I consider my clumps of Japanese anemones (pronounced ah-NEM-oh-nees) to be the crowning glory of my late-season borders. Their pink and white flowers dance in the breeze for about six weeks-from the end of August to early October- associating happily with spikes of great blue lobelia (Lobelia siphilitica) and various bugbane (Actaea syn. Cimicifuga) cultivars. The overall effect is a late-season symphony of pink, white and blue-colours that are generally lacking in our predominantly golden-hued autumn beds.
Aside from their superb flowers, perhaps the most appealing attribute of Japanese anemones is that they're as easy to grow as green beans. Most cultivars will tolerate everything from full sun to deep shade, they're not particularly fussy about the soil they're planted in, they're generally rabbit resistant and they have few insect or disease problems. Nevertheless, for optimum garden performance, here are a few simple guidelines.
Light
Japanese anemones are happiest in partly shaded conditions. I've found that an eastern exposure works well; it allows the plants to benefit from morning sun while protecting them from blazing afternoon heat. In full sun, their foliage may burn and flower colour will look washed out. Full shade produces fewer flowers, but with deep, rich colouring.
Soil
They accept a wide range of soil types-from sandy loam to heavy clay-so extraordinary measures aren't called for; however, as with any perennial, a healthy dose of organic matter added to the planting hole before installation will make for a long, floriferous life. As an added bonus, aside from the cultivar ‘Party Dress' (which doesn't do well in limy soils), Japanese anemones adapt easily to acidic, neutral or alkaline soils.
Care
Despite their predisposition for moist soil conditions, Japanese anemones perform well without much supplementary irrigation, and indeed, in warmer zones where plants may become precocious, withholding water is the best method for keeping clumps contained. Large, double-flowered varieties usually require some discreet staking, particularly after heavy rains.
Planting and propagation
For best results, install new plants in mid-spring or early autumn. Divide established clumps in the spring as soon as the foliage emerges.
Know thy anemone
A classic botanical misnomer, Japanese anemones aren't really Japanese at all-in fact, they were developed about 125 years ago by nurserymen in England, France and Germany, who used several Chinese species (Anemone vitifolia and A. hupehensis var. japonica) to create what we now know as A. x hybrida-an entirely man-made plant, despite its simple, unaffected appearance. Although these plants may not be found in nature-but are extensively found in nurseries and garden centres-they certainly deserve a spot in every garden. These cultivars are only reliably hardy to Zone 6, although they can be successfully overwintered to Zone 4 if well mulched with a 10- to 12-centimetre layer of shredded leaves in fall.
The only truly hardy Japanese anemone is A. tomentosa ‘Robustissima' (hailing from the mountains of Tibet and western China), which is reliable to Zone 4 or, again, when heavily mulched, to Zone 3.
Most of the Japanese anemones that we grow today are more than 100 years old-I like to think of them as living antiques-and the paucity of new introductions is likely because it's hard to improve upon perfection. Nevertheless, cultivars with larger flowers in deeper shades of purple are currently being developed for the cut flower market, although their garden worthiness has yet to be established.
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