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Deer-proof your garden Deer-proof your garden
Deer-proof your garden ofA Peaceful Co-Existence They were roses fit for a queen. Queen Elizabeth II to be precise. Before her 2002 visit to Canada, the roses in the garden at Government House in Victoria were ready and waiting, that is until the deer came and raided the garden.Deer not only have an appetite for roses (along with many other flowers) but increasingly they are satisfying their appetites in our gardens.Suburban Victoria is a favourite haunt, as is Winnipeg, where wildlife experts estimate there are three to four hundred of the animals within the city limits. Deer populations are even higher in the western half of Ottawa and neighbouring Lanark county. According to Christie Curley, area biologist with the Ontario Ministry of Natural Resources, about 18,000 deer roam that region, the highest number since the 1950s.Regardless of rising or falling deer populations (reproduction cycles, weather and food patterns all affect the numbers), gardeners are encountering these beautiful creatures more frequently. “Our interaction with wildlife is increasing because of the expanding urban-rural fringe,” explains Bruce Hesselink, wildlife habitat technician with Agriculture Canada in Indian Head, Saskatchewan.As we move further into deer habitat, they go searching for the nearest salad bar: our gardens. On average, a deer can eat two to 4.5 kilograms of vegetation in one day.In spring, when they come out of their wintering areas, deer want young, tender grass or herbaceous greenery. In summer, they'll graze-roses, a bed of petunias, a few tomatoes perhaps. In winter, they'll munch on woody shrubs and trees, or hoist themselves up on their hind legs to check out the contents of the bird feeder.These insatiable, easy-to-please dinner guests also tend to be adaptable, stubborn and creatures of habit. If they pay one visit to your garden, you'll probably end up on their regular route. Experts all agree that you need to give them the brush-off quickly and decisively. But how?It's tricky, according to Christie. “Deer are clever and become accustomed to whatever you use to repel them,” she says. “That's what makes it so frustrating.”There are probably as many suggested solutions as there are gardeners in Canada; here's what some had to say on the topic.You could try growing deer-resistant plants (see “Close the Kitchen”). The problem with that, says Louise McCann, a potter who gardens in Dundas, Ontario, is “the deer haven't read the list.” When it's cold and deer are starving, they become desperate and less picky about the menu, says Louise. It's a sentiment echoed by Sheryl McFarlane, a children's author who gardens on Denman Island, British Columbia. “Deer aren't supposed to like heather, but they trashed mine,” she says.To complicate matters, Bambi's taste varies from region to region. What works in Dundas might not work on Denman. Check to see what's untouched in your neighbour's yard.Deer repellents have limited success as deterrents. Area repellents are applied on or near plants and repel by smell, while contact repellents, considered somewhat more effective, are applied directly onto plants and repel by taste. Most contain natural ingredients such as rotten egg solids or dried blood to discourage the animals. Generally, they don't harm plants, although one gardener did report minor shrub damage from using them. All repellents should be applied early in the season before deer get into the habit of visiting your yard. Most products will need to be reapplied to take into account weather and new growth. Always follow manufacturer's directions.A PEACEFUL CO-EXISTENCETake a tip from the gardeners at the herb garden in Winnipeg's Assiniboine Park. Seeing that the deer were munching their way through a variety of plants, the gardeners decided to ring the garden with ‘Osaka' kale. “[The deer] ate it and left the herb garden alone,” says Anne Jackson. “It looked pretty and it worked so well, we'll try it again this year.”Brenda Sutherland, who gardens at Earth Bound Perennials and Herbs on the Bruce Peninsula in Ontario, has learned to co-exist with a host of wildlife, including deer. “We purposely leave large piles of compost on the outer boundaries of the land, which lets them feed and discourages them from coming into our developed garden area.” She also plants sacrificial offerings such as calendula and clover along the perimeter of the garden, where deer can graze without being harassed by her dogs. Growing Deer-Resistant Plants There are only four deer repellents currently registered for use in Canada: Tree Guard, Skoot, Deer-Away and Plantskydd. Gardeners also create their own repellents consisting of everything from rotten eggs or garlic to soap (see “Home Brew” recipe below). Try hanging bags of human hair in strategic areas in the yard (gardeners report mixed results) or bars of soap (the stronger smelling, the better), which seem to be more effective. “Deer were nipping the tops off our one-year-old saplings,” says Sid Dykstra of Dykstra Orchards in Blue Mountains, Ontario. “So we hung pieces of soap on the trees, especially around the perimeter of the orchard. It kept the deer away for two years.” Louise says soap bars hung in nylon stockings around her garden kept the deer away until the weather turned cold in fall; then they got too hungry to mind the soap.There are a number of high-tech deer-scare devices available utilizing motion-sensitive lights and sprinklers, but most are manufactured in the U.S. When exchange, shipping and duty are factored in, the cost can be prohibitive. Alternatively, you could try scaring them away with a homemade scarecrow or by blasting them with a hose. The latter requires perfect timing and a certain measure of hard-heartedness. Even then, it may only work for a while. Deer adapt quickly to such things, especially if they don't feel threatened.Pat Garrity knows that from first-hand experience with a homemade noise system. “I tried jingling bells and aluminum cans filled with pebbles on strings,” says Pat, who gardens at her cottage in Kenora, Ontario. “But deer wiped out my tomatoes and even dug up my carrots. I'm leaving a radio on now.”Sound can be a deterrent, but if it's steady, it may just become white noise for the deer. A dog is the best noisemaker; at the very least it will alert you to a deer's presence. A dog's bark is unpredictable and the dog's lingering scent can act as an area repellent.The most expensive option to protect your garden is also the most likely to succeed. Fence them out. Electric “bait and shock” fences have been successful for apple growers in both Ontario and B.C. Deer are baited with peanut butter wrapped in foil. When they come to snack, they get a shock and don't return.If you're a dedicated do-it-yourselfer and have some basic understanding of electric circuits and fence construction, follow the lead of John Wilcox and make your own. “I run two strands of electric fencing about waist-high and attach them to rebar posts around the garden,” says John, who gardens at Duck Creek Farm on Salt Spring Island, B.C. “And I get most of my materials through farm and feed stores or even garden supply outlets.”An alternative is a tall fence-at least 2.5 metres high. “Anything lower and they'll jump,” warns Robert K. Bruce, problem wildlife technician with the Wildlife and Ecosystem Protection Branch of Manitoba Conservation. Christie agrees, and adds that slats or mesh in the fence should be relatively close together. Any openings larger than 30 centimetres will allow deer to squeeze through.Both Louise McCann and Carolyn Herriot, owner of the Garden Path Nursery in Victoria, swear by the 2.5-metre-high black mesh fencing from Benner's Gardens in New Hope, Pennsylvania. Mesh fencing is almost invisible and, because it's relatively lightweight, generally easier to install than wood fencing.A lower fence placed close to large shrubs often acts as a deterrent since deer have to leap and don't want to land in a tangle. Another option is temporary fencing around specific beds or shrubs. “I had to mesh in my Arbutus seedlings to stop deer from eating the new shoots,” says Sheryl McFarlane. “Once the trees were tall enough, I took the mesh away.”Arbutus, ironically, are supposed to be deer-resistant. Young, tender saplings, however, are a favourite treat. Which just goes to show, nothing is entirely immune from Bambi.CLOSE THE KITCHENGardeners who deal with deer more often than they'd like say there's no such thing as a deer-proof plant. Rather, there are deer-resistant plants. These are often plants with thorns, fuzzy or leathery leaves, or a strong taste. However, as food sources wane, so do the deer's standards. Plants they might normally avoid get munched. Flowering red twig dogwood, for instance, appears on several deer-resistant lists, but damage to Louise McCann's dogwood was what drove her to fence her property.As for the plants deer love, there are many. And no self-respecting deer would walk away from roses, tulips, grass or newly planted annuals.Here are some of the plants deer generally avoid: Allium, Mugwort (Artemesia, most species except A. lactiflora), Barberry (Berberis), Bee balm (Monarda), Bleeding heart (Dicentra), Boxwood (Buxus), Columbine (Aquilegia), Daffodils (Narcissus), Daphne, Daylilies (Hemerocallis), Ferns (most species), Forsythia, Foxglove (Digitalis), Christmas rose (Helleborus niger), Holly (Ilex) and other prickly plants such as some species of cactus; Lambs' ears (Stachys byzantina) and other fuzzy-leafed plants such as sage; lady's mantle and sunflowers, Lilac (Syringa), Monkshood (Aconitum) and other poisonous plants such as lily-of-the-valley and castor bean plant (Ricinus communis), pine (Pinus), spirea (Spiraea), Spruce (Picea) and wisteria. Strongly scented and resinous herbs such as rosemary, oregano, thyme, lavender and sage. Importing Other Repellants HOME BREWThe province of Manitoba has a homeowners' guide to managing deer posted on its Web site. Included is this recipe for a homemade repellent that's environmentally friendly and doesn't harm deer. Mix one tablespoon (15 millilitres) of liquid dish detergent with one ounce (28 grams) of hot sauce in one quart (1.1 litres) of water. Sprinkle on plants that deer are likely to find appealing.IMPORTING REPELLENTSWith the limited number of registered deer repellents available in Canada, some gardeners import products from the U.S. “I ordered coyote urine that came at the price of a very fine wine,” says Louise McCann, who gardens in Ontario. It amused her neighbours tremendously and discouraged the deer until the drive for food became stronger than the fear of coyotes.Bringing any pest control product over the border is jointly regulated by the Canada Customs and Revenue Agency and the Canadian Food Inspection Agency and falls under the Pest Control Products category.According to the legislation, importation is strictly prohibited for commercial use. However, chemical pest control products or devices not registered in Canada may be imported for personal use if the total quantity does not exceed 500 grams by mass or 500 millilitres by volume and the monetary value doesn't exceed $10.For more details, contact information services for the Pest Management Regulatory Agency at 800/267-6315.SOURCESBlack mesh fencing: Benner's Gardens, 201 Fayette St., Conshohock, Pennsylvania 19428; 800/244-3337.Electric fences: Blitz Enterprises.Motion-activated sprinkler: Scarecrow, Contech Electronics.Repellents:- Credit
- Laura Langston
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Control your invasive plant thugs Control your invasive plant thugs
Control your invasive plant thugs ofMany plants can become garden thugs, given the chance Many plants can become garden thugs, given the chanceYou've watered them, fed them and coddled them. And now they're taking over-sending out tendrils, dropping their seed everywhere and generally bullying their adopted siblings into submission wherever and whenever they can get away with it.Given the opportunity and the right conditions, some plants can become garden thugs, greedily appropriating more than their rightful share of light, air and space.Like most responsible guardians, you'll probably wonder how one of your charges grew to be so aggressive. Did you unwittingly purchase an invasive plant from a garden centre? Or, perhaps someone gave you a problem child (people rarely give away slowly reproducing plants, but they're happy to share those that multiply freely). Sometimes the potential bullies even come with a veiled warning.Years ago my father was digging out a patch of overgrown tawny daylilies (Hemerocallis fulva). I asked if I could have some. “You can have them,” he said, “but you'll be sorry.” He was right. Even a decade later my daylily patch requires constant thinning so that it doesn't completely overwhelm the adjacent poppies and peonies in the border.And while most garden thugs are attractive, making them hard to resist, I now realize that descriptions such as “soil should be of poor or average fertility,” “drought-resistant,” “makes a great groundcover” or “is a low-maintenance plant” are actually tip-offs that they are potentially invasive. All of these “warnings” refer to several plants in my garden that would happily take over the whole place (or fight each other to the finish) if I let them, including my beloved columbines (Aquilegia spp.). Do not invite more aggressive plants Most non-native species we introduce to our gardens pose no threat to natural plant communities. But some invasive species such as purple loosestrife have spread so quickly and widely—often carried by birds or the wind—they've begun to threaten the existence of endangered native species and biological communities. And plants can be invasive in certain parts of the country and not in others. For example, English ivy is a pest in British Columbia but not across most of Ontario.Gardeners can help control the spread of invasive plants by not introducing new invasive species. Here's how.• Use native plants. When you choose a plant native to your area, you likely won't be unleashing the next invasive menace. Learn what native species can be used in place of exotics. There's almost always an alternative. For example: use blazing star (Liatris spicata) instead of the now-illegal purple loosestrife.• Plant hybrids. The majority of showy garden hybrids developed by breeders are safe to grow, as they don't self-seed.• Use plants native to other North American regions with similar climates and growing conditions.• If you still decide to choose an exotic, make sure it's a non-invasive species such as peony, petunia or forsythia.For more information on invasive plants see Invasive Species or Royal Botanical Gardens web sites.Still, there are steps a gardener can take to control a plant's unacceptable behaviour. Here are some tips for taming garden bullies.Deadhead: Remove all flower heads as they fade to limit the offspring of many would-be parent plants. Coneflower (Echinacea) and black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia hirta) can produce thousands of seeds in a season. Pulling out or hoeing seedlings, in combination with deadheading, will usually control the majority of rampant self-seeders—including yarrow, lambs' ears (Stachys byzantina) and spurge.Cut them down: Mow or shear back hard after flowering to temper shallow-rooted plants such as periwinkle (Vinca minor), spotted deadnettle (Lamium maculatum cvs.), soapwort (Saponaria officinalis) and sweet woodruff (Galium odoratum). More tips for taming garden bullies More tips for taming garden bullies Don't spoil them: Most thugs do well in poor soil with little maintenance, but if you pamper plants such as spurge or evening primrose (Oenothera spp.) with more water and fertilizer, they'll become invasive.Pull, pull, pull: The only way to control some plants is to physically pull out new shoots, roots and all. Although hard work, relentless pulling will eventually eliminate most bullies. This is effective for controlling tawny daylilies, lambs' ears, dame's rocket (Hesperis matronalis), common violets and English ivy (Hedera helix), and for seedlings of European cranberry bush (Viburnum opulus) and Tatarian honeysuckle (Lonicera tatarica).Mulch: Thorough mulching prevents seeds from touching bare soil. Cover the ground with a three- to five-centimetre layer of non-living material such as hay, straw, grass clippings, wood chips or black plastic film to also deprive seeds of light, which they need in order to germinate.Relocate: Find a place in your garden where a plant's rampant tendencies are an asset. A friend of mine, for example, used to hate trumpet vine (Campsis radicans) until she put its rapidly rambling nature to good use by trailing it over an arbour. Site would-be bullies in rock gardens or on slopes, where they can help control soil erosion. Evening primrose, snow in summer (Cerastium tomentosum) and spotted deadnettle may be too aggressive for the perennial border but just right for a hot or dry-shade area where little else will survive. My sister has a lovely, well-behaved, narrow border of goutweed—perhaps the worst offender of all—with tawny daylilies growing in poor soil, surrounded by asphalt on one side and a cement wall on the other.Contain them: Some plants should be grown in pots to contain them; herbs such as mint, thyme and marjoram are good examples. To control horizontal spreading of Artemisia—particularly western mugwort (A. ludoviciana ‘Silver King' and ‘Silver Queen') and A. stelleriana—plant it in a bottomless (for good drainage) container sunk into the ground up to rim level.Harvest early: Pick herbs in mid-June before plants flower, and pinch off any regrowth before it has a chance to go to seed.Reward good behaviour: Plant less invasive cultivars of thuggish species such as ‘Miss Manners', a clumping, non-spreading, white form of obedient plant (Physostegia virginiana), ‘Bressingham' soapwort or clumping bamboo, such as Fargesia spp.Bring out the big guns: If a non-chemical solution will work for you, use it. But sometimes a chemical, such as glyphosate (marketed as Roundup or Rodeo), is the only sure way to stop aggressors such as Tatarian honeysuckle, Japanese barberry, European cranberry bush or even periwinkle. Make sure the herbicide you're buying is effective on the species you want to kill; follow directions exactly.And finally, before you accept a gift from someone else's garden, keep in mind that if they have too many of whatever it is, chances are before long, you will too.- Credit
- Lorraine Hunter
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Is it a weed or not? Is it a weed or not?
Is it a weed or not? ofThe curse of weeds Not many gardeners would agree with James Russell Lowell's description of a weed as “no more than a flower in disguise.” Weeds aren't a total curse: some attract beneficial insects, some add organic matter to the soil and those with deep roots break up compacted soil, while other weeds, such as dandelions, are even harvested for salad greens. The seemingly never-ending job of weeding makes you wonder where the heck they all come from. No sooner do you pull one out when up pops another.Broadly speaking, a weed is any plant growing where it's not wanted. For most gardeners, that usually means plants that are invasive, or ones that harbour pests or diseases harmful to desirable plants. But in certain circumstances, it can also mean trees (Norway maple), shrubs (European buckthorn), vines (oriental bittersweet), bulbs (wild garlic) or herbaceous plants (borage).Trying to distinguish weeds from desirable plants can be perplexing, especially at the seedling stage. Books such as Weeds of Canada and the Northern United States, by France Royer and Richard Dickinson (Lone Pine Publishing and the University of Alberta Press), are helpful guides to identification, but there are on-site clues as well. Soil is one: desirable plants tend to self-sow readily in gravel or light, sandy soils; weeds prefer poor soil. Speed of germination is another: if it came up lightning fast—almost overnight—it's probably a weed. How are the plants distributed? Randomly and in a mixed pattern, resemblng a native, planted meadow? It's likely a weed. And one more clue: weeds are hard to remove; plants that practically fall over with the slightest tug are probably the real McCoy. Still can't tell? Try smelling the plant: weeds, particularly their broken stems, have a green, decidedly weedy smell—rank to some, but to my nose, similar to that of a mowed field.As part of their survival strategy, weeds produce abundant seed—often with a tough coat that increases viability. If conditions are not good for germination one year, seeds lying in the soil may germinate the following year or even the year after. To prove seed longevity, botanist William Beal began an experiment in 1879 that continues today. He buried 20 pint jars—each containing sand and 1,000 common weed seeds—at the University of Michigan. Initially, some jars were opened every five years and their seeds tested for viability: the interval has since been lengthened to every 20 years. One jar was unearthed after being buried for 120 years and its seeds planted, resulting in a vigorous group of 26 seedlings of moth mullein.Weeds also adapt well to adverse conditions, so it's important to understand their life cycles to identify and eradicate them effectively. Annuals, such as crabgrass, lamb's quarters and ragweed, complete their life cycle in one season, growing from seed in the spring, then flowering and producing copious amounts of seed before dying. One ragweed plant can produce 117,000 seeds in a single year. The common groundsel ensures reproduction by a different means: the ability to bloom even when temperatures are below freezing.Plants such as Queen Anne's lace, mullein and burdock are biennial weeds. They die at the end of the second year, after they have flowered and set seed. Control them before they take control of your garden Perennial weeds, such as bindweed, dandelion, nutsedge and quack grass, are the most persistent, resilient and toughest to control. Dig often and dig deep!Certain weeds favour specific types of soils. Stinging nettle only grows where soil is nutritious, especially where nitrogen and phosphorus are plentiful. Most weeds, however, grow best in poor, nutrient-deficient soil-thyme-leafed spurge will even grow at the edge of a lawn beside an asphalt driveway, while dandelion grows well in compacted soils low in calcium and high in phosphorus. Weeds such as plantain and prostrate knotweed have special roots to deal with excessively compacted soil. Another group of weeds, called “pioneers” because they're the first to recolonize after a fire, includes fireweed, which thrives on the nitrates found in ashes.There are many ways to tackle a weeding problem. For large areas you can use an old-fashioned hoe, but in small areas it's best to weed by hand or with a trowel so desirable plants nearby are not damaged.To make weeding easier, water the day before to moisten the soil. Hoe on a dry, sunny day so that small seedlings will bake when they're uprooted. A Dutch hoe, circle hoe or swoe slices off weed seedlings or young weeds just below ground level.When removing a mature weed manually, you must get the entire root to be successful. Use a cultivator to loosen the soil around large weeds; then pull them straight out. Use a garden fork, not a spade, to weed a border. A fork keeps weed roots intact; a spade slices right through them, leaving behind pieces that might regrow—purslane, for example, regrows from very small pieces. Remember to check after a few days and get any ones you missed.Black plastic or mulches smother weeds by removing light and air. Other remedies such as boiling water, steam irons, mechanical wallpaper strippers, hot-air paint strippers or propane torches have their advocates as well.The saying "One year's seed gives seven years of weeds" is true. One important key to successful weed control is to remove weeds (or at least the seed pods) before the seeds ripen. Cut down those weed-forming seed pods with a line trimmer, hedge shears, hand pruners or lawn mower.An innovative weed-control strategy is to use natural insect predators, moths, micro-organisms, parasitic fungi or disease spores to fight weeds. Research is being done on the abilities of certain plants to control weeds by releasing toxins into the soil. Quack grass is highly effective for this, but sorghum, sunflowers and some types of cucumbers also have this ability. Who knows? The weeds of today could be an integral part of the weed killers of tomorrow. List of common weeds Annual sow thistle (Sonchus asper)A prolific annual from Europe, it has ovate, shiny cotyledons (the first two seed leaves) with a mid-vein on the underside. Each plant can produce 26,000 seeds in one season that are viable for up to eight years. Remove with a hoe or garden fork; wear gloves.Common burdock (Arctium minus)A biennial from northern Europe, it has elliptical, dull green cotyledons with a purplish green stem below. Mainly found around the garden perimeter as an established plant, it has to be removed with a garden fork to get the entire root. Roots are dense and hold their ground.Lamb's quarters (Chenopodium album)An annual from Europe, it has oblong cotyledons with fleshy undersides and pink to purple stems. Young plants can be steamed and eaten like spinach. Easily removed with a hoe.Canada thistle (Cirsium arvense)A perennial from France, it has ovate, stalkless, hairless cotyledons and an underground root system that may be more than 30 centimetres below the surface. Older, well-established plants could have as many as 200 nodes for sending up new plants, so every single piece of root must be removed. Seeds can last for 21 years in the soil, but must be near the surface to germinate. One plant can produce an astounding 40,000 seeds or so each year.Field bindweed (Convolvulus arvensis)A perennial from Europe, it has long-stalked, heart- or kidney-shaped cotyledons. Seeds can live up to 50 years in the soil, and roots can be as deep as nine metres and travel 30 metres; remove all root pieces with a garden fork.Pineapple weed (Matricaria matricarioides)A native annual that smells like a pineapple when crushed, it has spatula-shaped, short-stalked cotyledons. Use a hoe to chop down the seedlings.Yellow nut sedge (Cyperus esculentus)A perennial native to North America, it has cotyledons that resemble grass and an easily identifiable triangular stem. New plants are formed from underground tubers. Remove the entire plant while young to avoid leaving the tubers behind—in one growing season, a single tuber can produce almost 2,000 new plants and spread two metres. This plant can only overwinter as a tuber in the upper 15 centimetres of soil if temperatures are above –7C.Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale)A perennial from Europe, it has ovate, hairless cotyledons. Use a dandelion weeder or trowel to dig out, or a broadleaf herbicide for large areas.Purslane (Portulaca oleracea)An annual from southern Europe or northern Africa, it has succulent cotyledons that are tinged bright red. Pieces of the stem will root if broken. Dig out carefully and completely.Poison ivy (Rhus radicans)A perennial native to North America, it has cotyledons with a single, vertical stem. Use non-selective herbicides to control. Small plants can be carefully dug out with a trowel, but wear gloves and wash everything with soap and water afterwards—85 per cent of the population is allergic to its sap.Common groundsel (Senecio vulgaris)An annual from Europe, it has oblong, hairless cotyledons with prominently grooved stalks. Use a hoe.Common plantain (Plantago major)An annual, biennial or perennial from Europe that has invaded gardens almost to the Arctic Circle, it has spatula-shaped cotyledons with three faint veins. Use a broadleaf herbicide in lawns or dig out with a trowel.- Credit
- Anne Marie Van Nest
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Identifying garden pests Identifying garden pests
Identifying garden pests ofIdentifying garden pests What's bugging you?If garden pests are driving you to crazy and spoiling your garden fun, check out the pest identification centre nearest you. For a reasonable fee they can help you choose the best treatment for controlling them.AlbertaEdmonton area: Pest Management LabRiver Valley, Forestry and Environmental Services, Box 2359, Edmonton Alta., T5J 2R7. Will also refer to labs in other areas.British ColumbiaPlant Diagnostic LabB.C. Ministry of Agriculture, Food and Fisheries, Abbotsford Agriculture Centre, 1767 Angus Campbell Rd., Abbotsford BC, V3G 2M3; 604-556-3126.ManitobaThere are four regional offices and 39 district offices, call 204-239-3375 for the one nearest you; www.gov.mb.ca/agriculture/contact/agoffices.htmlNew BrunswickNB Agricultural LabNB Dept. Of Agriculture and Rural Development, P.O. Box 6000, Fredericton, NB E3B 5H1; Plant Industry Branch, Department of Agriculture, Box 6000, Fredericton, NB E3B 5H1; 506-453-2108.Newfoundland and LabradorAtlantic Cool Climate Crop Research Centre308 Brookfield Rd., Box 39088, St. John's, Nfld., A1E 5Y7; 709-772-4619.Nova ScotiaApiculturist/EntomologistNova Scotia Department of Agriculture & Fisheries, Plant Industry Branch, Agricultural Centre, Kentville, NS B4N 1J5; 902-679-6043.OntarioBiological Control LaboratoryDepartment of Environmental Biology, University of Guelph, Guelph, Ont., N1G 2W1; 519-824-4120.Prince Edward IslandP.E.I Depatment of AgricultureBox 1600, Research Station, Charlottetown PEI C1A, 7N3; 902-368-5619.QuebecRené Martineau InsectariumLaurentian Forestry Centre, 1055 du P.E.P.S., Box 3800, Sainte-Foy, PQ, G1V 4C7; 418)-648-5262.SaskatchewanSaskatchewan Agriculture and Food3085 Albert St, Regina, Sask., S4S 0B1; 306-787-5140.- Credit
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August/September 2008
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