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Simple ways to extend the harvest Simple ways to extend the harvest
Simple ways to extend the harvest ofCooled in cold frames You can plant vegetables earlier in the spring and harvest them later in the autumn by creating conditions that are less extreme than in the open garden. Here are some of the best methods. Coddled in cold frames Cold frames can lengthen the growing season by up to two months. These are bottomless boxes with clear covers set directly on the ground. You can purchase prefabricated models or build your own.The sides may be constructed of wood, brick or cinder block. Old storm windows, clear acrylic panes or sheets of Plexiglas make durable covers; another option is UV-stabilized polyethylene or heavy-duty PolyWeave (eight-millimetre-thick polyethylene reinforced with nylon mesh). This lasts for five seasons, lets through 90 per cent of available sunlight and protects plants to –4ºC. You can also create a temporary cold frame by stacking bales of straw around plants and laying old storm windows overtop.Site the cold frame facing south, with the back toward the north. Raise the back several centimetres higher than the front by mounding it up with soil (fill in the gaps on the sides with more soil); this angles the cover for maximum sun exposure and helps insulate the frame. Once in place, enrich the soil with your best compost to ensure good drainage and prevent roots from rotting. Put a small thermometer inside the cold frame; when the temperature reaches 22ºC, prop open the lid.All tucked inPlaced loosely over plants, floating row covers and garden blankets made of lightweight fabric (e.g. Agronet, Agryl P17 and Reemay) let through about 85 per cent of available sunlight, are permeable to water and air, and protect plants from frost damage to –2ºC. (Peg down the edges with U-shaped metal pins or large flat-head nails.) Floating row covers speed the growth of young plants in spring, enabling gardeners to harvest vegetables 10 to 14 days earlier than usual. Additionally, they slow the evaporation of moisture from the soil and keep pests off plants. These covers should be replaced after 20 weeks or so of combined use. Pampered in plasticPlastic tunnels are essentially mini-greenhouses that can extend the growing season by three to five weeks, and are ideal for vegetables planted in straight rows.Place a sheet of four- or six-millimetre-thick polyethylene (with a UV-inhibitor) over a series of sturdy bent wires or plastic hoops that are slightly higher than the plants. Bury the edges of the sheet in the soil and secure with bricks or stones; leave the ends open. Ventilate the tunnel and moderate temperatures by cutting vertical slits in the plastic every 30 to 40 centimetres. On nights when temperatures hover around freezing, cover the ends with squares of leftover polyethylene or newspaper. Four-season cold frames Spring Start and harden off seedlings; grow early, cool-season vegetables such as spinach, leaf lettuce and radishes.SummerRemove the lid and start autumn crops or perennials from seed.AutumnExtend the harvest of summer crops such as beans, beets, eggplants, onions and peppers; sow a second season of salad greens and other cool-weather crops. WinterExtend the harvest of autumn crops such as potatoes, winter squash, arugula, cabbage, kale and leeks; propagate shrubs and trees from cuttings, which can be left to overwinter inside the cold frame.- Credit
- Stephen Westcott-Gratton
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Making new shrubs Making new shrubs
Making new shrubs ofSelect a suitable stem Layering is a cost-effective way to propagate woody plants that gardeners have used for centuries. Simply put, a young branch from the parent plant is bent to the ground and buried in a trench with just the growing tip exposed. Once rooted, the layered branch is severed from the parent, and the clone then transplanted.SELECTING SUITABLE STEMSThe best branches to use for simple layering are vigorous, green, flexible, one-year-old stems, about as thin as a pencil and long enough to bend to the ground. Plants that haven’t been pruned regularly might not have any suitable young shoots close to ground level. If this is the case, in the spring, prune one or two mature branches to within 15 to 20 centimetres of the base of the shrub. Over the course of the summer, these branches will produce new shoots perfect for layering the following spring.TIME IT RIGHTIdeally, simple layering should be carried out in the spring before the plant has broken dormancy. That’s because blanching the layered stem (keeping it from sunlight) is crucial for initiating root formation, and the earlier you bury it, the more vigorous the rooting response.BEST PLANTS FOR LAYERINGCAMELLIA (Camellia japonica) FLOWERING QUINCE (Chaenomeles spp.) CLEMATIS spp.WINTER HAZEL (Corylopsis spp.) SMOKEBUSH (Cotinus coggygria) COTONEASTER spp.FORSYTHIA spp.WITCH HAZEL (Hamamelis spp.)IVY (Hedera spp.)CLIMBING HYDRANGEA (Hydrangea anomala sp. petiolaris)HOLLY (Ilex spp.)HONEYSUCKLE (Lonicera spp.)MAGNOLIA spp.VIRGINIA CREEPER (Parthenocissus quinquefolia)BOSTON IVY (P. tricuspidata) MOCK ORANGE (Philadelphus spp.)RHODODENDRON spp.CURRANT, GOOSEBERRY (Ribes spp.)RASPBERRY, BLACKBERRY (Rubus spp.)SPIRAEA spp.LILAC (Syringa spp.)HEMLOCK (Tsuga spp.)VIBURNUM spp.GRAPE (Vitis spp.)WISTERIA spp. Method and tips METHODIf your soil is poor, enrich it where the stem will be buried by forking in compost or well-rotted manure to a depth of 25 centimetres. Using a spade, dig a narrow trench about 20 centimetres deep at the point where the branch to be layered will lie, and long enough to accommodate the stem.Keeping the branch as flat as possible, bend it downward and lay it along the trench. (Young, green shoots won’t snap, but bending them sharply will restrict the flow of nutrients and hormones, which is vital for forming new roots.)Leave at least 15 centimetres of the tip of the stem above ground. Keep the layer in place by pegging it down with metal hoops—sections of wire hangers bent into a U-shape work well. As you fill the rest of the trench with topsoil, use a small stake to keep the exposed tip growing absolutely upright; otherwise the main stem of the new plant will lean to one side, causing uneven growth. Tread soil down firmly. Water well. Keep the layer well watered throughout the summer. Most plants will produce roots over the course of one growing season, but some may take up to three years (such as magnolia, witch hazel and broadleaf evergreens). To test if the layer is ready for transplanting, give the shoot a gentle tug; if you feel firm resistance, rooting has occurred. In the fall, to prepare the layer for transplanting, sever the branch from the parent plant using secateurs, but leave the layer in the same spot over winter so it develops a stronger root system. Transplant the following spring. QUICK TIPSFor faster rooting results, you can do one of two things: Use a sharp, sterile knife to girdle the layered stem (remove a ring of bark two centimetres wide all the way around the branch), four to five centimetres from the parent plant.Tie a piece of copper wire around the layered stem, four to five centimetres from the parent plant. Tighten the wire as much as you can using only your fingers (pliers will tighten it too much).- Credit
- Stephen Westcott-Gratton
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Video: Propagating conifers Video: Propagating conifers
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Elegant espaliered trees Elegant espaliered trees
Elegant espaliered trees ofEspalier framework for year 1 and 2 Over the years, the term “espalier” has come to mean any tree or shrub that has been trained flat against a trellis, wall or other support. The most common form is the double horizontal cordon. It has a single, strong, vertical central stem (called a leader) with horizontal limbs that grow outward from it.Year 1Build or purchase a framework upon which to train the tree, making sure it's large and strong enough to accommodate the plant's mature size, such as a rectangular wooden frame constructed of 2x4s with a central vertical support also made of wood. Starting at 40 centimetres above ground level, space horizontal supports made of strong wire or wooden dowels at 40-centimetre intervals. The frame can be mounted on a fence or wall, or anchored to sunken fence posts.In late autumn or early spring, plant a single-stemmed whip (a one-year-old tree that hasn't developed branches) 10 to 15 centimetres in front of the central support. [step 1] Cut back the leader to the first set of horizontal supports (i.e., 40 centimetres above ground level), leaving three good buds at the top, with the two lower ones pointing in opposite directions.In spring, once the plant has leafed out, tie the shoot growing from the top bud to a small stake affixed vertically to the central support. [step 2] Train the two bottom shoots on either side of the leader to garden stakes secured with ties to the horizontal supports at a 45-degree angle from the central one (training first-year branches at a 90-degree angle retards growth).In autumn, as the leaves fall and the tree goes dormant, remove the stakes and lower the two side branches to 90 degrees. Tie them directly onto the bottom tier of the horizontal supports. Then, prune back the leader to within seven or so centimetres of the top of the second tier, again making sure there are three good strong buds at the top, which will develop into the central leader and two new horizontal arms in Year 2.At this time, lateral branches (the small, twiggy shoots that have emerged from both the leader and the arms of the tree) should also be pruned to the healthiest three buds (or three leaves if they're still present) closest to the next set of horizontal supports. These twigs will then develop into flowering or fruiting spurs. Plants and materials you will need [step 3] Prune the arms of the tree by about one-third their length, cutting just above a downward-facing bud.Year 2 and subsequent years step 4] In spring, train the second tier of branches the same way you did the first tier in Year 1. Continue to cut back any competing lateral growth from the leader and the arms to only three buds. This will produce more fruiting spurs.Once you've trained as many tiers as desired (four to six is average), and the support frame is covered in branches, cut back any new growth that forms at the tips of the arms and prune out the vertical central leader so it's flush with the highest tier.MaterialsStrong wire (plastic-coated clotheslines work well) or 1⁄4" to 1⁄2" wooden dowelsAn assortment of wooden or bamboo plant stakesTies, such as twist-ties or jute twinePlants suitable to espalierApples, Pears, Vinifera-type grapes, Red currantsNote: Fruit trees should be grafted on a dwarf rootstock; otherwise growth becomes rampant.- Credit
- Stephen Westcott-Gratton
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Tips for fertilizing trees Tips for fertilizing trees
Tips for fertilizing trees ofWhen to fertilize for best results As gardeners, we worry about and provide for the nutritional needs of our flowers, vegetables and lawns-after all, these plants grow palpably before our very eyes. Trees, on the other hand, develop more slowly. We are more likely to notice their spring blossoms or vivid autumn leaf colours than their growth rates. Nevertheless, their apperance, performance and overall health can be improved with regular booster shots of fertilizer.Prime CandidatesYoung deciduous trees (three to 15 years old) have a more accelerated growth rate than mature ones and require annual feeding. Older trees and evergreens that are ade-quately irrigated (and therefore not under stress) will benefit from a feeding every second year.When to FertilizeLate spring or early summer is the best time to feed your trees. That's when they're actively growing and able to use the nutrients most effectively. Theoretically, trees can be fertilized up to eight weeks before leaf drop in the fall, but applications made late in the season may stimulate new growth that won't have a chance to harden off before freeze-up. This late growth inevitably dies back over the winter, leaving the tree susceptible to disease and insect infestation.The Grass is GreenerAvoid using lawn fertilizer within one to two metres of the outer edge of a tree's leaf canopy: many contain herbicides that can damage trees. Their formulas also have much more nitrogen (the first number on the label) than most trees require. (Excess nitrogen promotes lush, green growth on flowering trees and shrubs-such as crab-apples and lilacs-at the expense of blooms.)Hit the SpotTo be most effective, fertilizer must come into contact with a tree's small “feeder roots,” which are located at the dripline and extend out at least one metre beyond its perimeter, but just 15 to 45 centimetres below the soil surface. While deep, woody roots provide stability, only the feeder roots are capable of taking up water and nutrients. Fertilizing methods; tips for trees under stress MethodOf the many ways to deliver fertilizer to trees, one of the best is with a hose-end root feeder-a simple, widely available screw-on device in which a one-metre-long syringe is attached to the end of a garden hose. Water flows past fertilizer cartridges in the syringe to make a solution, which then passes through a hollow needle inserted 20 to 30 centimetres deep into the ground along the periphery of the tree's canopy. The advantages of this system are many. The tree is irrigated as the fertilizer solution is applied and nutrients are delivered directly to the feeder roots. Also, nearby plants remain undisturbed and no moisture is lost to evaporation. While good soil stewardship (regular applications of organic matter such as compost and shredded leaves) is one of the best ways to keep trees healthy, root feeders are especially valuable for getting young trees off to a good start or for rejuvenating mature ones that have been neglected.Keep These HungryNever fertilize trees that are under stress due to dehydration, insect infestation or disease. Horticulturists also deem newly planted trees (in their first growing season) to be “stressed out”-keep them well watered but don't fertilize until the second year. Trees that are growing in a naturalized environment where leaves are allowed to drop undisturbed (forming a mulch) and grass isn't mowed also don't require supplemental fertilizing.- Credit
- Stephen Westcott-Gratton
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Tulip booster Tulip booster
Tulip booster ofRejuvenating tulip bulbs As most gardeners know, tulips bloom best the first year after planting; thereafter, it's often a slow decline until you're eventually left with a sorry-looking patch of green leaves. Some tulips (notably species, Darwin and Triumph types) may continue to bloom season after season, but most cultivated varieties produce fewer and fewer blooms each year. When these bulbs stop producing flowers, they're known as “blind” tulips. To avoid a disappointing springtime floral display, conventional wisdom recommends lifting and discarding tulip bulbs every two or three years. With hundreds of cultivars now available, it's certainly tempting to treat them as annuals, but these throwaway practices don't help when your favourites suddenly become unavailable. Fortunately, tulips are naturally perennial, and with a modicum of effort and patience, bulbs that have exhausted their capacity to produce flowers can be brought back to floriferous splendour in a couple of years.Revitalizing regimenYear One (mid-spring): Once your tulips start producing few (or no) flower buds, feed them with a water-soluble fertilizer high in phosphorus (the middle number), such as 15-30-15, every 10 days until the foliage begins to turn yellow and wither. Never bind or braid the leaves, as this interferes with the bulbs' ability to store food for the following year. Making it a yearly treatment for best results Year One (early to midsummer): When maturing foliage begins to turn brown, it's time to lift and inspect the bulbs. You'll find that the “parent bulb” has shrivelled and been replaced by several smaller bulbs; keep the offspring for replanting (discard the parent bulb along with the garden waste).Now collect the small bulbs, trim off any remaining stems and dislodge soil with a jet of water. Then leave them to dry in an open, airy space for one week (a window screen laid flat and raised off the ground works well).Meanwhile, find a small, dry patch of the garden where you can cosset your bulbs in a separate nursery bed without disturbing other plants (allow enough room in the patch to space bulbs 10 centimetres apart). Prepare the bed by digging the soil to a depth of 25 centimetres and adding composted manure until a ratio of one part soil to one part manure is attained. To speed up the flowering process, mix super-phosphate formulated for bulbs into the soil, but avoid using bone meal because it may attract unwanted animals.Once the bulbs are completely dry and the nursery bed is ready, plant them 15 centimetres deep and water well. After the initial watering, do not irrigate again until early autumn. Being natives of Turkey (where summers are hot and dry), tulips require a long, dry “bake” underground. So, it's no wonder that when we plant them in mixed borders and water them regularly, they decrease in vigour and become susceptible to disease.To complete the planting, either mulch the bulb bed with a thin (three-centimetre-deep) layer of wood chips (to discourage weeds) or over-plant with drought-tolerant annuals such as cosmos, mari-golds, portulaca and sage (Salvia cvs.), which will suppress weeds by acting as “living mulch.” Once the bulbs have been planted, and the bed mulched, you can forget about them until the next season.Year two (spring):Generally, about one-third of these bulbs will produce flower buds; cut the buds off when they appear or as soon as they open (you can pop them in a vase and enjoy their blooms indoors). Then, repeat the fertilizing regime followed that first spring by feeding the bulbs with a water-soluble fertilizer high in phosphorus and letting them bake for a second summer.Year two (autumn): Lift the revitalized bulbs from the nursery bed and replant them in your borders. Or, if bulbs are still undersized, leave them for yet another season until they're large enough to be planted in the garden.- Credit
- Stephen Westcott-Gratton
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Making compost Making compost
Making compost ofThe benefits of composting No matter what you do, organic materials eventually break down. Decay is inevitable. But -- and it's a big but -- there's a difference between controlled decomposition, as found in a healthy, working compost pile, and the smelly mess of rotting materials in a bin gone bad.Anyone who has had a bad composting experience (and I confess to having had a few over the years) can tell horror stories of scary-movie magnitude, but the good news is that it's relatively straightforward to create healthy, sweet-smelling compost (often dubbed "gardener's gold" by compost enthusiasts). And the benefits are beyond doubt: compost returns nutrients and organic matter to the soil, feeds beneficial micro-organisms and earthworms, and improves the texture, oxygen-retaining capabilities and moisture-holding capacity of soil. In other words, compost helps create healthy gardens. Beyond its benefit to gardens, however, there's another compelling reason to have some form of composting system in your yard: putting garden and kitchen waste in a compost pile removes these materials (or "good garbage," as my grandmother used to say) from the waste stream. As debates about landfill sites and garbage incineration heat up across Canada, we can all do our bit to reduce the waste our households contribute by heating them up -- literally -- in a compost bin.Composting can be seen as a kind of culinary alchemy in which a balanced recipe of ingredients is mixed in a bin or pile. As the mixture breaks down it generates heat, which accelerates the process, and it's eventually transformed into finished compost. The cooking metaphor is apt.You can take the low-tech approach by simply piling garden cuttings in a corner of the yard and ignoring them for a year. But if you follow the method described on these pages, your compost should be ready to harvest in three to six months. Choose a ContainerFirst, you need some kind of structure to contain your composting materials. Options range from store-bought, plastic single bins to homemade, wooden three-bin units. One of the most popular ready-mades is the black plastic SoilSaver, which has a capacity of .36 cubic metres, a locking lid, and doors at the bottoms of two sides. The advantages of this kind of unit are that it's easy to dig finished compost out of the side doors, and it's relatively pest-proof (particularly if you put bricks on top of the lid - urban raccoons have been known to undo the locking mechanism). The black plastic helps the pile to retain the heat it generates, and also to trap solar heat, assuming it's in a sunny location - preferable, but not necessary.Three-bin units are useful if you've got a large property, since you'll have more leaves, grass clippings and plant debris. When the compost in the first chamber is partially finished, use a pitchfork to transfer it to the second bin, making sure the coarser materials around the sides of the original pile are in the centre of the new one; start from scratch in the first bin. A few weeks later, transfer material in bin two to bin three, and bin one to two, starting over in bin one. This is a good way to aerate the pile; also, materials in the three bins are at various levels of decomposition - an efficient way of making compost.No matter what type of bin you use, cover it to keep pests out and heat and moisture in, although it also needs vents for airflow. (This is why wooden models typically have spaces between the slats.) Another selling point is a wide opening at the top so you can stir the mixture easily. What ingredients you need for the compost pile The IngredientsControlled and speedy decomposition is all about balance. If your compost pile is too full of "browns" -- compost lingo for carbon-rich materials such as dead leaves, straw and dead plant stalks -- then your pile will be slow to decompose. On the other hand, if the pile is too full of "greens" -- nitrogen-rich materials such as fresh food scraps and grass clippings -- it will turn slimy and smell bad. The goal is to have equal amounts, roughly by weight, of browns and greens. The ideal carbon-to-nitrogen ratio for decomposition is about 30:1. Dead leaves (browns) have a C:N ratio of approximately 40:1 to 80:1, while fresh grass clippings (greens) have a ratio of 19:1. But there's no need to obsess: your eyes, nose and common sense will tell you if you've got roughly the right balance.The other ingredient you should add to the pile is soil; it supplies starter micro-organisms - bacteria and other microscopic organisms that digest and excrete organic materials, breaking them down. Soil also masks the odour of food waste, which discourages pests from visiting your pile - and it's easier to keep pests out than to dislodge them once they've arrived.Store-bought compost accelerators are generally nitrogen-rich to balance the bulk of compost materials -- dead leaves -- that are heavy on carbon. But if you're already adding a balance of green and brown materials, there's no need to include supplemental nitrogen.Recipe InstructionsTo achieve even greater balance and the speediest possible decomposition, layer the browns and greens, and build the pile all at once. This works well when you've got a lot of grass clippings for greens and dead leaves for browns. I always keep a big bag of dead leaves by my bin - that way, I have a ready source of browns even in spring and summer. But who wants to stockpile rotting vegetables? Add them for greens as they become available.Begin with a mixture of dead plant stalks - this loose, lower layer permits air circulation at the bottom of the pile, which is important to controlled decomposition. (A densely compacted pile may start to smell bad.) Then, add a layer (approximately 15 centimetres) of greens, such as coffee grounds, vegetable peelings and grass clippings. Sprinkle a 2.5- to five-centimetre layer of soil over the greens, and add a thick layer (approximately 30 centimetres) of dead leaves, straw or dried garden clippings. Repeat this layering process of greens, soil and browns until the bin is full. Other factors for speedy, efficient composting Cooking the PileAlong with the correct ratio of browns to greens, there are two other factors that contribute to speedy, effective composting: adequate moisture and oxygen flow. Again, it's a matter of balance. The materials should be as moist as a wrung-out sponge; if you've piled in dry leaves, for example, it's a good idea to run a garden hose to the top of the pile and soak it for a few minutes. Or, you can add water to each brown layer as you build the pile; chances are the green layers are already moist.The best way to ensure adequate air movement is to stir the pile every week or so. You can use a commercially available compost turner, a pitchfork or a sharp stick. (I've even used an old broom handle.) While you're turning the pile, check the moisture level, and add water if necessary - think of the wrung-out sponge for guidance. Move the materials at the sides to the centre, where the temperature can reach 52 degrees Celsius or more, so all materials get cooked.Earthworms around the base of the pile are a good sign; they help micro-organisms break down the debris.Fresh from the Oven You'll know your compost is ready when it looks and smells like soil. Dig it out; screen out any small bits of undigested materials and throw them back in. Spread compost throughout the garden: top-dress your lawn with a thin layer, dig it into new beds, or mound it around the base of established plants. You'll soon discover, as committed compost enthusiasts everywhere have, that you can never have enough. SPOILING THE POTWhile most organic materials can be added to a compost pile, a few waste categories should be avoided because they may carry pathogens or attract pests: meat; fish; dairy products; fatty, oily foods; bones; used cat litter and other pet waste. As well, some materials, such as corn cobs and small twigs, take a long time to break down, so you may need to screen them out of your finished compost and put them in again to decompose further.- Credit
- Lorraine Johnson
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Compost basics Compost basics
Compost basics ofThe ultimate recycling magic - composting Making compost is the ultimate in recycling magic. With little effort and virtually no expense, you can transform vegetable and fruit peelings, grass clippings and garden waste into dark, rich, crumbly compost.Along with improving soil texture and providing nutrients to plants, compost conserves water and helps control soil erosion. It also results in less waste going to landfill sites. According to Susan Antler, executive director of the Compost Council of Canada, if everyone-industry, restaurants and private citizens-across the country composted, we could reduce the amount of garbage destined for our landfills by half. Highly versatile, compost can be dug into the garden, or used as a top dressing or as a mulch; it also adds valuable nutrients when transplanting. There is no mystery to making good compost. A compost pile mimics the process nature uses to break down organic matter by combining nitrogen (found in kitchen scraps, coffee grounds, egg shells, green grass clippings, fresh plant trimmings and weeds, and manure) and carbon (such as dry, brown plant material like dead leaves, grass or plants, wood products and paper) with air and water.Simply heap all the ingredients together in an open pile, add water and turn it regularly with a shovel. Enclosed bins, which promote faster decomposition and discourage rodents, are best, particularly in urban areas (many municipalities or compost education centres sell bins at reduced rates). You can also make your own composter out of scrap wood. To discourage rodents but maintain air circulation, line it with wire mesh (ensure the openings are no greater than one to two centimetres). Put your compost pile in an easily accessible area near a water source, but away from sheds, dense shrubs or bird feeders. Ensure the ground is level and provides good drainage. A partly sunny exposure is helpful but not essential. (For how to layer your compost pile, see “In Good Order,” next page.) Composting do's and don'ts; green bin programs Turn the pile weekly and water as needed. The mixture should feel like a wrung-out sponge to the touch. If you can squeeze water from a handful of material, it's too wet. Finished compost should be dark brown, loose and crumbly (not powdery), with no weeds, and it should have a sweet, earthy smell. It's generally ready to use between four months and two years from when it was started. Why such a wide gap in time? Because compost piles are forgiving. Even when you neglect it, don't get the ratios quite right or make your pile a little too big or small, the materials always eventually break down-like magic.GOING GREENSome Canadian cities have implemented green bin programs that allow residents who have curbside collection to put out organics (fruit and vegetable scraps, paper towels, coffee grinds, for example) for separate collection along with garbage and recycling. The material is diverted from landfills and is instead turned into reusable compost. Halifax and Edmonton have green bin-type programs, as has Toronto and some of its suburbs. “In the same way the blue box program has swept the nation, I see the green box program as the way of the future,” says Geoff Rathbone, director of policy and planning, waste management services, City of Toronto. “Certainly in the next few years, I expect the entire Golden Horseshoe area of Ontario to be on board.” And he believes the program will spread as cities look for ways to cope with overflowing landfills.DOS and DON'TSDo chop compost materials into small pieces, which break down faster.Do cover food waste with soil or dry leaves to discourage flies.Do cover compost piles in winter and prolonged periods of heavy rain.Do not add meat, bones, grease, pet waste, diseased plant materials or lawn clippings that have been sprayed with chemicals.Do not compost rhubarb leaves-they contain chemicals that may be toxic to organisms in the soil if the leaves haven't fully decomposed before you use the compost.Do not add invasive plants or weeds with persistent root systems or seeds (weeds in flower are fine). Various composting problems and solutions IN GOOD ORDERStart your compost pile by laying down about 15 centimetres of rough plant material, such as stalks or twigs, to encourage air flow into the pile. Add a nitrogen layer of kitchen scraps and/or fresh plant trimmings, followed by a carbon layer of dry, brown plant material. Layers should be between five and 15 centimetres deep (see “Size Matters” below). One layer each of nitrogens and carbons is adequate to start; follow with a 2.5- to five-centimetre layer of garden soil or finished compost. Repeat with alternating nitrogen and carbon layers as kitchen waste and trimmings become available, but always end with a carbon layer on top to discourage flies and rodents. Aim for a pile that's between one cubic metre and 3.5 cubic metres in size.SIZE MATTERSSize Matters Should a compost layer be five or 15 centimetres deep? It depends on the season, region and the size of particles and type of materials in each layer. The goal is to promote the speedy breakdown of ingredients. So it follows that thinner layers are more efficient in cold regions and weather; and are also appropriate when the ingredients are chunky. Nitrogen-rich layers (especially those with fresh grass clippings) heat up quickly, so they can be thicker than carbon layers, which take longer to decompose.PROBLEMS SOLUTIONSCompost piles sometimes need a kick-start in spring to get them working efficiently again. And, depending on the weather, they might need adjusting during the growing season, too. PROBLEMSOLUTION Bad odour (not enough air circulation or pile too wet) Turn pile; add coarse, dry material such as straw and shredded leaves Too dry Mix in a few handfuls of soil and some moist kitchen scraps or coffee grounds; water pile, cover and let sit. Check weekly; if it's still too dry, repeat Too wet Turn pile and add dry materials such as straw, dry leaves (not fresh), sawdust, even lint from the dryer. Keep it uncovered (except in periods of prolonged heavy rain) and check weekly. Apply the touch test: a handful of material should be as moist as a wrung-out sponge Too cold or too weedy To heat things up (which helps to kill weed seeds), add some high-nitrogen materials such as kitchen scraps, fresh grass clippings or manure Failure to decompose If there are layers of fresh leaves or grass clippings, break them up by mixing in straw, hay (but no hay seeds) or dry leaves. If large chunks are not decomposing, sift pile through a screen or use a soil shredder. The resulting fine material can be used as the base for a new compost heap Damp and warm in the middle but dry elsewhere Pile is too small; collect more material and mix it in. Or turn the heap more frequently Damp and sweet-smelling but will not heat up Needs more nitrogen; mix in fresh grass clippings or fresh manure Pest infestations (dogs, rodents, insects such as flies, bees, wasps and ants) Improper food scraps added; don't add meat, fats, bones or pet waste. Cover food scraps with soil or other carbon materials; turn pile weekly- Credit
- Laura Langston
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Lilac renovation Lilac renovation
Lilac renovation ofOverhauling your shrubs in year one Lilacs are sentimental favourites with most gardeners-their blowsy form and sweet fragrance conjures up cherished memories of days gone by. But nostalgia aside, these vigorous shrubs can become overgrown in just a few years, which can result in plants that produce fewer blooms and are increasingly susceptible to disease.Ideally, lilacs should be deadheaded annually, as soon as their flowers begin to fade. Also, as much as one-third of the shrub can be pruned out to increase light levels and air circulation. But the reality is that most of us find ourselves busy with myriad other garden-related chores at this busy time of year, and quite often, the lilacs get overlooked.So, what should you do if you find yourself faced with an overgrown catastrophe? Clearly, drastic measures are called for. One option is just to dig up the offending plant and replace it. As an alternative, you can try to rejuvenate the shrub by giving it a severe pruning. Luckily, lilacs have amazing regenerative powers and can revert to their former glory in a relatively short period of time.Hard pruning takes a certain amount of chutzpah on the gardener's part (and you'll have to sacrifice blooms for a year or two), but it's an easy process and the results are well worth overcoming any trepidation you may feel.YEAR 1In late winter or very early spring (while the plant is still dormant), cut down all dead or weak stems to ground level, then saw back the main woody stems to within 20 to 30 centimetres of the base of the shrub. (You can identify dead stems by scratching off a small section of outer bark with your thumbnail: if the wood below is green, then the stem is alive; if it's grey or brown, the stem is dead.) Make cuts on an angle whenever possible to discourage water from collecting, and pare back any rough sections of bark with a sharp knife to aid healing.As the weather gets warmer (mid-spring), it's essential to provide plenty of food for the lilac, so mulch the area above the visible roots with a good layer (seven to 10 centimetres deep, one metre in diameter) of compost or composted manure; keep the area well watered. For the next two years, the mulch should be replenished in the spring, as soon as the plant breaks dormancy. Controlling your shrubs in the following years YEAR 2Drastic pruning stimulates dormant buds on the remaining stumps, and usually large clusters of new shoots develop. During the winter, prune back the majority of these shoots to their point of origin, leaving two or three of the strongest, best-placed shoots on each stump to form the framework of the rejuvenated lilac.Continue to keep the shrub well mulched and watered during this year. Any woody stumps that fail to produce new shoots should be cut out cleanly at ground level.YEAR 3By now the framework of the renovated shrub will have taken shape. Prune to encourage an open, airy branching structure, and if your lilac sends up a few blooms, remember to deadhead them.YEAR 4Enjoy your thoroughly revitalized, floriferous lilac. And if you want to avoid performing similar future horticultural amputations, remember to prune your shrubs lightly each year right after their flowers begin to fade.- Credit
- Stephen Westcott-Gratton
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A safe way to protect trees A safe way to protect trees
A safe way to protect trees ofControl insects and disease with horticultural oil sprays Horticultural oil sprays have been used for more than a century on fruit trees to control insects and disease. Traditionally, these sprays, aimed at killing overwintering insects, were applied in late winter while trees were dormant. Today, with improved oil-refining techniques, gardeners can take advantage of lightweight, high-quality oils suitable for combatting pests and disease, on many trees, vegetables and flowers throughout the growing season. These updated formulas are variously referred to as summer, superior or supreme oils.Horticultural oils act against insects in several different ways. Most importantly, they block the pests' breathing pores (spiracles), eventually causing asphyxiation. Additionally, the oil can penetrate insects' thin membranes and eggs, leading to cell death. Treatments also interfere with the ability of some insects to feed on plant tissue. The majority of horticultural oils are made of mineral oil and water, to which an emulsifier has been added. In the past, they contained impurities that could easily burn foliage, but this is rarely a problem with modern oil mixtures.One of the greatest advantages of oil as an insecticide is that it's effective only in liquid form. Once dried, it's harmless and poses no threat to people or pets. Almost miraculously, it also has little effect on beneficial insects, such as ladybugs and green lacewings, which are able to get out of the way while the oil is applied; by the time they return, it has dried. These oils also prevent many plant viruses that are spread by insects- particularly aphids-and, when diluted and mixed with a small amount of baking soda, they help control powdery mildew.These formulas are best applied with a hose-end sprayer. Because brands can differ significantly in viscosity and purity, it's essential to follow the manufacturer's directions to the letter. Formerly, dormant (late-winter) oils were often mixed with lime-sulfur compounds to intensify their effectiveness, but I prefer to be cautious and use these ingredients separately, several weeks apart. Products containing sulfur should never be used during the growing season.For best results when using summer oils, thoroughly water target plants one or two days before applying to ensure turgid foliage. And, because the goal is for the oil to evaporate quickly, spray leaves when humidity is low and no rain is forecast for at least 36 hours. I like to apply the oil early in the morning after the dew is off the foliage so that it's completely dry by mid-morning. Avoid using oil sprays on these sensitive trees DAMAGE CONTROLHorticultural oils control different pests at different times of the year.Dormant season (March to April across most of Canada): aphids that cause leaf curl in spring, overwintering caterpillar eggs (tent caterpillars, leaf rollers), overwintering mites (especially on conifers) and overwintering scale insects (especially on magnolias and euonymus).Growing season (June to August): aphids (all species), mites and spider mites, leafhoppers, scale insects, whitefly; and many insect-borne viruses, as well as powdery mildew.SENSITIVE TREE TYPESSome plant species are naturally sensitive to oil sprays of any kind. Don't use horticultural oils on:Maple (Acer spp., especially Japanese and red maple)Japanese laurel (Aucuba japonica)Hickory (Carya spp.)Redbud (Cercis canadensis)Smoke tree (Cotinus coggygria)Japanese cedar (Cryptomeria japonica)Butternut (Juglans cinerea)Black walnut (Juglans nigra)Juniper (Juniperus spp.)Spruce (Picea spp., especially dwarf Alberta spruce)Douglas fir (Pseudotsuga menziesii)Cedar (Thuja spp.)- Credit
- Stephen Westcott-Gratton
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Pruning know-how Pruning know-how
Pruning know-how ofWhen should you prune Few gardening chores are approached with more trepidation than pruning. In reality, it's a relatively simple process that requires a little basic knowledge, some common sense and the proper tools.The number-one rule of pruning is don't fight nature. When selecting flowering shrubs, save yourself some work by carefully considering the ultimate size of the plant and where it is to be located. Pruning should enhance the natural shape and performance of your shrub, not disguise mistakes made in plant selection or placement. Prune to remove dead or damaged wood or unwanted growth, improve shape or create special effects, rejuvenate old plants, and promote flowering, fruit production, or colourful stems or foliage.When should you prune?An old adage says, “Prune when the knife is sharp,” but it is wrong to suggest that effective pruning can be done at any time. As a general rule of thumb, avoid pruning any flowering shrub in late summer or autumn because this can stimulate tender new growth, which is susceptible to damage by cold temperatures. Spring flowering shrubs such as forsythia, purple sandcherry, flowering almond, lilac and mockorange bloom on the previous season's growth, sometimes referred to as “old wood.” In other words, the flowers we see this April, May and June actually developed on the plant late last summer. For maximum flower production next year, prune spring flowering shrubs immediately after they bloom.Summer and early-autumn flowering shrubs such as butterfly bush, rose of Sharon and Peegee hydrangea bloom on the current season's growth or “new wood,” which means flowers have developed since growth started that spring. These plants should be pruned just as growth starts in spring. Rejuvenate an overgrown shrub Pruning know-howStart with clean, sharp, good-quality tools appropriate for the job at hand. To prevent the possible spread of disease, clean your tools after pruning each plant with a solution of one part chlorine bleach or rubbing alcohol diluted with ten parts water. A spray bottle of solution works efficiently and reduces mess.Mature flowering shrubs benefit from a pruning every two to three years. This helps maintain the plant's health and vigor and enhances its appearance.First, remove any dead or diseased wood. Next, select two to four of the oldest, largest stems, equally spaced around the shrub. When removing old stems, try to make the cut as close to the base of the stem as possible.You may need to prune some of the younger stems and suckers as well-start by removing any branches that are crossing or rubbing against each other, then prune those that look out of place or are crowding the centre of the plant. Aim to leave a balanced variety of old and new, big and small stems.In general, to head back a stem that's too long, make the cut just above a bud that is facing in the direction you want the new growth to go-usually toward the outside of the plant. This keeps the centre of the shrub open, which is important for good air circulation, and looks more natural. If the plant has opposite leaves and one bud is facing in the wrong direction, simply rub it off. Do not leave stubs above the buds, as they will die.How to rejuvenate an overgrown shrubIt may be necessary to take more drastic action to rejuvenate an overgrown flowering shrub: cut back all stems to within five centimetres of the base in late winter or early spring before new growth starts. Flowers will be sacrificed for the first year, and it may take a season or two for the plant to recover completely, but the overall improvement can be dramatic. Once the plant has returned to a normal size, implement a regular two- to three-year pruning regimen. Using the right tools Some shrubs benefit from an annual or frequent hard cutting back. For example, red osier dogwood, which is grown for its colourful stems, should be pruned every few years, as the youngest stems have the brightest colour. And a number of somewhat tender and late-flowering shrubs, such as butterfly bush, hills-of-snow hydrangea and blue spirea, should be cut back each spring. USE THE RIGHT TOOL FOR THE JOB toolmax. cutting diameter Hand pruners2 cm Lopping shears3.5 cm Hedge shears1.25 cm Pruning saw70 cm- Credit
- Chris Graham
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A fresh start A fresh start
A fresh start ofStarting the seeds; germination Just when I'm beginning to feel that winter is never going to end, the first seed catalogue arrives in the mail. Almost as welcome as the first snowdrop, it marks the beginning of a delightful time of year for gardeners-a chance to consider the many plant possibilities and anticipate next season's garden.Starting the SeedsContainer options include plastic cell packs, peat or plastic pots, soil blocks (which are subsequently planted directly into the ground) and recycled items such as milk cartons or yogurt containers with holes punched in the bottom. The plastic trays with corrugated bottoms available from garden centres are ideal for holding the containers.You can use either a soilless mix or potting soil, but the planting medium must be able to absorb and hold moisture, be fluffy so it won't form a crust, and be free from weed seeds and soil-borne diseases, which can cause damping off (see “Dirty, Rotten Scoundrels,” below). After filling containers, press soil down gently but firmly; don't pack it too hard. Water until it's moist but not soggy. There are several different seed-sowing techniques you can employ. An easy, dependable method is to plant several seeds in each individual cell pack or container. Very tiny seeds, and those requiring light to germinate, should be pressed into the surface of the soil but not covered. For most other seeds, make a small hole with a blunt pencil or similar implement and plant the seed about twice as deep as its size.Label each container with a waterproof marker and record the date, type and variety name. Keep a separate record of the source of the seeds and germination requirements, leaving room for future notes. Over the years, this record book will be a valuable resource.GerminationCover the containers with clear plastic (such as dry-cleaning bags) to preserve moisture; for seeds that need to be kept in the dark to germinate, use black or green garbage bags. If light is required, site seeds where they'll receive indirect light. For seeds needing warm temperatures, there are several options. My favourite spot used to be on top of an older, energy-inefficient refrigerator. Alternatively, you could use heating cables (available from garden centres), or put the containers under grow lights, leaving them on continuously. Start with the lights well above (about 30 cm) the containers, and put a thermometer under the plastic. Keep lowering the lights until the desired temperature (see charts on next page) is reached. I generally check every 20 to 30 minutes or so initially.Dirty, rotten scoundrelsSeveral fungi that live in the soil can cause damping off, a disease that attacks stems at the soil line, causing seedlings to rot and fall over; overwatering makes seedlings more susceptible. To help prevent damping off, let the soil surface dry out between waterings. If stems become infected, however, cut out the affected seedlings immediately and discard. Other preventive measures include applying a one-time dusting of cinnamon powder after seeds are sown and watered (before seeds sprout); watering or misting with weak camomile tea; or using commercial products such as No-Damp. -Anne Marie Van Nest Growing, transplanting to the garden GrowingInspect the containers regularly for signs of germination. As soon as seeds sprout, remove the plastic and transfer seedlings to an area with bright light and a cooler temperature: grow lights left on for 16 hours a day are ideal, or place plants in a sunny southern window.Keep the soil damp but not soggy, using room-temperature water. For soilless mixes, feed with half-strength fertilizer (with low, roughly equal nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium numbers) when the first true leaves appear, then twice a week thereafter. For potting soils, start fertilizing two weeks after the leaves appear, fertilizing every 10 to 14 days thereafter.Once the seedlings have their first true leaves, thin to the most vigorous seedling per container. When the leaves begin to touch, transplant to a larger container.Transplanting to the GardenBefore planting out, move seedlings to a sheltered location outside. Gradually introduce them to cooler temperatures and direct sunlight, starting with one hour of morning sun and increasing it by an hour or so daily. Bring seedlings inside if frost threatens. Don't plant heat-loving varieties outdoors too soon, as they will never recover from the shock or, worse, die.Dig a hole several times larger than the root ball and mix in lots of compost and some organic fertilizer. Place the seedling in the hole; fill in with extra soil, firming it gently, then water. Keep it moist until a root system is established. If frost threatens, cover vulnerable plants.PerennialsNamed hybrid varieties of perennials, such as daylilies, irises and peonies, will not come true from seed. Although the offspring may not be the same as their parents, it can be exciting to see what you get.While some perennials are easy to grow, others require more effort and patience than vegetable seeds. Some take weeks to germinate and others take a long time to grow to flowering size (peonies, for example, can take five or more years). Many perennial seeds need a period of cold that mimics the winter they'd experience germinating outside, so you need to condition those ones in the refrigerator.The perennials listed in the chart (last page) are hardy, fairly easy to start from seed and don't require a cold period. Unless otherwise specified, sow about twice as deep as the width of the seed. Providing essential light Hello, sunshineGrow lights provide essential light that some seeds need to germinate. Whether you're starting off small or trying to rival your local nursery, there are models available to fit your space and your budget. Here are three styles to help bring the sun indoors. If you're starting off with just a few seeds, a full-spectrum, compact, fluorescent light is your best bet. This model (above), available through Urban Gardening Essentials, is energy-efficient and easy on the wallet. Its standard-sized base means you can use an existing light fixture or purchase any inexpensive fixture you please.For more ambitious seed projects, Hydrofarm's Green Thumb Light System takes full-spectrum fluorescent technology to the next level. A one-touch height adjustment makes controlling light intensity a breeze. Available in either two- or four-foot-wide units, this system includes an aluminum stand, light fixture and two fluorescent tubes. Floralight's three-tier system can accommodate thousands of seeds and up to 240 pots that are 10 centimetres wide. It has extra-wide reflectors that evenly distribute light, and waterproof garden trays that allow for easy bottom watering. The system includes six Ultra Gold full-spectrum fluorescent tubes, which emit both blue (for vegetative) and red (for flowering) light spectrums.-Nancy WonWhere to find themBrite-Lite/Que Pousse: Green Thumb Light System: call for pricing, $159; Floralight 3-tier system, $849.95. Bustan Urban Gardening Essentials: full spectrum compact fluorescent bulb: 26W, $27; 65W, $54. Ikea: Foto pendant lamp fixture, $14.99. Just ’N Tyme Greenhouse: Green Thumb Light System: 2-foot, $149; 4-foot, $159; Floralight 3-tier system, $499.99. Sheridan Nurseries Ltd.: Floralight 3-tier system, $599.99.Lee Valley Tools Ltd.: Floralight 3-tier system, $495. Seed-starting vegetables Seed-starting vegetablesVeggies are easy to start from seed. Some, however, such as cucumbers, melons, okra and squash, don't like to be transplanted; these should be started in peat pots (biodegradable pots are fine, as long as they break down fairly quickly) or individual containers instead of cell packs, removing the plants carefully during transplanting so their roots are not disturbed.LEGEND TO TABLE ABOVE:LF = Weeks before last spring frostND = Weeks before there is no danger of frostP = Start in individual pots or cell packs so roots are not disturbed during transplantingNote: Germination time is approximate and depends on temperature and vitality of seeds Seed-starting perennials LEGEND FOR TABLE ABOVEDT = Dislikes transplantingL = Requires lightP = Use peat potsPS = Press in soil surface; do not coverS = Soak seeds for 24 hours before planting*Germination time is approximate and depends on temperature and vitality of seeds- Credit
- Heather Apple
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Stair repair Stair repair
Stair repair ofCreating easier access The new homeowner (okay, my son, Mark) was ecstatic with his purchase, but there were a few drawbacks. One of them was the front path-a dangerous eyesore. The awkward, narrow, too-high step and wobbly, crumbling concrete made footing precarious. We tackled the problem with the help of Kelvin, a professional mason from Andrew's Restoration (instructions for building the retaining wall will be featured in a future issue).We decided to widen the approach to create easier access and a generous platform leading up to the porch (the neighbour's narrow, concrete walkway had to remain). We created a comfortable ascent by adding an extra step (to calculate how many steps you need, see “Step Right Up,” below). For the step risers and retaining wall, we chose Allan Block Junior, an economical, Canadian-made interlocking wall system, and for the treads and path, we invested in a few slabs of showy, Indiana Buff split-face sandstone, cut to fit as needed (see “Engraved in Stone,” below). You might prefer random-cut flagstones or concrete or brick pavers.Fortunately, the soil is light and sandy and the space small, so digging it out by hand was relatively quick and easy. If your pathway is longer than six metres (20 feet) or your soil a root-bound, heavy clay, Steve Maxwell, technical editor for sister publication Canadian Home Workshop, recommends you rent the services of a micro-excavator and operator to remove the soil. And while you're at it, rent a tamper, too (if, like us, you have a tiny area to cover and opt to use a manual one, the 20-by-20-centimetre [eight-by-eight-inch] size is easiest to handle). To avoid injury, always lift heavy materials from your knees, and wear safety glasses, gloves and sturdy shoes (preferably steel-toed workboots).STEP RIGHT UPUsing imperial measurements, here are two basic formulas for determining the correct ratio between risers and treads (known as rise over run):Riser + tread = 17 (for example, if your riser is seven inches tall, your tread depth should be 10 inches). Or: riser x tread (in inches) should equal 70 to 75.For surer footing in bad weather, exterior steps are generally broader, deeper and lesssteep than interior ones.ENGRAVED IN STONEIf using a circular saw to cut stone, you'll need to install a diamond-tipped blade. Measure your cutline and mark it; then make a series of one-centimetre (1/2-inch) deep cuts until you're halfway through the stone. A sharp tap with a maul (a heavy, long-handled hammer) should complete the break. Small adjustments, such as trimming corners, can be made by carefully chipping away with a two-pound hand mallet and cold chisel (it's dusty work, so wear safety glasses and a mask). Step-by-step visual guide [1] (top photo) The old concrete is broken up with a rented jackhammer and hauled away to the dump. (Note to Kelvin: It's a good idea to don a dust mask and hearing protection when using a jackhammer or stone-cutting saw.) The site was dug down to a depth of 25 centimetres (10 inches) and topped up with 15 centimetres (six inches) of limestone screenings (to calculate how deep you need to dig, factor in the thickness of your paving material, too). Slowly add fill with a shovel, smoothing and levelling it with a screed, a straight piece of wood. (Although we didn't have to worry too much about factoring in the grade away from the house because there's a natural slope, you might need to-about six millimetres [1/4 inch] per running foot works fine.) Tamp down well-for larger projects, Steve Maxwell suggests a minimum of three passes with a gas-powered tamper. Next, lay landscape cloth (to subdue weeds) on top of the screenings (don't substitute black plastic, which doesn't drain), followed by five centimetres (two inches) of clean, sharp sand, also tamped down well. Check level and slope.[2] The first course of sandstone slabs is laid, butted against and flush with the city sidewalk. The stones were rough-fitted and trimmed as needed. Be sure to leave a six millimetre (1/4 inch) space between slabs for sand. (Kelvin recommends using polymeric sand, which, though tricky to apply, is worth the effort. See “Sandy Tips,” page 36.)[3] (middle photo) The risers for the first step are put into position, tapped in place with a rubber mallet, then checked for levelness.[4] The hollows in the blocks are filled with gravel; an additional 15 centimetres (six inches) behind the blocks is backfilled with gravel for stability and drainage. An area for the first stair tread (the width of one slab) is built up with screenings and sand and compacted well, then checked for levelness and slope. A second riser and the path to the porch are prepared the same way.[5] (bottom photo) Working from the porch down, stone slabs are dry-fitted. Those resting on the risers are secured with a thin bead of Sonneborn Premium Adhesive, applied with a caulking gun (it bonds permanently, so wear gloves).[6] After ensuring slabs are level, spaces between stones are cleaned out a bit to make more room for the polymeric sand.[7] Polymeric sand is worked deep into spaces between slabs using a stiff brush.SOURCESAndrew's Restoration Ltd., 1138 15th Sdrd., Oak Ridges, ON L7B 1K5; 905/773-9771.Beaver Valley Stone Ltd., 25 Langstaff Rd. E., Thornhill, ON L3T 3P7; 416/222-2424: Allan Block Junior, $2.87/piece; Indiana split-face limestone, $24.19/linear foot.Advanced Building Materials, 770 Chester St., Sarnia, ON N7S 5N1; 800/216-9923: Sonneborn Premium Adhesive, 300mL $4.95; 825mL $12.25.Aqua Supply Inc., 3828 15A St. SE, Calgary, AB T2G 3N8; 403/262-3929: 825mL $8.65.The Brickyard of Canada Inc., 4570 Sann Rd., Unit 2, Beamsville, ON L0R 1B1; 905/563-8660: Sonneborn Premium Adhesive, 300mL, $6.98.Entreprises Givesco, 9495 Pascal Gagnon, St-Léonard, QC H1P 1Z4; 514/327-7175: Sonneborn Premium Adhesive, 300mL, $4.95; 825mL, $12.25.- Credit
- Aldona Satterthwaite
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Easy new flower beds Easy new flower beds
Easy new flower beds ofHow to make a new flower bed The mere mention of removing turf grass for new flower beds is enough to give me a backache, so I've taken a particular interest in an increasingly popular, easier way to eliminate grass. It's been dubbed everything from “turf recapturing” to “lawn-busting.” The concept is simple: smother turf grass using newspapers, composted manure and mulch, and be ready to plant new beds within 60 days. An environmentally sound technique, it will also save countless visits to the chiropractor.HOW-TO1 Begin by determining the perimeter and shape of your new bed, then mow the grass within the area to a uniform height of five centimetres. Next, spread newspapers over the mown grass (be sure to use newsprint-glossy paper doesn't break down nearly as quickly). It's essential to wet the news-papers thoroughly to hasten decomposition, so hose down each layer as it's applied until it becomes a soggy mat, two to three centimetres thick.2 (shown here) To further speed up decomposition, cover the soggy paper with materials high in nitrogen, such as blood meal and composted manure. Dust the wet newsprint with blood meal, just enough to make it adhere, then add a layer of composted manure about four centimetres deep. The manure helps retain moisture, weighs down the newspapers and supplies the beneficial micro-organisms vital for healthy, productive soil.3 To “seal” the concoction, finish off the area with five to seven centimetres of chunky hardwood mulch. This will hold the bottom layers in place and discourage weed seeds from germinating while the plot remains fallow. Some gardeners recommend using black plastic instead, but I find that it inhibits air circulation, which causes the layers to decay and putrefy rather than decompose naturally. Once sealed, thoroughly re-water the entire area.4 For the next 45 to 60 days, keep the area moist by spraying the mulch with water; if it's allowed to dry out completely, decomposition comes to a crashing halt. After about a month and a half, test the soil: Use a trowel to dig several small holes in different places in the bed. If the newspaper has disappeared and the grass below has been suffocated, then it's time to plant.5 When planting the bed, try not to disturb the soil; it's best to scoop out a plug of earth just large enough to slip in a plant, then gently replace the mulch around it. Within two to three years, the reclaimed newspaper bed will look as if it's been there for decades-and without having removed a single blade of grass.See more step-by-step photos on next page. Best times for this project Away with weedsMost lawns have a significant number of weeds, some of which are more tenacious than the grass itself. If you find yourself dealing with particularly tough customers (such as quack grass, horsetail or wild buckwheat), increase the depth of each layer of newspaper, manure and mulch by several centimetres, and leave the area fallow for one full growing season.Best times for making a newspaper gardenLate summer or early autumn: Decomposition will start before freeze-up and resume as soon as the soil warms up in early spring. Plan to install plants in late spring or early summer.Early spring (as soon as the frost leaves the ground): Under normal conditions, the bed should be ready to plant within 60 days.- Credit
- Stephen Westcott-Gratton
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Take cuttings now for spring flowers Take cuttings now for spring flowers
Take cuttings now for spring flowers ofWhat plants can be easily overwintered Have you fallen in love with one of the new coleus cultivars? Did you just inherit your grandmother's prize Pelargonium? Or are you simply tired of paying top dollar for your favourite double-flowered, variegated pink Impatiens? If so, consider overwintering your favourites indoors by taking tip cuttings this autumn to propagate tender perennials-and help your thumb stay green while the snow flies.THESE PLANTS MAKE THE CUT...You can easily propagate fibrous-rooted begonias; coleus; fuchsias; impatiens; zonal, ivy and scented geraniums (Pelargonium); and Plectranthus spp. and cultivars, including Swedish ivy....BUT THESE DO NOT“True” annuals-those that flower and set seed in a single season, such as cosmos and sunflowers-are not suitable for propagation by cuttings. Nor are tender perennials that require high light levels (such as petunias and marigolds). At the end of the season, just toss these onto the compost heap.STEP-BY STEP GUIDE1 Take cuttings from healthy plants, since they will only be as good as the parent plants, which should be robust and completely free from any signs of disease or insect infestation.2 The best time to take tip cuttings is in late summer or early autumn. Select a supple, young stem and remove any flower buds. Using a sharp, sterile knife, cut the branch eight to 12 centimetres below the growing tip, just beneath a leaf node. Each parent plant should yield six to eight tip cuttings.3 Once you've made all the cuttings you want, remove the leaves from the bottom half of each one. Make three or four vertical slits, about 1.5 centimetres long and one to two millimetres deep, at the base of each cutting (this scoring helps speed up the rooting process). Step-by-step guide 4 Gently dip the bases into a rooting hormone containing IBA (indolebutyric acid). A light dusting is sufficient-too much will cause the cuttings to rot.5 Before planting the cuttings, thoroughly scour the containers you intend to use. I favour terra-cotta pots because they allow oxygen to circulate around plant roots, but plastic ones hold water more efficiently. Fill the containers with a sterile, soilless mixture formulated for cuttings and starting seeds.6 Insert the cuttings into the mix to a depth of about five centimetres and spaced eight centimetres apart to ensure maximum light penetration and air circulation. Place pots in an area with bright light (but out of direct sunlight), and keep the soil evenly moist.7 After about five weeks, each cutting will have developed several strong roots; repot cuttings into their own small containers.8 In another one to two weeks, signs of new growth will be noticeable; at this point, move plants to a bright, sunny window. Once a month, fertilize cuttings with a dilute solution high in phosphorus; I like using African violet food (0-12-0) because it doesn't contain nitrogen, which can lead to weak, leggy plants. Keep room temperatures cool over winter-between 10 and 15°C is ideal-and allow plants to dry out between waterings.9 If cuttings become gangly, pinch them back to encourage bushy growth, and increase light levels using grow lights or fluorescent tubes.10 By late spring, you should have a crop of healthy, young plants identical to those available at your local nursery. After all danger of frost has passed, harden off plants by moving them to a protected, partly sunny area of the garden. Keep plants well watered for two to three weeks and feed at half-strength with a fertilizer formulated for flowering plants (such as 15-30-15). Transplant the rooted cuttings into your garden as you would any other annual.- Credit
- Stephen Westcott-Gratton
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Train shrubs for small spaces Train shrubs for small spaces
Train shrubs for small spaces ofTraining a shrub into a tree does require some patience As Gertrude Stein might have said, a shrub is a shrub is a shrub-unless you've decided to transform a shrub into a small tree. Most of us consider that a tree is a tree by virtue of its central woody trunk; similarly, we regard a multi-stemmed woody plant as a shrub. Yet, we've all seen stands of multi-stemmed white birches as well as large, single-stemmed hibiscus. So where does a shrub leave off and a tree begin?Virtually any shrub that doesn't sucker excessively from its base is a good choice for pruning into a tree (see “Ideal Candidates”); one that does sucker or flowers on new wood (roses, for example) is not suitable. A shrub trained into a tree is less aggressive than a dwarf tree (a term often used to just mean “slower growing”), and its dimensions are ideal for smaller spaces. As well, its augmented height is especially useful as a vertical accent in a perennial border of any size.Training a shrub into a tree does require some patience. While I prefer to buy small, one-year-old specimens, anything up to a two-gallon container will do. A more mature plant is better trained into two or three trunks to form a multi-stemmed tree; just treat each stem you select as though you were training a single-stemmed specimen.STEP-BY-STEP GUIDE1 At the nursery, select a healthy, vigorous plant, preferably with an obvious upright central stem, which will become the leader, or main trunk, of your tree. Then plant the shrub as you would any other.2 Next, remove all branches on the bottom third of the shrub. Leave the top two-thirds intact for the rest of the year: the extra foliage is essential for providing food and energy as the plant becomes established.3 Insert a stake as close to the central leader as possible and attach using soft string, fabric or a commercial tree tie.4 Repeat step No. 2 (limbing-up the shrub to one-third of its total height) each spring until the desired height is reached, usually between 75 and 150 centimetres. This process can take anywhere from three to five years if you begin with a one-year-old specimen.5 Once the desired height of the trunk has been reached, it's time to develop the tree's canopy. The following spring, select three or five of the largest branches at the top of the plant. They should be evenly spaced to ensure an open framework, enabling light and air to penetrate. Clip these stems back by seven to 12 centimetres to encourage lateral growth. Remove all other branches in the canopy and along the trunk, and discard the support stake.6 To maintain your tree-form shrub, prune off any branches that sprout along the trunk, and thin out the canopy as necessary. Ideal shrub candidates for training IDEAL CANDIDATES - A few of the many shrubs you can train into trees Name Zone Amur maple (Acer tataricum ssp. ginnala) 4 Blue beech (Carpinus caroliniana) 3 Russian olive (Elaeagnus angustifolia) 2 Burning bush (Euonymus alatus) 5 Sea buckthorn (Hippophae rhamnoides) 3 Hydrangea paniculata 4 Star magnolia (Magnolia stellata) 5 Ninebark (Physocarpus opulifolius) 3 Double flowering almond (Prunus triloba ‘Multiplex') 4 Lilac (Syringa vulgaris) 4 Viburnum sieboldii4- Credit
- Stephen Westcott-Gratton
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Make your wisteria bloom Make your wisteria bloom
Make your wisteria bloom ofWisteria pruning primer The subject of wisteria is fraught with frustration for many Canadian gardeners. There are plenty of arbours and pergolas festooned with healthy-looking wisterias that simply refuse to bloom. So what's the secret to getting the magnificent show of fragrant blossoms that are on view each spring at Royal Botanical Gardens in Burlington, Ontario? Gardener Bob May says there's not much to it: don't let your wisteria grow out of control and give it two good prunings a year-once in midsummer and the other in mid-September, or when vigorous growth has ceased. Every three years or so, your wisteria will need a radical renewal pruning to keep it in shape.Wisteria responds best to stress. Be sparing with fertilizer and wary of high-nitrogen formulas, which will result in too much vigorous growth and foliage. And don't overwater. The phenomenally healthy wisterias that strut their stuff on RBG's pergola pretty much look after themselves and only get watered during extreme drought. What's the most floriferous wisteria on the RBG pergola? It's ‘Lawrence' Japanese wisteria (Wisteria floribunda ‘Lawrence', Zone 5). It's easy when you know howSTEP 1(shown)After flowering is finished, prune entire plant back, thinning it out well and leaving just one or two buds or nodes per branch. Keep vigorous, strong shoots that have set buds or nodes at their bases. Get rid of any branches that hang down and spoil the shape of the plant. To force the plant to branch more horizontally, make your cuts on a down-facing bud (even if you cut below this bud you will get new branches).STEP 2By midsummer, wisterias have put on a great deal of new growth that can tangle into a big, shapeless blob, encroach on nearby plants or weigh down supports. Don't be timid with the pruners: prune entire plant back hard to the desired size and shape and cut thin, overcrowded stems out completely. By summer's end, new shoots will appear and replace most of what's been cut off. This is the time to select vigorous new shoots for training along wires, a trellis or even up a tree. Get those shrubs under control STEP 3(shown)In mid-September (or when vigorous growth has ceased), cut wisteria back again, though not as ruthlessly, to its desired shape for the following spring. This time, leave four or five nodes or buds per branch; these will form next year's flowers and branches. If you see something resembling a witch's broom at the ends of the branches (several short, dense shoots clustered together), don't remove it all-it's full of buds, so just shape carefully and thin out weaker stems and dead tips (about one-third in total). Cut back any split panicles (flower heads) and seed pods so they don't rob energy from flower production.STEP 4Wisterias usually bloom on the lower 30 centimetres or so of last year's stems. By pruning these back several times a season, a flowering, multi-branched stem-much like an apple spur-can be created. Every three years or so, when these stems have grown out too far from the main structural stem, give the plant a renewal pruning right after flowering, severely cutting back mature wood to within 7.5 centimetres of the main stem. This will open up the plant and allow in light to help stimulate new growth.Magic HandsAt Ontario's Royal Botanical Gardens, gardener Bob May is affectionately known as Edward Scissorhands. For more than a decade, Bob has devoted a great deal of time to pruning or espaliering climbers on the massive pergola in the rose garden located in RBG's Hendrie Park. When he took over this job, the pergola plants were in a bit of a state, but Bob has successfully coaxed and bullied recalcitrant cultivars into orderly, free-flowering submission.This self-taught pruning guru has been fascinated by plants since childhood and showed his vocation early by cutting back pussy willows and shaping specimens in his parents' garden. Over the years, experience has taught him how to prune sympathetically, working with each plant's natural tendencies. Therein lies his artistry (Bob has also taught classes at RBG in bonsai techniques and is happy to answer questions regarding his creations). As Winston Churchill famously said, “Give us the tools and we'll finish the job.” For Bob May, that tool is a Felco #8 pruner, which he likes for its narrower, more pointed blade that enables him to “get right in there.”- Credit
- Aldona Satterthwaite
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Special effects for your garden Special effects for your garden
Special effects for your garden ofPut your best-looking plants and pots forward Last summer, I impulsively agreed to let members of the American Association of Botanical Gardens and Arboreta tour my garden. They were having their annual meeting at Royal Botanical Gardens in Burlington, Ontario, and wanted an afternoon of diversion. I must have been out of my mind. It was August and my garden looked like the abandoned site of a drive-in movie theatre. I needed to stage an intervention to draw attention away from the dismal scene. Here's what I did.CLOSE FOR COMFORTPut your best-looking plants and pots where you can see them: close to the house and seating areas. Why plant tree peonies in the back forty, when your guests can enjoy them as they sip wine on your patio? It pays to groom these high-traffic areas first, too. This needn't be labour-intensive. I have a pretty planting of Canada ginger, sweet woodruff, hostas and lady's mantle (and ‘Jack Frost' Siberian bugloss, shown above) near my outdoor dining area. It looks good with minimal care from May to October.CHEATER PLANTSAt least once a week, I check out new arrivals at the garden centres. Just before the AABGA members arrived, I picked up delicious ‘Sutherland Gold' and ‘Black Beauty' elders (Sambucus racemosa ‘Sutherland Gold' and S. nigra ‘Black Beauty') and put them on a pedestal in a ho-hum area. Propped up on bricks, their dazzling colours and leaf shapes lead all eyes away from the past-their-best perennials. Keep only what's useful and beautiful EDITSometimes there's just too much stuff: little pots, knick-knacks, plant tags, whirligigs and hoses. Introduce a little spare Shaker style in the garden. Follow the edict of British designer William Morris to keep only what's useful and beautiful, then edit out what isn't. Simplicity is powerful and restful.VINES IN BEDpicLuckily, I had put some pots of mandevilla in my perennial beds earlier in the season. The vine snaked through some of the sturdier plants and blasted the scene awake with its hot pink, tropical-looking flowers. Thank goodness.CONTAINER PLANTSI stocked up on low-priced tropical houseplants and wove them through my containers. You can often get 10-centimetre pots of tropicals at garden centres for less than $3. They added a layered texture to the pots and were amazingly durable.BIG-BOX BARGAINSIf you're vigilant, you can pick up sweet bargains at big-box stores to hide problems in the garden. I look for indoor plants to go on sale, such as areca palms. Sometimes, a large specimen can be bought for as little as $9. I grouped three of these together to screen out an ugly corner. Tone down that plastic garden furniture SEARCH AND DESTROYAnd while you're at it, please keep the barbecue out of sight, unless it's one of those stainless steel jobs built into a stone fortress. Your regulation barbecue with the fading paint and rusting tank greatly diminishes the charm of the garden.PATH TO SUCCESSIf I feel I've been criminally neglectful in my garden, I tend the paths. If you have a well-cared-for path, with crisp edging, everything in the garden will look better. And if you're planning or renovating a garden, consider how beautiful pea gravel or limestone screenings are for paths. They're economical, easy to care for and so harmonious with plants.WINDOW BOXESVery little was in bloom, so I filled florist vials (you could also use test tubes or small vases) with water, stuck in some cut flowers and hid them in the window boxes. Shasta daisies, black-eyed Susans and cosmos magically appeared, and the window boxes looked lush and swank.SHABBY CHICI've learned from years of shooting locations for Gardener's Journal on HGTV that nothing sticks out more in a shot than glaring, white, plastic garden furniture. To tone things down, we always have on hand some solid-coloured fabric to drape over chairs and tables. Blue denim or natural burlap looks wonderful against green foliage. -
Pro photo tips Pro photo tips
Pro photo tips ofThe importance of light in your photos If you've ever rushed out to photograph your garden at its very peak of perfection only to be disappointed with the blah, washed-out colours of your prints, take heart. Whether you use a conventional or digital camera, here's how to dramati-cally increase your rate of success.Light• When photographing your garden, the light-or more accurately, the quality of light-is probably the most important factor. It sets the mood for your photographs and determines how vibrant the colours will be on your prints.• The most common mistake that many amateurs make is taking pictures when the sun is bright. On a sunny day, avoid taking photographs between 9 a.m. and 5 p.m., as colours that may look gorgeous to your eye will be washed out on your photographs. Conversely, shadowy areas will look too dark. The best time to capture your garden is early morning (just after sunrise and for about two hours afterwards). It's quiet, the plants have had a chance to recover from the heat of the previous day and the light is soft and warm. Try to choose an angle where the light is streaming in from the side or behind your subject, but avoid letting any direct light into your camera lens.• Cloudy days also work well, as the light is even and colours photograph vibrantly. Shadows are reduced, so you can successfully capture areas that would otherwise be half in shade and half in sunlight. It's the composition that will bring your photo forward • The last few hours before sundown can provide nice light (similar to morning), though on hot days plants may look a bit tired or wilted.Composition• Take the time to walk around your garden and choose the angles that will best tell its story. When you look through your lens, think of each image as a painting and move your camera around to find the best view. Once you have created a pleasing composition, steady the camera and gently press the shutter button.• Overall shots can be taken from your patio or perhaps an upstairs window.• Climb in behind plantings and shoot out into the garden.• Include your house in some shots but position yourself carefully to avoid your neighbour's white vinyl siding or other distractions.• Get on your knees and try some low angles.• Lawns tend to loom large (and are not that dramatic). Crop out some of the lawn by pointing your camera higher, moving in closer or including something in the foreground to break up its expanse [snown next page].• Gardens are interesting in every season-even after a snowfall. Film and prints quality for lasting memories • To add a sense of scale, add some family members or pets. And hey, now that you have them out there, why not take a few photos for next year's holiday greeting card?Film and prints• The most common film speeds (ISOs) are 100, 200 and 400. The most versatile speed is 400 because it is suitable for most lighting conditions. However, if you plan to enlarge your photos beyond 5 x 7 inches, I recommend using one of the lower speeds, as your prints will be sharper and the colours brighter. Keep in mind, though, that in low-light situations, using 100 speed may result in slightly blurry images if the camera is not rock-steady when you click the shutter.• Finally, after you have picked up your prints or are viewing your digital captures on your computer, don't be afraid to edit and toss out all the so-so images. Ten good photo-graphs make much more of an impact than dozens of mediocre ones.What are you waiting for? Get out there and start clicking away.- Credit
- Bert Klassen
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Confessions of TV gardeners, part 3 Confessions of TV gardeners, part 3
Confessions of TV gardeners, part 3 ofPart 3 - David Tarrant, Stephen Westcott-Gratton Larry Hodgson -- a frequent guest on Quebec's Salut bonjour Weekend and Fleurs et Jardins, TVABooboo I ordered a truckload of “the best quality” garden soil from a supposedly reputable merchant. It was so infested with horsetail (Equisetum spp.) that two years later I had to dig out the whole bed and destroy all the plants-the horsetail rhizomes had worked their way through them and none could be saved. Before I could replant the bed with new material, I had to run the entire truckload of soil through a fine garden sieve to extract the remaining horsetail rhizomes.Tip Never buy soil without requesting a sample-a plastic bag with a shovelful of soil. I dump mine in a corner of my driveway and water it. Only samples where nothing comes up over a two-week period get the go-ahead.David Tarrant -- host, Spring!, a 13-part series on HGTV; former host, The Canadian Gardener, CBCBooboo While apprenticing at Tylney Hall (England), I was sent, hoe in hand, to weed the beautifully designed formal beds. When I realized I had hoed up some of the annuals as well, ruining the intricate design, I stuck them back into the ground, hoping nobody would notice. The head gardener noticed, and sent me off to hand weed the veggie garden for a while.Tip West Coast summers are getting drier and drier. We really need to plant things that require less water, such as pines, artemisias, salvias and penstemons.Stephen Westcott-Gratton -- host, Flower Power, HGTVBooboo I had to excavate a lot of clay out of my beds, so I used it to create a berm. The two holly bushes I planted on its top looked like candlesticks on a fireplace mantel. In nature, tall material grows at the base of a berm-plants get smaller as you move upward.Tip Mimic what nature does; it tends to get it right every time.- Credit
- Carol-Ann Granatstein