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Facelift for the late-summer garden

Facelift for the late-summer garden of

Give your garden a facelift The growing season isn’t over yet, but as fall approaches, your garden may be looking woebegone, especially if the twin scourges of heat and drought have battered your plants. Chances are, many annuals and perennials look exhausted with few flowers, lots of spent blooms and leaves that are tattered and scorched. The odd specimen may appear diseased or even dead. What to do? Time for a garden facelift: give thirsty plants a drink and your beds a thorough weeding, cut back what doesn’t look good, deadhead (remove spent flowers) and fill gaps with new plants or pop a container into bare spots. Here’s the drill: Annuals True annuals flower, produce seeds and die, so deadheading prolongs bloom. This, along with regular watering and feeding with a balanced fertilizer (such as 15-15-15), keeps cosmos, geraniums, marigolds and zinnias flowering longer. Some annuals, including impatiens and some petunia varieties, don’t need deadheading and will bloom until frost, but if they look leggy with fewer flowers, cut them back to half their height and they’ll rebound. PerennialsShear back early perennials by half their height. Some, such as lady’s mantle (Alchemilla spp.), have fresh leaves under old ones. Cutting back spent flower stems also promotes lush new foliage in rock cress (Arabis and Aubrieta spp.), many-coloured spurge (Euphorbia polychroma), creeping phlox, catmint and cranesbill.For later perennials, American horticulturist Tracy DiSabato-Aust suggests deadheading “when the seedpods outnumber the flowers or when the [flower] spike is about 70 per cent finished with blooming.” This encourages repeat flowering with some plants, but the second flush won’t be as prolific. Repeat bloomers include campanula, delphinium, foxglove and echinacea. Sick or dead-looking plants Be sure your plants are truly dead before you throw them out. To cope with excess heat and drought, established perennials may jettison their foliage; the leaves may be dried out, but the roots are alive and ready for next season’s growth. The same applies to many plants eaten by pests, such as hostas. To test if your plant is alive, give it a gentle tug; if the roots hold fast, it should be fine. As for diseased specimens—for example, older varieties of phlox that develop powdery mildew on leaves—cut them back (don’t compost; put in the garbage). For the following year, consider replacing with disease- and pest-resistant varieties (see “Tough Customers”). Resource An indispensable guide to caring for perennials is The Well-Tended Perennial Garden: Planting & Pruning Techniques by Tracy DiSabato-Aust, Timber Press, 384 pages, hardcover, $43.50. Tough customersAlthough many hostas are prone to slug damage, pest- and disease-resistant cultivars have thicker, waxier leaves. Good bets include Hosta ‘Blue Wedgwood’, ‘Canadian Shield’, ‘Northern Halo’, ‘Krossa Regal’ and ‘Sum and Substance’.Mildew-resistant summer phlox (Phlox paniculata) cultivars include ‘David’, ‘Delta Snow’ and P. maculata ‘Natascha’.

Credit: Yvonne Cunnington

Bring your garden back from the brink with a few easy steps

Published:: 2008-08-15 00:00:00

Author(s):: Yvonne Cunnington

Updated:: 2008-08-15 00:00:00

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Visit the Tofino Botanical Gardens Visit the Tofino Botanical Gardens

Visit the Tofino Botanical Gardens of
Saved from development Tucked away at the edge of the rainforest that rims the Pacific coast shore on Vancouver Island near Tofino is a wonderfully diverse gardenscape. Established in 1997, the 12-acre Tofino Botanical Gardens is the brainchild of its director, George Patterson, a transplanted landscape designer and nurseryman from the Boston area. Although originally a private garden, TBG is now open to the public and operates as a non-profit foundation. TBG is bordered on the south by a forest reserve. The shoreline, which can be viewed from various vantage points around the garden’s property, looks onto thousands of acres of protected migratory shorebird habitat. Beyond that are the Browning Passage and Meares Island, which has been declared a Tribal Park by the Tla-o-qui-aht First Nation. Also surrounding TBG are 850,000 acres of the Clayoquot Biosphere Reserve. “I was familiar with the Tofino area before I moved here,” explains Patterson. “This is where my former wife was born, so we would come back on occasion. I just fell in love with it.” The property had been slated for development, which is why Patterson bought it. He owned the land for eight years before he started his botanical garden. Time spent volunteering at Wilson Botanical Gardens in Costa Rica prepared him in part for what lay ahead. Says Patterson: “The Wilson Gardens are also next to a rainforest, so there are some similarities.” The main botanical collection at TBG focuses on the native plants of Clayoquot Sound. “About 60 species are found on the site,” says Patterson. “We’re also developing small pocket gardens along the paths that will offer some insights into comparative botany,” he adds. “Temperate rainforest plants from Chile, New Zealand, Japan and elsewhere have been sited next to natives that have something in common with the imported specimens. They may be from different families but have the same leaf shape.” This is known as convergent evolution, where plants that live in similar habitats resemble each other even though they are not related. For example, native evergreen huckleberry (Vaccinium ovatum) looks an awful lot like the Chilean guava (Ugni molinae). A kilometre of pathways connects 24 different areas, each constructed on a theme. There is a Kitchen Garden, for instance, where the chef from the garden’s restaurant finds plenty of culinary inspiration. In addition to vegetables, herbs such as thyme, tarragon and borage grow in abundance, while espaliered grape vines climb on the adjacent fence. “That garden was designed by one of our volunteers, the pastry chef at C Restaurant in Vancouver,” says Patterson. A local herbalist put together the Medicinal Herb Garden, which brims over with lush plantings of sea buckthorn (Hippophae rhamnoides), pennyroyal (Mentha pulegium) and marshmallow (Althaea officinalis). Beyond basic botany “In fact, over the past six years, the majority of the work in the garden has been done by volunteers,” boasts Patterson. “They’ve been really amazing. One of our volunteers from Mexico even created the map of the garden that visitors use on the self-guided tour.” A small collection of donated species rhododendrons occupies part of the garden. One cultivar, ‘George Fraser’, is named after a local rhododendron grower, and is a cross of the West Coast native Rhododendron macrophyllum and the East Coast native R. maximum. Other species include R. rex and R. sinogrande, both of which sport 50-centimetre-long leaves. Patterson’s pride and joy, the giant Himalayan lilies (Cardiocrinum giganteum), towers in another part of TBG. The lilies send up thick, 2.5- to three-metre-tall spikes with up to 20 creamy white 15- to 30-centimetre-long trumpet flowers—and grow at a rate of about 30 centimetres per week. Their strong fragrance is reminiscent of a blend of cinnamon and frangipani. The plants can take up to seven years to bloom; TBG’s bloomed in just two. In the Tropical Garden, visitors will find rice paper plant (Tetrapanax papyrifer), Japanese banana (Musa basjoo) and taro (Colocasia esculenta). But plants aren’t the only treasures found at TBG. A gazebo, along with other structures built by local artisan Jan Janzen, provides visual contrast to the foliage and offers much-welcomed shelter on a rainy day. A number of large, wooden sculptures by artist Michael Dennis also grace the property. Over in the Children’s Garden, young ones will be delighted to find a fort tucked away in the woods. Just above the high-tide line sits an 11-metre, double-ended salmon trawler, the Evian, an exhibit created to help visitors understand and appreciate the West Coast salmon fishing industry. Future themed gardens will also educate visitors beyond basic botany. Four cultural-historical gardens and exhibits are currently being developed. When completed, they will teach about the peoples who have settled and left their mark in Clayoquot Sound: the First Nations, the European settlers from the turn of the century, the Japanese fishing community and the 1970s-era hippies. Tofino Botanical Gardens is within a 20-minute walk or cycle of most of the community’s accommodations. In typical West Coast fashion, canoe and kayak arrivals are encouraged (best at medium to high tide). If you go: Tofino Botanical Gardens is located at 1084 Pacific Rim Highway in Tofino, B.C. For opening times and admission fees, call 250/725-1220 or visit www.tbgf.org.

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Janet Collins

Visit the Tofino Botanical Gardens

Published:

2008-09-03 00:00:00

Author(s):

Janet Collins

Updated:

2008-09-03 00:00:00
Facelift for the late-summer garden Facelift for the late-summer garden

Facelift for the late-summer garden of
Give your garden a facelift The growing season isn’t over yet, but as fall approaches, your garden may be looking woebegone, especially if the twin scourges of heat and drought have battered your plants. Chances are, many annuals and perennials look exhausted with few flowers, lots of spent blooms and leaves that are tattered and scorched. The odd specimen may appear diseased or even dead. What to do? Time for a garden facelift: give thirsty plants a drink and your beds a thorough weeding, cut back what doesn’t look good, deadhead (remove spent flowers) and fill gaps with new plants or pop a container into bare spots. Here’s the drill: Annuals True annuals flower, produce seeds and die, so deadheading prolongs bloom. This, along with regular watering and feeding with a balanced fertilizer (such as 15-15-15), keeps cosmos, geraniums, marigolds and zinnias flowering longer. Some annuals, including impatiens and some petunia varieties, don’t need deadheading and will bloom until frost, but if they look leggy with fewer flowers, cut them back to half their height and they’ll rebound. PerennialsShear back early perennials by half their height. Some, such as lady’s mantle (Alchemilla spp.), have fresh leaves under old ones. Cutting back spent flower stems also promotes lush new foliage in rock cress (Arabis and Aubrieta spp.), many-coloured spurge (Euphorbia polychroma), creeping phlox, catmint and cranesbill.For later perennials, American horticulturist Tracy DiSabato-Aust suggests deadheading “when the seedpods outnumber the flowers or when the [flower] spike is about 70 per cent finished with blooming.” This encourages repeat flowering with some plants, but the second flush won’t be as prolific. Repeat bloomers include campanula, delphinium, foxglove and echinacea. Sick or dead-looking plants Be sure your plants are truly dead before you throw them out. To cope with excess heat and drought, established perennials may jettison their foliage; the leaves may be dried out, but the roots are alive and ready for next season’s growth. The same applies to many plants eaten by pests, such as hostas. To test if your plant is alive, give it a gentle tug; if the roots hold fast, it should be fine. As for diseased specimens—for example, older varieties of phlox that develop powdery mildew on leaves—cut them back (don’t compost; put in the garbage). For the following year, consider replacing with disease- and pest-resistant varieties (see “Tough Customers”). Resource An indispensable guide to caring for perennials is The Well-Tended Perennial Garden: Planting & Pruning Techniques by Tracy DiSabato-Aust, Timber Press, 384 pages, hardcover, $43.50. Tough customersAlthough many hostas are prone to slug damage, pest- and disease-resistant cultivars have thicker, waxier leaves. Good bets include Hosta ‘Blue Wedgwood’, ‘Canadian Shield’, ‘Northern Halo’, ‘Krossa Regal’ and ‘Sum and Substance’.Mildew-resistant summer phlox (Phlox paniculata) cultivars include ‘David’, ‘Delta Snow’ and P. maculata ‘Natascha’.

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Credit

Yvonne Cunnington

Facelift for the late-summer garden

Published:

2008-08-15 00:00:00

Author(s):

Yvonne Cunnington

Updated:

2008-08-15 00:00:00
Canada Blooms 2008 Canada Blooms 2008

Canada Blooms 2008 of
Water features This elegant water feature and sculpture create a stunning focal point in this garden. Whimsy Whimsical ducks wander through a flowerbed filled with bluebells and bellflowers. Entertaining This stone table creates a unique place to entertain friends and family in ‘Circle of life.’ Outdoor living Outdoor living continues to be a hot trend, and these cozy chairs offer an inviting place to sit and relax. Blending in This soothing hot tub is designed the blend in with the natural elements in the garden. Hardy plants Beautifully parched: This mosaic circle features opposing diamonds of massed hardy plants chosen for their year-round colour, texture and drought tolerance. Extreme weather gardening The Crevice Garden features alpine plants that are hardy and able to tolerate periods of hot, dry weather. Species include: Armeria, Dianthus, Phlox, Sedum and Lewisia. Recycle and re-use Designed by Shawn Gallaugher, the Recycling Power Garden combined recycled compact discs and mirrors with colourful blooms Living walls Living walls continue to attract attention, whether for a roof top garden or an impressive indoor feature. Hot pots Container gardening is hot! This variation includes a variety of drought resistant succulents, perfect for a hot summer day. Green gardening Try creating an eco-friendly garden by using solar panels and other ‘green’ elements in the garden. Sculptures Garden sculptures such as this metal pinecone are a great way to add interest to any garden

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Canada Blooms 2008

Published:

2008-07-25 00:00:00

Author(s):

Name of the author

Updated:

2008-07-25 00:00:00
The best ways to water The best ways to water

The best ways to water of
When to quench a plant's thirst Despite childhood memories of running through sprinklers on lush turf, the days of indiscriminate water use are over. Conservation is the gardener's watchword, and by following a few easy guidelines, you can maximize the value of the water you do use. The best time to quench your plants' thirst is early in the morning, when plants are turgid and best able to take in more water; in fact, the morning dew that moistens the top few millimetres of soil makes it easier for water to penetrate deeply. Irrigating at midday is wasteful, as much of the moisture is lost to evaporation, while watering in the evening isn't ideal because leaves stay wet all night long, which can lead to disease.Although traditional wisdom dictates that the average garden needs about 2.5 centimetres of water per week, variables such as soil type (for example, sandy soils dry out more quickly than clay), weather and the moisture requirements of individual plant species mean gardeners must tailor their watering to specific conditions. Specimens that look limp or wilted in the early morning or evening should be watered immediately-these are signs of stress and cellular collapse, a stage at which rehydration is difficult. Plants consistently deprived of moisture for too long will become more vulnerable to attack by disease and insect pests.As a general rule, it's best to water less frequently but deeply; a light sprinkling will evaporate quickly and therefore fail to reach plant roots. (Test moisture depth by digging out a divot-15 centimetres or more is ideal.) A thorough watering also encourages plants to send their roots down into the soil where moisture is stored, rather than relying on surface water, which can be irregular.The most efficient way to deliver moisture is by applying it at ground level. A porous soaker hose laid around the base of plants allows water to seep slowly down to the root zones without moisture loss due to evaporation or runoff. Once the hose is positioned, mulch can be added overtop to hide it and keep moisture from the evaporating rays of the sun. Drip irrigation systems are another option, but they are more costly to install and the tubes sometimes have a tendency to clog. For large gardens, it may be more practical to use overhead watering systems, with either in-ground or hose-end sprinklers. Quick facts Quick fact 1Most plants need more hydration at critical times in their life cycles, such as when they are young and growing quickly, after transplanting, while setting buds and when fruit or seeds are developing. Note that shallow-rooted plants need closer monitoring for signs of dehydration than deep-rooted specimens, which are better able to tap into groundwater.Quick fact 2It's a myth that water droplets act as lenses on plant tissue, causing scorching; if it were true, plants would be reduced to smouldering heaps when the sun comes out after a rain shower! Be a water miser Be a water miser1 Install a rain barrel to capture water fromeavestroughs.2 Control weeds, which compete with garden plants for moisture.3 Mulch to slow evaporation from the soil, cool the surface and discourage weeds.4 Repair any leaks in couplings, hoses and sprinklers.5 Grow drought-tolerant plants native to your region, and group those with similar watering requirements.6 Recycle water from dehumidifiers, air conditioners and household grey water.7 Position sprinkler heads to reach target plants and avoid paved areas.8 Add organic matter such as compost and shredded leaves to improve texture and the water-holding capacity of all soils.9 Stop watering when runoff occurs.10 Invest in rain sensors and moisture meters for watering systems.

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Credit

Stephen Westcott-Gratton

The best ways to water

Published:

2008-07-25 00:00:00

Author(s):

Stephen Westcott-Gratton

Updated:

2008-07-25 00:00:00
Coming up: Gardening events across the... Coming up: Gardening events across the...

Coming up: Gardening events across the... of
British Columbia and Prairies events BRITISH COLUMBIAPlan to attend the Vancouver Orchid Society Sale at VanDusen Botanical Garden on August 9. The Vancouver Dahlia Society Show takes place on August 30 & 31. Learn how to Extend the Season with Grasses and Other Late Bloomers at the Elysium Garden Nursery seminar in Kelowna on September 7. Plan to attend the UBC Indoor Plant Sale in Vancouver on September 11 & 12. Take part in the Riverview Lands Treefest in Coquitlam on September 21. The VanDusen Botanical Garden Compost & Bulb Sale takes place in Vancouver on September 27.Celebrate at the Salt Spring Island Apple Festival, September 28. Surrey’s Historic Stewart Farm is hosting an Agricultural Bus Tour of local farms, September 13 and Apple Day festivities on September 20.PRAIRIESThe Saskatchewan Perennial Society is holding a Work Bee on August 9 & 12.The Calgary Horticultural Society Plant Share takes place on September 6. The Sage Garden is hosting a lecture and plant swap in Winnipeg on September 17.Plan to attend the South Saskatchewan Lily Society Bulb Sale in Regina on September 27. Ontario, Quebec and Atlantic events ONTARIODon’t miss Earth Art at the Royal Botanical Gardens. The innovative works of 13 internationally renowned environmental artists are on exhibit throughout the grounds until October 13. The Toronto Region Iris Society hosts an Auction & Sale at the Toronto Botanical Garden on August 10.Plan to attend the Niagara Falls Horticultural Society Show at the Niagara Falls Public Library on August 12. Don’t miss the Auxiliary of the Royal Botanical Gardens Sale in Burlington on September 12 & 13. Head to The Ontario Hosta Society's two-day auction and seminar September 13 and 14. New members are welcome! For more information, please call 1-866-742-7155.The Guelph Arboretum Auxiliary Plant Sale takes place on September 13. Join the Friends of the Central Experimental Farm in Ottawa for a Tea on August 10 and a Prince Edward County bus tour on September 18.The Kissing Bridge Trail Studio Tour takes place on October 25 and 26. Canada’s Outdoor Farm Show takes place in Woodstock from September 9 to 11.QUEBEC The Reford Gardens International Garden Festival continues to October 5 in Grand-Mètis. In Quebec City, the Museum of Civilization Garden of Visionaries features a terraced urban farm, to October 13. The Roger-Van den Hende Botanical Garden Fleurs d’Ete Open Garden Day takes place in Quebec City on August 10.At the Montreal Botanical Garden, the Magic of Lanterns festival takes place from September 5 to October 31.The Bonsai and Penjing Society of Montreal is holding its annual bonsai show from September 19 to 21 at the Tree House of the Montreal Botanical Garden.ATLANTICThe Nova Scotia Wild Blueberry Harvest Festival takes place province-wide from August 15 to 31. Don’t miss the Memorial University of Newfoundland Botanical Garden Sale on September 6. Plan to attend the Dahlia Society of Nova Scotia annual Flower Show on September 6 at the Mic Mac Mall, Bay Court in Dartmouth. Celebrate Autumn in the Forest at the Macphail Woods Ecological Forestry Project on September 28.

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Coming up: Gardening events across the...

Published:

2008-01-03 00:00:00

Author(s):

Name of the author

Updated:

2008-01-03 00:00:00
16 essential fall garden tasks 16 essential fall garden tasks

16 essential fall garden tasks of
Prepare your garden for winter As autumn leaves drift by your window, it may be tempting to look outside and think idle thoughts about nature taking care of itself. But like the rest of us, Mother Nature needs a good kick in the pants once in a while. Here are some fall dos and don'ts, plus tips to help your garden get a jump-start on spring.[1] When available, pop ‘Icicle' pansies into spots where summer annuals have been cleared out. They will bloom until December, then lie down for the winter. Cover them with evergreen cuttings until earliest spring, when they'll be ready to sprout new flower buds.[2] Leaves are garden gold. Spread small leaves of trees, such as honeylocust, birch, beech, ginkgo and silver maple (or shredded large Norway maple leaves), under shrubs and over all exposed soil. They will degrade into mineral nutrients; worms will turn them into fertilizer.[3] Take a gamble and throw seeds of hardy annuals where you want them to bloom next year. Larkspur, poppies, cleome and cosmos will frequently take root from seeds sown in autumn and conditioned under winter snow.[4] Plant bulbous Asiatic and Oriental lilies in late fall to ensure flower bud set. When planting is delayed until spring they may not get enough chilling and come up blind, with no flowers.[5] Wait until the soil has frozen before mulching autumn-installed plants. After freeze-up, a thick mulch of leaves and evergreen cuttings will keep their root balls safe from the heaving action of frost.[6] Lift big, fibrous clumps of summer phlox, hostas and Siberian irises and divide with a sharp spade or knife; tease apart fleshy roots of daylilies. Late-blooming perennials such as Michaelmas daisies and obedient plant (Physostegia virginiana), purchased in bloom, can go directly into garden beds (see #5).[7] Plant garlic in October, in a sunny spot with lots of manure dug in. Set individual cloves eight centi-metres deep and 15 centimetres apart, and mulch with five to eight centimetres of leaves. Hard-neck Rocambole garlics such as ‘Music' are the hardiest strains, and, when planted in October, can be harvested in July, just as the first cherry tomatoes turn red.[8] Autumn is a good time for planting evergreen trees and shrubs. The evergreens' root systems pump water all winter, so be sure to water them well before the ground freezes. And don't hesitate to purchase deciduous flowering shrubs at discounted prices. Even after a summer in containers, they'll adapt and make strong root growth in cool autumn soil. Get a jump-start on spring Here are some more of fall dos and don'ts, plus tips to help your garden get a jump-start on spring.[9] Autumn is the only time to move clematis or honeysuckle vine to prevent shock to growth: both vines begin extending leaves and shoots while frost is still in the spring ground. If the vines are large, cut them back by half, and they'll leap forward next spring.[10] Use generous amounts of anti-transpirant sprays (available at garden centres) on needle evergreens and broadleaf evergreens, such as euonymus, Japanese pieris and rhododendrons. The waxy coating helps to preserve tissue moisture and prevent winter windburn and sunscald. And lavish it on your Christmas tree to help keep it fresh through the holidays.[11] Root vegetables such as carrots and parsnips are sweeter after hard frost and can be harvested all winter. Remove top foliage from the plants and cover them with a 15-centimetre-thick mulch of leaves or straw (available from garden centres) spread to similar thickness. Throw an old piece of carpeting on top and let it snow. Lift the coverings to dig out veggies as needed.[12] Tender hybrid teas, floribunda and grandiflora roses need hilling up about 25 centimetres above their crowns with fresh soil or triple mix. A simple trick that reaps armloads of rose blooms is to tie the flexible new canes of climbing roses in a horizontal arc along fences or trellises. This will trigger the breaking and blooming of many more buds next summer.[13] As for garden hygiene, pick up or rake diseased leaves from under roses (blackspot) and crabapples (scab) and dispose of them in the garbage, not the compost pile. Left on the soil all winter, they'll reinoculate the plants with disease spores the following spring.[14] Squirrels “read” the disturbed soil and marks you leave when planting their favourite tulips and crocuses. Outwit them by concentrating spring bulb plantings in large groups and disguising your marks by flooding the soil surface with water. Then cover them with five centimetres of leaves topped with some shrubby branches. [15] Remove the debris of summer annuals, then be honest with yourself: will you really go out in early spring to remove remaining perennials? clean up as much as possible now, leaving strategic clumps for attractive winter display and food for birds. Sedums, hostas, astilbes and ornamental grasses are beautiful in snow.[16] Unless you really are Snow White, try not to create a garden of little winter dwarfs all wrapped up in burlap coats. Tightly wrapped burlap does plants more harm than good by potentially holding ice against their tissues. To protect them from wind or household dryer vent emissions, set up stake-and-burlap barriers, fastened with diaper pins, to break air currents.

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Credit

Judith Adam

16 essential fall garden tasks

Published:

2006-10-27 00:00:00

Author(s):

Judith Adam

Updated:

2006-10-27 00:00:00
Great fall escapes - Eastern Canada Great fall escapes - Eastern Canada

Great fall escapes - Eastern Canada of
Spectacular Eastern Canada garden getaways Here is a guide to the lovely gardens of a small sampling of inns, bed and breakfasts and restaurants that dot this country from coast-to-coast. We hope they'll inspire you to take an afternoon drive in September's mellow light, or arrange for a longer stay. So hit the road, and please let us know of any others in your neck of the woods that should be included on our next list. You can write to us or send an e-mail to mailbox@canadiangardening.com.Inn at Bay Fortune(Souris RR 4 (Hwy. 310), Bay Fortune, PE C0A 2B0; 902/687-3745; www.innatbayfortune.com)Type of establishment: inn, restaurantThe garden: one-acre plot with herbs and fruit and approximately three acres with flowers and vegetables; a re-creation of an early-20th-century-style Bay Fortune circular gardenZone 4Growing conditions: good soil, well-sheltered location, no early frost; close to the seaKey plants: Swiss chard, pea shoots, spinach, arugula, lettuces, pattypan squash, broccoli rabe, lovage; 14 different mints, sage, sweet marjoram, bronze and green fennel, dillGardening secrets: a spring application of locally made fish fertilizer and a fall application of horse manure and compost; seeds are sown every three weeks to keep a fresh and young supply of vegetables and herbs for the kitchenBest time to visit: end of July through SeptemberMarshlands Inn(55 Bridge St., Sackville, NB E4L 3N8; 800/561-1266; www.marshlands.nb.ca)Type of establishment: inn, restaurantThe garden: partially wild rose garden, hanging baskets, herb and vegetable gardens defined by wooden frames with walkways separating plots. A stone path takes you through vine-covered arches bordered by shrubsZone 5bGrowing conditions: heavy clay; open to a marsh with strong winds from the bay. Rear gardens face south and receive full sunKey plants: lupines, lilacs, flowering crabapples, rhododendrons and rhubarb; hanging baskets are filledwith annuals; herb garden has chives, mint, parsley and rosemary; vegetables, such as beans, peas, peppers, zucchini, cucumbers, tomatoes, onions, pumpkins, as well as some 2,000 pansies for garnishGardening secrets: almost totally organic; fresh black topsoil and peat moss are applied to beds to lightenthe clayBest time to visit: June through end of September More gardens to visit in Eastern Canada By the Dock of the Bay(28 Haddock Alley, RR 1, Margaretville, NS B0S 1P0; 902/825-3726; www.cottagesnovascotia.com)Type of establishment: beach houses in two locations (Port George and Margaretville)The garden: English-style country gardens, rose garden, and kitchen garden for guests where herbs, edible flowers, organic heirloom vegetables and fruit are grown. Scattered throughout the Port George property are miniature buildings made from architectural salvageZone 6Growing conditions: loamy, granular (sand, pebbles and stones), well-drained soil. Close to the Bay of Fundy; no frost until October or early November; heavy morning dew or fog in summerKey plants: roses, lavender, thyme, red cabbages, violas, gooseberry bush border, grapevine-covered arbour, hollyhocks, poppiesGardening secrets: horse manure, fish emulsion and seaweed. Plants are also sprayed with seaweed extract for nourishment and protection; spring-fed pond provides irrigation. Pests such as potato bugs are ground up in a blender and sprayed onto plants as a deterrentBest time to visit: July to SeptemberBlomidon Inn(195 Main St., Wolfville, NS B4P 1C3; 800/565-2291; www.blomidon.ns.ca)Type of establishment: inn, restaurantThe garden: serpentine rhododendron garden; heath and heather provide late-winter/early-spring colour; underplanted with impatiens for summer and autumn. Small kitchen herb patch, cacti, rose hedge with gazebo, three ponds, ravine, Italian courtyardZone 5bGrowing conditions: heavy clay, deep sand; sun and shadeKey plants: vegetables, such as eggplant, tomatoes, peppers, beans, beets, snow peas, green and yellow zucchini, asparagus; herbs, such as chives, green and purple basil, dill, bay leaves, thyme, sage, summer savory, parsley; fruit, such as melons, strawberries, blueberries, peaches, rhubarb; sunflowers and dahliasGardening secrets: sunlight and water. Vegetable garden was drained and terraced; drip irrigation was installed and topsoil and compost added. Soil pH is checked (Maritime soil pH is just over 5).Best time to visit: May to late October

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Credit

Marni Andrews

Great fall escapes - Eastern Canada

Published:

2006-09-22 00:00:00

Author(s):

Marni Andrews

Updated:

2006-09-22 00:00:00
Great Fall Escapes - Western Canada Great Fall Escapes - Western Canada

Great Fall Escapes - Western Canada of
Visit these fantastic gardens on your next trip Here is a guide to the lovely gardens of a small sampling of inns, bed and breakfasts and restaurants that dot this country from coast-to-coast. We hope they'll inspire you to take an afternoon drive in September's mellow light, or arrange for a longer stay. So hit the road, and please let us know of any others in your neck of the woods that should be included on our next list. You can write to us or send an e-mail to mailbox@canadiangardening.com.Hastings House Country Estate(160 Upper Ganges Rd., Salt Spring Island, BC; V8K 2S2; 800/661-9255; http://www.hastingshouse.com/)Type of establishment: inn, restaurantThe garden: organic kitchen gardens, heritage fruit orchardsZone 8bGrowing conditions: warm and dry summers; wet winters, little snow; heavy clay soil and rockKey plants: herbs, edible flowers, mixed greens, daffodils, tulips, forget-me-nots, alliums, mums and kale; some beds edged with clipped boxwood. For lush display, about 80 five-gallon containers of annuals (five successive plantings) are placed in one bedGardening secrets: perennial beds are overplanted by about 30 per cent to suppress weeds. Soil is routinely analyzed in the heavily used kitchen garden. All beds are top-dressed annually with compost or manureBest time to visit: spring, when 4,000 bulbs are in bloom.Rouge Restaurant(1240 8th Ave. SE, Calgary, AB T2G 0M7; 403/531-2767; http://www.rougecalgary.com/)Type of establishment: restaurantThe garden: about one acre; four-metre-tall caragana hedge on one side. One-quarter of the land is used for food production; the rest has many flowering plantsZone 3Growing conditions: high-altitude prairie with near-drought conditions most years; late and early frost. Cool nights even in summer; daily temperature difference can be 30°CKey plants: apple, crabapple, pin cherry, conifer, maple, ornamental crabapple trees-some 100 years old-lilac bushes; gooseberries, raspberries and saskatoon berries are also grownGardening secrets: garden has had a century of care and some original plants survive; plants thrive on homemade compost, sunlight and waterBest time to visit: August More Western gardens you can visit Sooke Harbour House(1528 Whiffen Spit Rd., Sooke, BC V0S 1N0; 800/889-9668; http://www.sookeharbourhouse.com/)Type of establishment: hotel, restaurant, spaThe garden: herbs, edible flowers and vegetables are grown for the restaurantZone 8bGrowing conditions: cool, dry summers; wet winters (140 cm of rain per year). Breezy waterfront location with mostly sunny, southeastern exposure; heavy clay soilKey plants: dozens of salad ingredients, including more than 100 culinary herbs and 125 edible flowers, such as salvias, pot marigolds, nasturtiums, pinks, daylilies, roses, violas and tuberous begonias. An area for growing lemons and olives is in the worksGardening secrets: edible plants are grown organically; soil is amended with compost and seaweedBest time to visit: summer is the most colourful, but the garden is enjoyable year-roundThe Ranche Restaurant900–600 6th Ave. SW, Calgary, AB T2P 0S5; 403/225-3939; http://www.theranche.com/)Type of establishment: restaurantThe garden 2.5 acres with types of native plants and grasses from late 1800s; quiet pathways with pine benches, a period gazebo and historic gas lamppostsZone 3aGrowing conditions: very dry, long, cold winters; short, hot summers; warm chinook winds in winterKey plants: trembling aspen, white spruce, saskatoon and chokecherry bushes, native roses and shrubs, snowberries, junipers, wildflowers, bunch wheat, needle grassGardening secrets: regular irrigation; indigenous plant varieties are grown to discourage feasting by deer, rabbits and gophersBest time to visit: late June through early AugustIl Giardino Restaurant(1382 Hornby St., Vancouver, BC V6Z 1W5; 604/669-2422; http://www.umberto.com/)Type of establishment: restaurantThe garden: walled, Tuscan-style courtyardZone 8Growing conditions: large, enclosed courtyard with planters in full sun, hanging baskets under the roof and small, narrow beds; soil tends to be dryKey plants: ivy covers shady walls, Virginia creeper cloaks sunny walls. In summer, annuals such as begonias, coleus and impatiens are grown in terra-cotta pots, set off by a scattering of Italian statuaryGardening secrets: constant fertilizing for the ivy and diligent maintenance for the restBest time to visit: summer

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Credit

Marni Andrews

Great Fall Escapes - Western Canada

Published:

2006-09-15 00:00:00

Author(s):

Marni Andrews

Updated:

2006-09-15 00:00:00
Great fall escapes - Central Canada Great fall escapes - Central Canada

Great fall escapes - Central Canada of
Garden destinations in Central Canada Canadians are a nation of gardeners. This may stem from the fact that our country is cold for so much of the year, so it's not surprising that we need to nurture fertile, blooming places that add joyful, living punctuation to the rhythm of the seasons.This passion extends to the owners of some commercial establishments, too. What follows is a guide to the lovely gardens of a small sampling of inns, bed and breakfasts and restaurants that dot this country from coast-to-coast. We hope they'll inspire you to take an afternoon drive in September's mellow light, or arrange for a longer stay. So hit the road, and please let us know of any others in your neck of the woods that should be included on our next list. You can write to us or send an e-mail to mailbox@canadiangardening.com.Melfort Cottage B&B(155 Douglas Ave., Oakville, ON L6J 3R7; 905/849-9729; www.bbcanada.com/melfortcottage)Type of establishment: B&BThe garden: white-flowering plants on three levels: a formal area, a rock garden with dwarf plants and a lower level with a circular path around a woodland; half a kilometre from Lake OntarioZone: 5Growing conditions: sandy soilKey plants: yews, boxwood, roses, weeping pear, snowdrop and a yellowwood tree (Cladrastis lutea) that screens the garden from neighboursGardening secrets: soil is heavily supplemented with manure, compost and mulchBest time to visit: spring to early summer More places to visit in Ontario and Quebec Langdon Hall Country House Hotel & Spa(RR 33, Cambridge, ON N3H 4R8; 800/268-1898; www.langdonhall.ca)Type of establishment: inn, restaurant, spaThe garden: originally designed by American landscape architect Frederick Law Olmsted (who also designed New York's Central Park); perennial and shrub borders redesigned by Leslie Laking, former director of Royal Botanical Gardens; grounds include the Cloister Garden, as well as rock, kitchen and cutting gardensZone: 6bGrowing conditions: dry, sandy soil; very hot, dry summers; situated on a ridge; kitchen garden in full sunKey plants: most vegetables and about 40 herbs are grown for the kitchen; trees (Camperdown elm, maidenhair tree, catalpa) that are original to the house (1898); perennials with prolonged or repeat bloomGardening secrets: homemade compost is piled on the kitchen garden every fall; mulchBest time to visit: spectacular spring bulb display, perennial borders in summer, harvest season for the kitchen gardenRipplecove Inn & Spa(700 Ripplecove Rd., Ayer's Cliff, QC J0B 1C0; 800/668-4296; www.ripplecove.com)Type of establishment: inn, spaThe garden: several gardens with varied plantings in both full sun and shade; taller plants on lee side of stone walls and fences; dozens of flower boxes. Gardens are spectacular contrasted with fall foliageZone: 4Growing conditions: lakeside setting on a 12-acre peninsula protects garden from autumn frost and ensures a growing season until mid-OctoberKey plants: peonies, roses, tulips, daffodils, spring flowers (under trees), hostas, wild cranberries, flag irises, lilacs (late- and early-blooming varieties), clematis, dahlias, lady's mantle, daylilies; shrubs such as Van Houtte spirea, weigela and viburnumGardening secrets: regular weeding, a covering of leaves in fall, no chemical fertilizers. Solid grey clay was dug out to some 1.5 metres deep; topped up with 60 centimetres of horse manure and straw, and one metre of black loam; thin layer of composted duck manure is added every springBest time to visit: spring for bulbs and August to mid-October for fall foliageHummingbird Hill B&B/Spa(254 Edmond Rd., Astorville, ON P0H 1B0; 705/752-4547; www.hummingbirdhill.ca)Type of establishment: B&B, spaThe garden: crushed-stone pathways bordered by hostas lead to the spa, back gardens and pond; vine-covered screened porchZone: 4Growing conditions: hilly, surrounded by trees; southern exposure provides warm spots where red hot poker plants and rhododendrons flourish; sun as well as shade/woodlandKey plants: delphiniums, foxgloves, peonies, oriental and peony poppies, phlox, shasta daisies, artemisias, clematis, day- and oriental lilies, evening primrose, lungwort, herbs, woolly lambs' ears, black-eyed Susans, purple coneflowers, blanket flowers, yellow loosestrife; beds of ornamental grasses and shade plants, such as hostas, ferns and sweet woodruff; herbs, including oregano, tarragon, chives and mintGardening secrets: plenty of organic matter and regular watering; beds are kept weeded and mulched; plants are cut back hard after they finish flowering to promote more bloomBest time to visit: July for delphiniums and foxgloves and August for daylilies

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Credit

Marni Andrews

Great fall escapes - Central Canada

Published:

2006-09-08 00:00:00

Author(s):

Marni Andrews

Updated:

2006-09-08 00:00:00
Visit Patrick Lima's Tobermory garden Visit Patrick Lima's Tobermory garden

Visit Patrick Lima's Tobermory garden of
Give the country life a try for a few weeks At first glance the site did not appear very promising. Rake and shovel in hand, we had travelled on the bus five hours north from Toronto to investigate a piece of land – a place to garden – that we had heard about from a friend.Hitching, then walking the last few miles in, we turned the final corner to find a flat field hip-high in seedy hay grass, some scrubby chokecherries crusted with black knot and a few leaning fence posts looped with rusty wire. Only a stand of tall lilacs and a grove of half wild apple trees suggested that there had once been a garden here.From a gardener's point of view, it's what lies under the surface that matters. Digging through the tangled thatch of grass roots we came up with handfuls of gritty sod so dry it flowed through our fingers like sand in an hourglass. Not the crumbly chocolate cake loam we were hoping for, but then again it was July of a dry season after all – and better sand than unyielding clay. Besides, didn't our old gardening books say that any soil, whatever its present state, could be brought around to good texture and fertility? The land needed humus, compost, organic matter – and lots of it.Still, as eager as we were for more space in which to garden, we were hesitant about making the move from city to country; the change would be sudden and complete. Heading back on the bus, we happened to sit beside a woman who said just what we needed to hear to tip the balance. "Why not give it a try for a year? You're not burning any bridges. If you don't like country life you can always go back." Good advice, and timely. A few weeks later a relative hauled us back with a few belongings, the most important being a second-hand rototiller. His encouraging last words? "You'll never make it here."That was in 1975 and our gardening experience to date had been tending two city vegetable gardens one season each but this was enough to convince us that we were gardeners at heart. Our original intention was simply to grow a big organic food garden, a source of unsprayed vegetables and fruit that reflected our interest in eating for health. For several years we did grow only edibles, all the while tilling and raking out heaps of wiry twitch grass roots that ran all through the field. As much as we grumbled about this tenacious plant, we came to appreciate that the dense weave of twitch roots had helped to preserve the light ground from wind erosion. Every creature, it seems, has its place and purpose. The principles of organic gardening One of the first principles of organic gardening is: feed the soil, not the plants. Taking that advice to heart, we set about socking the cow manure, compost, rotted leaves, swamp muck and spoiled hay to this sandy ground. Not too much all at once – the aim was to feed the soil, not stuff it so full of organic matter that the soil organisms could not assimilate it all – a kind of earthy indigestion. But every season, spring and fall, generous and consistent applications of organic matter have turned the pale, dry ground visibly darker and loamier, certainly more fertile and moisture retentive. Summer mulches left to rot back into the ground add to its organic stores. Of all the variables in a garden, the soil is the most amenable to change – for better or worse.With space and (eventually) time to spare, we began to explore and discover new horticultural horizons: a few hardy fruit trees were planted; raspberries, currants, gooseberries, asparagus all found a place. Before long we were discovering the pleasures of fresh herbs for seasoning: tarragon for salad dressings and lovage to toss with stir-fried vegetables; savory and homegrown garlic to mince into steamed green beans; handfuls of fresh dill, chives and parsley for coleslaw and potato salad; and basil and lemon thyme in anything. Not to forget fresh green peppermint, lemon balm, sweet cicely and bergamot for the teapot."If you have two coins," says a Chinese proverb, "buy bread with one and daffodils with the other, for bread feeds the body, but daffodils feed the soul." Inevitably our garden path turned flowery. Given the rigors of central Ontario winters – occasional spells of, 20F (-30C) temperatures and a crushing depth of snow – many familiar shrubs and vines either struggle along or fail outright. Even forsythia, so ubiquitous farther south, blooms rather oddly here – yellow only below a distinct horizontal line that marks the winter's snow level. No wonder, then, that we turned for colour and blossoms to herbaceous perennials, hardy bulbs and alpines – plants adapted by nature to live through a full-blown northern winter. Here we found such a wide field of discovery, so much beauty and creative challenge, that we have been cultivating perennials with a passion ever since.Our flower gardens were not planned as a whole from the start. Rather, they evolved gradually along with our interest in perennials and an expanding plant collection. Beds that once grew potatoes or strawberries gave way to peonies, irises and lilies – a reasonable progression since the soil had already benefited from several seasons of digging and delving to clear out perennial weeds and turn in organic fertilizers for the tubers and berries. A curving border dug along the east side of the lilacs provided the garden's only shady comer for primroses, lungworts, dogtooth violets, bloodroots and others. Favourite flowers and herbs for the garden More practical but just as lovely is a hedge of rugosa roses, many of them Canadian bred. The hedge not only buffered the vegetable garden from chilly winds but seemed like such a perfect border backdrop that we were soon setting out stripling Siberian irises, painted daisies, balloon flowers, more lilies and an edging of 40 or more Allwood's pinks broken at intervals by clumps of dwarf catmint. A special treat for sight and smell, the pinks (Dianthus spp.) were all raised from two packets of seed – a real floral bargain – and no two were alike.Pinks thrive in sweet (limed) sandy soil in full sun – and that is just what we have to work with. From the start we resolved to fill the garden with plants suited to our site, soil and climate. For example, summers are often dry here, and we do all of our watering by hand. Ever on the lookout for drought-proof perennials, we give lots of border room to silver-leaved plants and herbs:• Artemisias, especially the elegant 'Lambrook' silver variety of A. absynthium;• Yarrows or Achilleas of all kinds including 'Moonshine' (our favourite) and the new colours of A. millefolium;• Mulleins or Verbascum, seldom seen but striking silver giants (unfortunately biennial) that light up with yellow flowers in summer. We have both a Greek and Turkish mullein, and now a spontaneous cross between the two that we're calling Verbascum 'Larkwhistle';• Wooly lamb's ears (Stachys byzantium), two prominent patches in place for almost a decade at the front of a long border;• Thymes in variety, including fragrant lemon thyme and grey wooly thyme that tumble over warm limestone rocks that edge several beds.For hungrier and thirstier plants - roses, peonies, delphiniums, aconites, clematis, phlox, helenium among them -- we often prepare a special zone of fertility. This entails digging a hole deep and wide, removing subsoil altogether and backfilling with topsoil thoroughly mixed with crumbly old cow manure, peat moss, compost, bone meal and the like. Then, as a neighbour remarked after watching us go to these lengths only to tuck in a skinny slip of a peony root, "It's not your fault if it doesn't grow." But of course things do grow because they can't help growing if we do a little homework, find out what conditions the plants need and then do what we can to make them feel at home in the garden.From the moment the snow curtain is lifted in spring until a fall freeze-up puts an end to the season, the flowerbeds and borders are a constant source of pleasure and interest. The perennials become friends that we welcome back each year, observing and encouraging their growth and changes. From late May until November and beyond, the vegetable garden continues to yield a daily harvest of superb food. What more could we ask for? Willingly we give our energy, care and love to a garden that has become our home; the garden responds in kind with generous gifts of colour, fragrance and natural beauty nourishment for body and soul.

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Credit

Patrick Lima

Visit Patrick Lima's Tobermory garden

Published:

2006-03-30 00:00:00

Author(s):

Patrick Lima

Updated:

2006-03-30 00:00:00
Visit Victoria's Hatley park Visit Victoria's Hatley park

Visit Victoria's Hatley park of
Everything a baron could want He was a wealthy coal baron, a former B.C. premier and lieutenant-governor, a larger-than-life character who was known to tell workmen "Money doesn't matter; just build what I want."What James Dunsmuir wanted, and what he got, was Hatley Park-a 260-hectare Edwardian estate about 15 kilometres west of Victoria. When it was finished in 1908, the luxurious, $4-million Scottish castle was considered the finest residence in Canada. But just as much praise was heaped on the grounds, which featured everything a coal baron's family could want: formal and informal gardens, lakes, pastures for livestock, a dairy and a smokehouse, greenhouses supplying fresh vegetables and a glass conservatory overflowing with exotics. In its heyday, 100 men maintained the gardens and grounds, including a crew whose only job was to rake the 10 kilometres of gravel roads.Today, many of those roads have been paved, and the livestock, smokehouse and glass conservatory are gone, but the home and the gardens retain most of their former glory.A visit is like being plunked into the middle of one of the finest English estates-with a Canadian twist. Surrounded on three sides by forest with the ocean in front, Hatley Park boasts six hectares of cultivated gardens and 180 hectares of forest and trails.Credit for maintaining the grounds and castle must go to the Canadian military, which purchased the estate from the family in 1940 and established Royal Roads Military College. When the college closed in 1995, the government stepped in to create Royal Roads University. Not long after, Hatley Park, or Royal Roads as it's often called, was designated a National Historic Site.With only a small sign marking the entrance, it's possible to drive by the stone wall on Sooke Road without realizing the scope of what lies beyond. But more than 50,000 people find their way here every year to see a wide variety of plants, garden styles and many rare heritage trees. The formal Italian garden section Some of those trees are close to the castle, which is approached by way of grand, long steps overlooked by a statue of Neptune, the ocean monarch. The evergreens flanking the staircase are Cedrus deodora, a species of tree originally from the Himalayas and often found in 19th-century gardens. On either side of the steps are pruned black locust trees (Robinia pseudoacacia)."Most of the cultivated trees in Canadian gardens are too young to have reached this size," says head gardener David Rutherford, one of five gardeners who maintain the grounds. "And when you wander through the old-growth cedars and firs in the forest, it's awe-inspiring to think they were growing there when Elizabeth I was on the throne."The formal Italian garden is sited below the castle terrace. It contains original urns, stone benches and statues depicting the four seasons, as well as a central pavilion and a vine-covered gazebo. A spectacular 90-year-old Chinese wisteria (Wisteria sinensis) partly covers a stone pavilion at the far entrance, a popular spot for wedding photographs. Along with clipped evergreens, there are climbing roses, clematis, phlox, delphiniums, a boxwood hedge and a Mexican flannel bush (Fremontodendron mexi-canum), which produces waxy, yellow, eight-centimetre flowers for six months of the year. "They aren't traditional Italian plants," explains Rutherford, "because that's not what the Dunsmuirs planted here."The view from the Italian garden is stunning: the original croquet lawn, now surrounded by a classic English flower border, is backed by Esquimalt Lagoon, which has been a bird sanctuary since 1920, with open ocean beyond.A short walk past spectacular, large copper beeches (Fagus sylvatica 'Cuprea') and a huge horse chestnut is the almost one-hectare Japanese garden, which was built in several stages by a gardener from Japan. It features many classic Asian elements, including a large pavilion, twisting paths (to discourage evil spirits), several lakes, lanterns, stone groupings and a waterwheel. An island in one of the lakes was designed to resemble a tortoise and is inhabited by crane statues; both tortoises and cranes are symbols of longevity. Year-round Japanese garden section; visitors' notes Like all well-designed Japanese gardens, this one provides year-round interest. In winter, peeling bark from the paperbark maple (Acer griseum) can be seen etched against the sky. Also stunning is the rich, coppery red bark of the birch-bark tree (Prunus serrula) and the green and white stripes of the striped maple (Acer pensylvanicum). In spring, the magnolia trees bloom, and a bank of 'Pink Pearl' rhododendrons erupts into a mass of pinkish white. But no matter the time of year, make sure you see the rare dawn redwood (Metasequoia glyptostroboides), located near the rose garden. This deciduous conifer loses its needles in winter, revealing graceful branches and red bark, and opens with delicate green foliage in spring.Late June is the best time to see the geometric rose garden, which is partly enclosed by stucco walls and contains an original sundial and bench. Many of the almost 200 roses flower then, including Austin English roses, hybrid teas, old-fashioned shrub roses and ramblers. "We have the Dunsmuirs' original rose list, but the only rose that survived is 'American Pillar', a rambler with carmine-pink flowers, gold stamens and a white eye," says Rutherford.At Hatley Park, it's difficult to tell what's man-made and what isn't. A case in point is the English landscape garden in the lower lakes area, in the tradition of "Capability" Brown, an 18th-century English designer. Ornamental trees flourish here, including London plane trees (Platanus x hispanica syn. P. x acerifolia), English oaks (Quercus robur forma fastigiata) and an outstanding katsura tree (Cercidiphyllum japonicum) from Japan. Enjoying both trees and water is a variety of wildlife: ducks and white swans, blue herons and eagles, mink, otters and, according to some reports, even the resident ghost, which is said to hover over the water periodically, searching for serenity.The forest glen, just east of the castle, is more wild than cultivated. And it's the only area of the garden that fell into decline until it was reclaimed in the 1980s. "We found the rock steps and stone walls and dug it out," remembers Rutherford, "and the only plants left were clumps of bamboo, hellebores and a few rhododendrons."Using the forest as a backdrop, the area around the bridges and waterfalls was originally planted up with rhododendrons, bamboos, primulas and other plants native to Nepal and Northern China. Rutherford and his crew added more rhodos and hellebores, as well as hardy geraniums, bellflowers, cyclamen and blue-eyed Mary (Omphalodes verna). They also introduced several trees, including a maidenhair tree (Gingko biloba) and a Korean fir (Abies koreana).Visitors' notesLocation: Royal Roads University, 2005 Sooke Rd., Victoria, V9B 5Y2Getting there: a 25-minute drive from downtown Victoria;Victoria Regional Transit System: 250/382-6161; www.bctransit.com/regions/vicHours: open year-round;daylight hours for gardenFee: free entrance to garden, pay parkingGarden tours: self-guidedtours for groups can be bookedCastle tours: dailyFor more information about tours call 250/391-2600,ext. 4456; www.royalroads.caChannels/about rru/campus information.Events: Victoria Flower and Garden Show, July 11, 12 and 13; the grounds are often used by movie production companies and are available for wedding ceremonies, receptions and photography; grounds fairly accessible to wheelchairs.

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Credit

Laura Langston

Visit Victoria's Hatley park

Published:

2006-01-27 00:00:00

Author(s):

Laura Langston

Updated:

2006-01-27 00:00:00
Visit Nikka Yuko gardens Visit Nikka Yuko gardens

Visit Nikka Yuko gardens of
The spirit of a true Japanese garden Imagine a piece of traditional Japan set in the harsh climate of Lethbridge, Alberta, and you'll have a good idea of what this garden is all about. Although there are many Japanese gardens in Canada, few are as pure in style or as meticulously maintained as the Nikka Yuko Japanese Garden.Nikka Yuko's authenticity is intimately linked with its history. During the Second World War, hundreds of Japanese-Canadians were forcibly uprooted from their homes in British Columbia and relocated east of the Rockies, many in the Lethbridge area. After the war, some returned to B.C., but most families stayed on. It was these families, and other interested Lethbridge residents, that proposed establishing a traditional meditative Japanese garden as part of Canada's 1967 centennial. Nikka Yuko was designed as a symbol of the friendship between the Japanese and Canadian people: “Ni” stands for the Japanese word for Japan (Nihon), “Ka” for Canada, and Yuko for friendship. As planning for the four-acre garden began, renowned Japanese landscape designer Tadashi Kubo, of the University of Osaka Prefecture, was invited by the city to help with its design. Kubo's first task was to choose the garden's location. He selected Henderson Lake Park, a site of great natural beauty with a view of the lake and without urban visual distractions such as tall buildings.To ensure that Nikka Yuko captured the spirit of a true Japanese garden, structures such as bridges, gates, pagodas and shelters were built in Japan-and later assembled in Canada-by traditional artisans. Kubo's assistant, Masami Sugimoto, also helped oversee the project, handling such details as the selection and location of plantings.Henderson Lake doesn't form part of Nikka Yuko, but there's a large pond that dominates the centre of the garden. The pond contains an island shaped like a turtle; in Japanese culture the turtle represents long life and luck. Attention to detail is so meticulous that even the stones on the pond's small beach were individually selected and arranged by hand. Designed with restraint and simplicity The major problem that Kubo, Sugimoto and the Canadian volunteers faced was finding plants suited to Lethbridge's Zone 3b conditions. Common Japanese garden plants (such as Japanese maple and Japanese black pine) were not hardy enough, so substitutes had to be found. Among the stand-ins chosen are amur maple (Acer tataricum ssp. ginnala), and mugo and Scotch pines; Prairie-hardy crabapples replace the traditional Japanese cherry trees. These substitutes are carefully shaped to resemble their Asian counterparts. The effect is so successful that even gardeners from Japan have been fooled.But don't look for abundants flowers here: their brilliance and stimulation are not considered appropriate in a garden where one is supposed to meditate and contemplate nature. Instead, everything is designed with restraint and simplicity; Nikka Yuko is a place of subtle contrasts in form and foliage colour where trees and shrubs such as white spruce, lilacs, dogwoods, bearberries and junipers dominate.At a pavilion (built from rare Japanese cypress) located at the garden's entrance, visitors can learn more about Nikka Yuko's history and, on Sundays and during special events, attend a traditional tea ceremony (as long as they're prepared to remove their shoes in the Japanese custom). The garden also offers courses on flower arranging, pruning and other Japanese gardening techniques.Beyond the pavilion lies a curving path which leads through an azumaya (meaning “resting place”), a shelter within earshot of a bubbling waterfall. Over another bridge is the Prairie Garden, which provides the best view of Henderson Lake.Visitors are always well received at the Garden. There's a Ceremonial Friendship Bell, which guests are invited to “gong” (its sound can be heard several kilometres away). You may even catch a glimpse of royalty: since Nikka Yuko's official opening in 1967-with Prince and Princess Takamatsu in attendance-members of Japan's royal family have visited occasionally. Sugimoto also visits the site every two years to ensure it remains true to its Japanese heritage.The garden is open from spring through fall. There is a small admission charge and donations are always welcome.Nikka Yuko Japanese Garden, Box 751, Lethbridge, AB T1J 3Z6; 403/328-3511.

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Credit

Larry Hodgson

Visit Nikka Yuko gardens

Published:

2006-01-20 00:00:00

Author(s):

Larry Hodgson

Updated:

2006-01-20 00:00:00