Over the years, the term “espalier” has come to mean any tree or shrub that has been trained flat against a trellis, wall or other support. The most common form is the double horizontal cordon. It has a single, strong, vertical central stem (called a leader) with horizontal limbs that grow outward from it.
Year 1
Build or purchase a framework upon which to train the tree, making sure it's large and strong enough to accommodate the plant's mature size, such as a rectangular wooden frame constructed of 2x4s with a central vertical support also made of wood. Starting at 40 centimetres above ground level, space horizontal supports made of strong wire or wooden dowels at 40-centimetre intervals. The frame can be mounted on a fence or wall, or anchored to sunken fence posts.
In late autumn or early spring, plant a single-stemmed whip (a one-year-old tree that hasn't developed branches) 10 to 15 centimetres in front of the central support.
[step 1] Cut back the leader to the first set of horizontal supports (i.e., 40 centimetres above ground level), leaving three good buds at the top, with the two lower ones pointing in opposite directions.
In spring, once the plant has leafed out, tie the shoot growing from the top bud to a small stake affixed vertically to the central support.
[step 2] Train the two bottom shoots on either side of the leader to garden stakes secured with ties to the horizontal supports at a 45-degree angle from the central one (training first-year branches at a 90-degree angle retards growth).
In autumn, as the leaves fall and the tree goes dormant, remove the stakes and lower the two side branches to 90 degrees. Tie them directly onto the bottom tier of the horizontal supports. Then, prune back the leader to within seven or so centimetres of the top of the second tier, again making sure there are three good strong buds at the top, which will develop into the central leader and two new horizontal arms in Year 2.
At this time, lateral branches (the small, twiggy shoots that have emerged from both the leader and the arms of the tree) should also be pruned to the healthiest three buds (or three leaves if they're still present) closest to the next set of horizontal supports. These twigs will then develop into flowering or fruiting spurs.
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