist until seeds sprout and the grass thickens.For pest and weed problems, there are a number of organic products on the market that you can apply in autumn. And here's a heads-up: Lorelei Hepburn, owner of the Ontario-based organic lawn-care company Environmental Factor, predicts that leatherjackets (the larvae of the adult crane fly, which looks like a large mosquito) will be a common pest this fall. She suggests pulling back the sod to look for the greenish brown larvae (see “Sneak Peek” on next page). In early September, there won't be any visible lawn damage yet; however, if it's mid-October, you'll likely see brown patches if there are leatherjackets. It's best to look for these pests in a couple of different places. Another sign of the larvae is the presence of crane flies. If you do find leatherjackets, you can buy beneficial nematodes (microscopic parasites that destroy insect pests such as cutworms and Japanese beetles) to spray on the lawn to control them. Available commercially at select nurseries, nematodes can also be used to control white grubs (the larvae of various beetles), which could be found in the soil at this time as well. Other ideas for improving your lawn A relatively new product making the rounds in organic lawn-care circles is corn gluten meal, a by-product of the milling process for corn. It controls weeds that germinate in the fall, such as black medick, stinkweed and shepherd's purse, by inhibiting seed germination. The only caution is that if you are overseeding your lawn in late summer or early fall, you shouldn't use corn gluten meal for at least four to six weeks after you've spread the seed. If you're not seeding, it can be used any time until Halloween. Think of it as an organic trick for a lawn treat.The gentle approachThe three autumn tasks listed below are essential to maintaining a healthy, organic lawn.Aerating gets oxygen into the soil, helps prevent or reduce thatch and lessens compaction. There are several different aeration tools; which one you use will depend on the size of your lawn. For large areas (say, an acre or more), consider renting a power aerator that lifts cores of soil from the turf. For smaller lawns, a core cultivator (a hand tool) will do the job, as will a pitchfork or forked spade. You'll need to drive the tool into the soil 10 to 15 centimetres deep, wiggle it around, then pull it out. Whichever method you choose, don't worry about the cores dotting the lawn—simply break them up with a rake.Top dressing is a good idea after aerating; compost is the top dressing of choice for the organic lawn. Using sifted compost, rake in enough so that you've added a layer about one centimetre thick over the entire lawn surface. For large areas, you can use a fertilizer spreader to distribute the compost. Within days, it will settle into the soil.Fertilizing is done in early to mid-fall to promote deeper root growth and is good preparation for the winter ahead. It's important to use a fertilizer low in nitrogen so that grass plants don't have an above-ground growth spurt. There are a number of organic lawn fertilizers on the market. Be sure to follow the manufacturer's directions—too much of a good thing is bad; for instance, you could overfeed the grass just before winter, leading to tender growth. As well, excess fertilizer can run into the sewer system.Sneak peekPam Charbonneau, a turfgrass specialist with the Ontario Ministry of Agriculture, Food and Rural Affairs, suggests a non-destructive way to look for leatherjackets and other grubs under the grass: use a sharp knife to cut three sides of a 30-centimetre square, 7.5 centimetres deep. Then, simply fold back the turf and have a look. The grass mat can be folded back into place, with no permanent damage.- Credit
- Lorraine Johnson
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Care-free lawns Care-free lawns
Care-free lawns ofLooking for tough, self-maintaining lawns There's a revolution brewing in the world of lawns. The bell has tolled for the well-manicured, herbicide- and pesticide-laden grasses of the last 50 years. Gardeners and researchers are looking for tough, no-nonsense lawns that will be nearly self-maintaining and without pesticides, to boot.The main ingredient of most lawn mixtures in Canada is Kentucky bluegrass (Poa pratensis). This fine-leafed grass is pretty but very high-maintenance, requiring frequent mowing, fertilizing and watering. It is also the only grass currently used in sod production in Canada. Although laying sod is the easiest way to get a lawn (seed-sown lawns take far greater effort to install), afterwards, bluegrass carpets demand all the intensive care we have come to expect from a lawn.Gardeners looking for an easy way out can, however, turn to seed mixes that need less maintenance. While more labour-intensive to install than sod, mixes such as No Mow Lawn Mix from Prairie Nursery, Low Maintenance Lawn Mixture from Ontario Seed Company and Bio-Tourbe from Labon Inc. contain little or no bluegrass seed. They are blends of different fescues (hard, sheep and red creeping), often dwarf cultivars, with a fair amount of fast-growing but short-lived perennial ryegrass mixed in to act as filler while the slower fescues set up shop. These grasses require much less care.Although their labels may suggest they need no mowing at all or only one mowing each fall, that's only true if you're looking for more of a meadow than a lawn, as most reach 45 centimetres or more. For lawns billed as no-mow, you'll still need to cut them to about 10 centimetres high when seed heads first appear in early summer, then again whenever they reach 15 centi-metres, which can be as often as once a month.Fescues aren't as wear-resistant as bluegrass but are more shade tolerant. There aren't, however, any really good lawn grasses for deep shade; groundcovers are your best bet in such sites.While you're shopping for low-maintenance lawn seed, make sure to purchase endophyte-enhanced varieties. Endophytes are beneficial fungi that live in certain grasses and help them absorb water and fertilizer more efficiently. Endophytes also produce a bitter alkaloid that insects don't like, making endophyte-enhanced grasses highly resistant to leaf-feeding insects, such as billbugs, chinch bugs, sod webworms and fall army worms, even deer and other mammals. Endophyte-enhanced grasses are also less prone to disease than regular grasses. Unusual alternatives to green lawn Endophytic fungi are found naturally in many strains of fescue and ryegrass, and already inhabit grass seed harvested from these strains. Seed mixes selected for their high levels of endophytes are widely available and only slightly more expensive than regular blends.Since storage under hot, dry conditions destroys endophytes in grass seed, use only fresh seed from a reputable dealer and buy only as much as you need.Stores are full of cheaper grass seed mixtures that will give a quick green-up, but their long-term results can be disappointing. Always look for endophyte-enhanced blends that list cultivar names for individual lawn grasses in the mixture (‘Silhouette' chewing fescue and ‘Repell II' perennial ryegrass, for example).Of course, there is no rule that lawns can only be composed of grasses. White clover is an interesting lawn seed ingredient. Long a staple in any lawn mix (about 15 per cent of the mix), it increases nitrogen content in soil, remains green during severe drought and requires little mowing. Many lawn mixtures that are termed “ecological” contain mostly endophyte-enhanced grasses and clover, as well as low-growing perennial flowers such as dwarf yarrow (Achillea millefolium cvs.), double bird's foot trefoil (Lotus corniculatus cvs.), sea pinks (Armeria maritima cvs.) and English daisies (Bellis perennis cvs.).Even top-quality, low-maintenance grass seed will falter if the soil is not properly prepared. If you're starting a lawn from scratch, pour on at least 15 centimetres of weed-free, rich, water-retentive soil. If the original soil is mostly construction debris or hard clay, you could need up to 30 centimetres. Good drainage is also essential: tiles or a bit of a slope would be ideal. Always sprinkle on a light dusting of mycorrhizal fungi, according to the suppliers' instructions, before sowing or laying sod. Mycorrhizes are another beneficial fungi, living outside the plant, acting somewhat like root extensions and improving its ability to absorb fertilizer and water.A PRAIRIE PERSPECTIVEPrairie gardeners will find low-maintenance lawn mixes quite well adapted to their growing conditions-prolonged drought, mid- winter desiccation and extremely cold temperatures-as they're largely composed of fescues, which are resistant to drought and cold. Jim Ross, operations manager for Prairie Turfgrass Research Centre, recommends taking a look at the varietal trials on the PTRC Web site for information about grass cultivars particularly suited to specific Prairie conditions. For example, ‘Dawson' and ‘Seabreeze' creeping red fescues and the native blue grama grass (Bouteloua gracilis) are good choices where high soil salinity is a problem.- Credit
- Larry Hodgson
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Electric lawnmower tune-up Electric lawnmower tune-up
Electric lawnmower tune-up ofSteps 1 - 3 A long winter is a fact of life. But you don't have to hibernate along with your tulips—take advantage of the down-time to tune up your electric lawnmower, so you're set to go when the grass is green and growing. An annual tuneup is not only important to the health and appearance of your grass, it increases the longevity of your mower. "A mower lasts twice as long if you maintain it," says Wesley Gray, owner of Small Appliance Repair Service in Scarborough, Ontario. Gray has been servicing lawnmowers since he first started working, about 30 years ago, at what was then his father's business. "A dull blade, and debris in the motor's air vents, for example, cause unnecessary wear on the motor," he says. Following is his checklist for a do-it-yourself tuneup.Step 1Your lawnmower should be unplugged before you work on it'and the plug is a good place to start your inspection. Make sure the prongs are straight and secure. Prongs can be straightened with pliers; if they're loose replace the plug. Then check the length of your cord for nicks or cuts. (Never use an extension cord longer than 100 feet/30 metres'the motor runs harder and could burn out.) The section of cord that runs from the switchbox on the handle down into the motor frequently gets pinched when mowers are stored. If you have a tear in the wire's casing, wrap the area with electrical tape. (If the inner wires are severed, replace the cord.)Step 2Next, clear out the air-vent slots for the motor. Remove the housing over the motor and brush away any grass or debris; for a more thorough job, use a vacuum cleaner. 'Sometimes you'll see what looks like a bird's nest sitting in there,' Gray says. Without air to cool it, the motor may overheat and burn out. Before you put the housing back on, place three or four drops of 3-in-1 oil in the small opening on the top of the motor.Step 3Electric lawnmowers have two carbon blocks, called brushes, that act as electrical conductors for the motor. The length of the carbon brushes should be longer than their width. "They wear down with use, like pencil leads," Gray says."If they're more short than wide, it's time to replace them." Some slide out quite easily; others require disassembly. Consult your owner's manual for specifics. New brushes are available at lawnmower service shops. Steps 4 - 6 Step 4Time to turn the machine on its side to check the blade. If it's bent or cracked, replace it; otherwise, you need to sharpen it. "If the blade is dull, it hacks at the grass instead of slicing it," Gray says, 'and it makes the motor run harder.' First remove the blade'there's usually a nut or bolt that holds it in place. To sharpen, use a hand file or sharpening stone (available at hardware stores) and start with five strokes on each side of the blade, filing from the centre of the blade out to the edge. 'You're not trying to put a knife edge on the blade,' says Gray. "The point is to file down any nicks so there's a straight line across the cutting edge. If you need to file more than one-quarter of the blade's width to do this, it's time to replace the blade." It's a good idea to always have a replacement blade on hand, and you can use it as a guide for sharpening your old one. Take the used one with you to a hardware store or a repair shop so you get the right size.Before reinstalling the blade, check to see that it's filed the same amount on each side. Place the tip of a screwdriver through the bolt hole in the blade. Hold the blade at eye level. If it tilts to one side, file the leaning edge more, until it doesn't tilt. Reinstall the blade and ensure the bolt is tight. Give the blade a spin with your hand to make sure nothing obstructs its rotation, and also listen for grinding or squeaking noises'this could indicate a problem with the bearings or obstruction in the motor, which means a trip to a repair shop.Step 5The wheels on most lawnmowers are adjustable to control the height of the grass. For the first cut of the season, set at the highest level so you avoid stones and other debris left over from winter that might not be visible. Be sure all four wheels are at the same height, or you'll get a ragged cut.Step 6Make sure all nuts, bolts and screws on the lawnmower are fastened tightly. Working from the top down, check the fasteners holding the switchbox together and to the handle, those securing the handle to the body, any holding the housing down, the grass catcher and those on the wheels. Check all fasteners periodically over the season'the vibration of a lawnmower during use may cause some to come loose.- Credit
- Allan Britnell
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