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Indoor-Outdoor Bench Indoor-Outdoor Bench
Indoor-Outdoor Bench ofMaking a garden bench There's nothing like an old-fashioned wooden bench to bring back memories. While travelling around Canada, I see them everywhere, proving that they fill all sorts of needs and they last almost forever. I've even seen reproduction benches tagged at $150 and up, though you've got to wonder who buys them, considering how easy they are to build. My version of this old classic keeps to the original virtues of simplicity and strength; the qualities that make this pine bench so popular. ConstructionsSince chair height is typically 18", I made my bench the same height. Start by cutting two legs to length, then, in the centre of each one, mark a point 5" up from the bottom. This is where you'll be drilling a 1¼"-diameter hole that accents the top of each leg cutout. Before you drill, draw two lines beginning from the point you just marked down to the bottom of each leg, 2¼" from each side. This outlines the all-important V-shaped leg cutouts. I used a Forstner bit (which creates a flat-bottomed hole) to drill the hole at the top of each leg cutout. Put a piece of waste wood under the bench legs as you drill to prevent ugly fuzz from developing around the bottom edges of the holes. You can use a band saw, jigsaw or handsaw to cut the angled sides of the leg cutouts. (If you opt for a jigsaw, apply only light pressure in order to keep the blade from wandering out of square. If your jigsaw features orbital blade action, turn it to full power, since the leg stock is thick.)The tops of the legs need notches called shoulders (see illustration, page 52). These make the bench more rigid by offering greater support to the aprons, which hold the entire bench together and give it stability. Two quick cuts takes care of each one. The legs are now done, though you may opt to sand and round over the outer edges.The seat on my bench is made of a 12"-wide piece of ¾"-thick pine. To create the handle cutouts on the bench seat, begin with two 1½"-diameter holes, removing the wood between them with a couple of jigsaw cuts. Rounding the edges of these holes makes them nicer to grab.The aprons are next. Cut two aprons, nipping the bottoms of the corners off at a 45-degree angle for aesthetics. What you need Strong stanceThe top of each leg is notched to provide extra support for the aprons. In turn, the aprons are secured to the seat with L-brackets. For added strength, four screws are then driven through the top of the seat into each leg and one screw into the centre of each apron.Tools:• pencil• ruler• drill • Forstner drill bit• band saw, jigsaw or handsaw• palm sanderMaterial:• 1 pine seat: ¾" x 12" x 48" • 2 pine aprons: ¾" x 3½" x 44"• 2 pine legs: 1½" x 9½" x 17½"• 18 plated wood screws: #10 x 1½"• 4 plated L-brackets: 1½" x 1½"• 220-grit sandpaper• exterior latex paint: matte black and dark green • oil-based wood stain• spar varnishAssemblyLay the legs on their edges and nestle one of the aprons into the uppermost shoulder cutouts. Position the legs 4" in from the ends of the aprons, square them up, then lock them in position with two #10 x 1½" plated screws per joint. (Driving the screws into pre-drilled countersunk holes in the aprons greatly reduces the chance of splitting, especially with wood that contains knots or wavy grain near the screw locations.) Turn the seat upside down on your workbench, then centre the leg frame on top. There should be 2" of overhang on each end. I used pocket screws to secure the top to the aprons, though metal L-brackets work, too (as above). Flip the bench over and drive four 1½" screws down through the top into each of the legs, and one in the centre of each apron for added strength. FinishTo create a weathered finish, I began with a coat of exterior latex paint in matte black. Once dry, a second coat was added (this time in dark green). Distressing was done with a ring of keys banged against the bench to create dents and dings, with a palm sander providing the necessary wear in all the places you'd expect. The idea is to remove some of the outer coat of paint, as well as some of the first paint layer, down to the bare wood. To tone down the contrast between bare wood and paint, a coat of oil-based wood stain was added to create a rich burnished look before sealing everything under three coats of spar varnish (tough enough for outdoor use). Be sure to do a light 220-grit sanding between each layer.- Credit
- John Sillaots
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Easy to make garden bench Easy to make garden bench
Easy to make garden bench ofPutting it all together I love projects that raise humble materials to lofty heights, and a bag of concrete, a length of cedar and a couple of bolts are all this one takes. Here's how to put it together.concrete form and seat slabThe stone-like seat slab consists of a single 50-lb. bag of ready-to-mix concrete cast in a homemade form. To make the form, start with a 2' x 4' sheet of 5⁄8"-thick melamine-coated particleboard, available at large building supply centres. Using a jigsaw, circular saw or table saw, cut the base to size. I made mine 131⁄4" x 371⁄4". Next, cut the short and long side pieces from 3"-wide particleboard using a power mitre saw. To assemble, first attach one long side piece to the base with screws, driving them in every 5" or so (drywall screws work well here; their thin shanks eliminate the need for pre-drilling). No glue is necessary since the form is temporary and will soon be disassembled to release the hardened concrete. Attach the remaining three sides to the base in the same manner, then add a couple of screws at each corner, as shown.Place the form on a sturdy, flat surface and slide shims under corners if necessary until it's perfectly level. This is crucial in creating a slab of uniform thickness. Next, coat the inside of the form with a thin layer of vegetable oil so the concrete won't stick. You can mix the concrete in a wheelbarrow with a shovel, but I prefer using a clean plastic garbage can and a paddle mixer spinning on the end of a corded drill. Dump the concrete into the garbage can and add two litres of cool, clean water and two litres of latex bonding agent. (This is a white liquid sold under various brand names at building supply stores.) The bonding agent helps the concrete to settle in the mould a little better and gives the finished slab a nicer feel, while also reducing any tendency to crack. Mix thoroughly until the concrete is lump-free. Now scoop out the mixture into the form-I used a plastic milk bag container. To settle the mixture, tap all around the sides of the form with a rubber mallet. The concrete should level out at about 1⁄4" below the top. Let it cure for a few days, then remove the sides of the mould to release the slab. Smooth all the sharp edges of the concrete with a small grinder, or rub them with a stone. Finishing touches; materials you need building the leg frameCut the crosspiece and legs to the desired lengths from a single, 8' length of 4" x 4" cedar. A power mitre saw is ideal, but you can also use a hand-held circular saw, provided the cuts are made straight and square. (Some building supply outlets will cut the wood for you, too.) Next, measure and mark the locations of the bolt holes on the tops of the legs and ends of the crosspiece. These are held together with one 10"-long, 1⁄2"-diameter carriage bolt at each end, with a bead of construction adhesive on each side of the joint to prevent the legs from flopping over if the bolts become loose. Countersink the heads and nuts of the bolts by drilling 1"-diameter holes 1⁄2" deep on the outside faces of the legs. Now drill 1⁄2" holes through the legs and crosspieces. Assemble the base by tapping bolts through the legs and tightening the nuts with a socket wrench.finishing touchesCedar will last for many years outside with no finish at all, but it will turn grey. If you prefer a brighter look, apply an exterior-rated finish. I used two coats of Sikkens Cetol 1 translucent alkyd oil finish, which I find to be the most durable. You'll want to apply several coats of concrete sealer to the slab to protect it from water and stains.- Credit
- Paul Lewis
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Awake your winter garden with a birdfeeder Awake your winter garden with a birdfeeder
Awake your winter garden with a birdfeeder ofAwaken your winter garden; seeds birds love Never mind that your perennials are fast asleep. You and your children can chase away those colourless winter-blah days by livening up your garden with a simple birdfeeder. In their own way, winter birds are as beautiful as spring and summer flowers.Most kids enjoy watching birds, and they especially enjoy making feeders, then filling their creations with seeds. Just be sure to place your feeder where you can enjoy it from a window. A hard-to-see feeder can easily be forgotten, which is less fun for your kids and unfair to the birds because you forget to refill it. If possible, place it near small bushes to offer birds places to hide in times of danger. Don't be discouraged if birds don't find your feeder right away. Once they do, they'll visit regularly. Continue to feed the birds until May when insects emerge and some fruit and seeds begin to mature, providing food for your feathered friends.Here are a few more tips: Always watch birds from a distance; they're easily frightened away. To get a closer look, let your kids use inexpensive binoculars. For added fun, purchase a disposable camera so kids can photograph the birds in your yard. Later they can make a picture album to show relatives and friends. SEEDS BIRDS LOVEFollowing is a list of seeds commonly set out for birds. The list includes examples of the birds each seed is likely to attract.Sunflower Seeds: Most birds choose sunflower seeds over all other treats, whether dispensed from hanging or platform feeders. (And so do squirrels, as you'll soon find out if you hang a sunflower-seed feeder in or near a tree.) Both the striped and black-oil varieties offer similar food value, but chickadees, nuthatches and finches, for example, find the striped kind difficult to crack. Black-oil sunflower seeds have thinner hulls, which most birds can easily shell. Another minus for the striped type: their discarded hulls take longer to biodegrade.Cracked Corn: The least expensive birdseed, cracked corn happily satisfies most wild birds; finches are a notable exception. Squirrels and pigeons also eat cracked corn, a positive or a negative depending on your outlook. Pour cracked corn into platform feeders or scatter it over the ground.Millet: Sparrows and junkets love tiny red, golden or white millet seeds, though they favour the white variety. Since both birds prefer eating on or near the ground, scatter millet there, near bushes and trees for safe refuge.Niger: This favourite of goldfinches is the most expensive seed, usually poured into special feeders with holes too small for all but fine-billed goldfinches, redpolls and pine siskins. Chickadees and mourning doves also love niger seed and sometimes learn to knock on a feeder until the seeds fall out the holes onto the tray.Peanuts: In-the-know blue jays greedily accept unshelled peanuts, weighing each one and then taking the heaviest ones first. To educate the uninitiated, leave a few partially opened peanuts in the feeder. Blue jays catch on quickly. Get them hooked and they come back often.Suet: While not a seed, in winter chickadees, nuthatches, woodpeckers and blue jays enjoy suet for needed extra calories. Place raw suet in onion bags and nail onto a piece of wood tied to the side of a tree. You can also melt suet in a double boiler and mix in seeds, honey and corn meal. One caution: suet turns rancid quickly when temperatures go above freezing, possibly poisoning birds. Replace suet as needed until spring. Simple homemade feeders; related web sites SIMPLE HOMEMADE FEEDERSPie tins make simple feeders for cardinals, blue jays, juncos and sparrows. For drainage holes, use a nail to punch small holes in the bottom and place the pie tin-slightly elevated by a brick or flat rock-on a stump, rock or wall. For a hanging feeder, place the pie tin in a plant hanger.A well washed, recycled plastic pop, bleach or vinegar bottle makes another inexpensive birdfeeder. Simply punch holes on opposite sides and poke a stick through both holes to create two perches. Two to three centimetres above each perch, make small holes for the birds to pull seeds out. (Make tiny holes if your feeder is for niger seed.) Tie a string around the bottle's neck, fill the bottle with seed and hang the feeder from a tree branch.Small milk cartons make feeders that don't last long, but they're fun to make and easy to replace. Wash and thoroughly dry the milk carton. On the carton's front, cut a dime-size hole two or three centimetres from the bottom of the carton. Below the hole, poke a stick through from front to back to create a perch. Staple the top opening closed. To hang the feeder, poke a hole in the middle of the top of the carton, and thread a piece of yarn or string through it.Related web sitesBirdfeeder MaintenanceHelp the Audubon Society prevent at-risk birds from becoming threatened or endangeredaudubon.org/bird/at_home/bird_feedingFeather QuestGuess what type of bird it is from a photo of a feather. There are also many hints to help you find the answerwww.nmnh.si.edu/BIRDNET/FeatherQuest/North American Bird SoundsThe songs of many common North American birds, such as loons, gulls, woodpeckers and duckswww.naturesongs.com/birds.htmlBird Identification Info CentreAn online bird identification guide with over 200 species and 400 photographswww.mbr-pwrc.usgs.gov/id/framlst/infocenter.htmlWatching Birds with Your EarsIdentifying birds by their sounds; frequently asked questions, bird tips, and morewww.birdwatching.com/tips/earwatching.htmlBirdFeeder CamA new image uploads every 45 seconds from dawn to dusk Eastern Standard Timewww.wbu.com/feedercam_home.htm- Credit
- Tina Forrester
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Easy-to-build lattice screen Easy-to-build lattice screen
Easy-to-build lattice screen ofA simple screen to hide an unsightly air conditioner The gardener's never-ending quest for more garden beds often means plantings have to share real estate with outdoor eyesores such as central air conditioners. We built this simple screen to hide that unsightly object, but its size could be adjusted to conceal any number of unattractive outdoor fixtures.First, determine the approximate size of the screen you'll need. Measure your air conditioning unit, factoring in generous clearance so as not to restrict airflow. Next, fine-tune the dimensions based on the size of the lattice. The size of the slats and gaps is fixed, so use width and height dimensions that allow the full lattice pattern to be used to avoid a partial slat or gap at the edges.In this case, the air conditioner is about 24" square, so I made the screen 40 1/2" x 32 1/2". The extra width accommodates pipes and wires on the right side of the unit.Start by cutting the corner posts to length. A sliding compound mitre saw is an excellent tool for this job, but you can use a sharp handsaw, too. To create the peaked tops on each post, make cuts 30 degrees from square on all four sides of each post, creating a pyramid shape. If you're using a mitre saw, add the decorative detail line to the top of each post by limiting the depth of cut on the machine to 1/8" and making a shallow saw cut on the four sides.Next, cut the lattice panels to size using a handsaw. (The flexible panels and metal staples at each lattice intersection make it difficult to cut this material with power tools.)Measure, mark and cut the retaining strips to length; you're now ready to start putting the screen together.Assemble the front frame first by laying out the two corner posts and front crosspieces on a flat surface, such as a deck or patio. Attach these pieces together using four #8 x 3" deck screws driven through the corner posts and into the ends of the crosspieces; pre-drill into the ends of the crosspieces with a 1/8"-diameter bit to avoid splitting the wood. For extra strength, add a blob of polyurethane construction adhesive to each joint before driving the screws home. Assembling the screen; what you will need PARTSIZEQTY. Corner posts 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" x 37 1/2" 4 Front lattice panel3/8" x 29 1/2" x 37 1/2" 1 Side lattice panels3/8" x 29 1/2" x 29 1/2" 2 Front crosspieces1 1/2" x 1 1/2" x 37 1/2" 2 Side crosspieces1 1/2" x 1 1/2" x 29 1/2" 2 Vertical retaining strips 3/4" x 3/4" x 28"6 Short horizontal retaining strips3/4" x 3/4" x 29 1/2"4 Long horizontal retaining strips3/4" x 3/4" x 37 1/2"2 Deck screws (corrosion resistant)#8 x 3"122 Galvanized finishing nails1 1/2"approx. 100 Galvanized spikes12"4 Nylon cable ties4Next, install retaining strips on the inside face of the posts and crosspieces using galvanized finishing nails driven every four inches. These will form a ledge against which you can attach the lattice. Once the retaining strips are in place, put the precut lattice panel in position and secure it with more nails driven through the lattice into the corner posts and crosspieces. You'll need to drive these nails at an angle to prevent them from poking out the other side of the retaining strips. Move the completed front panel out of the way and repeat the assembly procedure to construct the back panel. Get some help holding these upright while you add the side crosspieces and lattice panels to create the complete four-sided screen. Apply a few coats of oil-based, semi-transparent stain to all surfaces. The stain will help guard against sun and water damage, and help prevent the cedar from turning grey with age.Installation is simple. The screen is self-supporting and just sits around the air conditioner. However, you may have to dig out some dirt around the bottom of the posts so the screen is sitting level. Hold the screen in place by driving 12" galvanized spikes (used to nail landscape railway ties together) into the ground beside each corner post. Secure each post to the spike with a nylon cable tie to prevent the screen from shifting.- Credit
- Paul Lewis
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Build a tomato cage Build a tomato cage
Build a tomato cage ofAssembling the tomato cage There are many ways to support the sprawling branches and heavy fruit of tomato plants but few are more elegant than this wood-and-wire tomato cage, which we spotted in the garden of Brock and Bonnie Young in Aurora, Ontario.Corner posts and crosspiecesStart the project by cutting the corner posts and crosspieces to length with a handsaw. Arrange one side of the cage flat on your work surface using two corner posts and two crosspieces to form a rectangular frame.Drill a 1/8”-diameter hole to prevent the wood from splitting before attaching these pieces together with one #8 2 1/2”-long coated deck screw at each corner. Offset the screws slightly so they don't collide as the sides are assembled. Apply a dab of weatherproof carpenter's glue to each joint before joining two frame members together. (See detailed plan on last page)Once you've completed two frames, join them together with the remaining crosspieces. Attach the crosspieces to the finished sides with screws and glue. Now you'll see why offset screws are so important.Top frame and cove mouldingThe top frame does more than just look good: it helps protect the vulnerable end grain of the corner posts from water. Start with a length of 3 1/2”-wide lumber (this is the actual width of so-called 1” x 4” wood). Measure and mark the 45° angles for the corners, then cut them to length using a handsaw and small mitre box. If you don't have a mitre box, clamp a short length of wood at a 45° angle to the lumber to act as a guide for your saw blade. Test-fit the frame pieces together on top of the tomato cage before joining them with weatherproof glue and some galvanized finishing nails. Once the glue has dried, attach the assembled top frame to the cage with more glue and screws.The cove moulding comes next. It's easiest to cut one 45° end first, then hold the part in position on the cage to mark the next cut. Install the first piece of moulding on the cage with glue and a few finishing nails, then repeat the process for the other three lengths of moulding. Putting it all together; tomato varieties FinishingPaint or stain before adding wire panels. In keeping with its painted Victorian inspiration, I chose an opaque oil-based stain. Apply a few coats to all wooden parts to protect them from the elements.Cut the side panels from wire fencing using a pair of wire snips or bolt cutters. The dimensions for this tomato cage are based on using fencing with 2” x 4” openings. If you use a different size fence, make sure to adjust the size of your cage accordingly.Once the final coat of stain is dry, attach the wire panels using U-shaped galvanized wire staples hammered in every six inches or so. Lay the cage down on its side and install temporary braces between the corner posts to make them rigid enough to resist hammer blows.To ensure your tomato cage stays put, drive a couple of galvanized eavestrough spikes into the ground beside the corner posts and attach the cage to the spikes using nylon cable ties.Tomato VarietiesThere are so many cultivars to choose from that narrowing your tomato seed selection to the limits of your garden space is a challenge. Most gardeners have their favourites, the tried-and-true varieties that best suit their growing conditions and are as reliable as old friends. But it's hard not to be enamoured with all the new kids on the block.A couple of factors to keep in mind: you only get the exquisite taste of fresh tomatoes if they have the opportunity to ripen on the vine, so check the days to maturity; we've had both drought and damp summers, so check disease tolerance, too.Here are a few old and new cultivars we've heard good things about.SLICING (MEDIUM TO LARGE)‘Big Beef' (73 days)‘Early Cascade' (65 days)‘First Lady II' (66 days)‘Patio' (70 days)*PLUM‘Roma' (75 days)‘Viva Italia' (65 days)‘Window Box Roma' (70 days)*CHERRY‘Golden Cherry' (65 days)‘Sweet 100' (63 days)‘Tumbler' (48 days)*GRAPE‘Juliet' (62 days)‘Harmony' (65 days)YELLOW‘Lemon Boy' (72 days)‘Yellow Pear' (65 days)*Good choices for container growing. Materials you will need PARTSIZEQTY.Corner posts 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" x 39 1/2"4Crosspieces1 1/2" x 1 1/2" x 12 1/2"8Top frame pieces1 1/2" x 3 1/2" x 72"4Cove moulding1/2" x 84" *1Screws#8 2 1/2" coated deck screws20Nails1 1/2" galvanized finishing nails20* Total length required. Cut to fit.- Credit
- Paul Lewis
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Privacy panels for your garden Privacy panels for your garden
Privacy panels for your garden ofKeep it private without closing your garden off Privacy screens can be difficult to design: too high and the screen will overwhelm the deck, too low and it won't do its job. Staggering the screen's height (as shown here), effectively addresses both concerns. The corner section is tall enough to block the view, while the descending pattern of the adjoining sections makes the entire structure less obtrusive. And because the design is modular, you can build as many panels as necessary to custom-fit your space.The materials used here are readily available at your local building centre, and the assembly is straight-forward enough for even a novice builder.Once you've determined the number of panels you want and their dimensions, you're ready to begin.Panel FramesWe built the frames using standard 2” x 2” cedar (which actually measures 1 1/2” x 1 1/2”). Starting with the two tallest panels, measure and cut the sides and crosspieces to length. Put the panel frames together on a flat surface to ensure they remain square; don't twist during assembly. If you don't have a workbench, a couple of sawhorses or even a picnic table will do.Assemble the first frame using one #8 2 1/2”-long coated deck screw at each corner. Drill a 1/8”-diameter hole to prevent the wood from splitting when the screws are driven home. Add a bead of outdoor-rated construction adhesive to each joint for more strength. Build the perimeter of the frame first, then add the centre crosspiece. The location of the middle crosspieces in this project was determined by the height of the shortest panel, Panel D (see illustration, next page).Cut the remainder of the sides and crosspieces. Assemble the rest of the frames the same way, using the tallest panel as a template. Assembling lattice panels Retaining StripsThe edges of the lattice panels are hidden from view by small 1/2” x 1/2” retaining strips, commonly called nailing strips and used when building fences. Set one of the panel frames on its long edge and position a retaining strip in place. Instead of measuring each piece, simply take a direct measurement from the frame. Cut the retaining strip to length with a small handsaw and nail it in place with 1 1/2” hot-dipped, galvanized nails spaced 8” apart along the entire length of the strip. Use a pencil laid on its side as a gauge to ensure strips are located a uniform 1/4” (the diameter of the pencil) from the edges of the frame. Mark, cut and attach the remaining retaining strips accordingly.Lattice PanelsThe lattice panels are purchased in 4' x 8' sheets. Using a circular saw, cut the lattice panels to the correct length and width. Be careful: there are staples in the lattice. Lay the panels into the frame openings from behind and attach with more 1 1/2” nails spaced 8” apart. Make sure the best side of the lattice is showing and the pattern is the same. (The crimped ends of the staples in the lattice should be on the hidden side.) Drive the nails at a slight angle through the lattice into the frames. Once the lattice is installed, it's time to attach the completed panels to the deck. Installation guide InstallationThe privacy panels are long enough to allow them to be attached directly to the side of the deck. Starting at the bottom of the corner panel, drive one 3” screw through the side of the panel into the deck skirt (see photo #1 on last page).Square the panel using a level before driving a second screw through the opposite side (photo #2).Next, check that the panel is vertical from top to bottom; use cedar shingles slipped in between the panel and the deck skirt to align the panel vertically (photo #3), then add two more screws to attach the panel permanently.Continue installing the remainder of the panels this way (photo #4), then attach the panels together through their sides with three more 3” screws (see illustration on previous page).Top CapThe final addition to the privacy screen is the top cap. In addition to helping keep water away from vulnerable joints, these extra pieces of wood provide a decorative element. Cut the pieces to length and secure to the panels using a couple of screws for each one (photo #5). Fill the screw holes with silicone sealant to further guard against rain and snow. Finishing guide, what you need PARTSIZEQTY. Panel A Sides1 1/2" x 1 1/2" x 96"4 Panel B Sides1 1/2" x 1 1/2" x 84"4 Panel C Sides1 1/2" x 1 1/2" x 72"4 Panel D Sides1 1/2" x 1 1/2" x 60"2 Crosspieces1 1/2" x 1 1/2" x 17"20 Retaining strips 1/2" x 1/2" x cut length to fit. Lattice panels 16 3/4" wide x cut length to fit. Short top caps1 1/2" x 1 1/2" x 21 1/2"5 Long top cap1 1/2" x 1 1/2" x 41 1/2"1 #8 2 1/2" screws.67 #8 3 1/2" screws.28 1 1/2" nails.approx. 200 pcs.FinishIdeally, let the wood weather for a season before applying a finish, regardless of the finish you choose. A semi-transparent stain and sealer were used here.Outdoor wood is best protected from exposure with an opaque finish, but the beauty of the grain is lost. A semi- transparent stain is a nice compromise between the beauty of a clear finish and the durability of an opaque one.- Credit
- Paul Lewis
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Guardians of the garden Guardians of the garden
Guardians of the garden ofExotic garden guardians In Thailand, every house, hotel, hospital and disco has a spirit house. These structures, which are usually the size of a birdhouse, are where spirits of the land, or phra phum, live. They are either custom-made by expert spirithouse artisans or mass-produced.A multitude of spirits are worshipped in Thailand, nine of which are spirits of the land. These include a specific guardian for animals, fields, waterways and even military installations. The tradition is rooted in Animism, which predates Buddhism. While some Buddhist temples display spirit houses, others forbid them.The guardian of the house and the guardian of the garden are the most commonly worshipped land spirits. The guardian of the garden watches over and protects a family's yard, flowers and trees. Because of their popularity, they are the only two spirits that require a permanent home that can be visited by worshippers daily (though a temporary home is built for the other spirits when needed for a special occasion or ritual).Spirit houses most often look like small Thai temples. Although they are usually very ornately carved and decorated with coloured glass, mirrors and mosaics, they can also be less decorative, such as simply carved wood. The houses must be improved or enlarged to keep pace with any changes made to the building they are associated with. Hotels, for example, may have spirit houses that are 100 square metres in size or more. A very large spirit house, large enough for an adult to stand in, is located at the World Trade Centre in Bangkok.The site of the spirit house for the garden of a residence is given careful consideration. It must have a prominent location and is usually placed at eye level on a post on the lawn near the home, in an area of the garden that never falls under the shadow of the house. The spirit house is installed with proper ceremony by a priest who “invites” the spirit to live inside the spirit house; offerings of rice, fruit and even a pig's head are commonly made.Once installed, gifts continue with daily offerings of flowers, food and incense. The nature of the spirit house is such that it can't simply be tossed aside if it's damaged or no longer required. Instead, it's placed at the base of a tree believed to be sacred, or in a temple where other kind spirits will take care of it. Spirits are told when a member of the household will be away for an extended period of time so they are aware of any changes to their domain. When a family moves, a ceremony is held to also help the spirit move from its old home to its new one.Even when used as a decorative element in the garden, a spirit house can symbolize our respect for nature and our love for our gardens. And these days, they need all the protection they can get.WHERE TO GET THEM:Chada Import Gallery Ltd.,25 Baldwin St., Toronto, ONM5T 1L1; 416/596-8135.- Credit
- Stephanie Smith
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Improve your side yard Improve your side yard
Improve your side yard ofLooking for alternatives in your side yard There isn't much room between our house and the one next door, as is the case in many subdivisions. Narrow strips of land between neighbours tend to be the most neglected part of gardens, and ours was no different. Additionally, it doesn't get a lot of sun or rain, being partly sheltered by overhangs on both sides. Grass doesn't grow well there, but the bits that do are a nuisance to trim.We decided to make the best of our bad situation and looked for an alternative to grass, opting for gravel. It's low maintenance and economical. Gravel also provides excellent drainage and is extremely durable under any weather condition.Because of the slight incline, we couldn't use a round stone, such as pea gravel, as it would be slippery and wash down the slope too easily. We decided on crushed brick; the colour harmonizes well with the brick of both homes and comes in various sizes. It contrasts nicely with the plant material without competing for attention.The project required little preparation. We removed the sod and evened out the soil, making sure to grade the slope properly so that water would continue to run away from the foundation of the house. We put down a layer of stone about eight centimetres deep. (To suppress weeds, install landscape fabric before you put down the stone.) A wheelbarrow made it quite easy to transport small loads of crushed brick, which were then spread out with a rake.Adding heightWhen working with a narrow space, the next best place to go is up. Using pressure-treated wood lattice and 2x2s, we built a simple trellis on the brick walls of the house for vines to climb, drawing the eye upward. The structure is attached to the brick with tapcon screws. We transplanted a female bittersweet vine from another part of the garden to one side of the trellis; on the other side, a male bittersweet so the female would produce beautiful berries.On the south end near the rain spout, we planted Boston ivy, which is slowly covering the house with its rich green leaves-an excellent way to shade your home and save on utility bills. Other shade-tolerant options include Virginia creeper (Parthenocissus quinquefolia syn. Vitis quinquefolia), chocolate vine (Akebia quinata), porcelain vine (Ampelopsis brevipedunculata) and Dutchman's pipe (Aristolochia macrophylla).A tall cedar planted in front of the air-conditioning unit does double duty, hiding the unit while adding height. (Be sure not to plant any shrubs too close to the air conditioner's hot air vent, as this will kill your plants over the winter.) What to plant, finishing touches Finishing touchesKeep the plant palette simple. We chose a few different plants and grouped them in odd numbers, which kept the look quiet and serene. We also included clusters of large landscape stones for additional interest and a couple of attractive pots planted up with annuals and perennial grasses to disguise unsightly utility meters.What to plantThe amount of sun and rain will dictate what type of plants will be best for your needs. Here are some suggestions for dry shade:Lady's mantle (Alchemilla mollis), Zone 3Dwarf goatsbeard (Aruncus aethusifolius), Zone 4Siberian bugloss (Brunnera macrophylla cvs.), Zone 3Bleeding heart (Dicentra spp.), Zone 3Male fern (Dryopteris filix-mas), Zone 4Barrenwort (Epimedium spp.), Zone 5Sweet woodruff (Galium odoratum), Zone 4Ivies (Hedera spp.), various zonesHeuchera spp., Zone 4Deadnettle (Lamium spp.), Zone 4Christmas fern (Polystichum acrostichoides), Zone 3False Solomon's seal (Smilacina racemosa syn. Maianthemum racemosum), Zone 4Foam flower (Tiarella cordifolia), Zone 4Periwinkle (Vinca minor), Zone 4.- Credit
- Bonnie Summerfeldt
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Build a versailles planter Build a versailles planter
Build a versailles planter ofMaking the frame While the origin of the Versailles planter is not entirely clear, one assumes it would have made its appearance in the elaborate palace gardens of Louis XIV. However, many of the ideas carried out at the palace were first developed by landscape architect André Le Nôtre for Louis XIV's finance minister, Nicholas Fouquet. The minister intended to erect the most splendid château in France, complete with distinguished landscaping; Vaux-le-Vicomte is one of the earliest examples of the flamboyant French baroque style. Unfortunately, Fouquet made the mistake of inviting his boss to the lavish housewarming party. Three weeks later the king had the minister arrested for embezzlement. The château was confiscated and the landscape architect was absorbed into royal service. Le Nôtre went on to design the geometric gardens at the palace and presumably a version of the planter seen here.I built this Versailles planter out of cedar because of its affordability and weather-resistant qualities. Start by ripping (cutting parallel to the grain) and planing (smoothing) the posts and horizontal pieces to their final thickness of 2 3/4". Your lumber supplier may offer this service, or find a local woodworker to do the job.Cut the posts to 21" and put a 1/4" chamfer on the tops using a mitre saw set at a 45-degree angle. Saw the horizontals to size, then arrange all the 2 3/4" pieces in their proper configuration so biscuit locations can be marked. Use offcuts as spacers to determine the height of the lower horizontals from the ground. The upper horizontals sit 1 5/16" down from the top. Cut two #20 biscuit slots in each post and horizontal piece.Dry fit the frame together, marking the inside intersections of the horizontal pieces on the posts.Disassemble and add 1/2" to the marks on the posts; these are the start and stop points of the 3/4" grooves that accept the slats. The top and bottom horizontal pieces also get a 3/4"-wide and 1/2"-deep groove.Cut the grooves with a 3/4" straight cutter bit in a router with a fence attached. Finishing the project Cut the slats to 12 3/4" and chamfer the outside edges. Cut the four bottom corner blocks and attach them to the bottom horizontal pieces with biscuits so they're flush to the top of the bottom horizontals.Dry fit the planter, minus the slats, then clamp (don't glue). Mark a centre line on the 1 5/8"-wide crosspieces. Hold each crosspiece on the outside of the planter, aligning the centre line with the inside corners of the posts and horizontals; scribe (mark) the angle, and cut to size.Before gluing, give all pieces a thorough sanding with 120-grit sandpaper. Use an exterior glue on the biscuit joints and all the surfaces that meet, except the slats, which need to be able to expand with humidity changes.Fit the crosspieces in place so one overlaps the other, scribe lines where the outer piece covers the inner one, remove and cut away the overlap. You will now have three pieces that form the “X”; glue and nail into the posts and horizontals.The slats of random widths sit on top of the horizontal and corner pieces; they are spaced about 1/8" apart to allow for drainage. The outer slats get a 1" x 1" notch so they fit around the posts.The finials truly do finish the piece. I used 2 1/2" wooden balls available at craft supply stores. They have a flat bottom complete with a 3/16" hole. Mark the centre of the top of each cedar post, then drill and attach the ball with a dowel and exterior glue.If your planter is going to be shifted around a lot, drill a larger hole in the ball and post, and fit it with the corresponding dowel for added strength.Fill any knotholes or imperfections with exterior wood filler; allow to dry, then prime the planter. A light sanding with 220-grit sandpaper will smooth the raised grain created by the primer; remove any dust with a tack cloth and vacuum, then apply two coats of an exterior acrylic paint.Now your plant has a home fit for a king. Just don't show it to your boss. Detailed illustration; needed materials MATERIALS (CEDAR)SIZEQty Posts2 3/4" x 2 3/4" x 214 Horizontals2 3/4" x 2 3/4" x 188 Slats3 11/16" x 3/4" x 12 3/4"20 Corner blocks 5 3/8" 4 Crosspieces21 1/2" x 1 5/8" x 3/4"8 Floorboardstotal area 19 15/16" x 19 15/16" x 13/16 random width slats- Credit
- Ken Tunnard
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Make mosaic art Make mosaic art
Make mosaic art ofMake a unique terra-cotta saucer With a little imagination, you can easily put together a masterpiece for your garden or a one-of-a-kind gift with materials available from your local building supply store.Whether you use rocks, marbles, buttons, game pieces, shells or pieces of tile, mirror, glass or china, you can make your own mosaic garden art in just one weekend using tools you already have on hand. Plan your pattern in advance, laying out all the pieces, or just create a design as you go along.This terra-cotta saucer has been tranformed into an inspired bird bath using broken tiles, marbles and glass beads. Though these projects were made using grey grout, other colours are available.MORE TIPS• This mosaic technique also works on tabletops. Be sure to find a base that will stand up to the outdoors, such as marine plywood or metal.• Not all cement-based adhesives are effective on wood, so prime the surface first. For indoor projects you can use non-water-soluble craft glue.• Don't pour mortar or grout down the drain. Wait a day or two until it separates, then pour the liquid down the drain and put the solids into the garbage.• Never mosaic the edge of a project, such as a table, that will get moved around often. The mortared pieces may shift or come off if handled too much.• If desired, apply a couple of coats of tile sealer for extra protection.MATERIALS NEEDED• base (e.g. terra-cotta pot or saucer)• tiles, marbles, glass beads and stones• tile nippers or hammer• safety glasses• rubber gloves• weatherproof mortar (cement-based)• knife or popsicle stick• weatherproof grout (unsanded)• small rubber spatula• buckets or plasticcontainers• sponge• towel or rag• fine steel wool Step-by-step instructions Here's how to put it all together:1. Choose a simple base. We used a terra-cotta pot and a saucer.2. Cut the tiles into smaller pieces with tile nippers. You can also break tiles by wrapping them in a rag or towel, then gently tapping them with a hammer. Always wear close-fitting rubber gloves and safety glasses. (To keep a dish's pattern intact, put duct tape on the back of the plate first to hold the pieces together.)3. Mix mortar according to package directions. Make sure mortar (and grout) are weatherproof.4. Apply mortar to each piece with a knife or popsicle stick, then press the piece lightly into place [photo a]. Try to avoid having mortar ooze out from underneath. Leave enough room between the pieces for grout. If tiles are different thicknesses, add additional mortar to the backs of thinner tiles until they're level. Let mortar dry for about eight hours.5. Mix grout according to package directions. (It should be the consistency of cookie dough.) Push in grout between tile pieces with a rubber spatula [photo b]. When all crevices are filled, let grout set for about 20 minutes, then use a damp sponge to remove any excess [photo c].6. Allow finished project to dry for 24 to 48 hours; remove any remaining surface grout with a rag or, if necessary, use fine steel wool.- Credit
- Bonnie Summerfeldt
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Build a Mini Water Garden Oasis Build a Mini Water Garden Oasis
Build a Mini Water Garden Oasis ofYour choice of containers The soothing sound of water is a lovely accessory in any garden. Even if you don't have room for a majestic pond, you can create your own small-scale oasis in a container. The tiniest trickle will reduce ambient noise and significantly increase your enjoyment of an urban patio, balcony or rooftop garden.TUB TIME (shown)A large, galvanized-steel tub (30 centi-metres deep, 46 centimetres square) serves as the base for this water feature.The pump was installed on the bottom, then covered with a plastic pot. A trick I learned from Canadian Gardening's previous editor, Beckie Fox, is to use a piece of gridded plastic (the type that's installed over fluorescent lighting) as a foundation for the top layer of stones. I added a variety of larger sizes (not pebbles) and finished it off with a flat slab of slate, which forms the ledge over which the stream of water runs.SAND WEDGEThis pond consists of two black metal containers that fit one inside the other, so there's room for a water garden and a small dryscape. Test the containers first to ensure they're watertight. (These two looked OK, but the corners leaked so I put in a liner.) Although the large container is 48 centimetres square and the smaller one is 28 centimetres square, they're only 14 centimetres high, giving the arrangement a low profile. After placing one inside the other, I filled the inner container with water and added the plants. Step-by-step assembly The 46-centimetre-diameter by 61-centimetre-deep pot had a drainage hole that I filled with plumber's putty. Then I inserted a pond liner and cut to fit. (Alternatively, spray the inside with a ceramic sealer to prevent the pot from absorbing water.) Install the pump, then cover it with a plastic pot with a notch cut to accommodate the pump's power cable (shown right). Any plastic pot will do as long as it's the right height and there's a drainage hole to thread the pump tubing through. Pull the cable through and drape it over the side of the container. Then place the smaller ceramic pot (which has also been sealed or lined) on top of the plastic pot and pull the tubing through its drainage hole.At this point, you should check the water flow. Most pumps have a lever that controls how quickly the water moves through, and you won't be able to reach it once the top pot is installed. The type of pump attachment (which controls flow at the end of the tubing) will also affect the water speed. Movement through a straight attachment is faster than movement through one with smaller holes.Fill the smaller pot to its top edge with pebbles or marbles (shown right). This will conceal the pump's hardware and keep the attachment in place.PUMP PRIMERTo make these potted ponds, I used a 95 GPH pump (GPH stands for gallons per hour). Although 95 GPH may sound like a lot, it's one of the smallest sizes on the market and is only appropriate for containers.Here's the formula for calculating the volume of your pond or container using imperial measurements: length x width x depth (all in feet) will give you the cubic feet of a rectangular container. Multiply this by 7.5 to obtain the number of U.S. gallons. The galvanized-steel tub used in “Tub Time” measures one foot deep by 1 1/2 feet square: 1 x 1.5 x 1.5 x 7.5 = 16.88 U.S. gallons. To calculate the size of the pump needed, divide the total number of gallons by two, which means you would only need an 8 GPH pump for a container this size.But that's just the beginning. The size of the container can also influence the strength of pump required. The longer the tubing from the pump to the water output, the more GPH is needed to keep the water moving. A waterfall entails its own set of calculations, as distance from water pump to water output can be significant. For the best advice and information on selecting a water pump, visit a retailer that specializes in water gardens. List of water-loving plants Corkscrew rush (Juncus effusus ‘Spiralis')A marginal water plant, meaning it can be grown either at the edge of or in a pond but still in soil, this unusually shaped rush reaches 60 centimetres tall and does best in sun or part shade. Make sure you're not buying J. balticus ‘Spiralis', which is less upright and has a tendency to spread. Zone 4Dwarf or miniature cattail (Typha minima)Another marginal plant, it reaches up to 45 centimetres tall and grows best in sun or part shade. Zone 3Chameleon plant (Houttuynia cordata ‘Chameleon')A marginal plant that produces white flowers in early summer, it must be planted in a perennial bed and mulched to successfully overwinter. It reaches 15 centimetres tall, does well in sun or part shade and tends to spread. Zone 5Needle rush hair grass or spike rush (Eleocharis acicularis)A marginal as well as an oxygenating plant (essential for the survival of fish), this North American native grows to about 30 centimetres tall and does best in sun or part shade. Zone 3Fairy moss (Azolla caroliniana and A. filiculoides)This tiny moss (one to three centimetres across) floats on the surface of the water. The green fronds turn red in fall; the plant spreads rapidly. Overwinter indoors; native to North America.- Credit
- Christina Selby
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Garden arbours: Grow up! Garden arbours: Grow up!
Garden arbours: Grow up! ofGarden arbour arch, posts and side panels Unlike most weak-kneed, store-bought types, our cedar arbour has a strong, solid stance, thanks to its substantial timbers. To build it, you'll need a circular saw, jigsaw and drill (if you don't have a circular saw, you can make the straight cuts with a sharp-bladed handsaw).ARCHThe sweeping curve of the graceful arch requires just one cut. After you've cut a 2 x 6 board to the correct length, lay out the curve with a drawing bow (a skinny, flexible piece of wood, such as narrow moulding). Here's how: Measure 10" in from the ends of the 2 x 6 board and drive two finishing nails into its face, close to the bottom edge. Mark the centre point of the board 1 1/2" down from the top edge.Position the drawing bow against the finishing nails and push the centre up to meet the centre mark on the board. The bow will flex to form a near-perfect curve. When you're happy with its shape, run a pencil along the edge of the bow to mark the curve. Next, use a compass to mark the circular cuts on the ends of the arch, then use a jigsaw to make the three cuts to form the arch. To complete the arch, attach the large, curved waste piece to the top of the 2 x 6 with 2 1/2"-long deck screws. (To prevent wood from splitting, first drill a 1/8" hole.)The curve of the elegant arch is achieved with just one cutPOSTSStart the corner posts by cutting each of the 4 x 4s to 7' lengths. Next, measure and mark the notch at the top of each post that will receive the arch pieces. To cut the notch, make six saw cuts about 1" apart and 1 3/8" deep. Knock out the waste pieces with a hammer and clean up the notch with a chisel, wood plane or rasp. Repeat with the remaining three posts.A side detail.SIDE PANELSCut the 2 x 3 rails and stiles to length. Attach them together as shown in the drawing (next page). Apply a bead of construction adhesive at each joint, then drive 2 1/2"-long deck screws to make each connection. Once frames are complete, cut the nailing strips to length and install them on the inside face of the frame, using galvanized finishing nails spaced every 8". Use a small scrap of wood as a gauge to ensure even spacing between the strip and the edge of the 2 x 3s. Next, measure and mark the lattice panels, and cut to size with a circular saw. Install panels into the frames against the retaining strips and secure in place with more nails. Finally, attach the remaining nailing strip to the other side of the lattice panels. Garden arbour materials and installation ASSEMBLYLay two posts face up and parallel to each other on a flat surface. Position one arch piece into the notches on top of the posts and mark the location of the holes for the lag screws. Using a spade bit, first drill 7/8"- diameter countersink holes (to allow the head of the lag screw to sit flush with the surface), then drill 1/4"- diameter pilot holes. Insert the stainless-steel lag screws and washers and drive them in with a socket or crescent wrench. Repeat this process for the back arch and post assembly.Next, lay one of the assemblies face down on the ground and position a side frame onto the corner post; attach with six 2 1/2" deck screws. Repeat for the other side panel, then lift the second arch and post assembly onto the top of the sides. Attach the frames to this with more screws driven in from the inside of the frame. Next, stand the arbour upright. Cut the crosspieces to length and attach them to the top of the arches with a single screw in each end. Finally, fill screw holes with silicone caulking to prevent water from seeping in and damaging the wood. INSTALLATIONFor maximum sturdiness, secure the arbour to four concrete footings that extend below the frost line with galvanized metal saddle brackets. For an easier, less permanent option, excavate about 12" of soil under each post, then fill the holes with coarse gravel for drainage.(This method is more susceptible to frost heave; adjust if necessary by adding or removing some gravel each spring.)FINISHBefore applying any finish, prepare the surface of the cedar by thoroughly sanding with a 60-grit abrasive on a random orbit sander. For a formal look, apply two coats of white, opaque, oil-based stain. If you prefer the natural look of cedar, apply a few coats of semi-transparent, oil-based stain. Or simply let the untreated cedar weather to a beautiful, silver-grey patina.- Paul Lewis designs and builds furniture from his home near Bradford, Ontario. See more of Paul's work at www.pushstick.com- Credit
- Paul Lewis
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Pebble patio Pebble patio
Pebble patio ofMaterials, moulds and designs Choose a mix that doesn't contain gravel (also called aggregate) and follow manufacturer's instructions. We chose Sand Mix, which is a combination of cement and sand, for a smooth finish. The bag will tell you how much area the contents will cover, how thick a coating is recommended (Sand Mix is for areas requiring less than two inches, or five centimetres, of coverage) and how to mix it.MATERIALSConcreteLarge plastic tubLong stick (for mixing)Flat piece of wood (forlevelling wet concrete)Acrylic bonding agentWaterDrop clothMouldsVegetable oilPaper towelSandPebblesFace maskHammerMOULDSYou'll have to make these yourself, but the process is quite simple. We used medium density fibreboard (MDF) because of its straight edges and flat surface. Another option is melamine, but this is a bit more expensive. Bits of wood leftover from other projects are cheapest, but make sure all the pieces are straight. If you don't own a saw, just go to a building supply store that has a cutting service. Usually, the first few cuts are free for material you are purchasing, with a nominal charge for additional cuts. (Work out the dimensions for your moulds in advance, as dithering over the details won't endear you to the employees, as we discovered.)First establish how many moulds you need based on the amount of concrete you are mixing. We went for moulds 12" square and 1 1/2" high, using 1/2"-thick MDF. One mould required a 13"-square base, two 13"-long, 1 1/2"-wide side panels and two 12"-long, 1 1/2"-wide side panels. Corner brackets (also called L-brackets) hold the side panels together or, if you have thicker side panels, you can screw them directly into the base.DESIGNING THE PATTERNRub vegetable oil on the insides of the side panels and base so the paver doesn't stick to the mould. Now you're ready to create your pebble designs. We used polished river rock, but any combination of pebbles, shells or marbles will work; just make sure they're only half as thick as your mould or the concrete won't be able to hold them.Pour a handful of sand into the mould, then spread it out. A layer about 1/4" thick should suffice. This keeps the design in place when you pour the concrete and allows for a slightly raised pattern. Arrange the pebbles in the design of your choice. Mixing concrete and making the pavers MIXING CONCRETEOnce all the moulds are ready, mix the concrete. You'll need to wear a mask for this as it's a dusty job. First pour the concrete mix into the tub, then make a well in the centre for adding the liquids. (It's rather like making cake batter.) For a stronger concrete, we replaced half the water called for in the mix instructions with acrylic bonding agent (which is usually sold in the same section as concrete mix). For example, our 30-kilogram bag of Sand Mix called for four litres of water. We mixed in two litres of water and two litres of acrylic bonding agent.First fold the ingredients together, then thoroughly mix, making sure to turn the tub on its side to incorporate any dry ingredients remaining in the corners. Mixing concrete requires some muscle and should be done quickly so it doesn't have time to harden. We used a drill attachment to makethe job easier. The concrete-mixing attachment resembles a large hand-mixer blade. You'll need a drill with a large chuck to accommodate the attachment (we used a 4.5-volt drill). You shouldn't do any damage to the drill if you're only using it occasionally for this purpose. The resulting mix should have the consistency of thick oatmeal.MAKING THE PAVERSNext, pour the concrete into the moulds. Vibrate the side panels with a hammer (tapping all around the edges) or hold a palm sander without sandpaper along the sides. This will get rid of air bubbles and level out the surface. You may need to add more mix once air bubbles are removed. Then draw a flat piece of wood across the top of the paver to level it off (called screeding).If there is any leftover concrete in the tub, you can pour it onto a grassy area to set, then dispose of it. Rinse the tub out with water immediately, before the concrete has a chance to set.The pavers should be removed from the moulds while they're "green", which is the first level of curing (four to five hours after pouring if the pavers are in a warm, dry place, but drying time will vary if the air is cold or humid). They should feel solid to the touch.Unscrew the corner bracket or screws attaching the side panels to the base and remove the panels. You can prop up the pavers on sticks to increase air circulation or just leave them on their bases. They must be left undisturbed for three to four days. Cover them with a damp cloth or spritz with water a couple of times a day so the concrete cures more slowly. If the water evaporates too quickly, the structure of the concrete is weakened.Once the concrete is dry (though it keeps curing for a total of 30 days), you'll need to brush the top layer of sand away from your pattern. A stiff paint brush should do the trick. Then the pavers are ready to grace your garden.- Credit
- Christina Selby
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August/September 2008
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